Blue Ensign

Build log part 51
 
 
 
was thinking of how to do the Stern lantern..., (not shown on the Amati plan)
 
I like the building kit set Chuck is offering, but I rather prefer one in brass. Exploring Ebay I found a nostalgic nice litte lantern for street illumination in scale 1:87 (H0, and the description said its the brass casting Version, that was exactly what I was looking for, and it was with clear glass instead of milkglass. When I opened the parcel, Oh dear, I was Holding a plastic Version with a reinforced brass tube lamppost Questioning this with the seller I learned that only the lamppost was to be in brass. So I sprayed the lamphousing in Brass Color, made a new bracket, arranged for a candle inside, and let my opinion of the view settle a bit...
 
 
 

this is make Viessmann lantern No. 6071, the railroad Freaks shall know....
The lamp housing with 17,5 mm hight ist just right to use for scale 1:64
 

the lantern Comes in black Color, top cover and glass insert can be removed. Here a new bracket is made together with a candle with dropping wax.
 
 

spray coating without the glass
 

and assembled at the stern
 

the bracket still requires some paint touchup
 

 
 
 
 
Nils

Hi Tom, I use Letraset gold rub on lettering  either Times New Roman or Helvetica depending on the size required. I think I used Helvetica on Pegasus because I couldn't get Times NR  in the size required.
 
Those cleverer than me produce their own transfers in which case the world of fonts and sizes is all available to them.
 
To complete the historical context; in 1771 names were to be painted on the second counter in letters 1 foot high to be enclosed in a compartment.
 
The order was amended in 1772 whereby the letters were to be as large as the counter would allow, without the compartment.
 Not all Admirals agreed with having the names on their ships, and I suspect there was a period when both forms or none could be found on British ships.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Hi Tom, I use Letraset gold rub on lettering  either Times New Roman or Helvetica depending on the size required. I think I used Helvetica on Pegasus because I couldn't get Times NR  in the size required.
 
Those cleverer than me produce their own transfers in which case the world of fonts and sizes is all available to them.
 
To complete the historical context; in 1771 names were to be painted on the second counter in letters 1 foot high to be enclosed in a compartment.
 
The order was amended in 1772 whereby the letters were to be as large as the counter would allow, without the compartment.
 Not all Admirals agreed with having the names on their ships, and I suspect there was a period when both forms or none could be found on British ships.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Hi JP, regardless of any historical accuracy aspects, I don't like those brass etched letters which themselves are not correct as raised lettering was not used on British ships of the period; the names were painted on. Initially set in compartments (as shown on old photos of Victory) and  then as large as the counter would allow ( as currently shown on Victory.)
 
Personally I think white painted names do not suit period models, and the kit provided style is too modern. Don't seem to recall seeing any contemporary models with white lettering, I think the model of Bellona in the NMM indicates the style perfectly.
 
I tend to use dry transfer rub on lettering on my models which have a more 18th century look about them.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Hi JP, regardless of any historical accuracy aspects, I don't like those brass etched letters which themselves are not correct as raised lettering was not used on British ships of the period; the names were painted on. Initially set in compartments (as shown on old photos of Victory) and  then as large as the counter would allow ( as currently shown on Victory.)
 
Personally I think white painted names do not suit period models, and the kit provided style is too modern. Don't seem to recall seeing any contemporary models with white lettering, I think the model of Bellona in the NMM indicates the style perfectly.
 
I tend to use dry transfer rub on lettering on my models which have a more 18th century look about them.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Hi Mike, I only removed the three waist extensions once the outer planking had been completed. I did partly cut thro' the pieces from outboard before planking and I added a strip of double sided tape to the outer face of the extension pieces.
  With the aid of a veneer saw it was then easy to remove them cleanly and without splintering.   I left the final deck planking runs until this had been done. Veneer saws are a very handy tool for this job.   Cheers,   B.E.

Hi JP, regardless of any historical accuracy aspects, I don't like those brass etched letters which themselves are not correct as raised lettering was not used on British ships of the period; the names were painted on. Initially set in compartments (as shown on old photos of Victory) and  then as large as the counter would allow ( as currently shown on Victory.)
 
Personally I think white painted names do not suit period models, and the kit provided style is too modern. Don't seem to recall seeing any contemporary models with white lettering, I think the model of Bellona in the NMM indicates the style perfectly.
 
I tend to use dry transfer rub on lettering on my models which have a more 18th century look about them.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Wonderful fine work Grant, I think your future is as a miniaturist
 
B.E.

Hi Mike, I only removed the three waist extensions once the outer planking had been completed. I did partly cut thro' the pieces from outboard before planking and I added a strip of double sided tape to the outer face of the extension pieces.
  With the aid of a veneer saw it was then easy to remove them cleanly and without splintering.   I left the final deck planking runs until this had been done. Veneer saws are a very handy tool for this job.   Cheers,   B.E.

Those pins are a much better option Evan, will make the task of belaying  easier and neater.
 
Cheers,
 
M.

That's a great finish you're achieving on your build Michael, very nice work indeed.
 
B.E.

Here are some full pictures with the deck furniture in place (dry fitted only).
 

 

 

 

 

 
edit: oops I think the pump handles need to angle forward 

Your decision is to be admired Grant, I know the time and effort it takes to scratch these small boats and appreciate the frustration when after hours of work you realise you're never going to be satisfied with the result.
 
Your Pinnace is a little gem, and I know you'll get there with the cutters.
 
B.E.

Thanks very much for the kind comments Sherry, JesseLee, Ben, Bindy, Mark, John, Keith and Mike.  And thanks again to all of the "likes".
 
Ship's Boats continued....
 
This weekend I tackled the task of making Oarlocks and Splashboards for the Pinnace.  The oarlocks were quite tricky.  I started with a strip of 3/64" sq Boxwood stock, into which I cut a 1/64" rebate, about 1/64" deep using the Brynes saw  :
 

 
Then I made up a simple jig to use on the Byrnes saw that would enable me to cut a tenon-like leg for each of the oarlocks before separating it by hand from the main stock.  Here's what they look like before cleaning up:
 

 
These were then installed into the Caprail and 1/64" x 1/16" Boxwood strips added for the washboards.  I decided to make the bow washboards one continuous strip that was bent around the bow after soaking, and once dry the underside was sanded and shaped to fit the shape of the sheer line.  On the real thing, all of the washboards apart from the bow and aft-most ones were removable.  I decided to glue mine all in so that they didn't accidentally remove themselves later on.    Here they are in place:
 

 
I should perhaps have painted all of these parts before installing them, but I was worried that the paint would clog up the channels in the oarlocks and make the washboards too hard to fit.  So, I had to paint them in situ.  I also decided that I wasn't completely happy with the seat back I had made for the Sternsheets (the proportions looked wrong to me), so I decided to make another one.
 
Here are a few pictures of the completed Pinnace (I don't intend to make oars or rudder).  To continue my experimentation with photography, this time I've use a mid-blue background so that the black-painted parts don't get lost.
 

 

 

 
Next up, back to the Cutters........

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Very nice work Eamonn, she's looking excellent.
 
Had one of those OMG moments with a clamp the other day, such relief when a nano second later you realise it hasn't been completely trashed.
 
B.E.

Hi Again Folks... It's Photo Time Again.
 
The wee doghouse is almost finished, just a little tidying up to be done, oh and attach the doors of course (not forgetting the various handles too)
The rope hand rail ring (where it attaches to the sides of the doghouse will be painted black.. they were painted black to begin with but it seems to have rubbed off in the fitting process !!
The steps are glued in place but no other deck fitting is permanently in place as yet (I threw in a close up photo of the 'L' shaped Anchor Rope reinforcing brackets on the forward hatch coaming)
 
By The Way I had one of those slow motion 'NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO' moments earlier as I was gluing the roof arrangement onto the Doghouse.. Clamps were being used to secure the whole affair when suddenly a clamp slipped causing the near total collapse of the doghouse.. there were doghouse sides, sliding roofs, rope hand rails & coamings flying through the air just like Cirque du Soleil !! How I kept my cool I'll never know ^_^ I just calmly reassembled the whole thing.. very Zen moment
 
Stay Well Folks
 
Eamonn a.k.a. Mr. Keep Calm & Carry On..

Bulkhead fittings looking good Martin, but Bounce does look a tad disappointed, needs cheering up with a treat I think.
 
B.E.

Great idea to produce the Hammocks Nils, like the colour of them.
 
B.E.

Build log part 50
 
 
 
doing the folded and tied hammocks for the netting, after blackening the brass mesh and fastening it onto the hammock cranes Here starboard side, port side and QD ballustrade still to be done in the same way
 
I did several Trials first until this version was given the go...
 
 
 

use ordenary parcel wrapping paper with a light structure in the paper in length direction (resembles the rather much worn / greasy Color of the mens canvas bedding. All rolled up over a 2mm drill
 

the dark lines resemble the tie bounds of the hammock
 

1 mm drill used at the inner side for folding Support (two equal long parts)
 

mini laundry clampers hold the folded part
 

the folded "hammock" is supported with a drop of PA glue (till dry), so there will be no extra spreadwise stress on the netting
 

view from outside
 

view towards the bulwark
 
 
 
 
Nils

Build log part 49
 
 
 
 
 

Aft view Quarterdeck
 

 
 

view Forecastle deck
 

Midship
 

all three decks
 

headrails and anchor fishing pulley mounted
 

 
 

cranes for hammock netting fitted to waist bulwarks and QD ballustrade
 

stanchions and security chain on stepover area
 

found some nice 0,2mm etched brass material for nettings ( will still be chemicaly blackend)
 
 
 
 
Build log part 50 to follow....
 
 
nuils

I don't think you will go far wrong trying to emulate the look of your top option Mike.
 
I like your thinking in these early stages of your project.
 
B.E.

I don't think you will go far wrong trying to emulate the look of your top option Mike.
 
I like your thinking in these early stages of your project.
 
B.E.

Gorgeous is the word Mike, I really must get around to having my copy framed.
 
Although what appears on plans as decoration is not necessarily translated into actual work on the ship, the Navy Board were notoriously stingy when it came to paying for such items, at least it makes sense in relation to the named ship.
 
Representations of Medusa, Perseus, and the watery kingdom of Poseidon are what you would expect to find. Those 'norman' knights on the kit stern still irk me and if I can work up the courage I may yet cut them out and replace them with something more appropriate.
 
B.E.

It will come as no suprise to anyone who has been looking in on my log that i have changed my mind again  .I had one side of the hull close to completion and when i started the other side . {i still don,t know my port from my starport } i thought i would try something different as the timbers between the wales were put on first and so didn,t run in line with them . I used maple the same as the decking and thought why not try caulking the same as the deck and was pleasantly suprised with the effect  .It may not be everyones taste but i think it gives a very solid look to the hull . my caulking leaves a lot to be desired but it,s the best i can do at present ,of -course once i was finished to-day i read Nigel,s article on using black tissue paper but will still give it a try when redoing the other side   . One thing i have learned is to be more carefull about  choosing timber , the variations in color when varnished caught me out ,even the maple has different grains and the two sides of the plank can look completely different  . I had thought originally that this might add to the look but now im not so sure . will be more carefull next time  I look forward to any comment s but i can assure you i will not be re planking again ,there are some parts of my hull now over 6mm thick and apart from that i must try to move on to the next stage or i,ll be at this build for ever  . Continuing good weather leaves little build time at present , i,m a ploughman by day and a trainee shipwright by nite  Here come the pic,s and don,t hold back on the opinions im a big boy i can take it Have Fun !!
 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 
 
 
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