Chuck Seiler

O.K., Call me indecisive. 
 
When I was clicking through small vises at amazon, I was presented with this.
 

BACHIN Rotary Table  $57.59
Check out the video for an idea of the working parameters.
Decent ( cheap ) mini-vises  + an X-Y table were pushing if not exceeding that price point.
 
I feel this will give better control than moving a vise around on an X-Y table, and the movement range should be adequate for my needs.
  I won't have it until Saturday, so won't have an update until then.

I will be very interested to see what you come up with.  Some of these on Amazon are being sold with a little plastic vice that looks pretty lame.    Thanks for you valuable research!

Did you attach a vice to it, or s all your work free standing?

TWO WEEKS LATER...  Have you had opportunity to use the press more since last posting?  Any further revelations?

I'm working on putting together a small vice and X-Y table.   I will need to elevate the drill press.
 
Hope to post update soon.

Did you attach a vice to it, or s all your work free standing?

TWO WEEKS LATER...  Have you had opportunity to use the press more since last posting?  Any further revelations?

Have not used it a lot, but have not uncovered any concerns.   I feel it is well made, and have not detected any play in the mechanism.
 
I don't foresee doing any work with it that would tax it to any extent. 
 
If you have any specific task you would like for me  to attempt,  I would give it a shot if I have the materials available.  I think I might be limited by the quality of my bits.
 
I have no reservations about recommending it to anyone who could see this fitting into their work environment.
 

I don't anticipate doing any work that can't be done with the 1/8 shank micro drills, and I have them at least as small as #81.

Thanks Richard, I'll try the PVA.

 
Yeah, seeing the pinging PE in your build was my prompt to have some ready-made chain on hand.

Welcome to the club! 🙂🙂

Your boat's looking very good.
 
I've pulled ropes until the slack is taken out then applied PVA to the rope to stiffen it. This usually works. CA will certainly stiffen the rope, but also hardens it and I've had thin lines break because of that. 
 
Cheers

More progress to report, the anchor and

 
... lee boards have been added to the shallop.


These are supposed to be attached by a short chain, built up from supplied PE.  Each link is about 1 1/2 mm long, with no spares for modeller error.
Well, inevitably, the first link I cut disappeared into the ether, never to be seen again.

I decided to use ready-made chain instead (18 links per inch).
This did involve a bit of fettling, but works in 'prototype' fashion:


Starboard view, lee board retracted:

 
 
Port view, lee board deployed:


The concern here is the slack rope, where that board is supposed to be heavy.
Has anybody any suggestions for showing that with suitable tension? (Or slack under gravity.)

My error.  You mentioned you were working with 1/32" material and my thought was you needed a blade smaller than that.  I missed the fact that you wanted to make dadoes...which would have required the 1/32 blade.
 
Personally, I use slotting blades because that is what the saw originally came with.  They work for me and I am a creature of habit.

The decks are not shown in those drawings, so you would need another source to provide that information.
 
When you say " false keel " are you referring to the center longitudinal  piece of a plank on bulkhead model?  To establish the slots, you will first have to establish the deck/s ...

My error.  You mentioned you were working with 1/32" material and my thought was you needed a blade smaller than that.  I missed the fact that you wanted to make dadoes...which would have required the 1/32 blade.
 
Personally, I use slotting blades because that is what the saw originally came with.  They work for me and I am a creature of habit.

The blade you want will be dependent on your saw.  I don't see where you mentioned it.  The blade(s) would be dictated by arbor size and how much of the blade will stick up above the table.  I have a Byrnes Saw and can use a 1.5 inch blade...maybe even 1 inch.  I say that because with 1/32" material you will want a very thin blade but it need not stick up above the table much.
 
The link for MALCO Gregory gave above is where you need to go.  I am currently looking at "HIGH SPEED STEEL" "JEWELER"S SLOTTING SAW".  Blade # JS114006120 is 1.5 inch diameter and .006 inches thick (.15 mm).  There is a large selection to chose from. 
 
https://www.malcosaw.com/product/js114006120/
 

Hi, Al.
 
I have a couple of suggestions. I have passed these on to other manufacturers in the past, but you know how it goes -- every company has their preferred niche, and man hours for development aren't unlimited. I know BlueJacket has a passion for subjects from the Northeast, but the West Coast has no comparable modeling enterprise bringing their indigenous designs to market, so it'd be nice if someone did something about that. Here are some ideas, in no particular order:
 
1. A West Coast salmon troller.

 
2. The motor launch Madaket. Last surviving vessel of the Coggeshall Launch & Tow Company and one of the few surviving vessels of her type.

 
3. The lumber schooner C A Thayer -- last surviving lumber schooner. Currently berthed at San Francisco Maritime NHP. She was recently completely overhauled, so someone has good plans of her somewhere.

 
4. A scow schooner, e.g. Alma. Midwest Products used to make one, but it's been off the market for many years now.

 
5. Any three-masted barkentine. A lovely rig IMO, and under-represented in the hobby.

 
6. For an East Coast subject, how about the schooner yacht Coronet? Schooner yachts are another under-represented segment of the hobby, and Coronet has been undergoing restoration at the International Yacht Restoration School since 1995 (soon to be transferred to Mystic Seaport, if not there already).

 
Anyways, that's my short list.
 

My error.  You mentioned you were working with 1/32" material and my thought was you needed a blade smaller than that.  I missed the fact that you wanted to make dadoes...which would have required the 1/32 blade.
 
Personally, I use slotting blades because that is what the saw originally came with.  They work for me and I am a creature of habit.

There are two different Worlds and to help you we need to know which one that you are living in.
 
A.  Full sized table saw:  These typically use blades ranging in diameter from 7-1/2in to 12in.  Some hollow ground blades made for cutting veneer are as thin as 3/32in.  I have not encountered anything thinner.  
 
B.  Specialty Model Making Tablesaw (Proxxon and Byrnes).  These have either a 1/2in arbor or it’s metric equivalent.  These saws can use blades sold for cutting metals by machine tools.  These are often called slotting blades.  These blades usually have a diameter of 4in or less.  A commonly used blade is available as follows:
 
Diameter  3in
No of teeth. 93
Arbor hole size 1/2in
Width. .030in.
 
Much thinner blades are also available
 
Roger

Did you see Kurt's answer above?
 
I really don't have any idea..  I was just trying to find the kerf you were looking for.

If you follow the plans, yes.  I will use the scheme in post #13 (6 Jan).

Will I be mounting sails?
A mainsail, maybe.  I have some teabag paper for the purpose (can't get SilkSpan over here).
No foresail though. They rarely appear in the Willem van de Velde paintings, there'd be more space for peering round the boat, and it'd add a talking point.

Trouble is, I'd need to 'recruit' a crew in an uncommon scale (1/32).

The blade you want will be dependent on your saw.  I don't see where you mentioned it.  The blade(s) would be dictated by arbor size and how much of the blade will stick up above the table.  I have a Byrnes Saw and can use a 1.5 inch blade...maybe even 1 inch.  I say that because with 1/32" material you will want a very thin blade but it need not stick up above the table much.
 
The link for MALCO Gregory gave above is where you need to go.  I am currently looking at "HIGH SPEED STEEL" "JEWELER"S SLOTTING SAW".  Blade # JS114006120 is 1.5 inch diameter and .006 inches thick (.15 mm).  There is a large selection to chose from. 
 
https://www.malcosaw.com/product/js114006120/
 

The blade you want will be dependent on your saw.  I don't see where you mentioned it.  The blade(s) would be dictated by arbor size and how much of the blade will stick up above the table.  I have a Byrnes Saw and can use a 1.5 inch blade...maybe even 1 inch.  I say that because with 1/32" material you will want a very thin blade but it need not stick up above the table much.
 
The link for MALCO Gregory gave above is where you need to go.  I am currently looking at "HIGH SPEED STEEL" "JEWELER"S SLOTTING SAW".  Blade # JS114006120 is 1.5 inch diameter and .006 inches thick (.15 mm).  There is a large selection to chose from. 
 
https://www.malcosaw.com/product/js114006120/
 

It is coming along nicely.  I am about at that stage mow and am studying the plans before I start rigging in earnest.  There is at least 1 block assembly that needs to be placed on the mast before the shrouds and forestay are rigged.  I don't recall if the rigging plan mentions that.
 
Will you be mounting the sails?  I don't plan on sails, myself, and I am trying to figure out how to handle the lines that would normally be attached to the sails...like the one running thru the slot on the mast.