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Chuck Seiler

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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. Chuck Seiler
    Keith,. Do you have any pictures? I am intrigued. Start a build log and post some. I know that you are already complete, but this will allow you to post your pics without using somebody else's log. Which 2 books?
  2. Chuck Seiler
    Steve, That looks good. Did you use pencil for the 'tween plank caulking? I am running a bit behind. As I think I previously mentioned, I believe the bulkhead at the back of the forward platform (in this case, frame 12) was not solid...but in fact open to permit crawlspace type access. I am having some setbacks. :-( I hope to have some pics by tonight.
  3. Chuck Seiler
    More on nails and nail patterns. As I mentioned above, I will put together a piece on what the nail patterns were based on BRATTEN. However, here is a clarification of a previous post. Here is the previous picture of PHILLY with some of the nail positions outlined in white.
  4. Chuck Seiler
    Mark, Chapter 8 of the dissertation Bart linked to in post 101 is almost the same as chapter 7 of the book. I will compare the two later this weekend, but reading the book I see that in some cases the number of nails or treenails are given precisely and others estimated. From my readings it appears to be a case of "nail the crap out if it, where ever needed" as opposed to any particular formular. I kind of glossed over that section (construction) when I built the first time because it was alot of stuff at once. As I look at it again, I am finding alot of good stuff and since I plan on more detail, it helps alot. I was incorrect in saying there were 32 frames, there were actually 39. Since we don't plan on nailing until later, my plan is to go thru the book chapter 7 and come up with the specific nailing numbers for each section. He divides it into lower (underside) planking, interior floor (ceiling) planking, interior side (ceiling) planking, exterior planking, the wale, deck platform planking. Should I present this as a post or as an enclosure to a post? Kurt, do I get my NRG "research ninja pin" for this? POST SCRIPT. Different designs/different builders? Eh? More like an organized cluster-goatrope. If you read the early chapters of the dissertation you get a feel for what they had to do to get these things into the air...er ah onto the water. 8 gunboats and 4 row galleys over a couple months time in the backwoods of nowhere using prety much green wood, with an unknown number of carpenters and shipwrights coming and going based on a design that nobody knew. Apparently Arnold wanted the gunboats to be like the ones on the Delaware. Nobody knew what those looked like. However, they had been building bateauxs on the lake for decades. The gunboats appear to be based on those designs with the frames massed produced. The boats were slapped together in three weeks, with pieces dissembled later in order to place armament and other items once the boats got to fort Ticondaroga for fitting out.
  5. Chuck Seiler
    That is John Bratten's dissertation (doctoral dissertation perhaps?) on the wreck. While not word for word, it appears to be the basis of the book I cited. This was dated 1997 whereas the book was published in 2002. With the exception of a few flourishes, I suspect the info is the same. Good find Bart!!! I did not recall the part about the floorboards being connected with trunnels. I will have to re-read that. My recollection was of the replica using trunnels and my thought at the time was that they expect the replica to last more than 2 months. There is evidence (as cited in the dissertation and book) that they actually installed one of the mortars in PHILADELPHIA and it exploded while testing there-on. The other blew up upon testing as well. He says there were square openings in the inner planking indicating where the mortar may have been mounted (on the aft platform), but the Model Expo plans do not show that detail. Another "Oh crap" moment from the book. When they went to mount th eforward 12 pounder, the stem was inthe way and had to be cut down. Ooops!
  6. Chuck Seiler
    I was thinking of taking a stab at Ed Tosti's method of using mono-filiment...probably grey, if available. However, given the number of nails, this would be overwhelming. I figured the number at one point. I don't remember what that was but it falls into the category of "butt-load". To answer Steve's question on his log...Each plank is nailed at each frame-1 nail for every 4 or 6 inches of width(I would have to recalculate). Remember, the kit only uses half the number of frames the real boat had, so plan accordingly. This gives you a rough idea what kind of measles infested beast it will look like. PS...All those little dimples are the nails.
  7. Chuck Seiler
    Over on Steve's log we were talking about nails. Based on observations of the actual hull and pieces-parts/artifacts outlined in John Bratten's book, the nails were no more than 1/2 wide. By my calculations that would be .02". At that scale, I don't think that the fact they are square makes any diff. We are discussing this now, with the plan that at some point we may or may not "nail" the hull. Out to the peanut gallery for thoughts/comments. Hey!! I made LCDR. It only took 28 years.
  8. Chuck Seiler
    Continuing on this thread, while we are here, by my calculation, 1/2 inch is .02". I don't have my caliper available, but my recollection of an .020 saw blade, this is about the size of a semi dull pencil point. What does the peanut gallery say? Continuing.
  9. Chuck Seiler
    Looking at " BRATTEN"* I see that, in addition to the nails in the hull itself, they recovered 18 assorted iron nails/spikes. All square. None over 1/2 width. I agree with Steve. I will tinker with this as I progress, but more pressing things await. * "The Gondola PHILADELPHIA & the Battle of Lake Champlain" by John R. Bratten
  10. Chuck Seiler
    Russ, Not in this case. They just whacked the nails into place and when on to the next. They weren't all that concerned with corrosion since they didn't expect the ships/gunboats to be around very long. Their goal was to get as many hulls into the water as they could. Counter sinking and plugging the nails took too long. As it was, IIRC they got the full compliment of gunboats completed and got all but one row galley completed in time. (It was completed but not fitted out in time for the battle.) As you see, the nails are relatively visible.
  11. Chuck Seiler
    I believe it was/is square, but at that scale, does it matter? Particularly if the nails are subdued enough? What are your recommendos?
  12. Chuck Seiler
    That's the one. I have the next size up for my 770, but it screws into the head. It takes from #80 drill to 1/8" shank.
  13. Chuck Seiler
    Bart, The chuck I am thinking of inserts into the dremel like a collet rather than screws into the head.
  14. Chuck Seiler
    Nails! Uhhhg!!!! I think I am going to use the underside to experiment with my nails. As previously discussed, there are ALOT of nails. It could become overwhelming fast if not careful. (Overwhelming both in terms of the work required as well as the visual effect.) I have seen alot of models that look like an outbrak of measles because the trunnels are too obvious. I used subdued pencil point dots on my scratch Philly, but that was 1/2 the scale of this one. I don't know if that will be TOO subdued or not. I was hoping to blow it off for awhile. What do you plan on using for 'nails'? ...and for those out ther not paying attention, they are actual iron nails, not trunnels.
  15. Chuck Seiler
    Ron, If it had/has masts it almost certainly has to have standing rigging. Looking at some pictures of it online shows me that it has set of shrouds for each mast and a fore stay. Probably more. Its a pretty simple rig, so there is not much there.
  16. Chuck Seiler
    A multi-legged mini table!!!!! Looks good. Time for fairing and planking.
  17. Chuck Seiler
    Bart, That's good to hear. Another Philly for all to see. Hopefully Steve wil post some more pics soon. :-)
  18. Chuck Seiler
    I am installing one side at a time. With the way these are set up, it pretty much doesn't matter, as long as you ensure they are square.
  19. Chuck Seiler
    Try the micro chuck.
  20. Chuck Seiler
    Progress!!! At this rate, I will be done by Halloween. (not likely). Progress continues on installing frames. At this point, before it gets too cluttered, I want to install the pedestal assemblies. Basically these are the nuts that the hanger bolts will screw into. Here is the forward assembly. Aft assembly. I need to be careful here to ensure (1) all is straight and (2) I don't glue the bolt to the nut.
  21. Chuck Seiler
    For what it's worth, I have several Dremels; both corded and battery, big Lithium and old fashioned small-guy. Each has its place. However, I put the most mileage on the small battery Dremel. I had (have) a 770 with a extra battery. Agreed, the charge does not last as long as I would like, but it is not a show stopper. The oldest battery is about to give up the ghost after many years of use. Instead of getting another battery, I decided to get another Dremel...this time the 7700. It seems quieter (although that may because I drove the bearings into the ground on my old one), it is quite light and has enough power for what I need most of the time. I found that the amount of material removed has alot to do with the attachment used and the 'touch' you apply. Whatever brand or model you choose, I think you will find it is a handy tool to have.
  22. Chuck Seiler
    I wanted to get 1-2 and 15-16 in to anchor the ends, then 9-10 for the middle. After that it is based on room available for my squares to fit. I want to avid the areas adjacent to the pedestals until the nuts are glued in place.
  23. Chuck Seiler
    With the keel installed, I ran lines perpendicular to the keel in order to ensure the frames remained square to the keel when installed.
  24. Chuck Seiler
    Dave, How's that? For those of you not familiar with the kit, the frames/bulkheads are pre-scribed with limit lines for beveling and tick mark for planking. These are in lieu of tick strips and lining off the hull.
  25. Chuck Seiler
    PUBLISH OR DIE Sadly, I am drawn back to modeling rather than being at the beach. Oh well. Next week when the crowds leave. I have attached the keel piece. The 'rabbet pieces' (18a and 18b) have bee added to the stem. Frames 16 and 15 are dry fitted. The inside of the frame uprights remain unsanded. They will eventually be sanded on a bevel parallel to the exterior bevels. Exterior bevels have been partially cut with about 75% of the material removed. These will be finalized once all frames are in place. I used boxwood for parts 18a and 18b. I also added a boxwood piece in front of the stem. It appears that a need to do a little more sanding to blend in the joint.

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