Landlubber Mike

OHIO STATE FAIR FINE ARTS DISPLAY

I am proud member of the Shipwrights of Central Ohio model club.  Each year, the club reserves a table at the Ohio State Fair in the Fine Arts Building, to promote ship building and to display member projects. I attended this past Friday and brought my Niagara and some rigging tools and spent the afternoon rigging the ship for interested Fair Patrons. 

We had a number of folks come through the building.  For anyone that has done something like this, the predominate comment we receive from the public is that they don’t have the patience to do something like that. However, I was lucky to attract two young boys, about 12 years old, who watched me rig the Topmast Staysail Halliard. They hung out for over a half hour. They watched me strop the block, tie it to the Main topmast stay (I should have done that before I mounted the yards) and then run the lines through the blocks and tie them off to the pin rails.

They asked a number of questions, and watched with genuine interest in the project.  I gave them some suggestions on some styrene model kits, and may get one of them to join the modeling club with his father.

I have seen many posts on how we need to get younger people interested in our hobby. I never had a good answer to that question, but now I do. Getting out and doing some “field” work may have inspired some young boys to pick up this great hobby.

If you ever get a chance to do something like this, please consider it.  It is not easy to transport a work in progress (I spent the first hour fixing the block I knocked off of the spanker boom), and it does take some time. But from experience, it is the best way to get folks interested in this hobby.  

It was great to get back to working on the Niagara. The road trip gave me some well needed inspiration to forge ahead.
 
Here are a few photos.
 

Thank you Martin, Mike, and Bob, and for the 'likes'
For the Risers I have used the kit provided Limewood, basically because it is to be painted and will take the bends fairly easily to follow the sheer of the boat.
I had retained the bulkhead stiffening strips from earlier in the build and as these follow the sheer line, I pressed them into further service as a template for the Risers.

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Not too difficult to achieve the sheer curve using wet and heat, but there is a downward turn around the first two frames at the bow which is a little trickier to achieve.
According to the plan the top of the Risers are 8.5mm below the frame tops. I used a marked stick to check the levels as I fitted the risers.

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With one side fitted the second side was glued so far along the hull and temporary thwarts put into place so the level could be checked before the glue was completely set, so adjustment could be made if necessary, fortunately it wasn't.
Before painting I coated the Risers with sanding sealer to give a smoother surface and reduce the inevitable fuzziness of the Limewood.

9611
The frames below the Risers I varnished to take off the whiteness of the Limewood.
The small fore deck is also being fashioned, 8mm Boxwood strip is used for this.

9610

9606
I am thinking at present that I will leave the Foredeck and Thwarts in the natural Boxwood finish.
 
B.E.

BE, I can't believe I've missed your log.  Really great work so far, and I know I'll enjoy watching where you take this one.
 
Your planking looks great as usual.  I'm not a big fan of MS' use of basswood for the keel and bulkheads, as I've said on my Morgan log.  It's an easy wood to use as the first planking if you're double planking, but the softness, fuzzies, etc.  make it not a great wood in my opinion for outer planking.  Good move on your part to go with boxwood.

Here is one for you:
 

BE, I can't believe I've missed your log.  Really great work so far, and I know I'll enjoy watching where you take this one.
 
Your planking looks great as usual.  I'm not a big fan of MS' use of basswood for the keel and bulkheads, as I've said on my Morgan log.  It's an easy wood to use as the first planking if you're double planking, but the softness, fuzzies, etc.  make it not a great wood in my opinion for outer planking.  Good move on your part to go with boxwood.

Really nice work Daniel!

I've completed the outer hull first planking to the edge of the wale.  Nothing too difficult, but I did use a little filler here and there to address any low spots.  The one thing to note is that the plans, as well as the actual ship, show the area between the plankshear and wale as seven rows of planks.  This comes out around 14mm of space to plank, or 2mm per plank.  The planks given in the kit don't seem to match that width, so what I did was end up using five wider planks and one narrower plank for that section.  Once I get to the second planking, I'll cut the ebony planks in the widths I need to get seven rows of fairly equal widths.
 
 

 
This ship is different than a lot of ship kits you see out there as there is no independent row or rows of planking for the wales - instead, the wale line is demarked by a thicker line of planks that extend at the wale line and lower.
 

I've been taking my time in trying to get the stern right, as I think the stern tends to make or break a lot of models.  You can see from these pictures how curvy the stern is, and how the planks tuck around the transom and up into the counter.
 


The European kits I've worked on tend to use stern extensions and a counter piece to frame this area.  This kit (and it looks like other kits in the Model Shipways line), require you to create a framing block with a number of curves into it.  The plans are good in this regard, but it still is a little complicated if you're a relative beginner like myself and are working through it the first time.  To help others that are building the kit, here are top and bottom pictures of my block:
 

Here is how my stern looks at the moment.  I think I've managed to capture the curves pretty nicely, and the wale will run into the middle of the name board as you can see on the plans and on the pictures of the actual ship.  I used filler to help get the lines right, but being able to sand down the first planking should help as well.  Thanks for looking in!
 

Hi Mike -- I recall some discussion of transfer letters a while back in one of the Rattlesnake logs.  I can't remember which one, but it might have been JS Gerson's.  I'll check and get back to you.
 
Martin

The Morgan has lettering on both the upper hull near the stem in gold and on the transom in white.  The printer option is a bit awkward in that white doesn't print on paper, and either way, you are adding a strip of paper to the hull (and the blacks might not much up).  I certainly can't paint the letters either.
 
I've been thinking about these dry transfer letters from Woodland Scenics.  Has anyone used them?  They have Roman font in gold and white, which I think could work nicely.  I'm considering applying the decals prior to installing the various wood pieces to the model which should make things easier, though I'd have to be very careful not to accidentally rub them off while continuing work on the model.
 
DecalsGraphics
 
 

I've completed the outer hull first planking to the edge of the wale.  Nothing too difficult, but I did use a little filler here and there to address any low spots.  The one thing to note is that the plans, as well as the actual ship, show the area between the plankshear and wale as seven rows of planks.  This comes out around 14mm of space to plank, or 2mm per plank.  The planks given in the kit don't seem to match that width, so what I did was end up using five wider planks and one narrower plank for that section.  Once I get to the second planking, I'll cut the ebony planks in the widths I need to get seven rows of fairly equal widths.
 
 

 
This ship is different than a lot of ship kits you see out there as there is no independent row or rows of planking for the wales - instead, the wale line is demarked by a thicker line of planks that extend at the wale line and lower.
 

I've been taking my time in trying to get the stern right, as I think the stern tends to make or break a lot of models.  You can see from these pictures how curvy the stern is, and how the planks tuck around the transom and up into the counter.
 


The European kits I've worked on tend to use stern extensions and a counter piece to frame this area.  This kit (and it looks like other kits in the Model Shipways line), require you to create a framing block with a number of curves into it.  The plans are good in this regard, but it still is a little complicated if you're a relative beginner like myself and are working through it the first time.  To help others that are building the kit, here are top and bottom pictures of my block:
 

Here is how my stern looks at the moment.  I think I've managed to capture the curves pretty nicely, and the wale will run into the middle of the name board as you can see on the plans and on the pictures of the actual ship.  I used filler to help get the lines right, but being able to sand down the first planking should help as well.  Thanks for looking in!
 

I've completed the outer hull first planking to the edge of the wale.  Nothing too difficult, but I did use a little filler here and there to address any low spots.  The one thing to note is that the plans, as well as the actual ship, show the area between the plankshear and wale as seven rows of planks.  This comes out around 14mm of space to plank, or 2mm per plank.  The planks given in the kit don't seem to match that width, so what I did was end up using five wider planks and one narrower plank for that section.  Once I get to the second planking, I'll cut the ebony planks in the widths I need to get seven rows of fairly equal widths.
 
 

 
This ship is different than a lot of ship kits you see out there as there is no independent row or rows of planking for the wales - instead, the wale line is demarked by a thicker line of planks that extend at the wale line and lower.
 

I've been taking my time in trying to get the stern right, as I think the stern tends to make or break a lot of models.  You can see from these pictures how curvy the stern is, and how the planks tuck around the transom and up into the counter.
 


The European kits I've worked on tend to use stern extensions and a counter piece to frame this area.  This kit (and it looks like other kits in the Model Shipways line), require you to create a framing block with a number of curves into it.  The plans are good in this regard, but it still is a little complicated if you're a relative beginner like myself and are working through it the first time.  To help others that are building the kit, here are top and bottom pictures of my block:
 

Here is how my stern looks at the moment.  I think I've managed to capture the curves pretty nicely, and the wale will run into the middle of the name board as you can see on the plans and on the pictures of the actual ship.  I used filler to help get the lines right, but being able to sand down the first planking should help as well.  Thanks for looking in!
 

Well, I'm still planking the outside of the hull. I have two strakes left to do on either side. I've tried and tried again a few spiling techniques, most with unsatisfactory results. I think that at this scale some of them don't work as well, such as the tape method. I settled on my own way that has worked fairly well. It is similar to the tape method in only one way, which is instead of lying the tape on he hull with no side bending, you lie a wide strip of wood. Being wood, it would be very hard to edge bend. You clamp it in place on the hull, run a compass at the edge of the plank that fits into the bow or stern and cut along that line so that the plank fits in the rabbet when it is done. Make sure to thin the plank at this point. Now lie the plank back on the hull, WITHOUT the end in the rabbet  but still making the plank end directly below the above strake, not necessarily following the curve of the bow or stern. Make sure that there is space between the top edge of the wood strip and the bottom edge of the above strake. Double check that the space continues the whole length of the plank you are attempting to create, from bow or stern, all the way to the last bulkhead that the plank rests on. At this point, you should have a strip of wood on the hull that from a side view looks curved, but in actuality it is running its natural course along the hull. It should form a light U shape. Then run a compass along the edge of the strake, drawing that line onto the wood strip. Cut the wood strip on that line and test the fit. You may soak it for a few minutes and clamp in place. Once dry, mark where each bulkhead is on the plank. Now, with a divider, measure the width of the plank at each bulkhead and transfer that to the plank. Connect each transferred point on the plank with a line. Cut near the line and test fit again. Fine tune, add pencil on he bottom edge to simulate caulk, and finally glue. 


 
I will show you what I mean by the whole "strip on the hull making a U shape" in photos once I finish with the outer planking. Nearly there!
Until next time,

Hello all! This will be my build of the Continental Gunboat Philadelphia. A brief history of her is taken from the model shipways website. 
 
"Launched in August of 1776, the gunboat Philadelphia is the oldest American fighting vessel in existence. Part of the American fleet commanded by General Benedict Arnold, she sank on October 11, 1776 during the Battle of Valcour Island against the Royal Navy on Lake Champlain. She remained sitting upright in the cold waters of the lake until she was raised in 1935. Today, she’s on permanent exhibit at the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C., complete with 24-pound ball that sent her to the bottom. "
  Length 26-3/8”
Width 13-3/4”
Height 24-5/8”
Scale 1:24 (1/2” = 1 ft.)
 
The actual gondolas built by Benedict Arnold were armed with two nine pounders, one twelve pounder and a few swivel guns. Arnold's gondolas were around 53 feet long with 15 1/2 foot beam and 2 foot draft. 
 
An overview image from the website is the following. 

The first few steps were pretty simple. I removed the parts I needed for the keel, stem and sternpost and glued them together. The keel was very straight with no noticeable war page. I sanded most of the laser char off. 

The pieces of wood that form the rabbets are pretty simple to carve. I just used an Xacto blade and a sanding block. There are also the visible parts of the stem and sternpost a which get narrower towards the ends. I have yet to make these rabbets at the bow.
 
That's it for now. Thank you for looking in! 
 
 
 
 
 

After doing a fair bit of research on MSW and thinking critically about my abilities, I've settled on the USS Niagara as my first wooden model ship.  My experience with wooden models has been limited to RC planes and the tissue covered balsa variety.  I must say, laster cut parts are significantly better than the stamped balsa variety!
 
I began by constructing a building board out of 3/4" MDF.  To hold the keel perpendicular to the board I designed a frame and clamping system out of Makerbeam (a small extruded aluminum t-slot profile with 4 faces) and attached it to the board via countersunk holes through the back of the board.
 
 

Hello again...
 
the Berlin grows and grows. I am still busy with the standing rigging - just do a few things as it's still summer. But it takes good progress.
I am very pleased with all and see no difficulties around - but you have to understand the plan. It's a little bit confusing. But it's a challenge - and that's what counts.
 
Some pics as always...
Cheerio
Max

Hello my friends,
 
I am still alive... and was always working a little bit on my Fregatte Berlin. So it came as far that the masts are all prepared, the yards are shapened and I startet with the challenge I love almost the most - rigging. I attached some pics to show the progress. I decided at least to fix the sails to the model. It will be some fun I think. There are absolutely no complications so far. The plans give you some hints but the most is done with expierence and a good book (Wolfram zu Monfeld).
 
I repeat my opinion: The model of Fregatte Berlin by Corel is not suitable to beginners. You should have built two or three ships before you start this. But it's fun and a very good method to relax and fade away to an other "world".
 
That's it for today - will be back soon(er or later)
 
Cheerio
Max
 
Sorry for the wrong queue... I could not sort the pics in the correct way

Hello my friends
 
time for another update. I only can repeat what I said before - the work on the Berlin makes a lot of fun. It is really satisfying to see how everythings fits to eachother. Sure it's a challenge to get all the parts the way they should be - but it's a very calming kind of modelling. Building the beakhead was quite exciting with all the timber that has to be bent and curved. Also the carving was completely new to me.
 
If you follow the plans and look on some internet-sources to find advice you can get a really cute part. I try to build the belaying cleats by my own and not use the metal parts provided with the kit. I have to do some additional deck furniture but will soon be ready with this.
 
Next big challenge is to varnish the completed hull. It's always thrilling to see how the varnish works and that there are no bad spots... But it's still quite cold outside so I have to wait. I can only use any varnish in the garage but not inside the house... the dogs would get crazy (and the Admiral too )
That's it for today - as always: I attached some pics to show the status quo
 
Cheerio
Max
 
 

Its 2 am.   This is as far as I go.
 
Still a lot I would like to do but that's alright.  I did every thing I could with the time allotted and I'm happy with the result.  

Tha ks Mark and Popeye.  
 
Bob your absolutely right there's no sheer at all.  Might explain why the ladders dont quiet fit.  I'm certain the gun deck is a tad high too but all well.  Just building with what I've got at this point.  Its good being on a forum like this and being able to see these types of problems.  Makes us all better modelers in the long run.
 
To make up for this ships lack of sheer I've posted this little model.  Its got sheer to spare.  
 

My next build is the Hybrid battleship Ise. Converted in 1943/44 to a carrier ship, and half sunk in 1945 in Kure Harbour, Japan.
 
The class after the Fuso so there are a lot of similarities which will allow me to use the AOTS Fuso for reference.
 
During the build of Isuzu, I decided to do something much more complicated, lots more features. I would like to do an Aircraft Carrier and I like all the underlying lattice of beams, but you pay a lot of money for a flat top.
 
The Fujimi Ise offers the best of both worlds. Flight deck and cannons plus pagoda tower.
 
The prices and additions vary widely on this kit. You can get it for nearly $900 on Ebay!! I ended up getting it from Japan for $200 and arrived in OZ in a couple of days. Included were two separate photo etch sheets from Fujimi which seem to sell for around $100 each so I'm ahead. The Fujimi wooden deck is a bargain at $600 just for the deck. I went for the thrifty Artwox version.
 
I got the flyhawk upgrade, which mainly focuses on support struts, barrels and 12.7mm guns and 2D 25mm's.
 
The rear deck needs rails and turntables (not in any of the PE), the decks need lots of vents and other dandyfunk, and around 30 triple 25mms.
 
Opening the box it's fairly strait forward, but It's going to suck up a LOT of aftermarket to bring it up to a decent standard. There are some video's of her on Utube.

 

Ken,
 
As a result of seeing your posting of those four photos and then doing some research, I learnt quite a bit.
 
After a major re-fit, the Royal William was launched in 1719 but not commissioned and remained laid up until 1756. In 1746, the idea of cutting her down to 2.5 decks was considered but that was finally rejected in 1748. An Admiralty Order of 1755 ordered her to be reduced to 84 guns spread over three decks and she was finally re-registered as a second rate in 1757. She then notably saw service in the Seven Years' War (1757 - 1763).
 
Pete
 
 

Ken - I would be tickled pink to receive them !!!!!!!!!
 
Pete

Hi Pete.  Here's a shot of the quarter and stern galleries, I hope that the quality is good enough for you. I've had time to think about these plans and have come to the conclusion that they would be of more use to you than they would be to me. I'd probably just end up sticking them in my attic and they'd be lost to future modellers of the RW so I've have decided that when I've finished my build I'll send them to you, I'm sure that you'll make good use of them.
Ken
 

Hello Everybody.
 
Pete, Yes that's interesting research, it's good to know what one's making and as you said, in life there are always unexpected surprises.
 
A small update, I've re-made the capstan, for the third time!  Each time I look at the build I feel some things could be improved on from my original attempt but I'm getting better. Also the entrance ports and steps.
 
I've done the front, rails, catheads, bitts etc but need to sort some pictures for that before I post them.
 
Ken
 
 

I've completed the outer hull first planking to the edge of the wale.  Nothing too difficult, but I did use a little filler here and there to address any low spots.  The one thing to note is that the plans, as well as the actual ship, show the area between the plankshear and wale as seven rows of planks.  This comes out around 14mm of space to plank, or 2mm per plank.  The planks given in the kit don't seem to match that width, so what I did was end up using five wider planks and one narrower plank for that section.  Once I get to the second planking, I'll cut the ebony planks in the widths I need to get seven rows of fairly equal widths.
 
 

 
This ship is different than a lot of ship kits you see out there as there is no independent row or rows of planking for the wales - instead, the wale line is demarked by a thicker line of planks that extend at the wale line and lower.
 

I've been taking my time in trying to get the stern right, as I think the stern tends to make or break a lot of models.  You can see from these pictures how curvy the stern is, and how the planks tuck around the transom and up into the counter.
 


The European kits I've worked on tend to use stern extensions and a counter piece to frame this area.  This kit (and it looks like other kits in the Model Shipways line), require you to create a framing block with a number of curves into it.  The plans are good in this regard, but it still is a little complicated if you're a relative beginner like myself and are working through it the first time.  To help others that are building the kit, here are top and bottom pictures of my block:
 

Here is how my stern looks at the moment.  I think I've managed to capture the curves pretty nicely, and the wale will run into the middle of the name board as you can see on the plans and on the pictures of the actual ship.  I used filler to help get the lines right, but being able to sand down the first planking should help as well.  Thanks for looking in!