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Blue Ensign

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  1. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Chuck, I am impressed by the thought you have put into the design of this model, it is a joy to build. I can't imagine that new batch of kits will hang around long. 🙂 Regards, B.E.
  2. Blue Ensign
    Post Thirty-six Applying friezes. Before I started I re-sprayed the friezes using Windsor & Newton fixative. 2079(2) An improvised spray booth. 2077(2) A kit was put together to aid this rather tedious task. 2080 Diluted pva applied with fine brush was used to glue the friezes in place. A centre blank attached to a toothpick is used to press the friezes into place. 2091(2) The addition of the friezes transforms the look of the barge. At this point I add the support bracket for the bow Flagstaff. This probably also doubles up as a hull brace. 2085(2) Quite a tricky little beggar to fit, ensuring it is central and sits as best it can down on the bow frieze panels. Even so a touch of filler is required to smooth out the edge joins. 2083(2) I ran a bead of diluted pva along the joins. Once that has cured, I will complete the filling and paint the bracket. 2084 2089(2) Best part of a day to see this task completed, time to crack open the Merlot I think. 🍷 B.E. 26/05/21
  3. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Allan, the simple answer is I didn’t. I used two melt points on the brass elements, but the glass seed beads were ca’d onto the brass. I’m not sure they will remain as small as they are they still seem a tad over-scale. The crown was actually constructed from the two parts of a small brass etched grapnel trimmed to suit. Regards, B.E.
  4. Blue Ensign
    Post Thirty-five Adding the Decorative panels. Chuck emphasises the fragility of these fancy little frames, but at least had them laser cut saving a lot of time and effort. I well remember forming the mitres for the panels on the 1:48 scale Pinnace and have even less fond memories of doing the same for the 1:64 scale Pinnace I made for Pegasus. The first issue that comes to mind is how do I glue these frames to the inboard planking without marring the paintwork that I have just spent hours fiddling with. The majority of pieces fit simply enough guided by the thwart edges, but I can’t afford to have excess glue squeezing beneath the outer edges or be faced with any form of hard-edged clean-up. 2056 To fix the frames I decided on minute spots of ca applied to the back face. With the bottom edges sitting on the thwart the question of moving around to fix position does not arise. As advised by Chuck I did minimal cleaning up of the frame edges, using the centres to support the piece whilst light pressure was applied. 2058 I wet the curved bow pieces for a few minutes, clamped them into place, and applied heat for a few moments. This was sufficient to de-stress them before gluing into place. The panels that gave me the most trouble were those for the Sternsheets. There are no fixed points of reference for height and distance, and the shape and dimensions of the Boxwood patterns differed slightly from those shown on the plan. 2061 I used Tamiya tape to define the inboard position of the larger frame, (7mm) and the distance between the two frames, (6mm). 2059 A 1.5mm thick piece of scrap wood was used to get a uniform height above the benches. 2064 The final item is the Frame to fit on the Transom, to get this centred I used a cut-out from the plan. 2073 Careful as I was, the paintwork was marred a little as can be seen on the benches here, but I managed to get thro’ this exercise without any breakages. 2074 Further evidence of paint scuffing on the Fore deck. 2072(2) 2068(2) 2070(2) A small repair to the paintwork and then the panel friezes to fit. B.E. 25/05/21
  5. Blue Ensign
    Coming along nicely Paul, a fine job on the hull planking. 👍 B.E.
  6. Blue Ensign
    Post Thirty-four Paint, sand, fill, and repeat. Any obvious areas needing filling are attended to and a first paint layer applied. This has the effect of revealing multiple deficiencies, not entirely unexpected, so it’s a case of sand, fill, and repeat. The result, better, but not there yet. The following control photos are the result after two further sand and fill sessions. 2055(2) 2054(2) 2053 2051 2049(2) One thing I should have realised is that the paint dust on my fingers has a tendency to mar the bare Cherry wood hull so it was necessary to tape over the woodwork. I should have done this at the outset. 2050 Painting the inboard panels and capping rails has given me a chance to get a better appreciation of how leaving the thwarts as varnished wood will look in the overall scheme. 2048 Time to repeat the sanding process, but this time I am using a light touch and fine grade paper. B.E. 24/05/21
  7. Blue Ensign
    That looks wonderful Chris, a serious temptation.👍 B.E.
  8. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Glenn, I went into a little more detail on fitting the bow section internal planking, as I thought it may help those following on. Chuck didn't have any photo's of this part of the build to include in the Instructions. Regards, B.E.
  9. Blue Ensign
    Post Thirty-three Inboard Planking. Spiled Laser cut strips are provided for the purpose, but these still need tweaking to fit properly. The bottom edge sits tight against the riser top and across the thwarts, the top edge is required to run up to the lower edge of the capping rail. In the case of my build the strip simply requires sanding of the top edge to reduce its width a tad. I marked the position of the thwarts on the strip and measured the distance between riser and capping rail using a tick strip method. The marks were transferred to the strip and the sanding line marked. It was then simply down to sanding and test checking. 1966 Once satisfied, the strip was clamped into place and given the hairdryer heat treatment to take the tension out of it before final gluing into place. 1972(2) Note the rabbet formed with the Capping rail. 1971 Both strips fixed into place. The trickier element of the inboard planking is a shorter section that runs forward around the curve of the bow. These are also pre- spiled but will need some fettlin’ to fit. 1976 The first task is to water/heat bend to fit the curve. 1977 The forward end is firstly trimmed to fit beneath the rail. 1987 By degrees the top edge is sanded and the length cut to meet the long strip. 1988 To support the panel I added an additional ‘false’ frame each side beneath the rail. This something Chuck mentions in his pdf Instructions and is worth doing to properly secure the panels. 1993 Sections glued into place. 1995 The final assembly of this part is to add small sections to provide a wider surface for the thole pins to sit. These sections are laser cut, and simply require sanding flush with the capping rail. 2002(2) 1998 A little filling and smoothing and she’s ready to lay some paint down. I suspect there will be several sessions of paint, fill and sand, before she is ready for a final coat. B.E. 23/05/21
  10. Blue Ensign
    Ah, I see where you're coming from Tim, I think it is a kit simplification, but in the overall scheme of things, once all the top hamper is on, it won't be that apparent. Cheers, B.E.
  11. Blue Ensign
    What are the narrow sections above the heels and fids on the Topmasts, Tim? B.E.
  12. Blue Ensign
    I remember you mobbsie, and your magnificent 'aggie' build. A long time on the beach, but I doubt there is any time limit on MSW, welcome back. B.E.
  13. Blue Ensign
    Post thirty-two Completing the seating. Decision made, I am leaving the thwarts unpainted which I think will make a nice contrast to the Red paintwork. There is also an element in me that dislikes painting nice wood. 1906 I firstly fixed the position of the step for the Royal Standard Flagstaff. This is far easier to fit before the thwarts are glued into place. 1901 The kit provides 2.25mm ø dowel for the Flagstaffs which is a tad narrow for the step socket meaning it readily flops about even when fitted thro’ the hole in the thwart. 1902 This is not helpful when trying to position the step on the floorboards to give a staff that will be vertical in both planes. A small ring was added atop the step to securely hold the Staff. 1909 The Foredeck is painted, and the first thwart fitted into place. 1907 The remaining thwarts are then fitted sequentially, each with its centre section to be glued into the thwart before it. The thinnest smear of pva is used to glue the thwarts in place, and the run is checked to ensure a smooth transit. 1910 Small Weights are used to secure each thwart as fitted. 1914(2) A final check of the line run. 1919(2) 1920(2) A coat of wipe-on-poly has been applied at this point. 1922(2) 1921(2) The Flagstaff seems to be ok, so the next stage is fitting the interior bulwark planking. B.E. 20/05/21
  14. Blue Ensign
    Nice job on the oars Derek, can't beat the Boxwood look on small boats and oars. The whole model is looking splendid. 👍 B.E.
  15. Blue Ensign
    Nice set up on the gun rigging Richard, I bet you're pleased that repetitive and fiddly exercise has been completed. B.E.
  16. Blue Ensign
    On the NMM version the helmsman still sits behind the sternsheets, perhaps lines were a less intrusive option. On the kit version the tiller is quite short, but the space for the helmsman is pretty small. Thanks Ian, that's what I would plan to do, the red painted internal planking and capping rail would join the two sections together. B.E.
  17. Blue Ensign
    Post thirty-one Progressing the seating This involves placing sections that fit between the thwarts centrally down the boat. The main objective is to get a tight clean fit up against and either side of the thwarts. I start by gluing a section into thwart one, the forward end fitting into the Fore deck edge. The sections will require cutting of one edge to fit the space, the length is marked and cut sufficient to leave a final sanding trim. 1880 To this end I made a simple jig to hold the thwart and centre section for sanding. I took this process very slowly with constant test fits. 1877 I moved progressively down the boat until each thwart had a centre section that fitted into the thwart forward of it. My decision to notch the thwarts around the frames proved the right one. On three of the thwarts, I did need to tweak the fit to get the centres in line; had I initially trimmed them to sit only on the risers, one side may have been left without support. Once I had completed the whole thing I reviewed and replaced three centre sections where I thought the joint insufficiently tight. Fortunately, Chuck includes a few spares no doubt for this purpose. 1882(2) One of my concerns is that viewed from the side the centre line planks run in a subtle sheer line from bow to stern without any hint of an angle. 1885(2) Being unglued at this stage the centre planks can move about a bit but once I have confirmed I can achieve a look good to my eye, I trust I can replicate it as I glue the sections into place. 1895(2) Worth getting my oarsman in to check the seating arrangement. 1898 1896 1888 1891(2) 1890(2) At this point I am torn between painting the thwarts red or leaving them natural, sealed with wipe-on-poly. B.E. 18/05/21
  18. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Chuck, I will re-visit the moulding once I have completed the thwarts. On the subject of thwarts, once you had got the dry fit did you glue them all together before fitting to the boat, or glue them in place individually? Regards, B.E
  19. Blue Ensign
    I'm not sure Derek, I got it from Original Marquetry in Bristol. B.E.
  20. Blue Ensign
    Great idea with the parrels Derek, they look good. 👍 I have made oars at 1:64 scale, I make them by hand, but clean boxwood square stock is required which reduces the breakage rate, but the attrition is still quite high, the blades are also Boxwood. These are examples I made for the Pinnace on Pegasus. B.E.
  21. Blue Ensign
    Post Thirty Thwarts n’all I decided to return to fitting the thwarts but before I did I released the one whittled Acanthus decoration from its backing. Hardly a success, it did release naturally but a couple of bits fell off, even more problematic the decoration would not fit between the rails. 1874(2) This is quite puzzling as I measured it accurately, and the resin versions as shown above fits perfectly. The inference is that I haven’t reduced the width of the scrolls and swirls sufficiently, and I thought that they were already pretty thin. I will park this issue until the thwarts are fitted. Fitting the thwarts. My main concern is to ensure that all the cut outs that take the centre pieces are in line once the thwarts are fitted onto the risers. Thwarts 1, 7, and 9 are not much of a problem because they are clear of the frames, but the remainder are blocked from fitting at their full length because the frames at some point inhibit their passage. It looks like Chuck has cut the thwarts on his build shorter to just sit on the risers and up against the frames where necessary. The riser edges are a very narrow surface to support the thwarts, and I envisage problems if there are centring errors with the centre boards. 1871 I opted to notch the thwarts where required which will give me more leeway when it comes to adding the centre boards. The thwarts fitted spot on in the riser notches but as indicated by Chuck, the notches required deepening a tad to allow the thwarts to sit down to allow a close-fit run of the inboard panelling atop the thwarts. 1868(2) Note to self, remember to fit the step for the Royal Standard Flagstaff below thwart six before it is glued into place. 1866(2) The thwarts will now be removed and the risers painted. 1865(2) The next stage is the testy business of cutting and fitting the central boards. B.E 15/05/21
  22. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Chuck, I understand the figure was left unpainted to distinguish that it was a modern (1975) replacement. There’s no mistaking that she is the Queen, dressed in what looks like her Coronation robes, wearing the Imperial Crown, orb and septre in her hands. Interesting that the contemporary model of the Barge has no Flying Transom and is fitted with with tiller lines rather than a tiller. B.E.
  23. Blue Ensign
    Post Twenty-nine Still in attendance to the Queen Before I put paste to Royal head, I had a trial on a spare figure to get a feel of the how the paste worked, and its working and drying times. The Queen will be wearing a small crown or coronet and I need to establish how this will fit on her hair. 1838(2) Having made a brass ring to form the base of the crown, I could start to form the hair and when the paste had started to set, the ring was placed on the head leaving an impression for the final fit. I then had the task of making up the crown, a tiny thing of 5mm diameter by 5mm high. 1823 The fit looks ok. 1833(2) The parts were silver soldered together and gemstones added in the form of seed beads. 1846 1847 1850 1854 1857 1853 1856(2) Still some tweaking to do, I think the hairline across the forehead needs softening, but I feel that she will now make a credible 18thc figure. I will leave it there now and return to fitting out the barge. B.E. 14/05/21
  24. Blue Ensign
    I can't get that image out of my head now Hubac.😉 You wouldn't want me around you with a scalpel Derek, I've had two sliced fingers this week.🙄 Thanks Guys, B.E.
  25. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Chuck, As a first move to transforming my Edwardian lady into an 18th Century Queen I had to remove all the hat and hair detail and give her the Virgin Queen look without her wig. 1816 1818 I have left the remnants of a ribbon which will hopefully turn into a ringlet. I used a combination of scalpel, chisel, and files to perform the task. The tricky part was removing the rim of the hat which came down over her forehead. The next stage is to recreate the ringlets and curls piled high on her head and tumbling down over her shoulders. Easier said than done I suspect. For the purpose I will be using Windsor and Newton heavy carving modelling paste to build up the hair by layers and hopefully give her a hair style fit for a Queen. B.E.

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