Landlubber Mike

Hello,
 
as I have always to say, but sometimes forget, thank you for your likes and comments. I really appreciate them. 
 
Mark, I think also that this drawing is the best source for me. There changed so much in the later years, just to get the ships cheaper. That with the waterway I did't noticed till you mentioned it. But I did't know if it's right or wrong. May be that is also such a change. Then when it's work, it's ok.
 
The last days I was not really busy. I just build the under construction for the waist rail and started with planking the room from the channel wales to the top. 
 

 

Siggi,
That is a beautiful hooked scarph joint in the last photo!
 
Mark

Danny thanks very much for that.  Was good to see that is the case!
 
https://www.sherlinedirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1520&CFID=143721392&CFTOKEN=15985857
 
 

Thanks Bill - I've been meaning to get one but have been waiting to see it go on special.  Forgot to check this month, so thank you!
 
Good to know that you can use the display for both the mill and the lathe.  Saves a bunch of change.

Mike, don't forget that you'll need TWO DRO sensor kits (but only one display). From memory they are the cheaper part of the setup.
 
Danny

Magnificent planking Mark!  I bet the planking will take a while, but the results will be well worth it if you take your time. How thin is the veneer?
 
Interesting looking at the stern of this ship.  Her stern is kinda close to my La Renommee which you commented on earlier today, though a more pronounced square tuck stern.  The tear drop at the bottom is quite nice.

This Sherline DRO is on sale this month at Sherline for anyone that is interested.  Usual disclaimer, no connection but just purchased one.

gunports fitted....reasonably pleased with them....the others are open gunports and will need finishing off.

Love the blue and the carvings.  Very nice job! 

Simon thank you - appreciate the kind words!  Thanks for that link on the Russian forum.  I came across it on Pontos’ log, but probably should look at it more often.
 
Mark, thanks for posting the plans.  I think the Euromodel LAR is a different ship from the one in the Ancre plans, and my guess is that the ship is a Swedish ship, and not a French one.   Apparently there’s been research out there suggesting that Admiral Paris made a mistake in copying over the Chapman plans and calling it the LAR. 

Ah... that would explain things. 

For folks building the kit, the cast metal pieces are pretty close to the Chapman plans (the kit plans shown below are exact replicas from Chapman).  There are some differences though, which people should be aware of.  For example, the upper tier of lights is the right dimension, but the kit is simplified in having a rectangular row, rather than slight curves as in the plans.  The gallery balcony railing is pretty close.  The quarter gallery lights are pretty much spot on.
 
What is a little off is the lower tier of lights/upper counter area, the wrap around section that goes to the quarter galleries, and the tafferel - all of which are smaller than the plans suggest:




 
They aren't off by much, but it's something to be on the lookout for.  My guess is that the tafferal can be bent outwards to widen it a bit at the sides.  What is tougher is the fact that the lower lights section of the stern is not as wide or tall as the plans.  I'm not sure the reason, but maybe it was intended to simplify things for the builder a bit.  It looks like builders have taken all types of approaches to make the cast parts work, since the plans and parts don't match up precisely.
 
In particular, I think that the lower half of the quarter gallery should extend further out as in the picture below.  I think you could use the cast part, but my guess from the Chapman plans is that one would need to add some filler under the cast metal piece to accomplish this.
 

So, I think I'm going to try scratch building the stern as much as possible.  It's complicated, and has taken me a lot of time to work through, but I think in the end I'll be a little happier.  Plus, I won't have to try to fill in caps between the cast metal pieces, open up the window panes, etc.

Some more progress - got the first seven strakes of first planking on, starting from the keel up.  

I also finished the upper stem blocks.  These took a little time because I wanted to make sure that not only would they provide support for the planking, but that they would also help keep the bowsprit in alignment.  Because the false keel is about 5.5mm in thickness but the bowsprit is around 8.5mm, I added some spacers to the blocks (hard to see in the pictures), with the correct bowsprit angle built in.  So, everything now fits like a glove and I won't have to worry about the bowsprit alignment.
 

Hi Hubac, thanks for looking in.  It's always harder to describe, but maybe this picture helps:
 

If you look at the circled area, you can see that the last bulkhead is not faired, with barely any area to glue the plank to.  To fair it will change the orientation of the planking considerably to a sharper upward angle.  I'll also likely have to fair the bulkhead or two immediately preceding it to ensure a continuous curve.  
 
Fairing the last bulkhead will also change the shape of the lower part of the counter shown in yellow below:
 

My guess is that highlighted area will flatten out a bit.  But maybe that's ok?  Looking again at the plans, seems like the same area is a bit flatter than what the lower part of the bulkhead is shaped like from the picture above:
 

Does that all make sense?  I guess I'm just trying to figure out whether to fair the bottom edge of that bulkhead - which will provide better support for the planking yet change the shape of the bottom edge of the bulkhead/counter -- or not fair it, but find some way of adding a better planking surface (for example, adding a thick strip to the bottom of the bulkhead and then fairing it to the aft line of the original bulkhead.
 
Sorry for the confusing question.  Hope this makes sense.

One question for everyone.  The stern is sort of a square-tuck stern, and not a round tuck as with others.  I think the last bulkhead provides the lower circular shape of the counter, but at the same time, I'm wondering if the bulkhead needs to be faired in order to accommodate the end of the planking runs into it.  If faired though, it seems like the counter shape will change.  Hopefully these pictures show what I'm trying to describe (it's the lower edge of this piece that the planking is suppose to terminate at:
 


 
Anyone else encounter this issue?  I'm trying to figure out whether I should fair the last bulkhead, or build it up a bit so that I can fair it to the edge the original bulkhead so that the end of the planks have something to sit on.
 
Thanks in advance!

For folks building the kit, the cast metal pieces are pretty close to the Chapman plans (the kit plans shown below are exact replicas from Chapman).  There are some differences though, which people should be aware of.  For example, the upper tier of lights is the right dimension, but the kit is simplified in having a rectangular row, rather than slight curves as in the plans.  The gallery balcony railing is pretty close.  The quarter gallery lights are pretty much spot on.
 
What is a little off is the lower tier of lights/upper counter area, the wrap around section that goes to the quarter galleries, and the tafferel - all of which are smaller than the plans suggest:




 
They aren't off by much, but it's something to be on the lookout for.  My guess is that the tafferal can be bent outwards to widen it a bit at the sides.  What is tougher is the fact that the lower lights section of the stern is not as wide or tall as the plans.  I'm not sure the reason, but maybe it was intended to simplify things for the builder a bit.  It looks like builders have taken all types of approaches to make the cast parts work, since the plans and parts don't match up precisely.
 
In particular, I think that the lower half of the quarter gallery should extend further out as in the picture below.  I think you could use the cast part, but my guess from the Chapman plans is that one would need to add some filler under the cast metal piece to accomplish this.
 

So, I think I'm going to try scratch building the stern as much as possible.  It's complicated, and has taken me a lot of time to work through, but I think in the end I'll be a little happier.  Plus, I won't have to try to fill in caps between the cast metal pieces, open up the window panes, etc.

Simon thank you - appreciate the kind words!  Thanks for that link on the Russian forum.  I came across it on Pontos’ log, but probably should look at it more often.
 
Mark, thanks for posting the plans.  I think the Euromodel LAR is a different ship from the one in the Ancre plans, and my guess is that the ship is a Swedish ship, and not a French one.   Apparently there’s been research out there suggesting that Admiral Paris made a mistake in copying over the Chapman plans and calling it the LAR. 

Hi Mike,
because Euromodel LR is also in my stash (for sale) I was gathering information about ship kit and possible build logs. I found one on Russian site and can be very useful. LINK: https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5116 . 
 
You are doing good progress and I like your attention to details.
 
 
 

Mike,
 
I'll dig out my copy of ANCRE's monograph and see if there's an insight like a planking diagram.
 
I don't know if this will help...  I'll look for a side view of the planking if you think it will help.
 

Hi Mark, your post came in as I was writing the one above.  I think you're right if you take a look at my pictures.  I see Hubac just wrote in too, and seems to be of a similar opinion.  I did reach out to Pete, but he didn't have the benefit of my pictures.  Hopefully he sees the pictures and advises on what he did on his LAR.
 
Thanks Hubac!  That was what I was thinking as well.  The angle would be very steep indeed, which is why I think adding material and fairing back to the lower edge of the aft side of the bulkhead makes the most sense.  
 
Appreciate too what you said about planking the counter first, and then adding the side planking.  I think what I'll do is complete the first planking, then plank the counter, and finish up with the second planking.
 
 

Magnificent planking Mark!  I bet the planking will take a while, but the results will be well worth it if you take your time. How thin is the veneer?
 
Interesting looking at the stern of this ship.  Her stern is kinda close to my La Renommee which you commented on earlier today, though a more pronounced square tuck stern.  The tear drop at the bottom is quite nice.

Thanks Pete!  I’ll take a look at things tonight and see what the lines end up looking like.  Glad to hear you’re almost fully up and running!

Thanks to both Marks!
 
Marktiedens, I believe the two decorative cast metal pieces the bottom of the counter.  Not sure if I will use them or try scratching my own.  That's going to be a tough thing to scratch since I think the area has a slight curve, and the decorative piece is fairly thick.  Will have to see about that.
 
Mtaylor, thanks for posting your Licorne.  It's good to see how the planking flows.  The LAR is a bit different in that the stern is a square tuck stern, whereas the Licorne is a round tuck.  The terms seem a bit reversed, but essentially the counter on the LAR is rounded at the bottom, whereas the Licorne is squared off.  Still good to see how the timbers flow though (and always good to see your gorgeous model), thank you!

For folks building the kit, the cast metal pieces are pretty close to the Chapman plans (the kit plans shown below are exact replicas from Chapman).  There are some differences though, which people should be aware of.  For example, the upper tier of lights is the right dimension, but the kit is simplified in having a rectangular row, rather than slight curves as in the plans.  The gallery balcony railing is pretty close.  The quarter gallery lights are pretty much spot on.
 
What is a little off is the lower tier of lights/upper counter area, the wrap around section that goes to the quarter galleries, and the tafferel - all of which are smaller than the plans suggest:




 
They aren't off by much, but it's something to be on the lookout for.  My guess is that the tafferal can be bent outwards to widen it a bit at the sides.  What is tougher is the fact that the lower lights section of the stern is not as wide or tall as the plans.  I'm not sure the reason, but maybe it was intended to simplify things for the builder a bit.  It looks like builders have taken all types of approaches to make the cast parts work, since the plans and parts don't match up precisely.
 
In particular, I think that the lower half of the quarter gallery should extend further out as in the picture below.  I think you could use the cast part, but my guess from the Chapman plans is that one would need to add some filler under the cast metal piece to accomplish this.
 

So, I think I'm going to try scratch building the stern as much as possible.  It's complicated, and has taken me a lot of time to work through, but I think in the end I'll be a little happier.  Plus, I won't have to try to fill in caps between the cast metal pieces, open up the window panes, etc.

Magnificent planking Mark!  I bet the planking will take a while, but the results will be well worth it if you take your time. How thin is the veneer?
 
Interesting looking at the stern of this ship.  Her stern is kinda close to my La Renommee which you commented on earlier today, though a more pronounced square tuck stern.  The tear drop at the bottom is quite nice.