Blue Ensign

Post Twelve A Barge emerges. A point in the build that I suspect many builders are pleased to reach. The hull is removed from its building board. I took this slowly and carefully as advised by Chuck, and it didn’t prove too onerous. I now have my first sight of the model the right way up unencumbered by the board. 1235 Front part of the board removed, so far, so good. At this point I was tempted to add the Garboard strake as shown in Chuck Seiler’s build, which would also no doubt help to counter any tendency for the hull to hog, given the length and fineness of the keel. I rather liked to look of it, but I also liked the view of the deadwood at the stern which would be obscured by the Garboard strake. Decisions, decisions, but in the end I opted for the original Chuck presentation. 1238(2) I modified the building board for the second stage of the build as suggested in the instructions. Stem and stern post supports are necessary to hold the hull secure. 1242(2) I am a big fan of Balsa blocks to support models whilst working. They are endlessly re-worked to suit each new project. 1244(2) The barge is now held firmly in place for me to begin the business of frame centre removal. 1246(2) For this delicate operation I am using an etched fine-toothed scalpel saw. 1286(2) The whole process went very well, a few of the frames broke away from the planking but were easily re-glued, and there were no breaks in the frames themselves. 1281(2) Once cut, the centres came away easily using a gentle rocking motion. The discarded centres will no doubt come in for other projects. My covid hairstyle continues to develop, and still several weeks away from a barber, but who needs a barber when you’re busy building a Barge. 1278 With all the centres removed I can now sight along the hull and clearly see whether my fitting of the Transoms looks right. 1287(2) It looks ok to my eye, but stare at something too long and………. 1290(2) A chance to compare this 36’ Royal Barge to my 21’ Pinnace, both at 1:24 scale. 1292(2) 1295 1298(2) Four weeks fairly steady work to reach this point and I have what looks like a Barge in Frame. Back under its cover for the Pinnace, and onto what Chuck describes as the most delicate stage of the build. I suspect progress is about to slow down. B.E. 24/03/21

Thank you, Chuck, Glenn, Michael, and Kirill, and for the ‘likes’. @ Glenn – Clamping is such an important part of ship modelling, I don’t think you can have too many clamps, and getting inventive with methods is part of the skill set. @ Kirill – I do use ca gel but usually only in those areas where clamping is difficult or instant grab is necessary. I use pva in preference as it is kinder to the wood (and me) and it doesn’t mark the surface of timber or make it brittle, as does ca. The pva I use is a high quality non waterproof glue that grabs in around 5 minutes, unwanted spread is easily cleaned up with a paintbrush dipped in water, and water is used to de-bond the glue if necessary. The main thing I would use ca for is applying copper plates to hulls. Bonding other metal items, where I would have previously used ca I now silver solder where possible. Regards, B.E.

All turned out very well Richard, this is the point in a build where the fun part starts for me. B.E.

Thanks Peter, an oldie but a goodie as they say, but still a model that can be made a lot of. I think the plastic lion is ok and if treated today with artist oils could look really good. I'm glad they have replaced those plastic blocks and deadeyes, and there is so much stuff out there now to enhance models. I was forty years too early with my attempt. Cheers, B.E.

Liking what I see Phill 👍 B.E.

There are scant details on MSW of builds of this iconic Billing Boat kit, and periodically questions arise, often concerning inherited or partially built models requiring completion or restoration in the absence of plans or instructions, which in the case of Billing Boats were somewhat thin. So, in the spirit of giving some images that may help, I post here my Norske Løve story. I must have posted it somewhere before but can’t for the life of me remember where or when, but I do have my original log and photos. A cautionary note, this is a model I made over forty years ago, so the standard of fittings, and the ravages of dust have taken its toll on the condition. If I knew then what I know now I could certainly have made a better job of her but she remains a model for which I still have great affection, and I have resisted the temptation to upgrade her. Those not familiar with the finer points of our art tend to be seriously impressed by the sight of her. ( Norske) Løve Story More years ago, than I care to remember, before my office was a den of computer stuff, and before the digital age, I had a yen to build a large scale wooden 18th century warship. In those days it was either Billing Boats or Billing Boats, and as I browsed through their catalogue my eyes alighted on Norske Løve. It was the image of the modeller putting the final touches to the model that grabbed my attention, I wanted to be that guy. BB Cat cover Yes, I still have that original catalogue, in those days I actually went to a model shop, can you believe it! Pity I didn’t have the internet resource back then, but I did have the Longridge book and perhaps more importantly the Masting and rigging book by James Lees. Given that the Norske Løve was launched in 1765 it immediately struck me that the round tops provided in the kit, were oddly out of period, more 17th century than 18th The masts and tops were therefore scratch built to proportions given in the Lees book for ships of the correct period. The other main area that gave me concern was the head. In common with many wooden kit models this is a weak area with a less than realistic rails set up. Catalogue shot of the bows These were therefore also scratch built. I made other ‘modifications’ not necessarily in accordance with the plans, such as a skylight on the Poop and removeable skids to house boats which were not provided with the kit. Billing at the time (and probably still are) were in the habit of providing some plastic fittings for their kits such as blocks and Deadeyes, decorations etc. I seem to recall that the fittings kit was a separate purchase to the main build kit. This is Billings catalogue shot of the completed model. The build took me a couple of years, and my office resembled more of a joiners shop than an office. Drill stand and vice screwed to the desk top, wood turning model lathe and dremel permanently plugged in where now the printer and computer stuff reside. Everything was covered in a fine film of dust, but boy how I enjoyed that build. When completed the model sat in a lighted cabinet that filled one wall of the office and that’s how it stayed for some years. With the arrival of computers and the need to use my office for its proper purpose, everything was changed. Away went the cabinet and all the modelling stuff. 1153 Norske Løve then proudly sat uncovered on a long chest of drawers, where it resides to this day. Strangely things have come full circle and in retirement my office once again resembles more of a workshop, but I don’t think the resident equipment would appreciate a return to the heavy sawdust days. So here is the photo collection of my interpretation of Norske Løve, 1120 1127 1134 1138 1139 The head rails were scratch built using yellow pine, but there were several breakages before I got a satisfactory set. The Lower and Middle rails are mortised thro’ the head timbers, and the Main rail rebated into the head timbers. 04 02 I recall the exercise being long, slow, and frustrating. 1151 I particularly like the stern and Quarter galleries with their glazed lights, one of my pet dislikes with wooden kits are false windows or even worse stuck on windows, such as with the Mantua Le Superbe that lies forlornly in the loft. This is one area where Billing have done a good job, there was very little tweaking to this area of the build. 1140 1170 The modified tops, scratch built to proportions given by James Lees. The plastic rigging blocks supplied by Billings were replaced by boxwood versions. 004(2) 1133 1152 The main difficulty with single planked hulls such as this is that there is little scope for cocking it up if you don’t want to hide it with paint. I also have an aversion to stub guns so the lower ports are closed. 008(2) 010 The Poop was modified by the addition of a skylight, and the Ensign hand painted on cotton. The simplicity of the Danish flag lends itself to this method. 007(2) I think the anchors were aftermarket purchases. The Boats 002 005 Boats were not supplied so I had to create my own. 1132 1173 The deck fittings are mostly removeable to assist cleaning which is evidently overdue when this photo was taken. 1145 Dust build up is clearly apparent here. 1135 I really prefer models out of cases, they have so much more impact, and 1:75 scale allows for reasonable cleaning access which in this case takes about three hours every few months or so. I hope those who cross paths with this kit get some benefit from this vintage build. Regards, B.E. 22/03/21

Thank you Thunder and Mike. @ Mike, - rather than clutter your log with photos of my build, I will put a separate log on here for folks to use as they will. My build long pre-dated MSW but I do have a short log that I must have put on some other site, but where I simply can't remember. I hope you will find it of use. Regards, B.E.

Post Eleven Flying Transom. This is another tricky piece to hold in the correct position whilst the glue bites. 1192 I used pva and bamboo poles to secure the angle and to support the Flying Transom whilst the glue bites. It allows me time to sight and check the Flying Transom set-up from various angles. 1201 1208(3) 1214 With the Flying transom in place I use a template taken from the plan to mark the curve down from the underside to the Transom base. 1224 The stern area is then taped up to provide stability for the next stage. 1226 I then carefully pare down to this line using a No 11 scalpel. 1228 The plank ends are then sanded back to the Transom face. 1234 1232 1231(2) The next stage sees her released from the base and the removal of the frame centres. B.E. 21/03/21

Hi Mike, I built Norske Love many years ago, and still have it on display, it is an impressive model, altho’ not up to modern standards in terms of fittings. I too found it odd that the tops are shown as round on a ship of 1765, (more appropriate to the 17th c) and I replaced mine with the more standard versions of the time. I also replaced all the deadeyes and rigging blocks with Boxwood versions. These photo’s that I put up in answer to a question somewhere long ago give you an idea of the use of proper deadeyes and blocks and the modified Tops. Regards, B.E.

Thank you Michael and Kirill. Post Ten Completing the planking. Three planks per side to complete what is the Sheer strake. For this work I have the hull the right way up as I find it easier to see and check the fit. 1126 I work with the model atop of the kit box which gives me a comfortable working position. 1128 The first bow plank (5) requires a bend to follow the bow curve into the rabbet and also a little twist so it lays square to the rabbet. A little tricky this one, on my build anyway; getting the plank to sit tight down on lower plank between the first Futtock and the rabbet was the main concern but a hairline gap should be covered by a moulding. The middle section (6) simply requires cutting to length and ensuring a close butt joint to the previous plank. The aft section (7) required a little shallow bending to round Futtocks 9 and 10 without tension, but I found it the most tricky to attach to the Transom and the extended plank run. 1135 I devised a bamboo pole support system to hold the plank tight against the Transom. Balsa wood support blocks prove useful in this situation. 1138 The final plank is put into place. It may all look a bit dramatic but the pressures are light and hopefully sufficient to produce a good bond. 1142 I left the hull to cure overnight. 1148 I have started to feather the clinker towards the stern, more to do but I think I will wait until I have fitted the Flying Transom which will stop any flex in the planking. 1145(2) 1146(2) 1155 The next stage is to fit the Flying Transom. B.E. 20/03/21

Excellent work on the masthead ropework Michael, it looks splendid. You should take up Macramé 🙂 B.E.

Hi Michael, I hadn’t realised that you are safemaster until Hubac made a link reference to my Le Praetorian build. Your work on these Heller kits is second to none, and your current project is no exception. I still fondly remember your 1765 Victory build, and the Figurehead, a magnificent bash if ever there was one. Glad to see you are still creating your wonderful models. B.E. (Maurice)

Post Nine Fitting planks 3 and 4 This is where the clinker comes into play. Port and Starboard can get a little confusing when it comes to these pre spiled planks. What initially looks like the outboard face of Plank 3 on the fret is in fact the inboard face. When working with the hull inverted I have to remind my addled old brain that Port is on the right and Starboard on the left. Having bevelled the inward face of plank 3, the corresponding bevel of plank 1 is carefully pared down at the bow to allow plank 3 to fit into the stem rabbet with a feather edge. I find the 2mm Swann-Morton chisel blade perfect for this. 1071 The plank is water/heat treated to form the bend around the bow, and a small amount of lateral twist is imparted to the end of the plank to allow it to sit flush against the stem rabbet. 1069 With the plank temporarily in place the aft end can be marked for trimming on Futtock 2. As with the first planks I prepare both sides before any glue is applied. The Portside plank went on without trouble using ca, but I keep a small pot of acetone at hand to clean off any overspill on the face of the plank. The main concern now is to ensure that the opposite side plank has a uniform meet at the bow rabbet. 1073 For this reason and to give me a little tweak time I used pva for the rabbet join and the first two Futtocks. This allowed me to sight along the bow and make any minor adjustment before clamping in position. Use of ca would have precluded this. 1078(2) Light pressure is used and the model is set aside for the pva to cure. 1083 Plank three successfully (I hope) attached. I continued to use pva which worked out ok. 1084(2) It will stand a little more feathering into the bow but that can wait awhile. Onto Plank 4 Very little fiddling needs to be done, I did impart a little twist towards the end to allow the plank to lie flat without tension across Futtocks 9 and 10 and the Transom. 1100 At the sternpost I added a balsa support piece to brace the planking for gluing the extensions beyond the transom. 1106 The final plank 4 goes on without incident. 1113 1108 1111 At this point the clinker has yet to be feathered out at the stern. Onward and upwards to the sheer strake. B.E. 17/03/21

Great artistry and innovation to produce this wonderful model Kirill, many congratulations on a project well done. Regards, B.E.

Hi Wood gnome, thanks for looking in. Yes, once the false deck was installed, which was cut around the bulkhead tops, the tops were cut down and covered by the the Margin Plank. The bulkheads do not correspond with 'frames' which on the kit are represented by the timberheads added later. The inside of the bulwarks were then lined. Hope you enjoy your Fly build. B.E.

Hi Derek, I too have made my own like yours, but Amati have brought out this more formal set using a brass plate. I first saw them on one of James Hatch’s logs, they are called a clamp set (Item 7377) and contain 12 clamps. I still use my home made ones as well, but these are a useful addition to the clamping arsenal, and they don’t exert too much pressure, which is good when working on more delicate framing. If I want to exert slightly more pressure I bend the handle on the homemade version slightly inwards. Cheers, B.E.

As a picture Chuck, and all down to your great design features, and guidance. I'm feeling a little more relaxed now that the frames are secured by the planking. 👍 B.E.

Post Eight Progressing the planking strakes. I begin with the Starboard aft first strake which is a simpler arrangement than the bow section. 1024(2) Dry fitting the aft plank. I imparted a shallow bend to assist the plank to lie flat across Futtocks 8 and 9, followed by a shallow outward bend between Futtocks 10 and the transom. This is to create a concave sweep running into the Flying Transom. 1025 This photo shows the concave curve that will run to connect with the Flying Transom. 1027 As with the stem, a support block is temporarily fixed to the board to support the Transom and counter any lateral pressure when gluing. At this point I haven’t glued the aft plank to the transom, I will do that once the second (Portside) plank is fixed, and I can tweak the set up with both in place. 1030 Aft piece shape. 1051 The Transom is held steady for the gluing. 1050(2) 1036 1048(2) 1063(2) A small block of balsa is used to support and protect the transom. B.E. 13/03/21

Thanks Rusty, sometimes that ‘handle’ feels a little fragile, this is a build that surely concentrates the mind, but enjoyable all the same. Post Seven First fixings I have spent most of yesterday faffing around with the first planks. The final tasks before gluing is to bevel the plank for the bow /rabbet fit and trim the plank to terminate at the forward Futtock ‘O’. The Portside plank went on fairly easily, but the Starboard version not so. To my increasing frustration the ca initially refused to grab on several of the Futtocks. The bow strake/rabbet connection was particularly stubborn and in the end I left it until last and used pva which allowed me to tweak the level to match the Portside. 0991 There is an element of flexibility in the as yet unsupported stem, and it really needs holding in the vertical line whilst the first plank is applied. 1013 1012(2) 1007 1001(2) 0993 0996 1018(2) 1009(2) I am satisfied with the outcome, and not a little relieved that this first critical task is completed. B.E. 12/03/21

Post Six Planking begins. The positives Chuck has designed this kit with pre spiled planking. The materials are excellent. The instructions are clear. There are excellent build logs providing the benefit of experience, and I read them all before moving to a new section. One would be a fool to forgo all this valuable information. There are only three strakes which reduces the error element that can creep into fully planked builds. The Negatives. None as such, but the planking is quite delicate, and care must be taken to avoid undue pressures that may result in breakages of plank or frame. In the event of disasters Chuck does supply a get out of jail card in the form of spare planking sets. To avoid such setbacks, I will try my best to achieve a no tension fit of planks before I commit to glue. I start on the Portside. 0963 Tick strips prepared and sanding sticks assembled. 0967 I use Tamiya tape to define the bevelling area. 0974 I soak the plank and heat treat to impart the bend into the bow. In practice this amount of bend is not required, a shallower curve is sufficient. 0977 This photo demonstrates the direction of twist that is required to enable the plank to sit square in the stem rabbet. 0980 With the twist imparted the plank lies correctly. The clamps are applying very little pressure, sufficient only to hold the plank in place. Lateral pressure on the frames must be avoided at all costs. 0986 Before I fix the first plank I prepared the Starboard side so I can gauge the uniformity of the pair. 0988 0985 A little more dry fitting and fettlin’ required before I commit to glue, I think. B.E. 11/03/21

Well done, a good decision to not to proceed with the suggested kit arrangement. B.E.

What a nuisance Bradley, hope you fix it ok, it is in an awkward position. I suppose you could get a replacement from Chuck to restore your options. B.E.

Post Five Fairing. I approach this job with a degree of trepidation, being aware of the damage that can be done by a simple lapse of concentration in holding or manoeuvring, or a degree too much pressure put on the frames. Chuck re-iterates this point more than once. Using the fret from the Futtock sheets, I practised sanding the edges with a variety of different grade papers to gauge the removal effect and effort required to achieve it. 0929 I am using a finger sander with P150 and P240 papers, and Sheet P240 papers were also used. Using a fine touch was uppermost in my mind but even so a couple of frames dislodged from the keel at the stern, but it was easy work to re glue them. The process mainly seems to consist of cleaning off the char with actual bevelling only being applicable to the forward four and aft five Futtocks/frames plus the Transom board. 0935 I use a 0.7 x 6mm Boxwood strip to check the lie of the strake across the Frames. I am taking this very slowly, a lot of the fairing I do is along the vertical line to clean the char to avoid putting lateral pressure on the frames. This also has the effect of easing the friction when applying the necessary lateral strokes to fair the forward and aft frames. I didn’t do too much fairing at one time lest my natural inclination to complete the job got too much and the speed of working picked up. 0930 With the test strake fully sitting across all frames at various points I decided it was time to move on. A coat of wipe-on-poly is applied. 0942 0943(2) 0939 0953(2) The planking phase beckons. B.E. 09/03/21

Thanks for that Chuck, what a beautiful model, is that one made of Cherry? I will be well pleased if mine turns out any where near looking like that. B.E.

Hi Tim, The kit plan lengths tend to represent the full length taking into consideration the below decks element. The Bowsprit does have a taper, in my case I followed Steel - Taking a 20” heel (8mm ø ) 1st Qtr = 19¼” (7.86mm) 2nd Qtr 18¼ (7.33mm) 3rd Qtr 16” (6.4mm) End 11½”(4.5mm) The kit arrangement does have some simplifications, the jib boom inner end should be octagonal, I used 4mm square stock, and there should be sheaves set into the boom at the inner and outer ends and a hole at the inner end to facilitate the heel lashing. In practise Bowsprit caps were slightly wider on the starboard side of the mortise for the bowsprit and hole for the Jib boom, to allow for the Jack staff. Having said all this the proportions of your arrangement look good to my eye. B.E.