Blue Ensign

starting to shape up

Keith,
 
You must also visit B.E.'s Pegasus above and beyond being an art piece, his skills with the Proxxon mill are so excellent. Great teacher.
 
Michael

Part two of the hull's new trim piece installation.
 
Thanks to all of you for just looking in, posting, or clicking "like". So nice, works as a substantial catalyst for improving skills as well as collectively developing some very nice Internet friends in the process. As we all do, I also find a lot of pleasure, and learning by visiting other builder's logs. Ok...
 
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Having grooved, sanded, shaped, and painted the two strips I had to decide how to properly install them. My first thought was just to overlay them above the existing planking, and cut them in several places during installation as they butted up against some of the cannon decorative rings.
 
But that was too risky because the slight but continuous curve from stern to bow would be lost at the artificial cuts. And at the areas that would only require a slight curved trim removal to allow space for the cannon rings might just crack or break the strip during the install.
 
So, I removed the cannon ring decorations, and then cut out and removed one row of existing side planking allowing for a seamless install of the new trim in one piece bow to stern.
 
I first measured and cut a piece of wood to make sure that the gap spacing was correct and that the new strips would run evenly parallel above the existing larger longitudinal hull timbers.
 
I then decided that glue was not required but merely used small brass nails. Started at the stern, with the trim in place drilled holes trough the trim and into the hull. As I went along I pushed in the nails allowing for an easy way to keep the intended curve; so far so good.
 
 You might note that the nails were installed at and through the weather deck vertical cannon frames. Two reasons; 1) it allowed for more depth for the nails, and during the next step (cutouts) the strips should stay secure and not loose their slight curve even with out glue.
 
Next will be the cutouts, and trim gap spaces for the cannon rings. That will certainly cause some stress. Any big error and I'll have to go back to the Proxxon and start all over again. Not news to many of us, I'm sure (starting again that is) I'll post when completed.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
PS: Edit pics loaded all out of order again, but easy to figure out. Hmmm

Continuing...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
She will now take her place in the Dining Room to compliment the Naval cutter model that I bashed quite some time ago.
 

They are a good match I think, and more importantly have the full approval of Mrs W
 
Specific reference works I have used during this build I list here.
 
The Naval Cutter Alert -  Peter Goodwin  (Conway AotS series)
 
The Global schooner - KH Mardquardt
 
The Colonial Schooner - H. Hahn.
 
Rigging Fore and Aft Craft - Lennarth Petersson
 
News of Nelson John Lapenotiere's race from Trafalgar to London  - Derek Allen and Peter Hore
 
My thanks to all who have  made such supportive comments on this log which I hope will provide a useful reference to those contemplating the build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 

Completion Photos
 
This post concludes my log of a nine month build.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
More to follow
 
B.E.

Hi everyone,
 
This weekend, I pushed along to finish the aft end of the gundeck (all but ledges). The first photo shows using a caul shaped to the fore and aft camber of the gundeck, which I used to level the beams as I glued them in place. Clamping the beams up to the caul ensured that they are all precisely level on the upper surface, where it counts.
 
I then worked on the carlings. I found an easy way to measure the angle of the end of each carling in a beam, with an angle gauge. i could then use the gauge to set the angle of the miter gauge on the sanding machine, for precise results, and flip it over to reverse the miter gauge and sand the symmetrically opposite carling in the same bay. Systematically working aft and from outboard to the center, I got them all done in a day. I still need to cut mortises for ledges in the carlings before they can be glued. I got progressively better at this as I worked along. The carling fair well fore and aft, with only one joint needing a slight adjustment from my original mortise cuts.
 
I also built the mizen mast core in anticipation of building the partners, and found an easy way to set the diameters at the 4 quarters, using a proportional divider set to two divisions. I set the long legs on the ruler for the total diameter at any point, and then used the short legs to mark off either side of the center line. It saved a lot of time.
 
I made the fore and aft standard fitting up against the wing transom and stern post. It took some fiddling to match angles and cut the slot for the wing transom. But very satisfying after all of these years to see that finishing up the aft deck. You can see on the starboard side of the aft gun deck, my first efforts at working out how a knee would finish up the deck at the rounded aft end. I have no drawings that show what this knee would look like but there has to be one to provide a landing for decking in the corner, before the decking can land on the deck transom. I can't believe that the decking would just land on the inner side of the aftmost frames with no support under it. Does anyone recall seeing a drawing of what happens here?
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

A little update on the head rails: I started with the middle rails as they seem to be the most challenging parts and I wanted to get them out of the way before Christmas. Like the cheeks I made them out of pear wood. Image 1 shows the assembled starboard rail including the hanging knee. To get the right shape I fitted the 3 pieces of the middle rail together as they were temporarily mounted on the hull, but I removed the piece as a whole for the final finishing. Images 2, 3, and 4 show the permanently mounted middle rails from different angles. Image 5 shows a prototype of the upper rail. The final candidate will have the upper end of the molding ending a bit further down to be better in sync with the middle rails.
 

Image 1: Starboard middle rail 
 
 

Image 2: Starboard middle rail
 
 

Image 3: Mounted middle rails
 
 

Image 4: Mounted middle rails
 
 

Image 5: Prototype of upper rail
 
 

I have now completed one side of the inner bulwark planking. To begin with, I added some filler pieces to the edge of the false deck to cover up the sizing errors. I used material from the laser cut sheet from which the deck had come. After that, I cut, and bent as necessary, boxwood planks for the spirketting below the gun ports and installed them. Following that, I made up three plank units of boxwood to fit between the gun ports for the quickwork and installed them. Lastly, I did the boxwood planks for the waist, forecastle and quarterdeck clamps. Planking of the forecastle and quarterdeck bulwarks will be left until the framing for those decks is installed later.
 
All of the planking has caulking simulated with pencil on one edge and one end of each plank. I did not do any treenailing since I expect to plank this side of the upper decks and such work will be totally invisible. The caulking was done out of force of habit, although it too will not be seen. I finished the work with a coat of Wipe-on Poly.
 
I'm now starting on the other side, which will be at least partly visible after the upper deck framing and planking.
 
Bob

Thanks, Hamilton. I really had been hoping for others to do the build at the same time so that we could help push each other along. Having said that, Terry I think you made the right choice. Good luck with the Emma.
 
The bulwark planking on the port side is now done. Everything was done the same as on the other side. As usual, having done it once made the second effort go a little quicker and easier, though I have to admit that knowing that more of it would remain visible probably made me a bit more careful this time.
 
My plan is to now do the stern windows and finish the outer stern planking, and then do the inner stern planking and cabinetry. That will be followed by the gun deck planking. 
 
Bob

Hi everyone,
 
Well this update makes me very happy. It highlights my first attempt at using the Proxxon MF 70.
 
Challenge: As noted in the just previous post, I did not add two long trim pieces that would then secure the mizzen mast chainplates on each side of the hull just above the lower galleries.  The first two pics of the 1/10th(yellow trims) highlight what I need to accomplish.
 
The big conundrum was how could I add the grooves that run along those two pieces using the MF 70. The pics below illustrate my solution.
 
I used a balsa block as a guide for the strips. Balsa seemed the best because I could run a very tight groove as the two strips were being pulled through, and the balsa would "give a little" but keep the strips straight. 
 
I then cut another wider upper gap trench in the balsa block favoring one side because when I would run the strips through, the needed groove was not in the center. You can note this in the 1/10th pics.
 
After attaching the groove bit, I tried a couple of sample strips. Didn't want to go too deep and then end up cracking the trim pieces, as they will need to be bend slightly to follow along the hull lines.
 
Well I'm really happy about how this turned out. This MF 70 will be a huge asset for improving my skills. I'm also super happy with how tight the Proxxon tolerances are; very slight two or three millimeter adjustments in the X Y Z axis created adjustments just where I wanted the bit to bite. Five stars for this tool.
 
Now a bit more detailing, sanding, adding nail holes, painting and installing the strips, and I can move forward with part two of the chainplates.
 
A bit wordy, this post, but I'm like a child with a new toy. (:-) This first use of the tool was very basic, but swimming always starts at the shallow end. Thanks for looking in.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Nigel,
 
Thanks, so nice of you to look back in for a response. I have decided to add the two missing longitudinal planks. For the fix I also want to also try out the milling tool,
 
I just need to figure out how to brace long thin strips of wood to add a groove to the two long trim pieces (see pic below). The idea is to emulate the 1/10th. That yellow piece in the pic is what I would like it to look like. 
 
However the trim pieces are only 3 mm wide, and some 50 mm long,  so my lack of any skills with this new mill may cause a bit of frustration. Alternatively I will just forgo the grooves.
 
Regards,
 
 
Michael

Hi Everyone,
 
revised posting  from yesterday's 
 
Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations.
 
Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error.
 
The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix.
 
Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi Jason, nice work on that serving and stropping.
 
The Burton Pendants were important bits of kit used to attach tackles for heavy lifting and ideally they should go over the masthead before the shrouds are rigged.
 
As far as gluing the masts in place I tend to only apply a small smear of glue, which is good enough to hold in normal handling but in the event of a catastrophe I can ultimately twist them out. This has happened to me in the past.
 
As far as bunt and leech line blocks are concerned either on the yard or as feeds beneath the top for the lines, my view is even without sails they should be fitted, even if the actual lines are omitted.
 
A lot of the running rigging was taken down with the sails, but for those to wish to show it a common practice is to knot the bunts and leech lines which would otherwise be attached to the sail cringles, where they pass thro' the yard blocks and then having passed thro' the feed blocks belay them at the  appropriate point.
 
That's what I intend to do on my Pegasus.
 
I can relate to what you say about becoming obsessive about the rigging detail I seem to be sucumbing to that somewhat as well.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Hi Jason, nice work on that serving and stropping.
 
The Burton Pendants were important bits of kit used to attach tackles for heavy lifting and ideally they should go over the masthead before the shrouds are rigged.
 
As far as gluing the masts in place I tend to only apply a small smear of glue, which is good enough to hold in normal handling but in the event of a catastrophe I can ultimately twist them out. This has happened to me in the past.
 
As far as bunt and leech line blocks are concerned either on the yard or as feeds beneath the top for the lines, my view is even without sails they should be fitted, even if the actual lines are omitted.
 
A lot of the running rigging was taken down with the sails, but for those to wish to show it a common practice is to knot the bunts and leech lines which would otherwise be attached to the sail cringles, where they pass thro' the yard blocks and then having passed thro' the feed blocks belay them at the  appropriate point.
 
That's what I intend to do on my Pegasus.
 
I can relate to what you say about becoming obsessive about the rigging detail I seem to be sucumbing to that somewhat as well.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Hi Jason, nice work on that serving and stropping.
 
The Burton Pendants were important bits of kit used to attach tackles for heavy lifting and ideally they should go over the masthead before the shrouds are rigged.
 
As far as gluing the masts in place I tend to only apply a small smear of glue, which is good enough to hold in normal handling but in the event of a catastrophe I can ultimately twist them out. This has happened to me in the past.
 
As far as bunt and leech line blocks are concerned either on the yard or as feeds beneath the top for the lines, my view is even without sails they should be fitted, even if the actual lines are omitted.
 
A lot of the running rigging was taken down with the sails, but for those to wish to show it a common practice is to knot the bunts and leech lines which would otherwise be attached to the sail cringles, where they pass thro' the yard blocks and then having passed thro' the feed blocks belay them at the  appropriate point.
 
That's what I intend to do on my Pegasus.
 
I can relate to what you say about becoming obsessive about the rigging detail I seem to be sucumbing to that somewhat as well.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

I need to ask some questions, sorry for length and diversity. 
In my previous post I'd fitted the blocks for the spritsail topsail brace, which are the only blocks called for in the instructions/plans.  Looking over Petersson it seems that there should be quite a few more, specifically for the buntlines and leechlines. My conundrum - do the plans overlook these or is there some reason why these would not be present on a smaller ship like Snake (seems unlikely)?  As I'm probably not going to put sails on this one, is there justification for leaving these off, I'd like to avoid the rework if possible. I note that Petersson references Burton Pendants on each mast, again these are not mentioned in the kit instructions.  Would these also need to be added for basic accuracy? I've seen it recommended that masts should not be glued in place as the shrouds will keep them position, but not quite sure why gluing is a bad idea.  I have quite a bit of side to side movement on the foremast because of the way the hole in the deck ended up.   
Couple of update pics on blocks to go into .  I seem to be becoming a little obsessed with the rigging which I need to stop if I want to finish this!  Blocks rigged for the main topmast stay and preventer stay.  I served the stropping for the preventer stay (per Lever) which was a pretty time consuming and very fiddly exercise but I was pleased with the result in the end.  Will need to go through this a few more times for the main stay and preventer stay.  Also made up the  mizzen deadeye for the mainmast. 
 
Preventer stay


Mizzen stay deadeye per Lever

 

That’s a given Danny, I was obviously referring to the open ports, which on the model are the ‘show’ ports.
 
The question of 'run in' and secured or secured 'side on' is interesting given the small space on a Swan, particularly in relation to those adjacent to the Galley Stove and those within the partitioned Captains bed space and Coach. The latter is not an issue with Kingfisher and other 14 gunners as the ports did not house a gun.
 
B.E.

Love everything about your work Ron
 
B.E.

I got my replacements from RB Models.
 
Here's their website and also one for Radek ship models.
 
http://www.rbmodel.com/index.php?action=products&group=011
 
http://www.radekshipmodels.cz/en/list-of-kits-and-accessories/accessory---armoury
 
When you've worked out the scale length of your guns, you might just find suitable replacements.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Hi Jason,
 
My approach will be to fit the lower masts and then the shrouds before I add the topmasts and caps. I will make a 'mock up' of the Masthead on which to form the shrouds, and then transfer them to the actual model, less tiring that way.
 
I would leave the  Mast top rails until much later, on many models there are lines that have to be worked around the tops, or even belayed there, and those rails tend to be fairly fragile.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

I got my replacements from RB Models.
 
Here's their website and also one for Radek ship models.
 
http://www.rbmodel.com/index.php?action=products&group=011
 
http://www.radekshipmodels.cz/en/list-of-kits-and-accessories/accessory---armoury
 
When you've worked out the scale length of your guns, you might just find suitable replacements.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Beautiful work on the head Matti
 
if you can work out the scale length of the guns you may find some aftermarket brass ones that would suit, or be close enough.
 
That's what I did for the replacement guns on Pegasus as the supplied originals were much too big.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Hello Dave and Popeye,   I just thought I would share with you what I decided to do.  I have been researching this for some time now knowing what I was instore for.  I've looked at the Evergreen bricks, model railroad bricks and several others.  None would be right especiall in scale and effect.  So I decided to make my own bricks and lay them like real ones.  I've done this in real life before, and surprised myself.  That's what I mean about different hats depending on the job.  So I build the framework, cut about 300 bricks from 1mm x 2 mm stock at 5mm lengths using a jig and my Amati Chopper.  Then using a Miller Lite box, I cut thin strips of cardboard to use for mortar.  It is .65mm thick.  I will then fill in the areas between the brick ends to create the affect I want.  I'll then paint the mortar areas white, and then the bricks I'll paint a flat red.  I'm using copper strip to frame the doors, and I'll construct the cooktop from copper sheet.  Here's how it looks right now as I build the brick oven.  Thanks for all your suggestions, I greatly appreciate it.  This is probably just an area you just have to make from scratch......hmmm, I hate to use that word around here..... 

Still a couple of more to show progess

and the up to date ones