Blue Ensign

Thank you, James, Derek, and Ernie, looks like Hull Red it is. 🙂
and Derek and Ernie, - I don't think you will be disappointed with this sweet little project, nice lines, beautifully made sails, and a model that can sit on a mantle shelf with ease, casing not necessary.
 
Post 16


 
What to do about steering?


 
I have struggled to accept the steering arrangement as presented in the kit, which may be a simplification as Chris notes in the manual that the kit has been developed with the beginner in mind, and some aspects have been simplified.


 
To my jaundiced old eyes the whole set-up looks more 18th century than the dawn of the 20th century, and distance from the stern to the wheel is also quite puzzling requiring whatever control cables there were to run through the cabin to reach the wheel.

My best guess is that it would represent some sort of drum drive system worked off cables, but the wheel seems a long way from the stern.


 
None of the many photo’s and plans I have scoured on vessels of this type have the wheel arrangement as seen on the kit version.


 
What is indicated is a worm screw system used on these large later period Fifie’s and Zulu’s, probably from the last years of the 19th century, and certainly from the early years of the 20th century.

 

The kit deck layout generally seems to have been taken from the still existing and restored Reaper 1902 and I have decided to modify my version of the kit to better reflect a large early 20th century Fifie.



The arrangement from the plans of the True Vine 1905 drawn by Edgar March show the wheel set just inboard of the stern set in a housing with a worm employed to operate the steering.



True Vine

Here’s a model of the ‘True Vine’ held in the NMM. A worm screw drive is in place.

 
 
I have to thank Lane Duncan, secretary of the Scottish Fishing Museum model boat club for these clear photo’s of the steering set up on Reaper.

 


It is from these photo’s that I hope to make the modifications to the kit.



The wheel position is clearly evident from the Fifie on the left of this photo dated 1904.

It looks to me like they are being towed out of harbour by a steam paddle tug.

 

This painting also shows the arrangement with a worm screw.


 

 
The tricky part now is how to represent what the photo’s show.



 
B.E

23/06/20


 
 
 

Thank you, James, Derek, and Ernie, looks like Hull Red it is. 🙂
and Derek and Ernie, - I don't think you will be disappointed with this sweet little project, nice lines, beautifully made sails, and a model that can sit on a mantle shelf with ease, casing not necessary.
 
Post 16


 
What to do about steering?


 
I have struggled to accept the steering arrangement as presented in the kit, which may be a simplification as Chris notes in the manual that the kit has been developed with the beginner in mind, and some aspects have been simplified.


 
To my jaundiced old eyes the whole set-up looks more 18th century than the dawn of the 20th century, and distance from the stern to the wheel is also quite puzzling requiring whatever control cables there were to run through the cabin to reach the wheel.

My best guess is that it would represent some sort of drum drive system worked off cables, but the wheel seems a long way from the stern.


 
None of the many photo’s and plans I have scoured on vessels of this type have the wheel arrangement as seen on the kit version.


 
What is indicated is a worm screw system used on these large later period Fifie’s and Zulu’s, probably from the last years of the 19th century, and certainly from the early years of the 20th century.

 

The kit deck layout generally seems to have been taken from the still existing and restored Reaper 1902 and I have decided to modify my version of the kit to better reflect a large early 20th century Fifie.



The arrangement from the plans of the True Vine 1905 drawn by Edgar March show the wheel set just inboard of the stern set in a housing with a worm employed to operate the steering.



True Vine

Here’s a model of the ‘True Vine’ held in the NMM. A worm screw drive is in place.

 
 
I have to thank Lane Duncan, secretary of the Scottish Fishing Museum model boat club for these clear photo’s of the steering set up on Reaper.

 


It is from these photo’s that I hope to make the modifications to the kit.



The wheel position is clearly evident from the Fifie on the left of this photo dated 1904.

It looks to me like they are being towed out of harbour by a steam paddle tug.

 

This painting also shows the arrangement with a worm screw.


 

 
The tricky part now is how to represent what the photo’s show.



 
B.E

23/06/20


 
 
 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 14
 
Back on the deck
 
As I have completed the deck it seems appropriate to fit the timberheads at this time.
 
It is a tedious job fitting all these position specific tiny sections along the bulwark but Chris has done an excellent job with the etched pearwood, which saves a lot of extra fiddling which would otherwise be the case.
 

5601(2)
Care must be taken when handling these pieces, they have an inbuilt drive to ping off into the ether never to be seen again.

5608
I am now into that part of a build I like best, fiddling with the fittings. The fish hatch is the largest fitting on the deck and one that is easy to modify slightly to provide more interest.
 
The kit provides an all-in-one representation of the boards that form the cover.

5602(2)
I prefer to have sections open to view, with a glimpse of the  nets, (detail to follow) in the fish hold.
The boards were modified to allow this.
 
The board lifting rings are represented in the kit by less than convincing eyebolts. I will replace these with ring bolts, tedious as it is.
 
The Fore Mast Housing
This fitting allows the Foremast to be lowered by means of a Tabernacle. This is hidden below decks so it’s not something I need to be concerned about representing, but the model can still be displayed with the mast in the lowered position if desired.

5607(2)
The make- up of this part is a firm fit and I didn’t need to glue the side pieces in place.
The broad thwart is also glued into place.

5598(2)
I did test fit the Fore mast timber (6mm) walnut square stuff which was a tad oversize for the space, but rather than trim the mast I sanded the inside the side pieces to get a snug fit.

5600(2)

5605(2)
This is about as far as I can go with the deck fittings at present.
 
I have some concerns about the steering arrangements and representation and position of the wheel on this sail only vessel. There may have to be some deconstruction/ modification in this area.
 
I have to say I am thoroughly enjoying this build, a departure from my usual 18th century naval subjects.
 
Researching this vessel type is a new interest and I have been in touch with the Curator of the Scottish Fisheries Museum who has provided very useful additional information.
 
Cheers,
 
 
B.E.
20/06/20
 
 

Post 13


 
A Brief diversion from the main event.


 
Included in the kit is a beautifully etched name plate for the Lady Eleanor.


 
What isn’t included in the kit is the Registration Number, something every fishing vessel would have.


 
So, I decided Lady Eleanor should have one too.


 
As Fraserburgh was a centre of the North East herring fishing trade I used the letter code FR.

 

For the number I decided on 620 being the month and year of the model build.


 
It wasn’t by accident that I decided on fitting the first rubbing strake 6mm below the top strakes. This is the space required for the Registration plate.


 
To make the plate I used a 6mm wide Boxwood strip, and for the characters BECC 5mm vinyl.


5563(2)
The lettering is gold which I don’t want, these registration plates seemed to have white lettering on a black board.

 
The answer is to paint the board white, apply the letters, paint over with a waterproof black marker, and hope the result is as desired once the letters are peeled off.


5568(2)
Well not quite, there was a little bleed beneath the vinyl which required touching in, but I quite like the result.


5576(2)

5578(2)
For a simpler approach Becc do supply 5mm white letter/number sets which could simply be fitted on a black board.


 
Just a small enhancement but now back to the build.


 
B.E.

17/06/20

 
 

The red looks ok to me. Easy enough to change though if you think otherwise.

Post 5


 
First planking


 
A word about my approach to planking this hull.


 
The proposed method of first planking works fairly well for a first layer as it will ultimately be covered up, but it won’t tell you anything about how to properly plank a hull, or produce the best result with the second planking.


 
Planking should be relatively straightforward on this hull shape, and for the purposes of this first planking I took a partial tick strip and edge bending approach, which should result in a hull completed without the need to use stealers.


 
I did mark off the plank widths at each bulkhead as a guide but effectively use only bulkheads 1 and 11 for the purposes of the taper.

By using this approach I can see how the shape of the planks develop as I proceed which will be of benefit when I apply the more important Pearwood layer.


 
This will be the first model I have built where the stem, stern, and keel are not in place, before I start planking which seems a little strange to me, but I’ll run with it.


 
The Limewood planks do readily bend around this hull, but to take a little fight out of them I do soak before temporarily fitting, and applying hot air on max temp.

They are then glue, pinned, and clamped.


 
I fitted the first three planks without tapering, they followed the line of the bulwark with a gentle edge bend, and without recourse to water or heat.
 


5236 I then fitted the Garboard plank.

This is a simple affair with a full plank run along the keel line, a benefit of the simple hull shape. No concerns about where to terminate or shape it at the bow end.



 
The remaining space at midships (bulkhead 6) is 9 strakes of 5mm strip.

As I work down the hull I paint the inside of the hull planking with slightly diluted pva, this strengthens the planking joins and helps reduce the risk of a sprung plank. This is only possible down to strake six as the gap is then too narrow.


 
After the first three strakes the planks required tapering at both ends, as the hull is virtually the same shape at both stem and stern. These are quite long tapers.



5237(2)
I found that a degree of edge bend, imparted by water/heat, was required from around bulkhead 8 towards the stern, but from midships to the stem the tapered plank followed the line with little resistance.



5281(2)
With six strakes fitted from the top, I return to add a strake above the Garboard, and then return to planking from the top.



 
The idea is that as I am using only single width planks, any remaining gap for the final plank that requires spiling will appear on the underside of the hull.



5284(2)
When I came to plank 7 down from the bulwark, some edge bending both forward and aft was required.



5286
This is the shape required. The edge bend is downwards which appears counter intuitive when you look at the upward sweep of the planking.



5288
Nearing completion of the first planking.


 
One of the drawbacks with kits is that they generally only supply one width of planking for the hull. In a properly planked hull there would be wider planks particularly for the Garboard, and for the plank runs towards the stern.


5292(2)
With two strakes to go there is an annoying 2mm wide gap at midships, not entirely unexpected, and simply requires a wider board to suit.


 
I fitted one more supplied strip, down from the top.


5294(2)
This one needed the full treatment with tapering both ends, edge bending, and a twist at both ends to lie against the keel. leaving a slightly wider plank to complete.
 


5299
The final two planks will require to be spiled.

 

5302(2)
I use Tamiya tape to give me a template to work to.


 
In the absence of a wider limewood strip I cut the final spiled planks from some 1mm Boxwood sheet. It is then simply a matter of scrape and try, until the plank fits.


5313
 
 
First planking completed, it will now be sanded and scraped smooth, with hopefully minimal filler required.


 
 
B.E.


 
29/05/2020

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 14
 
Back on the deck
 
As I have completed the deck it seems appropriate to fit the timberheads at this time.
 
It is a tedious job fitting all these position specific tiny sections along the bulwark but Chris has done an excellent job with the etched pearwood, which saves a lot of extra fiddling which would otherwise be the case.
 

5601(2)
Care must be taken when handling these pieces, they have an inbuilt drive to ping off into the ether never to be seen again.

5608
I am now into that part of a build I like best, fiddling with the fittings. The fish hatch is the largest fitting on the deck and one that is easy to modify slightly to provide more interest.
 
The kit provides an all-in-one representation of the boards that form the cover.

5602(2)
I prefer to have sections open to view, with a glimpse of the  nets, (detail to follow) in the fish hold.
The boards were modified to allow this.
 
The board lifting rings are represented in the kit by less than convincing eyebolts. I will replace these with ring bolts, tedious as it is.
 
The Fore Mast Housing
This fitting allows the Foremast to be lowered by means of a Tabernacle. This is hidden below decks so it’s not something I need to be concerned about representing, but the model can still be displayed with the mast in the lowered position if desired.

5607(2)
The make- up of this part is a firm fit and I didn’t need to glue the side pieces in place.
The broad thwart is also glued into place.

5598(2)
I did test fit the Fore mast timber (6mm) walnut square stuff which was a tad oversize for the space, but rather than trim the mast I sanded the inside the side pieces to get a snug fit.

5600(2)

5605(2)
This is about as far as I can go with the deck fittings at present.
 
I have some concerns about the steering arrangements and representation and position of the wheel on this sail only vessel. There may have to be some deconstruction/ modification in this area.
 
I have to say I am thoroughly enjoying this build, a departure from my usual 18th century naval subjects.
 
Researching this vessel type is a new interest and I have been in touch with the Curator of the Scottish Fisheries Museum who has provided very useful additional information.
 
Cheers,
 
 
B.E.
20/06/20
 
 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 14
 
Back on the deck
 
As I have completed the deck it seems appropriate to fit the timberheads at this time.
 
It is a tedious job fitting all these position specific tiny sections along the bulwark but Chris has done an excellent job with the etched pearwood, which saves a lot of extra fiddling which would otherwise be the case.
 

5601(2)
Care must be taken when handling these pieces, they have an inbuilt drive to ping off into the ether never to be seen again.

5608
I am now into that part of a build I like best, fiddling with the fittings. The fish hatch is the largest fitting on the deck and one that is easy to modify slightly to provide more interest.
 
The kit provides an all-in-one representation of the boards that form the cover.

5602(2)
I prefer to have sections open to view, with a glimpse of the  nets, (detail to follow) in the fish hold.
The boards were modified to allow this.
 
The board lifting rings are represented in the kit by less than convincing eyebolts. I will replace these with ring bolts, tedious as it is.
 
The Fore Mast Housing
This fitting allows the Foremast to be lowered by means of a Tabernacle. This is hidden below decks so it’s not something I need to be concerned about representing, but the model can still be displayed with the mast in the lowered position if desired.

5607(2)
The make- up of this part is a firm fit and I didn’t need to glue the side pieces in place.
The broad thwart is also glued into place.

5598(2)
I did test fit the Fore mast timber (6mm) walnut square stuff which was a tad oversize for the space, but rather than trim the mast I sanded the inside the side pieces to get a snug fit.

5600(2)

5605(2)
This is about as far as I can go with the deck fittings at present.
 
I have some concerns about the steering arrangements and representation and position of the wheel on this sail only vessel. There may have to be some deconstruction/ modification in this area.
 
I have to say I am thoroughly enjoying this build, a departure from my usual 18th century naval subjects.
 
Researching this vessel type is a new interest and I have been in touch with the Curator of the Scottish Fisheries Museum who has provided very useful additional information.
 
Cheers,
 
 
B.E.
20/06/20
 
 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 14
 
Back on the deck
 
As I have completed the deck it seems appropriate to fit the timberheads at this time.
 
It is a tedious job fitting all these position specific tiny sections along the bulwark but Chris has done an excellent job with the etched pearwood, which saves a lot of extra fiddling which would otherwise be the case.
 

5601(2)
Care must be taken when handling these pieces, they have an inbuilt drive to ping off into the ether never to be seen again.

5608
I am now into that part of a build I like best, fiddling with the fittings. The fish hatch is the largest fitting on the deck and one that is easy to modify slightly to provide more interest.
 
The kit provides an all-in-one representation of the boards that form the cover.

5602(2)
I prefer to have sections open to view, with a glimpse of the  nets, (detail to follow) in the fish hold.
The boards were modified to allow this.
 
The board lifting rings are represented in the kit by less than convincing eyebolts. I will replace these with ring bolts, tedious as it is.
 
The Fore Mast Housing
This fitting allows the Foremast to be lowered by means of a Tabernacle. This is hidden below decks so it’s not something I need to be concerned about representing, but the model can still be displayed with the mast in the lowered position if desired.

5607(2)
The make- up of this part is a firm fit and I didn’t need to glue the side pieces in place.
The broad thwart is also glued into place.

5598(2)
I did test fit the Fore mast timber (6mm) walnut square stuff which was a tad oversize for the space, but rather than trim the mast I sanded the inside the side pieces to get a snug fit.

5600(2)

5605(2)
This is about as far as I can go with the deck fittings at present.
 
I have some concerns about the steering arrangements and representation and position of the wheel on this sail only vessel. There may have to be some deconstruction/ modification in this area.
 
I have to say I am thoroughly enjoying this build, a departure from my usual 18th century naval subjects.
 
Researching this vessel type is a new interest and I have been in touch with the Curator of the Scottish Fisheries Museum who has provided very useful additional information.
 
Cheers,
 
 
B.E.
20/06/20
 
 

Looks good to my eye Glenn, Cheerful looks so impressive with those nice woods.
 
I certainly wouldn't use sanding sealer on quality woods like Box and similar.
 
B.E.

Looks good to my eye Glenn, Cheerful looks so impressive with those nice woods.
 
I certainly wouldn't use sanding sealer on quality woods like Box and similar.
 
B.E.

Post 14
 
Back on the deck
 
As I have completed the deck it seems appropriate to fit the timberheads at this time.
 
It is a tedious job fitting all these position specific tiny sections along the bulwark but Chris has done an excellent job with the etched pearwood, which saves a lot of extra fiddling which would otherwise be the case.
 

5601(2)
Care must be taken when handling these pieces, they have an inbuilt drive to ping off into the ether never to be seen again.

5608
I am now into that part of a build I like best, fiddling with the fittings. The fish hatch is the largest fitting on the deck and one that is easy to modify slightly to provide more interest.
 
The kit provides an all-in-one representation of the boards that form the cover.

5602(2)
I prefer to have sections open to view, with a glimpse of the  nets, (detail to follow) in the fish hold.
The boards were modified to allow this.
 
The board lifting rings are represented in the kit by less than convincing eyebolts. I will replace these with ring bolts, tedious as it is.
 
The Fore Mast Housing
This fitting allows the Foremast to be lowered by means of a Tabernacle. This is hidden below decks so it’s not something I need to be concerned about representing, but the model can still be displayed with the mast in the lowered position if desired.

5607(2)
The make- up of this part is a firm fit and I didn’t need to glue the side pieces in place.
The broad thwart is also glued into place.

5598(2)
I did test fit the Fore mast timber (6mm) walnut square stuff which was a tad oversize for the space, but rather than trim the mast I sanded the inside the side pieces to get a snug fit.

5600(2)

5605(2)
This is about as far as I can go with the deck fittings at present.
 
I have some concerns about the steering arrangements and representation and position of the wheel on this sail only vessel. There may have to be some deconstruction/ modification in this area.
 
I have to say I am thoroughly enjoying this build, a departure from my usual 18th century naval subjects.
 
Researching this vessel type is a new interest and I have been in touch with the Curator of the Scottish Fisheries Museum who has provided very useful additional information.
 
Cheers,
 
 
B.E.
20/06/20