Blue Ensign

Post Twelve
Time to fit the thwarts.

9513
There is a natural spring in the unit which resists the sheer of the barge. To this end the unit is weighted into place and heat treated to follow the sheer.

9516
Ca is applied to the pillar tops and pva to the thwart ends.
The sheer is evident in this photo.

9517

9518
With the thwarts firmly in position the next stage can begin.

9519

9521
Wood strips are fitted between the thwarts this will form the lower element of the panelling.

9522
A card template is used to get the shape of the upper panelling.

9523
With a coat of paint applied I can get a good impression of how the finished boat will look.

9525
Sadly, I don’t like what I see.

9529
That Fore deck position looks so out of kilter with the elegance of a barge, I don’t think I can live with it.
The only option is to de-construct the bow area at the risk of destroying the model, but I would otherwise waste no more time on it.
If I’m going to do it, it needs to be done before I add the linings, now where did I put that Dremel.
 
 
B.E.
23/11/2022

 

Post 13.
De-construction begins.
Removing the wash boards and platform is the easy bit.

9531
I used a combination of scalpel, micro chisels, and etched saw blades to slowly pare away the first two bulkheads.

9538
I reduced the height of the bulkheads to a fraction above the line of the central thwart dividing plank.

9540(2)

9542(2)
The job went better than I imagined, there was a slight breakaway of the planking at the bow, but the planks remained glued to each other, and a spot of ca resolved the problem.

9545
With the lowered foredeck, the barge now better reflects the elegant lines typical of the type, and I’m far happier already.

9553

9554

9557
I’m not out of the woods yet, there is the internal lining to fit, followed by the decorative panels, but at least I now feel I can continue with the build.
 
B.E.
24/11/2022
 

Post Twelve
Time to fit the thwarts.

9513
There is a natural spring in the unit which resists the sheer of the barge. To this end the unit is weighted into place and heat treated to follow the sheer.

9516
Ca is applied to the pillar tops and pva to the thwart ends.
The sheer is evident in this photo.

9517

9518
With the thwarts firmly in position the next stage can begin.

9519

9521
Wood strips are fitted between the thwarts this will form the lower element of the panelling.

9522
A card template is used to get the shape of the upper panelling.

9523
With a coat of paint applied I can get a good impression of how the finished boat will look.

9525
Sadly, I don’t like what I see.

9529
That Fore deck position looks so out of kilter with the elegance of a barge, I don’t think I can live with it.
The only option is to de-construct the bow area at the risk of destroying the model, but I would otherwise waste no more time on it.
If I’m going to do it, it needs to be done before I add the linings, now where did I put that Dremel.
 
 
B.E.
23/11/2022

 

Well Yves, a case of monkey see, monkey do.
 
I thought if it was good enough for a guy who was around at the time (1750) to show it, it was good enough for me.

 
The black and white schematic was a traditional thing to be found everywhere in the flooring from stately homes, to cathedrals, to 1950's kitchens in the form of lino.
In naval circles it probably just followed fashion of the time, except it was merely painted sailcloth, anything else would be considered extravagant.
 
The French on the other hand, more conscious of creature comforts preferred parquet flooring in their great cabins, perfect for unlaying by carronade.
They even had separate Bread Ovens; can you imagine!
 
The British were, and are, more conservative, and their lordships of the Admiralty had an aversion to anything 'frenchified' despite having pinched the designs of their Seventy-four gun ships, and finally being seduced by the epaulette, that most French of French adornments.
 
A brief potted history, not entirely tongue-in-cheek😉
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Post 13.
De-construction begins.
Removing the wash boards and platform is the easy bit.

9531
I used a combination of scalpel, micro chisels, and etched saw blades to slowly pare away the first two bulkheads.

9538
I reduced the height of the bulkheads to a fraction above the line of the central thwart dividing plank.

9540(2)

9542(2)
The job went better than I imagined, there was a slight breakaway of the planking at the bow, but the planks remained glued to each other, and a spot of ca resolved the problem.

9545
With the lowered foredeck, the barge now better reflects the elegant lines typical of the type, and I’m far happier already.

9553

9554

9557
I’m not out of the woods yet, there is the internal lining to fit, followed by the decorative panels, but at least I now feel I can continue with the build.
 
B.E.
24/11/2022
 

Post 13.
De-construction begins.
Removing the wash boards and platform is the easy bit.

9531
I used a combination of scalpel, micro chisels, and etched saw blades to slowly pare away the first two bulkheads.

9538
I reduced the height of the bulkheads to a fraction above the line of the central thwart dividing plank.

9540(2)

9542(2)
The job went better than I imagined, there was a slight breakaway of the planking at the bow, but the planks remained glued to each other, and a spot of ca resolved the problem.

9545
With the lowered foredeck, the barge now better reflects the elegant lines typical of the type, and I’m far happier already.

9553

9554

9557
I’m not out of the woods yet, there is the internal lining to fit, followed by the decorative panels, but at least I now feel I can continue with the build.
 
B.E.
24/11/2022
 

Post 13.
De-construction begins.
Removing the wash boards and platform is the easy bit.

9531
I used a combination of scalpel, micro chisels, and etched saw blades to slowly pare away the first two bulkheads.

9538
I reduced the height of the bulkheads to a fraction above the line of the central thwart dividing plank.

9540(2)

9542(2)
The job went better than I imagined, there was a slight breakaway of the planking at the bow, but the planks remained glued to each other, and a spot of ca resolved the problem.

9545
With the lowered foredeck, the barge now better reflects the elegant lines typical of the type, and I’m far happier already.

9553

9554

9557
I’m not out of the woods yet, there is the internal lining to fit, followed by the decorative panels, but at least I now feel I can continue with the build.
 
B.E.
24/11/2022
 

Post 13.
De-construction begins.
Removing the wash boards and platform is the easy bit.

9531
I used a combination of scalpel, micro chisels, and etched saw blades to slowly pare away the first two bulkheads.

9538
I reduced the height of the bulkheads to a fraction above the line of the central thwart dividing plank.

9540(2)

9542(2)
The job went better than I imagined, there was a slight breakaway of the planking at the bow, but the planks remained glued to each other, and a spot of ca resolved the problem.

9545
With the lowered foredeck, the barge now better reflects the elegant lines typical of the type, and I’m far happier already.

9553

9554

9557
I’m not out of the woods yet, there is the internal lining to fit, followed by the decorative panels, but at least I now feel I can continue with the build.
 
B.E.
24/11/2022
 

Better to make it right for yourself rather than live and suffer with it. I’ll take the bin over constant frustration any day!

Hi Jason,
 
I get them from a company called Modelu.
Modelu – Finescale Figures (modelu3d.co.uk)
 
They do them in various scales and I bought them originally for my 1:64 Fishing boat kits.
Unfortunately, they don't do 18th c period naval figures, but they now do a range of fishing boat crew figures.
 
Scale figures in various poses are useful for comparison purposes, it is a pity no one does seated rowers, I could do with around a dozen if the barge ever gets completed.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

Post Twelve
Time to fit the thwarts.

9513
There is a natural spring in the unit which resists the sheer of the barge. To this end the unit is weighted into place and heat treated to follow the sheer.

9516
Ca is applied to the pillar tops and pva to the thwart ends.
The sheer is evident in this photo.

9517

9518
With the thwarts firmly in position the next stage can begin.

9519

9521
Wood strips are fitted between the thwarts this will form the lower element of the panelling.

9522
A card template is used to get the shape of the upper panelling.

9523
With a coat of paint applied I can get a good impression of how the finished boat will look.

9525
Sadly, I don’t like what I see.

9529
That Fore deck position looks so out of kilter with the elegance of a barge, I don’t think I can live with it.
The only option is to de-construct the bow area at the risk of destroying the model, but I would otherwise waste no more time on it.
If I’m going to do it, it needs to be done before I add the linings, now where did I put that Dremel.
 
 
B.E.
23/11/2022

 

Post Twelve
Time to fit the thwarts.

9513
There is a natural spring in the unit which resists the sheer of the barge. To this end the unit is weighted into place and heat treated to follow the sheer.

9516
Ca is applied to the pillar tops and pva to the thwart ends.
The sheer is evident in this photo.

9517

9518
With the thwarts firmly in position the next stage can begin.

9519

9521
Wood strips are fitted between the thwarts this will form the lower element of the panelling.

9522
A card template is used to get the shape of the upper panelling.

9523
With a coat of paint applied I can get a good impression of how the finished boat will look.

9525
Sadly, I don’t like what I see.

9529
That Fore deck position looks so out of kilter with the elegance of a barge, I don’t think I can live with it.
The only option is to de-construct the bow area at the risk of destroying the model, but I would otherwise waste no more time on it.
If I’m going to do it, it needs to be done before I add the linings, now where did I put that Dremel.
 
 
B.E.
23/11/2022

 

Post Twelve
Time to fit the thwarts.

9513
There is a natural spring in the unit which resists the sheer of the barge. To this end the unit is weighted into place and heat treated to follow the sheer.

9516
Ca is applied to the pillar tops and pva to the thwart ends.
The sheer is evident in this photo.

9517

9518
With the thwarts firmly in position the next stage can begin.

9519

9521
Wood strips are fitted between the thwarts this will form the lower element of the panelling.

9522
A card template is used to get the shape of the upper panelling.

9523
With a coat of paint applied I can get a good impression of how the finished boat will look.

9525
Sadly, I don’t like what I see.

9529
That Fore deck position looks so out of kilter with the elegance of a barge, I don’t think I can live with it.
The only option is to de-construct the bow area at the risk of destroying the model, but I would otherwise waste no more time on it.
If I’m going to do it, it needs to be done before I add the linings, now where did I put that Dremel.
 
 
B.E.
23/11/2022

 

Hi Jason,
 
I get them from a company called Modelu.
Modelu – Finescale Figures (modelu3d.co.uk)
 
They do them in various scales and I bought them originally for my 1:64 Fishing boat kits.
Unfortunately, they don't do 18th c period naval figures, but they now do a range of fishing boat crew figures.
 
Scale figures in various poses are useful for comparison purposes, it is a pity no one does seated rowers, I could do with around a dozen if the barge ever gets completed.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

Post Twelve
Time to fit the thwarts.

9513
There is a natural spring in the unit which resists the sheer of the barge. To this end the unit is weighted into place and heat treated to follow the sheer.

9516
Ca is applied to the pillar tops and pva to the thwart ends.
The sheer is evident in this photo.

9517

9518
With the thwarts firmly in position the next stage can begin.

9519

9521
Wood strips are fitted between the thwarts this will form the lower element of the panelling.

9522
A card template is used to get the shape of the upper panelling.

9523
With a coat of paint applied I can get a good impression of how the finished boat will look.

9525
Sadly, I don’t like what I see.

9529
That Fore deck position looks so out of kilter with the elegance of a barge, I don’t think I can live with it.
The only option is to de-construct the bow area at the risk of destroying the model, but I would otherwise waste no more time on it.
If I’m going to do it, it needs to be done before I add the linings, now where did I put that Dremel.
 
 
B.E.
23/11/2022

 

Post Twelve
Time to fit the thwarts.

9513
There is a natural spring in the unit which resists the sheer of the barge. To this end the unit is weighted into place and heat treated to follow the sheer.

9516
Ca is applied to the pillar tops and pva to the thwart ends.
The sheer is evident in this photo.

9517

9518
With the thwarts firmly in position the next stage can begin.

9519

9521
Wood strips are fitted between the thwarts this will form the lower element of the panelling.

9522
A card template is used to get the shape of the upper panelling.

9523
With a coat of paint applied I can get a good impression of how the finished boat will look.

9525
Sadly, I don’t like what I see.

9529
That Fore deck position looks so out of kilter with the elegance of a barge, I don’t think I can live with it.
The only option is to de-construct the bow area at the risk of destroying the model, but I would otherwise waste no more time on it.
If I’m going to do it, it needs to be done before I add the linings, now where did I put that Dremel.
 
 
B.E.
23/11/2022

 

Post Twelve
Time to fit the thwarts.

9513
There is a natural spring in the unit which resists the sheer of the barge. To this end the unit is weighted into place and heat treated to follow the sheer.

9516
Ca is applied to the pillar tops and pva to the thwart ends.
The sheer is evident in this photo.

9517

9518
With the thwarts firmly in position the next stage can begin.

9519

9521
Wood strips are fitted between the thwarts this will form the lower element of the panelling.

9522
A card template is used to get the shape of the upper panelling.

9523
With a coat of paint applied I can get a good impression of how the finished boat will look.

9525
Sadly, I don’t like what I see.

9529
That Fore deck position looks so out of kilter with the elegance of a barge, I don’t think I can live with it.
The only option is to de-construct the bow area at the risk of destroying the model, but I would otherwise waste no more time on it.
If I’m going to do it, it needs to be done before I add the linings, now where did I put that Dremel.
 
 
B.E.
23/11/2022

 

Post Twelve
Time to fit the thwarts.

9513
There is a natural spring in the unit which resists the sheer of the barge. To this end the unit is weighted into place and heat treated to follow the sheer.

9516
Ca is applied to the pillar tops and pva to the thwart ends.
The sheer is evident in this photo.

9517

9518
With the thwarts firmly in position the next stage can begin.

9519

9521
Wood strips are fitted between the thwarts this will form the lower element of the panelling.

9522
A card template is used to get the shape of the upper panelling.

9523
With a coat of paint applied I can get a good impression of how the finished boat will look.

9525
Sadly, I don’t like what I see.

9529
That Fore deck position looks so out of kilter with the elegance of a barge, I don’t think I can live with it.
The only option is to de-construct the bow area at the risk of destroying the model, but I would otherwise waste no more time on it.
If I’m going to do it, it needs to be done before I add the linings, now where did I put that Dremel.
 
 
B.E.
23/11/2022

 

Post Twelve
Time to fit the thwarts.

9513
There is a natural spring in the unit which resists the sheer of the barge. To this end the unit is weighted into place and heat treated to follow the sheer.

9516
Ca is applied to the pillar tops and pva to the thwart ends.
The sheer is evident in this photo.

9517

9518
With the thwarts firmly in position the next stage can begin.

9519

9521
Wood strips are fitted between the thwarts this will form the lower element of the panelling.

9522
A card template is used to get the shape of the upper panelling.

9523
With a coat of paint applied I can get a good impression of how the finished boat will look.

9525
Sadly, I don’t like what I see.

9529
That Fore deck position looks so out of kilter with the elegance of a barge, I don’t think I can live with it.
The only option is to de-construct the bow area at the risk of destroying the model, but I would otherwise waste no more time on it.
If I’m going to do it, it needs to be done before I add the linings, now where did I put that Dremel.
 
 
B.E.
23/11/2022

 

Post Twelve
Time to fit the thwarts.

9513
There is a natural spring in the unit which resists the sheer of the barge. To this end the unit is weighted into place and heat treated to follow the sheer.

9516
Ca is applied to the pillar tops and pva to the thwart ends.
The sheer is evident in this photo.

9517

9518
With the thwarts firmly in position the next stage can begin.

9519

9521
Wood strips are fitted between the thwarts this will form the lower element of the panelling.

9522
A card template is used to get the shape of the upper panelling.

9523
With a coat of paint applied I can get a good impression of how the finished boat will look.

9525
Sadly, I don’t like what I see.

9529
That Fore deck position looks so out of kilter with the elegance of a barge, I don’t think I can live with it.
The only option is to de-construct the bow area at the risk of destroying the model, but I would otherwise waste no more time on it.
If I’m going to do it, it needs to be done before I add the linings, now where did I put that Dremel.
 
 
B.E.
23/11/2022

 

Post Twelve
Time to fit the thwarts.

9513
There is a natural spring in the unit which resists the sheer of the barge. To this end the unit is weighted into place and heat treated to follow the sheer.

9516
Ca is applied to the pillar tops and pva to the thwart ends.
The sheer is evident in this photo.

9517

9518
With the thwarts firmly in position the next stage can begin.

9519

9521
Wood strips are fitted between the thwarts this will form the lower element of the panelling.

9522
A card template is used to get the shape of the upper panelling.

9523
With a coat of paint applied I can get a good impression of how the finished boat will look.

9525
Sadly, I don’t like what I see.

9529
That Fore deck position looks so out of kilter with the elegance of a barge, I don’t think I can live with it.
The only option is to de-construct the bow area at the risk of destroying the model, but I would otherwise waste no more time on it.
If I’m going to do it, it needs to be done before I add the linings, now where did I put that Dremel.
 
 
B.E.
23/11/2022

 

Post Ten
Internal fittings are now removed for test fitting.
The thwarts are an integrated unit combining the central Longitudinal plank. This is typical of barges of this period.

9440
The stern benches are also a single unit that look to require only minimal adjustment to fit.
Before they are fitted the seat stanchions that run down the centre of the footwaling are required to be fitted.
 
Section 38 of the blurb refers to the fitting but does not mention that the stanchions are of brass etch.

9438
They are numbered sequentially on the blurb and a careful check of the etch shows that the ten stanchions are position specific, fore, and aft to accommodate the sheer.
They are not however, numbered as per Section 38 of the blurb.
 
 
The way the kit is set up the stanchions dictate the height of the thwarts, and the hull ribs will need reducing in height where they impact on the thwart ends.
I decided to use the etch supports partly because I felt they gave the best chance of getting the thwart height correct.
 

9467

9465
The biro gives the relative size of the barge.

9470
I was still keen to check that the thwart height was correct.

9469
Unlike the usual practice of risers along the internal hull to support the thwarts, this kit relies on the central columns and the ribs cut to suit for support.

9468
With the scale figures in place, I am pleased to see that the height is good. It is also clear why barges of this era were rowed single banked.
My use of ‘test’ thwarts has given me the line for the risers, and I don’t really understand why they haven’t been employed on this kit.

48Bb(2)
Once the thwarts and benches are in place small wooden block panels are fitted between the thwarts along hull.
 
This is a simplification of the proper arrangement, perhaps understandable given the scale, but it does look a tad unconvincing to my eye.
The inner hull should be lined over the ribs and decorative mouldings applied.
 
I have an idea of how to do this from my Model Shipways Pinnace build, but that was at 1:24 scale.
 
Before I admit abject defeat, I will have a play around and see what can be done.
 
B.E.
20/11/2022

 
 

Post Eleven
Fitting the thwart set as a unit presents some difficulties.
The unit must sit down on the central supports and the thwarts be trimmed uniformly on either side to sit squarely against the hull sides at the correct level.
My approach is to use individual thwart substitutes to determine the correct lengths and apply those to the unit.
The unit is then trimmed by degrees.
 
The stern sheets required careful sanding and bevelling mostly towards the stern, to seat fully down at the correct level.

9494
Once again, the dockyard workers were called into use to confirm the levels.

003
Many contemporary models show panelling below the benches.
Note also that the inside hull has been lined to below the thwarts.
 
I fancied replicating the look below the stern benches.
 
 
Great care must be taken in sanding and bevelling the thwart ends because the grain runs fore- aft making them prone to snapping if sanding is done other than with the grain.
I suggest the thwart is held between thumb and fore-finger as close to the end as possible during sanding.
Each thwart is progressively fitted until by applying light pressure on the central plank the unit sits down on the pillars without flexing the hull sides.
It is necessary to get the thwarts and seats dry fitted to satisfaction before moving on.
 
I glued the stern benches first but using the thwarts to ensure the levels met up.

9496(2)
Getting the thwarts to look right is a major aspect of small boat builds.

9499

9498
C’mon lads, break over, back to the job.
 
With the stern sheets glued into place I can turn my attention to the panelling below the benches.

9495
Forming the shape of Boxwood strip to fit.

9501
A lot of faffing around to get the panelling to fit, still ongoing at this point.

9506(2)

9509(2)

9510(2)
Before the stern-sheets can be completed I need to work out the panelling above the benches.
 
Onto the thwarts.
 
B.E.
22/11/2022

Post Twelve
Time to fit the thwarts.

9513
There is a natural spring in the unit which resists the sheer of the barge. To this end the unit is weighted into place and heat treated to follow the sheer.

9516
Ca is applied to the pillar tops and pva to the thwart ends.
The sheer is evident in this photo.

9517

9518
With the thwarts firmly in position the next stage can begin.

9519

9521
Wood strips are fitted between the thwarts this will form the lower element of the panelling.

9522
A card template is used to get the shape of the upper panelling.

9523
With a coat of paint applied I can get a good impression of how the finished boat will look.

9525
Sadly, I don’t like what I see.

9529
That Fore deck position looks so out of kilter with the elegance of a barge, I don’t think I can live with it.
The only option is to de-construct the bow area at the risk of destroying the model, but I would otherwise waste no more time on it.
If I’m going to do it, it needs to be done before I add the linings, now where did I put that Dremel.
 
 
B.E.
23/11/2022

 

Well Yves, a case of monkey see, monkey do.
 
I thought if it was good enough for a guy who was around at the time (1750) to show it, it was good enough for me.

 
The black and white schematic was a traditional thing to be found everywhere in the flooring from stately homes, to cathedrals, to 1950's kitchens in the form of lino.
In naval circles it probably just followed fashion of the time, except it was merely painted sailcloth, anything else would be considered extravagant.
 
The French on the other hand, more conscious of creature comforts preferred parquet flooring in their great cabins, perfect for unlaying by carronade.
They even had separate Bread Ovens; can you imagine!
 
The British were, and are, more conservative, and their lordships of the Admiralty had an aversion to anything 'frenchified' despite having pinched the designs of their Seventy-four gun ships, and finally being seduced by the epaulette, that most French of French adornments.
 
A brief potted history, not entirely tongue-in-cheek😉
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.