Chuck Seiler

https://www.animatedknots.com/complete-knot-list 
 
I found this useful , I hope it helps..
 
Bob M.

That looks interesting, Bob!  I'm saving that one.  I have this one saved for reference and have used it several times... 
 
Rope Knots - All Rope Knots Animated and Illustrated | How to tie all knots for Boating, Climbing, Scouting, Survival, (netknots.com)

I wonder how many people take advice like this, versus they have to touch the hot stove before they listen.  (ouch, that IS hot!!!)  I have spoken on this topic often, so it is close to my heart.  I usually see "Yeah, I hear you, but that doesn't apply to me."  Far be it from me to judge.  An old friend of mine built a fully rigged, quite detailed miniature of HMS VICTORY as his second model.  For some it DOESN't apply to them.  Most it does.
 
    I hope that those who disregard this and get the complicated model, only to 'touch the stove' don't get discouraged.  Instead, I hope they have the wisdom to set that project aside and get a simple starter kit to learn on.
 
OTHER WORDS OF WISDOM FOR NEWBIES:
1.  You can never have too many clamps.
2.  Alcohol is your friend.  It helps you unglue previously screwed up glued up parts so you can try again.  (Including ALL the planking from one model...just saying.) 
3.  Magnification and light are also your friends.
4.  If you get frustrated or tired, set it aside and come back to it later.
5.  READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am a long time PRIME member already.  Price is above and beyond that.

A couple of updates for the shallop.

The rigging lines have been tidied up; the different number of loops reflect how much of the line is in use.


Off-topic, I gather that belaying pins are unlikely at this stage (early 1600's); it is far too late to do anything about that now.

And I've made progress with posing the crew; the guy at the back (stern) controls the tiller:

 
He has developed a paunch, and wants for some period clothing.

I am a long time PRIME member already.  Price is above and beyond that.

In the NROTC program Naval History was a 1 semester course, I believe sophomore year.  Like OCS, Victory at Sea was part of the curriculum.  Some guy, a fellow Midshipman was allowed to bring his stereo to class so we got full benefit of the music.
 
Roger

Oh, yes . . .

The clue is in the caption - a "naval odometer" according to Vitruvius (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitruvius )
 
Steven

I wasn't aware that there were paddle wheelers in the middle ages.  😁

Upon checking Prime, I see it is available, but I would either have to rent at $.99 for 4 episodes or buy at $.99 per episode.  If you buy full 'season' it is about $20.

I have the entire series on DVD. I've had it at least 10 years and it cost less than $20.
 
I have no idea how many times I watched this as a kid - every time it came up on TV. And then while in US Navy Officer Candidate's School we were shown episodes just about every day as part of our "training" (indoctrination).
 
I still love to watch it!
 
Gung Ho!

Upon checking Prime, I see it is available, but I would either have to rent at $.99 for 4 episodes or buy at $.99 per episode.  If you buy full 'season' it is about $20.

I wasn't aware that there were paddle wheelers in the middle ages.  😁

I'm starting on a model of the Golden City, a paddlewheeler which operates on Ballarat's Lake Wendouree, run by volunteers  and taking passengers for trips around the lake every summer Sunday (weather permitting). It is a replica of one of the paddlesteamers which did the same thing back around the turn of the 20th century (unfortunately destroyed by fire some years ago).
 
It will be a Solid model, and I'm first making one at 1:50 to iron out the bugs. After that I'll be making another at 1:25 to present to the people who run her, who also run a museum dedicated to the vessel itself and its history. 
 
I've spoken to one of the organisers who's very keen on the idea - apart from anything else, visitors to the museum get disappointed when they can't see the vessel if she's out on the lake, so a decent sized model (68 cm or 27 inches long) would be a great help.
 
I've actually started on both models already, and if it all works out I'll simplify the design and make multiple 1:50 models to sell to visitors, as a fund-raiser for both the museum and for the Men's Shed where I make stuff (and which has so many wonderful boys' toys, like bandsaws, lathes, bench saws etc etc).
 
Here are some photos of her


And some I took close up while she was in her boatshed.




Plus photos of the plans which the museum kindly got out for me, and which I then redrew to make the model.


And here are the smaller and larger models so far. As you can see in the first and second photos the deck overlaps the hull considerably.

Upside down, showing the overlap.

And with 'paddleboxes' - just cut from a bit of 20mm wood with a hole saw and cut in half.

Comparative sizes - 1:50 in front and 1:25 behind.


The two together with paddleboxes. The bit in front is the roof awning, which fortunately is flat. And another shot of the two together. (The phone camera reduces the size contrast in the first photo and exaggerates it in the second.)

I think the most difficult bit for me will be the posts that hold up the awning and the railings. I can't see any way to make them except out of wire, and I'm currently rubbish at soldering. Well, another skill I'll need to learn . . .
 
Steven

Based on y’all’s feedback, I ended up modifying my block sander with 320 grit and replaced the paddles with sandpaper. I just stapled a double ply to the center mandrel. Worked like a charm! Chuck’s blocks came out looking incredible. 
 

That’s looking very nice indeed.

All, bar one, of the rigging lines are now in place, and the foresail has been lowered.

I wanted the foresail lowered, so I gave it a brief soaking under the bathroom tap.
This made the paper flexible and workable, but loosened the glue (generic white PVA) I'd used for the sail's seams and ropes.

The one thread that wasn't affected was the string wound around the forestay.  This made life difficult by not wanting to adapt to the folds I was adding to the sail.
That was replaced with wire rings (bronze in this case, brass or copper would work as well), followed by another trip to the bathroom.

This time I attached the edge ropes after folding the sail into place; a slow process.

 
Most of the rigging lines are in place, the loose ends need tidying:

 

Chuck,
    What did you use as a container?

'Tis a common tale.  Sometime very small details take alot of time and effort.  You wonder if it is worth the time/effort, but later realize it is.  A poor detail distracts from a good model.

I bought a case of metal cans with a screw top.  It cost me $15.  They are the size of a can of peanuts give or take. 
 
Folks use them to make candles or to store candy and other stuff.  Got them on Etsy.  I thought I would need many and I would wreck them after a while but this is still the first one after about 6 years.
 
Chuck

Probably too coarse(I use 320 grit)....but more than anything you are not gluing up those layers securely with enough glue...and or not waiting long enough for the layers to completely dry.  Dont be afraid to use enough glue.   In my case usually CA.   A drop on each area needed to be secured.  And I tumble at the highest speed in my tumbler...3000 RPM.  Note how my tumbler is home made and very simple.  No wood flapper and instead just a few sheets of 320 grit which are very flexible yet stiff enough to do the job.
 
the center shaft is also simple…a wooden stick (cherry) with a slit in it to accept the sandpaper.  Like a tuning fork of sorts with some cross strips in the center to prevent splitting.  
 
This thing gets a ton of use and does the trick beautifully without any broken bits afterwards.
 

 

Us lurkers like this kind of thread, too.  Thanks for posting. 

Thank you both! The support on this forum is incredible, when even the guy who makes the blocks is there to help! 
 
I’m going to try and modify it to get rid of the paddles like Chuck’s. Even when I threw in normal blocks it jammed them against the sides and chipped the paddles.
 
Sir, you’ve got another block order coming tonight. Let’s try this again!

I used to use Xacto exclusively but after more than one episode of it rolling off the bench and onto the floor, or worse, onto a thigh, when it comes to blade holders I went to flat handles.   Saws and other attachments are not a problem for me with the Xacto, but definitely not scalpel blades.  My go to is Swann Morton handles and blades but there are others that are similar.
Allan

Short answer: Yes, you are. This area of the forum is specifically for discussing issues related to how the forum works. We used to have (and occasionally still do) members posting questions here about some particular modeling topic; those questions should be posted in the appropriate area of the forum. So, here's some examples:
 
"I can't figure out how to change my avatar." (Goes in the "How to use the MSW forum" area.)
 
"How do I shape the first layer of planking?" (Does NOT go in the "How to use the MSW forum" area.)