Blue Ensign

Cheers Guys, thanks for your comments and likes, it’s always good to reach this point in a build, before the next testy little exercise begins, which is about now. Post Twenty-seven That tricky business of the stern Getting the stern right is one of the key areas of a build, if this isn’t right nothing will be right. I am aware of the issue Glenn experienced in his build, and of the modification indicated by James for the positioning of the lower counter. My approach in relation to any build is to look at the stern area in its totality, with all parts temporarily fitted before committing to glue. In the case of Sphinx, trial fitting of the lower counter in conjunction with the upper counter inner (part 156) and stern facia inner (part 88) is necessary. I am working primarily from Plan sheet 15 which shows the Bulwark pattern, even with the addition of the 1mm capping rail, sitting a fraction below the rise of the Facia. It seems to me that one should start with the Facia position. 0808 Here you can see 1mm thick strips atop the Bulwark pattern to represent the capping rails. 0809 In this macro shot note where the lower line on the facia pattern sits level with the top of the stern frames. Note also how the Facia top sit just above the bulwark cap level. 0816 I am now able to invert the model and pin the Upper counter which then lets me see how the lower counter relates. It took several tweaks to get the two counters in the right position. 0829 0814 Back up the right way I check the levels across the Bulwark. 0822 0824 Looking at the set-up from all angles to satisfy my eye. 0825 I will leave the Facia and Upper counter pinned in position while I glue the lower counter in place. This approach gives me some assurance that when I come to finally fit the facia some steps down the line, any adjustments will be minor and I won’t have any nasty surprises. B.E. 21/10/21

Post Twenty-six Sand fill and sand again. There are the usual (for me) strake ridges to attend to, I didn’t pay much attention to variations in plank thickness during planking, and there was a fair variation across the plank supply. Several of the planks were below 0.7mm and effectively unusable, being too soft to span the bulkheads without flexing. Only minimum filling was required in small areas. For this I use Deluxe Wonderfill a lightweight filler that dries quickly and sands well. It works well for small indentations and hollows in planking runs. 0742(2) I take photos under harsh lighting to reveal irregularities, along with the blind feel test. At the point I think ‘That’ll do’ I take more photos and faff around some more. 0753 With the model on my desk I can compare with macro photos where areas need a little more attention. After a day of sanding, filling, and feeling, I reach the point of enough is enough and move onto the Pearwood keel, stem, and sternpost. The fit of the stern post to keel was excellent, but the stem to keel at the bow needed some fettlin’ to get a nice tight fit between keel and stem. This is important if the option to not paint the lower hull is to be retained. I didn’t need to mess with the stem piece, just clean the false keel up. Keeping the stem piece hard down against the keel piece proved quite tricky using pva. 0760(2) This is the only clamp that had sufficient bite to secure it in position until the glue grabbed. Might have proved easier to use cyano for this joint. 0770 0772 At the stern area I have reduced the planks to a feather edge where they meet the stern post, not difficult with a soft wood like Lime. 0779 0777 The white filler generally indicates where the planking strip was undersize in thickness. 0780(2) 0800 0789(2) 0786 0791(2) 0790(2) After eight weeks work, I have the basic hull completed, and something that is recognisable as a bijou Frigate. Moving on… B.E. 20/10/21

Thank you, David, I completed the coppering in August 2011, and the model was cased in 2017 on completion. It is a slow process, I tried to get a photo through the glass but couldn't get a decent representation, with reflections etc. B.E.

Nice work dunnock, she's looking very impressive. I'm a big fan of the OM boxwood I first used it on my Pegasus build and it sits very well on Diana. I also left the copper to age naturally and now after around 8 years is developing a subtle brown patina. Regards, B.E.

The channels are not there to support the shrouds, simply to spread the angle for better support of the masts. The deadeyes are secured by the preventer plates and chains and sit in slots along the outer edge of the channels, usually covered by a board. The channels are not subject to the upward stresses one might think. B.E.

Great looking build, well done. B.E.

these photos often reveal something I never saw even at workshop close I then feel a need to go back and correct, if I can find them without the photo 😊 Ain't it the truth, I do it all the time, something of the masochist in me. 😀 B.E.

Looks like you're off to a good start, Bug, cutting a rabbet along the keel and up the stem pays dividends later .👍 B.E.

Nicely done Glenn, Looks good even under macro, a testament to your care and attention. B.E.

It wouldn't take much to fill that gap between the keel and stem piece, Glenn, or to smooth and fill around those locating pegs between the two layers along the keel. I imagine she's looking ok from normal viewing distance, those macro photos can be brutal. B.E.

Post Twenty-five Planking, planking, and more planking. After a further eight days the first planking is completed, and a first rough sanding applied. 0687(2) 0680(2) 0672(2) The keel, stem, and stern posts temporarily in place. 0671 0684(2) 0674(2) 0710 Pleased to see that the hull formation sits quite well on the stand. 0713 The sanding will now continue until I achieve satisfaction, or my patience runs out. B.E. 18/10/21

A beautiful collection of models Nils, I've always admired your approach to modelling, and your latest addition looks great. My own favourites are the large two and four stacker steamers, fabulous builds. B.E.

A Freudian slip perhaps Glenn, after all, 'very nice work and explanations' fits your bill exactly.😄 B.E.

She's pretty as a picture Glenn, all down to your excellent fettlin'👍 B.E.

Post Twenty-four Fitting the Garboard Plank. I find it more difficult to visualise the garboard run without the keel and stem in place, so these are temporarily fitted. 0618(2) I made a dummy stem post for the lower part to better gauge where the Garboard plank should start at the forward end. It seems to me that certainly for the first planking, this really means running the plank to the very outer edge of the false keel and shaping to match. 0622(2) I decided to use a 10mm wide strip of Limewood for the Garboard, a sort of Garboard plus. I keep a small supply of 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm wide strips, always useful when it comes to spiling. 0633 I left the aft end of the plank to run naturally as it will need faying down to nothing towards the keel. 0623 The twist as it meets the flat of the keel is evident here. 0630(2) The position at the bow doesn’t look too bad to my eye. 0625 How this will work out in practice remains to be seen. The maximum number of full width planks remaining down to the keel is now 14. So, it’s down to using a tick strip approach to fill the remaining space. B.E. 11/10/21

Thank you Paul, Mark, Bob, and Glenn(UK) @ Glenn- Once I have shaped the planks, I re-fit them (dry) using pins and clamps. The hot air does indeed reinforce the bend, there is always a little spring-back particularly with edge bends. Regards, B.E.

Hi, bitter, Beyond using it on Cricket bats I avoid Linseed oil like the plague in relation to modelling. It can be quite sticky and take an age to dry, I would be very wary of using it, certainly on a completed model. I did include a list of the items and sources at the end of my log, Richard has given the reference in his post. As regards the colour of the topsides, Black was the official colour for British ships contrary to the nice shade of blue shown on so many contemporary models. Regards, B.E.

Post Twenty-three Planking down to the lower deck and stern counter. I decided that a simple approach of taper and edge bend was sufficient for the next four strakes which take me down to just below the lower deck. The taper applied is modest, only reducing the plank width at the stem to 4mm. 0578 I’m very much old school and prefer to use the wet and heat system of plank forming. Only requirements a long plastic tube for soaking, and an old hairdryer donated by Mrs W. In summary: Mark the taper, soak, cut taper, mark edge bend centre, (where applicable) form bend, apply heat, pin, and glue. 0574 I work the strakes singly, Port and Starboard, matching the bow tapers as I go. With Sphinx, the tricky part is to get the sharp bend up to the counter as neat and smooth as possible. 0580(2) All the stern strips are separate and staggered along the bulkheads between the stern and b/h9. 0573(2) The bend didn’t prove too difficult to form and should be easier with the thinner Pearwood strips of the second planking. 0584 0586 Once the planks are formed I test fit them using clamps and pins before gluing, applying a blast of heat with the strips in place. 0599(2) 0597(2) I’m taking things at a leisurely pace at present, other stuff to do, so fitting the four strakes each side has taken several days. 0602(2) 0603(2) 0608(2) 0615(2) Moving onto the Garboard…. B.E. 10/10/21

Hi Allan, I got the information from the the Book Old ship figure-heads & sterns by L.G. Carr-Laughton. He was a founder member of the Society for Nautical Research, and editor of the Mariner's Mirror. His book is a hefty tome and well worth having. My copy is a Conway Maritime Press Limited edition published in 1991, altho' the original was published in 1925. Regards, B.E.

The order for ships to have names on their sterns was issued in 1771. The names were to be painted on the second counter in letters of 1 foot high and be enclosed in a compartment. Oldies will remember that Victory had her name in a cartouche on the stern for many years. In 1772 the order was amended, letters were now to be painted without a compartment in letters as large as the counter would permit. (Victory now has that format) In 1778 Admiral Keppel had the names rubbed out on his fleet, but that only applied to one campaign during that year. The large letters continued until after Trafalgar, but according to LG Carr-Laughton, in the closing years of the war apparently the name was painted small in a little compartment; and not long after the peace was entirely omitted. Museum ships of the post Napoleonic era don’t always adhere to this arrangement. The following ships all have their names on the stern; Trincomalee 1817, Unicorn 1824, Warrior 1860, Gannet 1878. In relation to ships of the 1770's I would certainly include the name on the counter. B.E.

Some nice detailing there bitter, glad my build was of use to you. One thing that catches my eye are the chainplates to the Main Channels; they seem to have a reverse angle rather than being angled slightly forward or vertical. I recall that I had to modify the kit etched items to fit on my build. At your late stage in the build I’m not sure how to proceed with any hand applied protective coating with all the fittings in place, makes it tricky to get an even application. Perhaps you can use light coats of a spray matt varnish overall, having removed all dust. I think this is an approach taken by some modellers, but one I've not tried myself. With decks I would scrape them (not sand) to a smooth finish and apply a coat of flat matt water-based varnish such as supplied by Admiralty paints. This would be done after fitting the coamings of the hatchways but before any of the other fittings were installed. For the hull planking I would use a wipe-on-poly, but this would also be done before the addition of fittings. B.E.

Neatly cut scarph joints starlight, and your stove looks excellent, well done. B.E.

One of the consequences of being a 'pathfinder' Glenn. At least you have alerted members to this potential issue, and James gives good advice; If everything isn't looked at stages ahead to check for any effect of impact, then you can't retroactively push yourself to the point where everything will align. This is a critical area of any build, I hope you get it sorted. B.E.

My copy arrived earlier this week, and I agree with your comments Mark. A lot of book for the money, and well worth the wait. I can see where Chuck got a lot of his inspiration from for his Royal barge and Longboat models There is a great section on Barges. B.E.

There surely is, but not one I made. Together with a 24-pounder long gun I found it in a small village shop many years ago. The barrels are cast iron and the woodwork Oak. Nice items and very heavy, not sure of the scale but the long- gun barrel is 15½” muzzle to button, and the Carronade 11½” The Breeching ropes I made myself at The Chatham Naval Dockyard on their demonstration ropewalk. B.E.