Chuck Seiler

The micro drill bits Mark is talking about run from size 60 (largest) to 80 (smallest).  I tend to mostly use 72 and 76, which (coincidentally) are the years I graduated from high school and college.  I normally work in 1/64 or 1/72 (or there abouts) and they work well for me for eyebolts and such.
 
    I get mine on Amazon.

The micro drill bits Mark is talking about run from size 60 (largest) to 80 (smallest).  I tend to mostly use 72 and 76, which (coincidentally) are the years I graduated from high school and college.  I normally work in 1/64 or 1/72 (or there abouts) and they work well for me for eyebolts and such.
 
    I get mine on Amazon.

Get the below set of wire bits sizes 61 to 80 and you'll be covered up to around a 64th of an inch. Then buy a small set of bits between a 32nd or 16th of an inch and a half inch and you should be well covered. The Rogers bit set pictured below gives you one bit for each size in a handy covered drill index, but you will break them every so often, so you need to have spares on hand.  It's worth the price, though, because you get a nifty drill-index for them which is definitely handy for keeping your "in use" bit separate from your new bit stock. (The do dull with use over time and you don't want to mix up your dull ones with your sharp ones in the tubes.) Get on Model Expo and MicroMark's email lists (sign up on their websites.) When one of them has a sale on mini-drill bits, which will come in tubes holding ten of the same size, buy one of each size. (Sometimes the prices are as low as half-off.)  Better yet, buy the second set pictured below which has tubes of ten bits each of the same size ranges in a nice case.
 
https://www.micromark.com/The-Rogers-Drill-Bit-Set-61-80-Set-of-20?msclkid=312a1cafe1631f9090b778b70e4777de&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=NX_NTM_Shopping_Segregated&utm_term=4576442278804873&utm_content=Drill Bits
 

 
 
https://www.pjtool.com/542-100-pc-micro-drill-bit-set-with-pin-vise-drill.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=numbered micro drill bit set&utm_content=Tool- PLA- Shopping&utm_campaign=Tool- PLA- Shopping&msclkid=b9a9d42bc2af16550898b0332a96c

 
The boxed set also contains what appears to be a decent pin vise to go with them. These small bits won't survive use in a high speed rotary tool, so you'll get a lot of use out of the pin vise which has four collet chucks inside it to properly hold the full range of bit sizes in the set. (Or you can spend a few bucks more and treat yourself to a nice set of top of the line Starrett pin vises.
 
Starrett Pin Vise Set, 0.010-0.200, Taper, 4Pc S240Z | Zoro

 
 

Depending on what glue you used, once you are comfortable around ship models, you can either try to correct the mistakes with some sanding and applying a thin second layer of planking or simply loosen the glue, remove the wood that is causing the problem and start over. I have never done that, but I have seen people on this site and on other sites who have revisited projects, removed bad work and made things turn out well. 

Nu, unless you developed a magnetic attraction for the subject.
 
I wrote that to make a point. 
The point is:
with a wood ship model kit, all is never lost if you make a mistake. With wood, the same (or most often) better components can be self manufactured.  The barrier to scratch is more imaginary than real, unlike with a kit of molded plastic pieces,  

I heartily agree with Cap'n Birdseye in his recommendation.  While it might not be a "first model" it makes a good early learning model.  If done well, it can be a good presentation model as well.   I would recommend substituting Alaskan Yellow Cedar for basswood planking.

I heartily agree with Cap'n Birdseye in his recommendation.  While it might not be a "first model" it makes a good early learning model.  If done well, it can be a good presentation model as well.   I would recommend substituting Alaskan Yellow Cedar for basswood planking.

Now that the St. Paddy's Day beer has worn off...
 
    I checked my pieces-parts, and it appears (with my kit) if you install the parts in the jig as directed (left and right futtocks) frame 19 is face up while frames 20 and 21 are face down.
 
    Anybody else with the kit, please confirm or refute these findings.

When the frames go in, the floor futtock is always forward of the first futtock.  The first futtock goes into the frame assembly jig first and the floor futtock on top of these.  Since the frames taper towards the ends of the boat, the tapers should be towards the "floor" side of the frame in the bow and the "First futtock" side in the stern.  With this in mind (if I have figured it out correctly) the side of the frame pieces with laser markings for sanding should be face down in the stern and face up in the bow.
 
    The frame parts SHOULD be marked in such a way to ensure this occurs.  Looking at the parts and how they are number (with left and right first futtock identified), it doesn't seem to be the case.  As I get closer to that step, I will look closer.
 
    In the middle frames, the taper is so slight, I don't plan on fairing until the frames are in place, so face up or face down is not important.  When the taper becomes severe, however, ensure bow frames are face up and stern frames are face down.

I heartily agree with Cap'n Birdseye in his recommendation.  While it might not be a "first model" it makes a good early learning model.  If done well, it can be a good presentation model as well.   I would recommend substituting Alaskan Yellow Cedar for basswood planking.

I heartily agree with Cap'n Birdseye in his recommendation.  While it might not be a "first model" it makes a good early learning model.  If done well, it can be a good presentation model as well.   I would recommend substituting Alaskan Yellow Cedar for basswood planking.

When the frames go in, the floor futtock is always forward of the first futtock.  The first futtock goes into the frame assembly jig first and the floor futtock on top of these.  Since the frames taper towards the ends of the boat, the tapers should be towards the "floor" side of the frame in the bow and the "First futtock" side in the stern.  With this in mind (if I have figured it out correctly) the side of the frame pieces with laser markings for sanding should be face down in the stern and face up in the bow.
 
    The frame parts SHOULD be marked in such a way to ensure this occurs.  Looking at the parts and how they are number (with left and right first futtock identified), it doesn't seem to be the case.  As I get closer to that step, I will look closer.
 
    In the middle frames, the taper is so slight, I don't plan on fairing until the frames are in place, so face up or face down is not important.  When the taper becomes severe, however, ensure bow frames are face up and stern frames are face down.

I found this on Facebook.
 
"Stillingfleet. Yorkshire. The church is Norman. The ironwork hinges and decoration on the south door date to much earlier, probably to the middle of the 10th century when York formed part of a Viking kingdom. That would mean that either there was a church here several centuries earlier than was thought, or, more likely, that the door was brought here from elsewhere."
 
  

The ship appears to be incomplete - by rights it should have an upcurving bow similar to the stern, but it's presumably been lost over the centuries.
 
Steven

Hi LegoKing,
Several others have already commented on the tools needed to start off with, and I'm probably duplicating what some of them have written, but I've found it's amazing how few tools are really necessary to get started on ship modelling.
 
I wouldn't even think of getting machine tools to start with, except possibly a drill. Plenty of time for that when you find the need for them. In the meantime, I'd suggest a good coping saw, a craft knife or a scalpel with exchangeable blades (a No. 11 blade is the best for modelling, I find). LOTS of clamps - *LOTS* of clamps, of all possible sizes from tiny to fairly big. One of those green cutting boards, glue (I use PVA (white) glue, but others swear by CA (cyanoacetate = superglue - but watch out for the fumes) one of those headpieces with built-in magnifying lenses - you can get them at car supply places. Files and (SHARP!) chisels of various sizes.
 
When it comes to bending your planks, in the real world they use steam. But although there's some disagreement about whether you should wet or heat planks to bend them, apparently the heat is the important factor - it loosens the fibres in the wood and allows it to bend without breaking. You can get specialised bending tools, but honestly I find  a cheap soldering iron clamped in a vise (oh, yes, get a vise, too), and gently bending the wood around it works well - see picture below - (you can get really tight curves - those dimensions are in millimetres).

If you're building a kit rather than a scratch build, much of the preliminary work (such as getting thin wood for planks) is done for you. The other advice I'd give is to start simple - don't buy a kit of HMS Victory - too many people start out with great enthusiasm but get discouraged by the complexity of their first build. There are really good kits of such things as longboats - see https://modelshipworld.com/.../18657-new-to-ship.../ . Oh, and a good workspace (doesn't have to be big) with good light and where you can safely keep the model "set up" in between modelling sessions. Good luck, and have fun with it!
 
Steven

I strongly agree with Vossy.  If new to wooden ship modeling, jumping in with scratch builds can be overwhelming.  Check out the topic "New to ship modelling? But what do you build first? " to get an idea of first time builds.  While these first time builds are not all that glamorous, they give a feel for how the wood works and insight into the various techniques.  I respectfully disagree with Gregory about the 16th Century Longboat.  I found that to be more advanced in that you need to be near the top of your game with your planking.  LIttle room for error.
 
    ....but your question was about tools.  Some of the tools I find most valuable are; Dremel or similar rotary tool, #11 Exacto knife or similar surgical scalpel, sand paper/sanding sticks (I use finger nail Emory boards and sandpaper glued to popcicle sticks), wood glue.  Clamps...you can never have too many clamps.  Acquire them as you need them.  Magnification.

In my experience, VERY few people can scratch build well right off the bat.  A friend of mine made a 6inch near-museum quality HMS VICTORY on his first build...but he had alot of skills.  It is better to practice on an inexpensive kit, where all the angles and dimensions are already figured out, that on a model you have spent much time, effort and passion on.
 
    Another option is the "18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit " sold by the Nautical Research Guild (NRG).  It is invaluable in terms of learning to plank properly and can be a great display model when complete.  Click on "NRG Home Page" at the top of the page.
 
    When scratch building in the manner you showed in above photos, I used Baltic birch craft plywood...usually 1/8 inch.  Available at MICHEAL'S, in hobby shops or online.

They are also a MSW sponsor.  You can find their link in the right hand margin.

I strongly agree with Vossy.  If new to wooden ship modeling, jumping in with scratch builds can be overwhelming.  Check out the topic "New to ship modelling? But what do you build first? " to get an idea of first time builds.  While these first time builds are not all that glamorous, they give a feel for how the wood works and insight into the various techniques.  I respectfully disagree with Gregory about the 16th Century Longboat.  I found that to be more advanced in that you need to be near the top of your game with your planking.  LIttle room for error.
 
    ....but your question was about tools.  Some of the tools I find most valuable are; Dremel or similar rotary tool, #11 Exacto knife or similar surgical scalpel, sand paper/sanding sticks (I use finger nail Emory boards and sandpaper glued to popcicle sticks), wood glue.  Clamps...you can never have too many clamps.  Acquire them as you need them.  Magnification.

I did the 3 Model Shipways kits since I had no experience with wooden models, built many plastic models but no wood.  With each one I learned a lot and gained basic and mid modeling skills.  I found the price very manageable.  Recommend you look at a few build logs on this site for any model you might be interested in building before buying. Also, start a build log for anything you do, since you can ask others for help.
The key is take your time, enjoy and realize that no one will notice any flaw but you, good modeling.

In my experience, VERY few people can scratch build well right off the bat.  A friend of mine made a 6inch near-museum quality HMS VICTORY on his first build...but he had alot of skills.  It is better to practice on an inexpensive kit, where all the angles and dimensions are already figured out, that on a model you have spent much time, effort and passion on.
 
    Another option is the "18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit " sold by the Nautical Research Guild (NRG).  It is invaluable in terms of learning to plank properly and can be a great display model when complete.  Click on "NRG Home Page" at the top of the page.
 
    When scratch building in the manner you showed in above photos, I used Baltic birch craft plywood...usually 1/8 inch.  Available at MICHEAL'S, in hobby shops or online.

They are also a MSW sponsor.  You can find their link in the right hand margin.

Decided not to wait until I was finished with other projects to begin working on this kit. I have looked at several construction videos on youtube which make the construction look straightforward and easy,  but not it appears if you are heavy-handed and fat-fingered like myself. I thought I would be careful by dry-fitting the components of the first jig before gluing it together. I immediately had a problem as the tabs did not fit easily into their corresponding slots without a little pre-sanding. After a while, I gave up on the idea of dry fitting first and began the disassembly of the jig. It did not come apart easily due to the tight fit of some parts and I was too rough and clumsy and ended up breaking two of the long MDF parts at their weakest (thinnest) points.  I HATE MDF as I had similar issues with the MDF parts in my Fifie frame build, let alone the toxic dust when sanding the stuff. Unfortunately, it seems that the newer kit manufacturers are using more of it. For dimensional stability and cost, I assume. However, it seems to be subject to breakage in situations where real wood would just naturally flex, and pin holding ability in what would be the equivalent of end grain in real wood. I then managed to glue together the first jig with some minor damage caused by my being too heavy-handed with my hammer when trying to force a few stubborn tight-fitting parts instead of recognizing when I was getting into trouble and backing off when I should have. Anyway, I managed to complete the first jig, glued up the keel components after removing the laser char, and began construction of the individual frames. The frame pieces have laser markings to guide you in sanding for the hull fairing (which is a nice feature) however it takes some thought when assembling each frame to know how to orient the parts correctly when gluing up each frame in its jig. Hope I'm doing it right. An additional laser mark on the part or instructional note on which end goes down first in the jig would make the process less error-prone. They say a picture is worth a thousand words and the construction diagrams save needing to have instructions in multiple languages, but I believe there are situations where a combination of both is needed.  I have similar issues with the instruction manual for my Amati Fifie kit where there are lots of step-by-step photos but not enough verbiage to complement the photos, leaving some steps unclear and ambiguous. Anyway, enough of my rantings, here are some photos of my progress thus far.
 

 
 

In my experience, VERY few people can scratch build well right off the bat.  A friend of mine made a 6inch near-museum quality HMS VICTORY on his first build...but he had alot of skills.  It is better to practice on an inexpensive kit, where all the angles and dimensions are already figured out, that on a model you have spent much time, effort and passion on.
 
    Another option is the "18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit " sold by the Nautical Research Guild (NRG).  It is invaluable in terms of learning to plank properly and can be a great display model when complete.  Click on "NRG Home Page" at the top of the page.
 
    When scratch building in the manner you showed in above photos, I used Baltic birch craft plywood...usually 1/8 inch.  Available at MICHEAL'S, in hobby shops or online.

I will attempt to get the book at some point. thanks for the suggestion, Rich. since Allanyed seems to have jumped right into scratch building I think I will attempt to continue with what I have started before getting a kit. but for when I do get a kit can you guys suggest like a really cheap kit for practice. I don't want to spend a lot of money on something that's for practice.

Yes it can, but not necessarily.   If I had to start over I would probably wait until I could afford a kit, specifically the the Grand Banks dory but I had neither the money nor the choices we have today so it was jump in with both feet and a few hand tools.   
 
Look at the kit build logs for the simpler builds, then decide what suits your needs.  Your location in the world may affect your decision on which kit to get as shipping time and costs can be a factor.
 
One other thing that many members miss out on.  There are many great tutorials in the Articles Database here at MSW that can of great benefit in how to do some things, and as importantly, what not to do.
Allan