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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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Harbor Freight Workbench
Chuck Seiler replied to Landlubber Mike's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Wow, indeed!!!! -
Rusty, Thanks. That is about what my current build looks like; wale = 1/16 over base and black = 1/32 over base. I am a bit concerned with working with the 1/32" stuff. My other option is to go full thickness: 3/32". My opinion on that is it will be TOO thick to porperly bend. I guess that's why they made experimentation.
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Rumor has it that you were soliciting Fair go-ers to find Japanese speaking/reading folks to help with the instructions. How have you been able to cope with the Japanese-only instructions? Any recommendations for somebody considering this kit?
- 196 replies
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- higaki kaisen
- woody joe
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Kurt, I don't know how far along you are. If you get a chance, take a gander at the rigging plan. Does the location of the top yard lift blocks look right to you? I think when I get my PHILLY back, I will move that up the mast another 1/4" or so. Bob, Kurt was going for the "under the water for 150 years" weathering. :-) Chuck
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This kit category is a tough crowd. Slack off a couple days and you slip to page 4. Bob, I have it on good authority that you had a good 8 hours of build time Saturday. Let's see some updated pictures of that balsa wood pirate ship. Chuck
- 196 replies
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- higaki kaisen
- woody joe
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I agree with Mike Y. It is very fixable.
- 335 replies
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- 18th century longboat
- Finished
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Bob, Your CONSTITUTION feels forsaken and unloved. First the longboat, now Woody Joe. I look forward to your progress.
- 196 replies
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JS, I just came upon your log. I am planning on building the Hunt bashed MS Rattlesnake in the near future. I will review your build log in great detail and will refer to it often.
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Dave must be one of the Manitowoc promoters. He is trying to get me to come from San Diego,
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Black Strake
Chuck Seiler replied to Chuck Seiler's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Allan, Thanks. I had forgotten about that. I used India Ink for the wale on my SULTANA. I think I diluted it slightly with alcohol to help penetrate. On SULTANA, I had experimented with both black and variations of red. I tried several different methods (diluting vs not diluting, etc) that I forgot what I did. :-( Since I will install the wale and black strake before I plank anything else, I can paint or ink without fear of it bleeding over. Also, since I will be experimenting with planking (real vs haphazard) I am thinking about trying the painting method of multiple coats of diluted acrylic. Decisions, decisions. Perhaps one method on one side and one on the other. Or one on the side and one one the transom. I better stop before the moderators move this to the PAINTING folder. ;-) -
Thanks Pete. You arrived just in time for closing. Actually, some time after July 4th I will get the model back from the County Fair and will install: Sweeps rack, sweeps, folded awning, add 3 more swivel guns, add a few more rope coils (can never have too many rope coils). I am debating whether or not to add barrels, crates, etc.
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Black Strake
Chuck Seiler replied to Chuck Seiler's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I agree. For the most part I don't paint much...mostly natural wood or stain. I would prefer to plank the wale and black strake in ebony. I have some that I will try out, but have found it hard to work with. Barring that, the wale will be painted. I have noted Chuck's (and others) method of multiple coats of thin acrylic paint and really like the result. -
Black Strake
Chuck Seiler replied to Chuck Seiler's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks Chuck. -
Martin, When working in wood, virtually ALL mistakes can be corrected. Not a happy prospect, to be sure, but true. However, sometimes it takes skill and effort beyond the basic modeler (as well as extra pieces-parts). BUT...this is how you learn. As I tell people when I am demonstrating ship modeling, I have not made a model yet where I have not needed to pull it apart at some point. In my younger days, I would work around it and would settle for 'whatever'. Now I endeavour to fix it, before the error compounds. Mobbsie is correct. Post your build here and if there aer any issues you will get plenty of knowledgable feedback.
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