Blue Ensign

It is interesting how we tend to discover things from our photos that we don't pick at the building board.
You're doing a fine job B.E!
Good decision to go for the slimmer strake.
 
Keep it up!

Don't know the proper period name for the lower rail, but I think it became known as the 'rubbing strake' (a fender) for obvious reasons.
 
Another of your fine projects, Maurice; thanks once more for sharing.

Post Nine
At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.
The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.
To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

9434
The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

9450
A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

9452
The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

9449
I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

9446
With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.
The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.
 
B.E.
19/11/2022


 

Post Nine
At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.
The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.
To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

9434
The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

9450
A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

9452
The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

9449
I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

9446
With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.
The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.
 
B.E.
19/11/2022


 

Post Nine
At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.
The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.
To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

9434
The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

9450
A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

9452
The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

9449
I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

9446
With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.
The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.
 
B.E.
19/11/2022


 

Thank you, Yves, Jim, and Andy.
@ Andy, - good spot, but I was aware, it was easier to go with the grain for cutting out, and the deck is to be painted.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Post Nine
At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.
The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.
To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

9434
The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

9450
A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

9452
The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

9449
I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

9446
With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.
The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.
 
B.E.
19/11/2022


 

Post Nine
At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.
The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.
To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

9434
The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

9450
A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

9452
The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

9449
I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

9446
With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.
The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.
 
B.E.
19/11/2022


 

Post Nine
At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.
The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.
To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

9434
The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

9450
A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

9452
The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

9449
I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

9446
With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.
The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.
 
B.E.
19/11/2022


 

Topgallant shrouds & Backstays
 
Thanks guys - much appreciated!
 
These are straightforward shrouds, not needing any ratlines. Although there is an odd number of shrouds - three - on both sides of both masts, the shrouds are still set up in pairs - two each side. That's because the aftmost leg of each pair becomes the topgallant backstay. You just have to remember that this leg needs to be considerably longer than its companion. I'm not sure this practice is recognised in the kit instructions where the topgallant backstays seem to feature as separate items, but my understanding is that this was the way it was done at the time. In theory the central portion of each pair should be served as per the lower masts, but I don't like serving such light line (I used 0.40mm), partly because it's difficult but also the result looks too heavy.  On Speedy I experimented with using fly tying thread to serve the line which avoided the bulkiness, but it was so hard to tell the difference between served and unserved line I concluded it wasn't worth the effort.
 
The shrouds rove through the holes in the cross trees and are then led round the futtock staves and the ends seized to the topmast shrouds. An innovation that came in towards the end of the eighteenth century (and is suggested in the kit instructions) was to lead the topgallant shrouds down to the tops where they were tied off to the lower deadeyes, presumably for ease of access when they needed adjustment. I thought that might look a bit messy so I stuck to the older method.

On both masts, the backstays ended in a thimble lashed to another thimble hooked close to the main and fore channels:
 



As usual, I haven't tightened any of the stays yet, preferring to wait until they're all rigged and I can make sure everything is balanced.
 
Here's the current state of play:
 

Topgallant stays next.
 
Derek
 

Crowsfeet & Topmast Backstays
 
Thanks guys. I decided to stick with the 6/0 fly tying line for the crowsfeet. Here's the current state of play, with the crowsfeet on all three masts (now that I've started the rigging in earnest I've put the model in my dust cabinet, which makes photography a bit trickier):

I've also rigged the topmast backstays, seen above with the small clips holding the laniards in place prior to final adjustment. Each backstay is made from a single line (I used 0.50mm for the mizzen and 0.65mm for the main and fore masts) fitted with a horseshoe splice in the middle to fit over the masthead:

I served the central 40mm of each line, and created the horseshoe by splicing in a short 6mm length of line to form the straight piece. 
 
Here's a description of the method I used.
 
I seized a 3mm deadeye into the end of each backstay and used 0.30mm for the laniards connecting them to the deadeyes already fitted to the channels:
 
Topmast stays next.
 
Derek
 

Post Nine
At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.
The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.
To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

9434
The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

9450
A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

9452
The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

9449
I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

9446
With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.
The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.
 
B.E.
19/11/2022


 

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Nine
At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.
The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.
To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

9434
The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

9450
A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

9452
The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

9449
I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

9446
With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.
The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.
 
B.E.
19/11/2022


 

Post Nine
At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.
The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.
To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

9434
The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

9450
A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

9452
The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

9449
I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

9446
With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.
The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.
 
B.E.
19/11/2022


 

Post Nine
At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.
The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.
To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

9434
The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

9450
A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

9452
The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

9449
I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

9446
With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.
The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.
 
B.E.
19/11/2022


 

Thank you, Yves, Jim, and Andy.
@ Andy, - good spot, but I was aware, it was easier to go with the grain for cutting out, and the deck is to be painted.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Post Nine
At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.
The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.
To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

9434
The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

9450
A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

9452
The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

9449
I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

9446
With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.
The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.
 
B.E.
19/11/2022


 

Post Nine
At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.
The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.
To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

9434
The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

9450
A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

9452
The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

9449
I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

9446
With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.
The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.
 
B.E.
19/11/2022


 

Post Nine
At this stage I am departing from the suggested build sequence, to work on the outside hull.
The kit arrangement involves using spare hull planks to form rails between which a frieze decoration (brass etch) is fitted.
To my eye the 2x0.8mm strips look a tad heavy and I have opted for 1mm wide strips to represent the rails.

9434
The top rail is fixed level with the gunwale, follows the sheer, and extends to the flying Transom. The rails are fixed using spots of ca.

9450
A paper frieze pattern is used in preference to the etched frieze. This is simply printed on 90gsm printer paper, sprayed with artists fixative, and glued using slightly diluted pva.

9452
The lower rail is then applied following the pattern line and terminates at the transom proper.

9449
I think this arrangement gives a better scale appearance.

9446
With the rails in place, I can now tidy up the lower hull and fix the waterline.
The macros also reveal that some of the ribs need a little attention.
 
B.E.
19/11/2022


 

Thank you, Yves, Jim, and Andy.
@ Andy, - good spot, but I was aware, it was easier to go with the grain for cutting out, and the deck is to be painted.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Post Eight
 I took the obvious and simple approach.

9397
The bulkhead was faced up with a piece of 0.6mm Pearwood sheet.

9404
A new platform was cut out of the same stuff.

9405
The plank lines were lightly scribed into the surface.
9410
Wash boards will be fitted around the edge.

9412
I still can’t help feeling that the fore platform should sit below the gunwale level.

Every contemporary model I have seen shows this, as indeed does the Vanguard Pinnace kit in the same series.
 
I did wonder if I had somehow made a mistake in the build, but the kit photo’s show pretty much the same result.
 
I can’t contemplate chopping out the bow bulkheads to lower the platform, I fear it would put too much strain on the delicate construction, so we are where we are.

9414(2)
The final option is to add wash boards which go some-way to redress the balance and give a more authentic look, but it is a compromise.

9415(2)
I happened to have some spare wash boards from the Yawl kit.

9429
The detail devil in me can’t help noticing one other anomaly.
The first thole pins are shown adjacent to the fore platform, at the same level.
It was not uncommon for the first rower to sit on the platform but with the kit configuration the rower would be above the tholes which makes no sense.
 
This is an attractive model, and perhaps many will care little about the details I have highlighted. Some may say at 1:64 scale it is sufficient for the purpose.
I would, however, urge Chris to re-visit this kit, re-design the first two bulkheads to lower the platform to the same level as the thwarts (as per the Pinnace kit) and reconfigure the oarlocks to single banked rowing on each thwart.
 
‘nuff said, on with the build.
 
B.E.
18/11/2022
 
 
 
 
 

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Four
Planking and more planking.
It is a slow business planking at this scale.
Each strake has to be tapered, bevelled, wetted, edge bent, wet fitted, clamped in place, and blasted with the hairdryer, and left until formed.

9259
These sectioning clips are ideal for the purpose, applying the right degree of pressure on this fairly delicate hull.
After what feels like half a lifetime the planking nears completion.

9307(2)

9309(2)

9310

9308

9319
A week’s planking leaves two strakes left to finish.
These will be the garboard plank and a spiled plank that will sit on the bottom of the hull out of sight.

9314

9318
I have not found planking an easy job on this project and it looks pretty rough at this stage, a lot of fettlin’ to do to get an acceptable finish.
 
Hopefully it will look a lot better in the next post.
 
B.E.
12/11//2020
 
 

Post Three
Bevelled bow patterns have been attached.

9202
These are tricky to hold for bevelling, I use my toolmakers clamp which works very well.

9211
Before the fairing is started, I add support blocks to protect the Flying Transom; at this stage it is very vulnerable.
 
For the fairing I am using 320 grade paper attached to various width sanding sticks. Being mdf the fairing is quickly done, the four bulkheads from the bow and stern are the ones involved.
 
As with all this range of boats the first plank rests on the shoulder of the bulkheads to give the correct line and sheer.
 
More easily said than done at the bow in relation to the Barge.
The bows of Barges were fairly bluff so there is a tight turn from the stem around the first two bulkheads.

9213
Coupled with this there is a sharp drop in shoulder levels from Bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 requiring lateral bending also of a greater curve than is easily achieved.
The instructions don’t mention any need for lateral bending on the first strake, only referring to tapering from the second strake plank.
To secure the planks spots of ca are used from the stem to the third bulkhead, and pva thereafter.

9217
After a fair bit of fiddling around including breaking the end off the first plank, I am relieved they are finally fitted.
 
I derived a small amusement that the box contained the statement Not suitable for children under 36 months
Double that, call it years, and then some, and I still wonder if it’s suitable.😉
 
I don’t think this is going to be an easy planking job.
 
Close examination of the prototype pics indicate that stealers have been employed at the bow and what look like broader planks for some of the strakes towards the keel.

Prototype close-up – the pdf photos are a little small for detail, but it can be seen how James achieved the result.
 
This will get the job done and as the hull is intended to be painted such simplifications are perhaps less relevant.
However, I will try to attempt a more conventional arrangement.
 
From the second plank tapering is indicated.

9222
I opted to leave the plank full, but edge bend it to follow the first.
 
On the question of tapering, the planks used are 2mm x 0.8mm which makes it difficult to adopt the usual tapering method of cutting the line using rule and scalpel.
Tapering is done by means of scraping and careful sanding on a flat board to finish. Any tapering should not exceed half the plank width ie 1mm.
Fortunately, I do have some 0.8mm Pearwood Strips in varying widths, which will give more options.

9228
It is more difficult edge bending the kit lengths as it has to be done at the end of the strip which is obviously less flexible.
Having soaked the planks, the bend was induced by hand, fitted to the hull, held in place as above, and blasted with the hairdryer.

9236(2)
Spots of ca are used to secure at the bow, with pva along the edge joints, and sparingly on the bulkheads, which will eventually be removed.

9234

9237(2)
The sheer of the hull can be seen in these shots.

9241(2)
Note the blocks glued to the base board to protect the delicate stem.
 
 Hours of unremitting fun now to be had completing the hull planking.🙄
 
B.E.
06/11/2022