Chuck Seiler

Hi Allan,
 
It's on the front page sidebar. 
 

 

Pavel Nikitin is an inspiration and a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness that all Ukrainians possess. If he ever releases something in 1/96 or 1/100 scale, i'm going for it. 
 
Soon the war will end, and the Blue and Yellow will wave victorious over an unbroken nation. When the guns go silent and the rebuilding commences, new opportunities to build a better nation will present themselves. And, I am sure, Ukraine will come away stronger and more prosperous than before. 

Chuck,
 
    What is the estimated size of this beastie?

Here is my summary along with pictures of my just completed model of the HM Brig-Sloop by Vanguard Models.  The kit itself, both quality of the materials and the accompanying instructions are superb! A number of build logs are have been done on this kit and thanks to them, I had some great hints and tips during the build of this project. Rather than add another build log ( I must admit at 70 years old and not very computer literate, the thought still intimidates me a bit) I've decided to add a few areas in which I diverged from the "out of the box" build.  Over-all, the project took me 650 hours to build.  Not sure if this about right or if I proceed at a snails pace.  I'm somewhat of a minimalist when it comes to tools.  An exacto handle with #11 blades, an old 12" Craftsman band saw and some small hands tools is about all I use.  For refences I used Steele's Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging (1794),Darcy Lever The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor (1819), Lees The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1869 (1979) and Ian McLaughlin The Sloop of War 1660-1763 (2014).
 
With that said, here are some areas in which I diverted from the original kit.  I know these comments are very brief, if anyone has any comments/questions please do not hesitate to ask.  I am by no means an expert so any comments are greatly appreciated.
 
Copper Plates: After a brief (but unsuccessful) try at using the kit supplied plates I decided to use 3M black back copper foil Venture Tape #3M1765 - 1/4" width. I had real trouble fitting the kit supplied plates at the bow and stern areas having to cut them to fit the curves. Using the copper tape, I created strips of 4 plates adding the rivet details lightly with a very small pounce wheel. The tape was thin enough to allow to to navigate the curves and the adhesive back was very strong so they stayed put once set in place.  I did use the kit supplied plates on the rudder assembly however as I did not have any issues fitting the plates at this location.  Once completed, I darkened the plates using Liver of Sulphur extended life gel by EuroTool that I found on EBay. Follow the instructions carefully.  Two notes of caution.  The stuff darkened the copper very quickly, almost on contact.  Have clean water and a soft cloth ready to neutralize and rinse off the solution. Once dry, I buffed out the copper using a soft dry cloth which brought out some highlights in the copper. And secondly, work outside unless you want your house smelling like rotting eggs!  
Rigging Line:  I decided to try my luck at making my own line using Syren Model's "Rocket" rope walk.  After trying to make the line using synthetic thread, I landed on using Gutterman 100% cotton thread Dark Brown #2960 and Taupe #1225 purchased thru WAWAK in NJ.  The synthetic thread stretched a bit and I couldn't get the feel for it.  When I cut the line, it shriveled up looking like a gypsy moth caterpillar on my work bench.  I also wasn't too keen on having to set the synthetic line in the toaster oven.  The cotton thread worked better for me and the "frizzies" associated with using cotton thread was minimal.  I did not finish the line with beeswax.  It left a whitish coat which was especially visible on the darker standing rigging.
Sails:  The most difficult aspect of this model was in the making of the sails.  Many of the line controlling the sails was not included in the instructions/belaying plans.  I referred to the references mentioned above.  And yes, I am sure I made a number of mistakes that many more experienced will notice but the important thing is to learned a lot and aim to get better with each model.  The sail material is two layers of Silkspan purchased thru Bluejacket.  I am not sure what weight it is as they only offer one weight.  I added the sail details using a #2 mechanical pencil (sail outline with 3/16" hem, reinforcement points, etc) before laminating the two sheets together.  I used a frame and taped the two sheets together prior to laminating.  I used a 10 to 1 ratio of water to white Elmer's glue then added some Tamiya "Dessert Tan"  to the mix to give the material an antique tan color.  The biggest problem I ran into were wrinkles in the fabric.  Had to make several sails over and the finished product still has some small wrinkles in them.
The bolt ropes, reef points and cringles were glues on the sails afterwards using matte medium which dried clear.
Flags:  I made the flags by first downloading the files from Google.  Since I was going for an earlier time period than when Lord Cochran was Master and Commander, I used the white ensign as Speedy worked primarily in anti smuggling operations in the home waters during the first part of her career.  Try to find as high a resolution in the files as possible.  I then taped a piece of silkspan over a piece of white 8.5 x 11 paper and ran it thru the desktop printer.  It might take several tries, but with the silkspan, the ink goes right thru the material and you get a double sided flag.  Once cut to size ( I left a tab on the ensign side to fold over to create a reinforcement point when attaching the halyards) I finished the flag off with spray on matte fixative and let dry.  While it is drying you can work the flag to give it more of a curl as when flown in a breeze.
Sailors & Marines:  These were purchased thru Vanguard Models and are exceptionally detailed which makes them a bit more easier to paint when you can see the crisp details.  I used Tamiya acrylic colors dusted with pastel chalk to bring out some details.  The figures were then topcoated in matte clear lacquer.
Display Stand:  Rather than use the clear acrylic cradle which comes with the kit, I used the acrylic pieces as templates and fabricated anew cradle in 1/4" solid walnut. I lined the inside face of each cradle with green felt.  The base of my display case is white ash with walnut trim.  The case itself is fabricated from 1/4" acrylic and siliconed together.
 
Thanks if you reached this far in the reading.  I hope this helps many of the newer members of our hobby.  I recommend this kit to anyone as it build into a very beautiful model!
 
 

It's great when a supplier is AHEAD of schedule. 

It's great when a supplier is AHEAD of schedule. 

It's great when a supplier is AHEAD of schedule. 

Agree particularly with number 2.  The Minwax & Varathane stains I am familiar have a consistency similar to mineral spirits.  Unlike paint, there is no obvious build up on the surface  of the wood.
 
How would a layer of anything, measured in microns, appear out of scale?

Am I hearing this correctly?-
 
1.  If I intend on staining all or part of a model's hull I need to stain the planks BEFORE I affix them to the frames/bulkheads?
 
2.  A coat of Minwax stain is thicker than paint and therefore is out of scale?
 
    I'm skeptical on both.

A paint or oil finish is a surface application whereas a stain penetrates the wood, so you can stain and gently sand when dry etc.
I use stain because I like the natural grain effect. It's not to scale but MBMR wins every time  
Glued wood will not take a stain so I always stain first and touch up with a similar tone of paint.
Personally I would steer clear of oil  or anything oil based unless you use nothing else.
As to scaled painting: thin thin thin. 

It all depends on just which products you are calling a stain. 
If it is a commercial product in the US and it is labeled as being a Stain - think surface product - a wood shade pigment in a binder that is thin enough to let some grain show thru.  It may also include a dye component,  but a commercial product = Stain - is intended to be used on a 1:1 scale object.
This is not an especially favorable product to have in the way of a bonding surface.
 
If it is a true solution.  a pigment - in alcohol or water - or a dry powder that you get into solution -  and a solution does not need mixing or shaking - it is a single unit that requires a physical action to separate -
it goes into the wood - it becomes part of the wood - it does not affect a glue bond.
 
We need to be on the same page as far as the definition of the terms.  
 
Chuck :  a commercial STAIN - would probably have an unfavorable outcome if that is used before bonding.  
A dye has very little surface tension. it runs everywhere.  if you have adjacent planks with different colors dying after bonding and avoiding bleed over would be difficult.
 
OllieS :   if the UK terms a dye as being a stain - you are correct -  but  noun stain  and verb stain  are causing confusion.
 
Chuck :
An oil finish -   does leave layer on a primed surface.
A primer can be a coat of half saturated shellac or half saturated oil.  It fills the pores and voids in the wood.  follow on coats stay on the surface.  Unless the coat is too thick or the oil has deteriorated - it then polymerizes and is a layer - one big single unit.  How thick the layer is depends - on the volume applied - which oil it is - 
I think the thickest is polyurethane -  but then polyurethane is a true synthetic plastic -  it might as well be polyethylene - polyvinyl - polypropylene - etc  a better living thru chemistry sort of thing
 
 
 

Am I hearing this correctly?-
 
1.  If I intend on staining all or part of a model's hull I need to stain the planks BEFORE I affix them to the frames/bulkheads?
 
2.  A coat of Minwax stain is thicker than paint and therefore is out of scale?
 
    I'm skeptical on both.

The Continental Galley Washington was a lateen-rigged, two-masted row galley built in the autumn of 1776 on Lake Champlain at Skenesboro N.Y. On October 6 1776, she joined the small fleet established and commanded by Brigadier General Benedict Arnold. The fleet consisted of schooners Royal Savage, Revenge and Liberty. Also the sloop Enterprise, and 8 gundalows outfitted as gunboats: New Haven, Providence, Boston, Spitfire, Philadelphia, Connecticut, Jersey, New York, and the cutter Lee. Washington was among three galleys  built, the others being the Congress and Trumbull.

A Sketch of the New England Armed Vessels, in Valcure Bay on Lake Champlain
as seen in the morning of 11 October 1776 A Contemporary watercolor drawing
of the American line of battle by Charles Randle. In the drawing Washington is
shown as the second ship from the left.
 

IIRC, British admirals were graded by seniority (Rear, vice full) and within grade (red, white, blue).  At Trafalgar, Nelson was vice admiral of the white.  Ships directly under the command of that admiral would fly the admiral's colour.  Since ships operating independently and squadrons under command of a non-admiral worked for a particular admiral or area commander in chief, they would fly his colour.

IIRC, British admirals were graded by seniority (Rear, vice full) and within grade (red, white, blue).  At Trafalgar, Nelson was vice admiral of the white.  Ships directly under the command of that admiral would fly the admiral's colour.  Since ships operating independently and squadrons under command of a non-admiral worked for a particular admiral or area commander in chief, they would fly his colour.

IIRC, British admirals were graded by seniority (Rear, vice full) and within grade (red, white, blue).  At Trafalgar, Nelson was vice admiral of the white.  Ships directly under the command of that admiral would fly the admiral's colour.  Since ships operating independently and squadrons under command of a non-admiral worked for a particular admiral or area commander in chief, they would fly his colour.

If you are ever in the St Michaels, Maryland area I would recommend a visit to the CBMM (cbmm.org).  There are loads of Chesapeake water craft from Bugeyes to log canoes to examine.  There also are several interactive areas that entertained our 11 year old granddaughter.  

That would be nice, but it would take hours of work that doesn't generate any revenue. With the state of the economy, it's just not practical.

Hi,
 
I am looking to buy a 18 inch Byrnes Table Saw. I have not used one for many years and have never owned one, however I would like your advise as to what parts I should buy with the basic saw to make it perfect for scratch building. i am looking to eventually build a first rate in 1/48 scale and will be ripping my own planks for decking and hull. As I live in the UK getting all the parts in one go makes sense due to custom and postage costs. Can anyone please tell me what Should i buy :-
Sliding Table     Auxiliary Tilting Table     Extended Rip Fence     Miter gage Adjustable Extension ]     Rip Taper Gage     Micrometer Stop - inch     Micrometer Stop - Metric     Miter Bar     Zero-Clearance Insert
4in. Carbide Blade 24-tooth - .055 kerf     4in. Carbide Blade 36-tooth - .055 kerf     4in. Martindale 110T-.04 kerf Slitting Blade (recommended for use with the Tilt Table)     3 in. Martindale 90T-.04 kerf Slitting Blade     3in. Martindale 90T-.03 kerf Slitting Blade [pic]     3in. Martindale 90T-.02 kerf Slitting Blade     3 in. Martindale 90T-.023 kerf Slitting Blade     3in. Martindale 90T-.028 Slitting Blade
Replacement Miter Gage for Saw     Replacement Belt     Accessory pack (Extra miter pin and all the removable screws)
 
Thanks in advance
 
Guy
     

I would buy the auxiliary pack and extra belt although I have used my Saw for many years without having to replace the belt.  The screws that hold down the insert plates are tiny and easy to lose.  I have the micrometer stop and always never use it.  I like the 3in 90 tooth blade for cutting wood.  I also have a very fine, sorry, I don’t know the tooth count, blade for cutting brass sheet and tubing.  I have a 10in table saw so don’t use the Byrnes saw for cutting heavy wood stock.  Zero clearance inserts are easily made from thin craft plywood.
 
Before you use the saw-  Paint the miter pin a bright color!  Mine is painted Day-Glow orange.  I have dropped it many times and would have lost it if it was not painted.
 
Roger

The mitre bar, extended fence are essential, the cross cut table is of great benefit and a must. Zero clearance inserts are handy, but I seldom use it. The 3 inch, 90T, .03 slitting blade is all I ever use. I’d get a couple of those. I have the micro meter stop and never ever use it.  I’ve had my saw since 2008 and never replaced the belt. The other might be useful, but not for me. 

Howdy!  And welcome aboard.

I just popped into the Hanthorn Cannery Museum (Astoria Oregon's other Maritime Museum), and found this title in their gift shop.  The gift shop is unstaffed with an honor system of payment, but for once someone was actually working there that day, so I had to pay actual money for it. The book is extensively illustrated, and not with the usual images one sees of these ships-- Marsh had access to the Oregonian's maritime columnist's personal images from his work during the war years, and the photos are outstanding and reproduced in the highest quality.  Despite the title, the book also covers Victory Ships, Casablanca Class flat-tops, and T-2 Tankers, also built by Kaiser yards in the area; a large section even includes other local companies supporting the effort such as Gunderson (Landing craft, etc.), Albina Engine and Machine Works (PCs, etc.), Commercial Iron Works (outfitting C-2s, etc.), Willamette Iron & Steel Co. (steam locomotives for Russia and misc. maritime work/outfitting), and Astoria Marine Construction Co. (YMSs [minesweepers]).   Hardbound at 256 pages; $50.00USD.      
 
Having just scratch built a variety of ships from this era with Portland connections (C-1, C-2, C-3, T-2, EC-2, VC-2), this book is a delight to have, though I might have to build a YMS and PC now . . .    It may not be the handiest resource for the modeler, but there are gems in the photographs, and the history is rich and compelling-- particularly for any interested in Pacific Northwest Maritime history.
 
Oh. . . the chap actually manning the gift shop that day?  The Author himself.   If you're local, pop by for the chance of a signed copy.

The WW2 ship building boom is the reason why my mother's side of the family wound up on the West Coast. My grandfather and one of his brothers trekked west from Kansas to work at the Kaiser yard in Vancouver.

I have attached all frames and am about to start the planking.  The non-cant frames look great and will not pose any future problem (I hope).  The cant frames DID take some patience.  If I were to do this again, I would NOT make the cant frames in the provided jigs and, instead, make them off model and install when the rest of the frame is in the framing jig.
 
These frames must be beveled on both sides to accommodate (a) the eventual planking and (b) attachment to the keel/tab.  The bottom of frames 1 and 24 are extremely small and required much care in sanding.  Once I could seen EXACTLY what kind of bevels I needed, the task became easier.
 
That being said, it does take patience, but not much more than you would need to correctly make any model.  This certainly is not a slap-it-together model...but I think the end result will be well worth it.