Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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I am installing one side at a time. With the way these are set up, it pretty much doesn't matter, as long as you ensure they are square. -
Dremal Power Tool
Chuck Seiler replied to Spiderpig's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Try the micro chuck. -
Progress!!! At this rate, I will be done by Halloween. (not likely). Progress continues on installing frames. At this point, before it gets too cluttered, I want to install the pedestal assemblies. Basically these are the nuts that the hanger bolts will screw into. Here is the forward assembly. Aft assembly. I need to be careful here to ensure (1) all is straight and (2) I don't glue the bolt to the nut.
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Dremal Power Tool
Chuck Seiler replied to Spiderpig's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
For what it's worth, I have several Dremels; both corded and battery, big Lithium and old fashioned small-guy. Each has its place. However, I put the most mileage on the small battery Dremel. I had (have) a 770 with a extra battery. Agreed, the charge does not last as long as I would like, but it is not a show stopper. The oldest battery is about to give up the ghost after many years of use. Instead of getting another battery, I decided to get another Dremel...this time the 7700. It seems quieter (although that may because I drove the bearings into the ground on my old one), it is quite light and has enough power for what I need most of the time. I found that the amount of material removed has alot to do with the attachment used and the 'touch' you apply. Whatever brand or model you choose, I think you will find it is a handy tool to have. -
I wanted to get 1-2 and 15-16 in to anchor the ends, then 9-10 for the middle. After that it is based on room available for my squares to fit. I want to avid the areas adjacent to the pedestals until the nuts are glued in place.
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With the keel installed, I ran lines perpendicular to the keel in order to ensure the frames remained square to the keel when installed.
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Dave, How's that? For those of you not familiar with the kit, the frames/bulkheads are pre-scribed with limit lines for beveling and tick mark for planking. These are in lieu of tick strips and lining off the hull.
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PUBLISH OR DIE Sadly, I am drawn back to modeling rather than being at the beach. Oh well. Next week when the crowds leave. I have attached the keel piece. The 'rabbet pieces' (18a and 18b) have bee added to the stem. Frames 16 and 15 are dry fitted. The inside of the frame uprights remain unsanded. They will eventually be sanded on a bevel parallel to the exterior bevels. Exterior bevels have been partially cut with about 75% of the material removed. These will be finalized once all frames are in place. I used boxwood for parts 18a and 18b. I also added a boxwood piece in front of the stem. It appears that a need to do a little more sanding to blend in the joint.
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I agree with Kurt that one should read the instructions all the way through before starting. It helps from being surprised later on by some step you should have prepared for early on. Being a guy, however (i.e. adverse to maps, instructions and the like, until after all else has failed) I find that even though I read the instructions, they don't make much of an impact because I am not familiar with the whys-and-wherefores of later stages of the build. What I find helpful is (1) the initial read thru,and (2) reading ahead a couple steps each time I finish a phase. That way I find the read ahead makes more sense. I did just the opposite of Kurt. (It's not my fault....I didn't have instructions). On my scratch Philly, I waited until much later to rig and install the guns. I didn't want them to get in the way. It ended up being difficult. This time I will do as Kurt indicates...Rig and install the carriages, install guns later. I also plan on drilling two holes in the pieces that hold down the trunnions and pinning them in place as well as gluing. For metal on wood or metal on metal (that cannot be silver brazed) I have been using "Loc-tite All Purpose 'Go-2' Glue".
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I suppose that would also work when the glue that is stuck to your hand is also stuck to the model. (Seriously, I have done that)
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Knocking something off....or knocking over a lamp...or punching a hole in the wall.......
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Steve, There is nothing wrong with taking your time and making sure everything is correct. It will save alot of time and grief down the road. Looking good.
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I would use whatever you are using on your interior planking. I will be using Golden Pecan for interior.
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Keel Assembly The basic keel assembly is also a three piece. It is long and bendy, so I need to be careful with it. I will be happy when it is safely glued to the floorboard. As you know, I will be cutting MORE slots in it to accommodate the screws. Any wagers as to how many times it will break before I glue it to the floor? I placed the keel piece on a flat board...glass would be better, but I didn't have any this size. I first attached the stem piece. I placed a heavy, flat object on top to keep it flat. Notice that most of the keel is intended. That is where the floorboard will go. Next comes the stern piece. Same-o, same-o. It doesn't matter if you do the stem first or the stern. You have to be careful not to be brandishing the assembly like an Arabian cymatar lest that first slot from the rear cracks off (or so I have heard). Before I get too far, I will want to stain the keel between slots 5-6 and 11-12. IIRC, some of this will stick up from the fore and aft cockpits. Its easier to stain and sand it now than later. Next, I will be placing some pieces in the stem and stern that will help form the rabbet. These pieces will be inside the planking and not visible, so I can leave them basswood. Note the bevel. Another piece will be added to form the other side of the rabbet. These will be visible and I will make these out of boxwood rather than use the basswood piece provided in the kit. The pieces on the stem are 18a and 18b, while the ones in the stern are 25 and 26. Yeah, I don't know either. I think the kit was designed by army guys too.* Here is how the stem piece will fit. I am using one of the cross supports to square the piece and ensure it fits in the correct location. * PHILADELPHIA has alot of things you don't normally find on a ship, or is rigged/built different than you would normally find. I attribute that to the fact it was designed by army guys. For a discussion of those, you can browse my PHILLY 1 log. ...or wait around, I am sure I will mention them again.
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Tim, I will be staining the pedestals. I am looking at using FRUITWOOD (which I just bought and want to try out). Pops, I think the hanger bolts will work out well. I will probably go with a woodscrew into the bottom of the pedestal.
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Bart, How over-thick is it? If it is reasonable, it can always be sanded down. You will be sanding alot of the bottom anyway. A little dremel action to get the meat and then sanding bvlock for the whole surface.
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Huzzah!!! The hanger bolts have arrived!!!! Let's go back a step. Pedestal and hanger bolt. I am using a 1" 8-32. Hanger bolts installed into pedestals. One has bolt for fit. HB-P assemblies test fitted into floorboard with keel aligned. Close up. I will level the pedestals so the topis even with the floor. I will then mark the keel so that I can slot it for the screw, then widen one part to accommodate the nut. More to follow.
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I have not gone as far as you, so I am not sure what the issue is. My thought is that all we need to do is have the bottom plank 1/32" wider that originally planned and we may have to notch the floorboard to extend the rabbet. Could you IM me with a picture of what you are concerned about?
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I guess it's time to start in earnest. We first start by assembling the bottom piece (or as I call it, the floor board) and the keel assembly. I believe the instructions actually start with the keel, but I will start with the floorboard because I think it flows better. This is pretty straight forward. Three pieces. I was careful to place on a flat surface and weight down the pieces while the glue dried. This thing is a surfboard. As you already know, I inserted the planking for the bailing well and have planked the underside. The next thing I did was prepare the floorboard for the keel piece. The keel piece is long and thin and prone to bending. As such, I wanted to provide a reference line to ensure the keel was true. Using a caliper, I measured exact width of keel. 1/2 of that was marked one side of center line. Using compass/dividers I took that that measurement and ran a line down both sides of the center line. The keel fits snugly betwixt the two lines.
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Thanks Tim. I can't say that there is much progress yet. I'm waiting for my hanger bolts to arrive and enjoying what is left of the summer. Meanwhile, I am preparing floorboard, keelpiece and frames. I may post some of that tonight or tomorrow.
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Kurt, The last two issues were parts 1 and 2. I don't know how many more issues the build will cover. At least 2, I suspect.
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In honor of our being part of the Nautical research Guild...here is a little nautical research. Here is a virtual 3D representation of PHILADELPHIA. Bookmark this page because I may be referring back to it. I had problems with it using older versions of Explorer, but with the current one and Firefox, I have no problems. http://3d.si.edu/explorer?modelid=47 Pan, zoom, top, bottom, P&S views of Philadelphia as she sits in the Smithsonian. There's a measuring tape you can use to find dimensions and spacing of chosen features, like beam and frame spacing. For those of you planking the underside, it shows the underside...I think. It's hard to tell if it is accurate because I done see the center keel.
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That's important. If the keel is crooked, everything sucks wind.
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How long are the pieces?
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You can never take TOOOOO much time, if you get it right. Better that than rushing it and getting it wrong. I plan on centering the keel much like I centered the "underside center strip". Measure width of keel, divide by 2, set my compass at that distance and using the center groove, run a line up one side of the center groove. That SHOULD be the limit line for the keel and can be used to ensure the keel is straight, As a check, I will turn the compas around and run an identical line on the other side of the center groove. The keel should fit snugly betwixt the two.
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