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Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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I left the innards exposed. A half inch seems excessive. I have not gotten to that point yet with Philly 2 so I am not sure of the distance (I guess I could measure). I'm thinking a half inch total...but I understand what you are saying. In real life that happened because they didn't plan very well and the bow was too high for the gun to clear....so they sawed off a chunk. On Philly 1, that area is reinforce with sold wood, so I painted it black to appear open. The 12 pound forward gun covers some of that, but not all.- 259 replies
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I built the FAR WEST about 10 years ago. It is here in my office at work and I gaze upon it as we speak. As part of doing research, I was amazed at where those things could go. While the Mississippi boats and Missouri boats has a lot in common, it was two different worlds. The interior passenger areas were pretty luxurious (for their day) but with limits. Note the two "rest facilities" at the aft end of the upper deck, just forward of the paddlewheel. Two seats, no waiting!!!
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I might be tempted to use a red auto primer. I know its not acrylic, but....if I recall from my Navy days, it is close to anti fouling red. With reference to water down ratio, I would say to experiment. When I water down artist acrylic, it is heavily pigmented water. The first coat is translucent...you can see the base below. The second, third and fourth coats do the job. I let dry and sand with 1200 sandpaper (first 2 coats) or buff with cloth. It works great on wood, but I'm not sure how it will work on plastic. You may need a slightly different technique.
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Pics! Pics! Pics! Pics! How did you end up doing your lower dead eyes? I remember having a tough time with those. ...tying the knots in the right place after running the line thru the hole in the hull was difficult. I think what I ended up doing was determine where the know should be. Tie it BEFORE putting it through the hole, making it about the same size as the hole. When I pulled the knot thru the hole, it was hard, but with a little effort I pulled it through and it was not going back.
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Thoughts in general: I have had a lot of success hand painting with Badger acrylics. Even better when thinned down, a Nenad suggests. I have had good success using artist acrylic (from a tube) watered down as well. I got this from Chuck's discussion in his Winchelsea (?) log. (Confederacy maybe). Thinned down to almost water, multiple layers until you get the finish you like. It works great on wood. I assume it will work on plastic as well. So far I have only used black. Red is n my future
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Will it fit a Byrne's Saw? I imagine a feather board will work as well.
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Which project do you start first? The model or the room addition used to store the model?
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Rgr that. I think he was just asking if the issues you noted were available.
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I am assuming so. Contact the Ships in Scale folks. Check out the following: http://www.seaways.com/Back%20Issues.htm
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Oh no!!!!! Having had to start over on some projects in the past, I understand to some degree where you are at. Sometimes it is easy to go back and get in the groove. Sometimes not. Enthusiasm is gone and you really don't want to go down that path again. I hope in this case it is the former. I am learning a lot and hope to see you back in battery again soon.
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Chuck, When you specify the number of strakes below the wale, to you count to the keel or to the top of the garboard strake?
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Chuck, Obvious from your videos, one of the keys to getting it right is ensuring the garboard strake is the correct length. This is something I struggle with. Is there any rule of thumb regarding where it ends?
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Not yet. I am still trying to fabricate the bulkheads.
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Meet Your NRG Directors and Officers
Chuck Seiler replied to tlevine's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
KURT! KURT! KURT! KURT! -
Can you remove the gun or is it attached permanently? I think it is easier to rig the carriage, get it into position, then remount the gun. IIRC, I rigged the running tackle with the gun extended, anchored one of the breeching line eyebolts (with line attached), THEN hauled the carriage into place. As I said, it may be easier with the larger scale. New project: Colonial sloop PROVIDENCE.
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Steve, That's looking really good!! Wait 'til you start securing all the lines and bolts and stuff up at the pointy end. Hopefully it will be easier with the larger size.
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For some reason, I am not getting email notifications on the builds I am following, so I did not see this earlier. As I have told Steve, I have stalled on this project because I am obsessing over the nails. Your nailing looks pretty good...although I think you are using 1 less nail/plank/strake (based on Smithsonian ship). While not historically correct, after looking at your pics, I am thinking about going with the reduced number of nails.
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Clare, Greetings once again. Based on your post, I checked Amazon for the HK. The only one I found on Amazon (9 left) wanted $419.99.
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I believe the Lumberyard ONEIDA employs similar frame construction.
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The balls on the forward rack would have been the 12 pounders (3/16"). Steel ball bearings. Amazon has 144 for about $5. The 9 pounders would be about 5/32" about the same price.
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Down 4 points, ball on the 1 yard line, 3 downs, 40 seconds 2 times outs and one of the best ball carriers in the game. What could go wrong? DOH!
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What,no pics?
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Wow! Great job. I am glad to see you have been working on this. I feel bad about slacking off. (but not real bad) Which coils? On deck or rigging coils? In both cases I made the coils as separate entities and glued them over the loose end of the line. The coils for the running rigging was the biggest pain because there were so many of them. I used the handle of a small file to make the coils. I made several (6 or 7) wraps around the handle and tied an overhand knot to keep it from unraveling. I also coated it with diluted white glue. The handle was smooth and tapered so it was easy to slip the coil off once the glue dried. I slipped the coil partially off so that I could wrap part of the overhand knot line around the coil and knot it so it would not unravel. This was tricky and was the point many of my coils failed. One end of the line is cropped and hidden while the other is allowed to hang out as if the bitter end if the line.
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