Blue Ensign

Looks good to my eye, 👍and as the build progresses and deck fittings are added the butt shift becomes less apparent. I used 4.5mm wide Boxwood strips for the deck planking which is what I had to hand at the time. (Post15) I would otherwise have gone with 3.4mm strips equating to planks of 8.5 inch widths. Regards, B.E.

I'm looking forward to it Tim, I will have some reference guides to the style I am intending, Chuck's Winnie build, and Greg Herberts Pegasus build as detailed in Vol 111 of the FFM. B.E.

I have written only recently that the era of building large 18th century square rigged warships was over for me, feeling perhaps 75 was too old to start such a project, coupled with where to put it issues. However, despite my best resolve I have once again fallen victim to the siren song of Chris’s latest offering. I spent yesterday evening looking at the eye candy photo’s provided by Chris’s fellow conspirator, James, looking for reasons not to wing £665 across to the Forest of Dean. All to no avail, even Mrs W said stop messing about and press the button. So, Sphinx will be my next project, but there will be compromises; I will build her as a Navy Board Style model without masting and rigging, and with much of the decking left off to reveal the wealth of detail provided by Chris. At least with this model, Chris has thoughtfully designed all the below decks detail so I won’t have to gut the innards as I did with Pegasus. In the meantime, back to figure bashing for the barge. B.E.

Thank you Guys, I've now created such books for my last eight builds, it's fairly straightforward to do with the build photo's already on file, they're really an abridged build log from MSW. 🙂 B.E.

That's great news for Chris, providing a much welcome return on his outlay in producing this rather wonderful kit. 👍 B.E.

Postscript Today my latest pictorial build record arrived from the printers covering my Royal Barge build. A few sample pages. 3266(3) 3264(3) 3263(3) 3262(3) 3265(2) I find compiling a record such as this a nice way to wind down from a build before the next one is started. Still undecided about a next main project I am going to continue adding Watermen to the model, a chance to improve my figure conversion skills. My idea is to add a maximum of five oarsmen to the boat if things go well. Cheers, B.E. 05/08/2021

She does have a nice look about her Tim, and incidentally I quite like the look of a model completed with just lower masts and rigging in place, convenient where space is an issue. Congratulations on your forthcoming all important 'project'. 🥂 Later this month it will be 50 years and many models completed in my case, I do hope your wife to be is sympatico with your modelling interests, as mine has been over all these years. 🙂 B.E.

Cutters make fine looking models, and I think you will enjoy the experience of building this kit. Chris has done a great job in simplifying those areas that may present difficulties for those new to kit building, but the main challenge remains the hull planking; take your time with that and make as good a job as you can with the first layer planking as a rehearsal for the top layer. Regards, B.E.

I’ve grown to like Chris’s clear stands, used them on all three of my Vanguard models. They are stylish and don’t detract from the model. I’ve never favoured the pedestals thro’ the keel approach, preferring keel blocks, but that’s just my preference. B.E.

Thank you John for your generous words, glad you liked the Pegasus log, she was a long time in the making, seven years on the stocks, but she remains one of my favourites. 🙂 B.E.

I like the way she's coming together Jean-Paul, very smart, and those wales look excellent. Your below deck cabins will look great with subtle lighting showing thro' the skylight, I look forward to seeing that in the future. B.E.

Thank you, Hubac, Jason, and Mike, much appreciated. 👍 B.E.

Thank you Guys for your generous comments, and a special thanks to Chuck for making all this possible. As for what's next, I have completed six models over the past two years of various scales and types, so I'll wait awhile before I decide. In the meantime I do have Chuck's little Double Capstan kit on the shelf, and I've thought that it may make a nice little addition to the case of my Pegasus model. 🙂 Regards, B.E.

Post Forty-eight Completion I decided I would keep the display simple using the keel support stands supplied in the kit. 2972(2) These were glued to a strip of ⅛” Castello Boxwood 3” x 24” left over from my Cheerful Build. 2973(2) This was dyed Jacobean Dark Oak. I normally baulk at dyeing Boxwood but the piece was handy and in its natural colour was too pale for the scheme. 3009(2) For space saving I have gone with the oar racks arrangement and the whole model fits in a space of 5½” wide by 24” long by 10” high. Not sure whether I will get an acrylic cover to fit over the model at this stage as it is relatively easy to dust. 3007 2975 2983(2) I have re-visited the Oarsman and adjusted his dress. 3012 I recall that Jason (Beef Wellington) suggested:- Think if you can get a little more 'flounce' to the bottom of the jacket to differentiate from the breeches they'll look great. I took his advice and I think the figure does indeed look better. It was also necessary to tweak the arm/hands position to accommodate the loom of the oar. 3014(2) 3030(2) 3020 3021 Not sure I can face the making of another nine oarsmen, but I think I will keep the one with the display. 3003(2) 2995(2) 2998(2) As always there are areas I feel I could have done better but overall I am pleased with the result and have something very nice to add to my collection. Thoughts about the kit This Royal Barge offering from Syren is a very fine thing indeed. An interesting and rather unique subject at a scale that allows for clear detail. This is a kit with many pre spiled laser cut parts, but it doesn’t feel like a kit, and any thoughts of a simple assembly job should be dismissed. Chuck has produced a design that allows the modeller to experience a futtock and frame assembly and offers an introduction to carving decoration. Great care and thought is required throughout and the end result is a model that clearly echoes the splendid admiralty style models displayed partly in-frame. I have thoroughly enjoyed this build and the challenges presented, and have no hesitation in commending this kit to the membership. Thank you, Chuck, for five months of concentration, joy, and a little frustration. B.E 26/07/21

Thank you, Bob, Grant, Glenn, and Derek, your continued support is much appreciated, as are those who visit and 'like' @ Derek, the beauty of Modelspan flags is that you can print off as many as you like and tweak them to size. If you mess one up there's always another. 🙂 B.E.

Just read thro' your log Eric, and what a journey you have been on, and what an excellent result. The model has great presence and I love the natural finish you have achieved. The display is spot on and the figures are a great addition to the overall effect. Love the bow shot with your first figure onboard. Very well done👍 B.E.

Congratulations Derek on completing a very fine build. Those who follow on with this kit will derive great benefit from your log and shared experience. Well done. B.E.

Thank you Bruce, nearly there now. 🙂 Post Forty-seven Dressing the oars. The kit provides a stylised Dolphin design to decorate the face of the oar blades. These are printed on paper and require close cutting before gluing to the blades. I started with a No11 scalpel blade, but found that small pointed scissors proved a better means of cutting without tearing. Even so it proved quite a time consuming business. I used 6mm Tamiya tape to ensure an equal placing distance from the blade tip. The designs are ‘handed’ for port and starboard oars. Once applied using dilute pva, the edges were painted around, and a coat of w-o-p applied to the design. The final act is to add thin strips around the tip of the blade to represent a binding used to prevent the blade tip splitting. I understand that Leather, tin, or perhaps copper strips were used for this purpose. I decided to use copper for no other reason than I liked it but this is a Royal Barge and one can imagine the sunlight flashing off the blade tips as the oars moved with the stroke. 2952 2953(2) 2956 All work is now completed on this build which is not the same as finished. There is a stand to prepare, and some faffing and fussing with the model before the final build photos are presented. B.E. 24/07/21

A fine model and dio Alan, and a fitting tribute to this iconic cruiser. Did you know that C.S. Forester dedicated his book The Ship to the officers and crew of HMS Penelope. I have a special interest in this ship as my uncle went down with her. As an ERA and with the ship closed up for action he had little chance of escape. He had transferred from her sister ship Aurora in December 43 after she was seriously damaged during an air attack. Such are the fortunes of war. B.E.

Post Forty-six Flag staffs and Flags. Two Flag staffs are required to be made from provided dowel. The staffs have decorative features in the form of wooden balls, but there is scope to elaborate the decoration if desired. 2907 I added extra balls and enhanced the Truck slightly. One small puzzlement I had was that with the staffs cut to the plan dimensions the Fore-staff was the same height as the Main-staff when fitted. Completed Broadside photos seemed to indicate that the Fore-staff was slightly shorter. Chuck has provided two flags to adorn the Barge, The Royal Standard and the Union Flag. The Royal Standard is of the period 1704-1714, and the Union Flag 1606 – 1800. Both are produced using the print on tissue paper method, in my opinion by far the best medium for model boat purposes, unless those models are very large indeed. For hoisting the flags, I will use a series of Ribands to secure the Flag, with the topmost ring attached to the mast truck. The Royal Standard Before I started messing with the flags I took the precaution of taking copies just in case things went pear-shaped. 2847 The copies were printed on Modelspan tissue. 2891 One of the spares was attached to a jury staff to allow me to play with folding and draping technique. I wanted to get the feel for how the flag would perform during this stage without risking the kit provided versions. 2892 The flag was wetted down using the spray fixative and teased into shape. The proper Standard was then fixed to the Flagstaff. 2914 I had a slight issue with the top of the hoist tearing away from the staff but the fixative held it in place once set. I was after a loose drape so as not to obscure too much of the colourful design of the standard. The Union Flag 2920 The kit provided Union Flag. These are always more problematical with the tissue method because when draped the transparency allows the red cross to show thro’ the white sections giving the impression that the ink has run. 2924 This is the effect I mean and this version will not stand. I couldn’t seem to get the drape I was after and was not at all happy with this result. Nothing for it but to print off some Union Flags onto Modelspan. I used 21gsm weight. 2926 I had thought that the Union Flag was a tad large for the Foremast and would likely to cover the foremost oarsman at the bow. I reduced the size a tad for these Mk 2 versions and added a hem to the hoist side. 2928 The Mk 2 flag attached to the staff; it has been sprayed with fixative to seal the colours. 2945(2) 2943(2) 2942(2) 2940(2) 2936(2) The Flag staffs are not glued in place and the flags may receive a little more dressing before the final display. In the final stages now and back to completion of the oars. B.E. 23/07/21

Nice work Richard, you may well find that the falls of the Main Yard Brace cover that scarph. B.E.

You will find it in Volume 11 page 188. B.E.

Well done Phill, that’s a fine planking job. 👍 B.E.

Thank you Matt, Bob, and Glenn. @ Matt - here's a photo of our last visit in 2019 before the world went mad. Looking down on Staithes my favourite village, and anticipating the wonderful Fish and Chips and Ale we will enjoy when we get there. We will certainly be re-visiting Staithes if the weather is kind to us, as it was in 2019. @ Glenn - I think the Hobbits live in the Middle lands of England, based on where Tolkein lived for many years, I go to Yorkshire to escape them 😀 Cheers, B.E.

Post Forty-five Working the Oars continued. Ten oars are required, and it is simply a case of getting down to this repetitive, but rather satisfying task. I used both scalpel blades and sanding sticks to achieve the required results. There is no real way of speeding up the process, but a jig as previously described does help with the tapering of the blades. For each set of five I prepared all the shafts first, glued them into the Looms and added the handles, I then set them aside for the glue to cure. The blades were then made. Final sanding of the shafts and the rounding of the handles was then done before adding the blades. Annoyingly one of the shafts developed a slight curve. 2831(2) I tried clamping in a vice and applying heat, to no avail, then I used the Quad hands with a central weight to straighten the shaft, again applying heat. This seemed to work after a couple of repeat treatments. 2843(2) The first five completed, but still requiring a final cleaning up. At this point I cleaned up the rather neat little oar racks designed by Chuck and glued them to base boards of 100mm x 25mm cut from the bulkhead frets. 2825(2) I think fixing to separate boards more convenient than attaching to what will be the base yet to be made. 2827(2) Pitch Pine stain was used to enrich the Cherry Wood. 2839(2) A trial fit in the racks. Work will now continue to complete the oars, but in the meantime the wilds of North Yorkshire are calling. B.E. 07/07/21