Landlubber Mike

Yeah not sure I'd do it with ebony, but 2mm pear wasn't bad at all to work with

Thanks Frank.  Since I'm going to cut my planking out of pear sheets, I'm going to try spiling. Because I'm going to copper the bottom, I actually don't have to spile all that many rows of planks.  It will also give me practice for my Lyme.  I'm studying Chuck's tutorial and the Model Expo pamphlet on planking also.
 
Thanks Per.  I'm not going to be using paint at all on the build, at least that's my goal, but I will use stains and dyes for colors.  I'm planning on staining the wales and planking under the wales down to the waterline in black.  The planking above will be a mixture of pear stained a bit darker brown, pear or boxwood stained blue for the friezes background, and I'll be using redheart for the uppermost section of the hull planking.  At least that's the idea right now

Hi Jason, thanks for checking in.  I was pretty happy using one layer of thicker planks for the wales, rather than go with two layers of planking.  One benefit is that you only have to do the planking once.  Another is that with two layers, you don't run into seeing slivers of the lower planking if the top layer of planks doesn't line up completely with the lower planks.
 
Being thicker, it takes a little more time shaping the planks, especially at the stem.  Beveling the planks is much more critical too so you don't have gaps between planks.

So I finally got the wales done.  I used 2mm pear planks, rather than two separate layers of 1mm planks.  I went ahead and used the planking pattern from TFFM, with a top row of straight planks, and the remaining two rows using top and butt planking.  The Swan class is very curvy, so I took my time with the planks.  All planks were soaked and pinned, and then when dry, beveled (bottom two rows) and shaped to fit (the stem end planks got an initial soaking and drying in the jig I posted earlier).  I originally thought about using the miter jig on my Byrnes table saw to cut the various top and butt planks, but since each of these planks were generally different in sizes and tapers, I cut and sanded them each by hand.
 

 
 
The stern end of the wales is a bit different from the wales on my Badger, which was a single plank and just ended along the side of the ship.  According to TFFM, the bottom aft end of the wales curves around and under the stern a bit.  After a few rounds of soaking and bending, I managed to get the last plank on using 2mm planks.  TFFM suggests, because of the shape, to take a thicker piece of stock and carve and sand it to shape - the approach Martin took on his Fly.  It didn't seem too tough with the 2mm planks.  The space under the planks will be filled when I add the hull planking in the area between the end of the wales and the stern counter.  Here it is after some rough sanding - I plan on eventually sanding it into a more pleasing curved shape.  I left the piece a little longer so it tucks probably a bit more under the stern than it should, but I plan to carve and sand it back probably a little bit.
 

 
 
So the wales are done, with the initial sanding.  Once the hull planking goes on, I'll do a final sanding with finer grades of sandpaper, and work the stern end of the wales a bit more to add a finer curve and end to it.  Took me a lot of time, but I think it's critical to get the wales in the proper position.  I actually redid the first row of the wales when the line wasn't a smooth run between planks.  Was frustrating at the time to do that, but, in the end, I'm glad I took them off and redid them as I think the current wales look a lot better.
 
Now for some fun spiling the lower hull planking!

OK a little bit of an update
Planking work is progressing extremely slowly.All boxwood planks have been glued with aliphatic resin but I have reverted to epoxy for the Ebony 'Black strake'.Slow going as it works out at four parallel planks from lower chainwale down to the black strake.These planks have to conform to the sheer and many compound curves of the hull.Some severe clamping techniques have been employed to allow this.Various 'dogs' have been spot glued to the hull allowing the use of wedges and 'stops' have been spot glued to get the planks to follow the sheer.These are only obechi so are easy to break off and sand flush.The pencil line represents the waterline,which is in abeyance yet as to whether I will splice the ebony/boxwood along this line.
Received my Brynes drawplate this week ,fixings will be boxwood on boxwood and copper on the ebony.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi all
 
I have done one cannon to see how it looks.
 
Washed it in Hydrochloric Acid 50% water 50% acid, washed in water for half an hour.
 
I then dried it off.
 
Got a cotton  bud and applied the Brass Black.
After 10 minute's I washed it in clean water.
Dried it off, then a second coat of brass black.
 
I am not that happy with what I have got,
 
I think I should have used fine wire wool before the first coat of brass black.
 
Will have to work on this one before I do more.
 
Denis.

Hi
 
Started the main deck cannons.
 
Denis.

I held the tooth picks in my Dremel & sanded them sharp on some sanding sticks- first coarse then fine. Just a dab of glue & stick it in the hole. I snipped them off with fingernail clippers. After sanding them down I am satisfied how they look. I just hope they wont look darker when stained because they show their end grain.
 

Progress Report:  It's been a while since I posted, so here is an update.  I have finished planking the deck, added the main rail, monkey rail, and monkey log.  I did not attempt to do the scuppers or rail mouldings.  Because I have decided to model a generic Grand Banks fishing schooner, I did not add the seine roller nor did I include the propeller assembly or exhaust pipe.  I have assembled the hatches, forward companionway, trunk cabin, and wheel box but have not glued them down.  They are just sitting on the deck.  I have mostly assembled the windlass bit support mechanism and the samson post.  The bitts and fife rails are primed and sitting in mounting holes but are not finished yet. The chain plates have been installed.   As you can see from the photos, the ship is mounted on an oak board with 1/8” brass rods.  Thanks to Rafine for his helpful suggestion on this.
Here are some thoughts on the quality of the kit for anyone looking at this log and considering whether to select Benjamin W. Latham as their next ship model project.  At this stage of my construction, I would recommend it; especially for someone looking to gain experience before going on to something more difficult and complex. 
For the most part, the kit is well designed.  Providing the center keel as a four part “sandwich” helps insure a strong straight hull.  The two thickness of construction gives you a center line that helps when cuting the rabbet – a much easier job than with “Fair American”.  The transom was the one tricky part, but it worked out OK. The plans are straightforward, and the planking layout included in the plans is a great help.  There are no difficult bends, so the planking is relatively easy.  I used a sharp plane to taper the width of the planks, and could run a single plank from stem to stern in most instances.  The kit is very generous in the quantity of material supplied.  Same for the 1/16” x 1/16” strips for the deck.  The cast metal parts supplied with the model are excellent; better than most “kit bashers” could create.  The only down side so far is the forty foot seine boat that I was unable to complete  (see earlier entries in this log).  The kit makes an impressively large ship model and will appear even more so with masts and rigging. 
Here are some pictures:
 
 
 
 

Thanks for the "like", the comments and looking....
 
Here's the current state...  
 
The wale (wide) planking is complete on the port side.  Work is continuing on the starboard side.  I've temporarily tacked in place the garboard strakes in order to measure the remaining area for the "normal" planking strips.  I'm also sorting out how many battens I'll need...  I'm thinking probably 3 of about 8-10 planks between battens..
 
At this point, I know I'm going to need drop planks and stealers since various monographs show them...  I'm assuming this was the normal method for the French ships and not the monograph author's but haven't been able to verify it.
 
Click on the image to enlarge and as always ideas for improvement are welcomed.
 

 
 

Mobbsie, Peter - 
 
Yes, the decorative way the wale is fashioned in French ships is related to anchor stowage.  The French stiffened their longer, wider (compared to English designs) hulls by making their wales thicker and in several bands.  Between the bands the hull planking was thinner, creating a step up to the wale.  Where the anchor was hauled up for stowage the side point of the fluke could catch on it and rip up the wood.  So at the bow the thinner middle planking was exchanged for thicker stuff that created a smooth surface for the fluke to slide on.  Being French, where the thicker stuff ended, it was shaped in a stylish manner rather than just a functional end.
 
Here are two photos of the element from the QAR project
.


 
Hope that helps
 
Dan

Here a picture to show the system:
 

 
The wooden stock is in two halves and squeezes the shaft of the anchor. The 4 iron loops hold the system. If the shaft gets loose, the loops only have to be hammered inwards, and because of the conical form of the stock and the shaft will be held tight again. Ingenious design :-)
 
I doubt that it was ever replaced by rope, but hey its your model, do something like the woolings on the masts, if you do not like the paper version :-)
 
XXXDan

Thanks Frank.  Since I'm going to cut my planking out of pear sheets, I'm going to try spiling. Because I'm going to copper the bottom, I actually don't have to spile all that many rows of planks.  It will also give me practice for my Lyme.  I'm studying Chuck's tutorial and the Model Expo pamphlet on planking also.
 
Thanks Per.  I'm not going to be using paint at all on the build, at least that's my goal, but I will use stains and dyes for colors.  I'm planning on staining the wales and planking under the wales down to the waterline in black.  The planking above will be a mixture of pear stained a bit darker brown, pear or boxwood stained blue for the friezes background, and I'll be using redheart for the uppermost section of the hull planking.  At least that's the idea right now

JC Frankie, it's funny, I was at a liquor store the other day looking at bottles for building a SIB, and saw the Kraken rum bottle.  I thought it would be cool to add a ship and kraken to that bottle - looks like you beat me to the idea!

Looking great Mark.  You got a really nice curve to the stern counter too - nice job!  She's going to be a really curvy lady!

Ah, yes... ebony.  The bane of model shopbuilders.   Lots of heat as soaking doesn't do much...  lots of extra wood to deal with the breakage..  I'm going to try and get away from it even though I just love how it looks.  Maybe stain or dye next time around.

Yeah not sure I'd do it with ebony, but 2mm pear wasn't bad at all to work with

Thanks Frank.  Since I'm going to cut my planking out of pear sheets, I'm going to try spiling. Because I'm going to copper the bottom, I actually don't have to spile all that many rows of planks.  It will also give me practice for my Lyme.  I'm studying Chuck's tutorial and the Model Expo pamphlet on planking also.
 
Thanks Per.  I'm not going to be using paint at all on the build, at least that's my goal, but I will use stains and dyes for colors.  I'm planning on staining the wales and planking under the wales down to the waterline in black.  The planking above will be a mixture of pear stained a bit darker brown, pear or boxwood stained blue for the friezes background, and I'll be using redheart for the uppermost section of the hull planking.  At least that's the idea right now

So I finally got the wales done.  I used 2mm pear planks, rather than two separate layers of 1mm planks.  I went ahead and used the planking pattern from TFFM, with a top row of straight planks, and the remaining two rows using top and butt planking.  The Swan class is very curvy, so I took my time with the planks.  All planks were soaked and pinned, and then when dry, beveled (bottom two rows) and shaped to fit (the stem end planks got an initial soaking and drying in the jig I posted earlier).  I originally thought about using the miter jig on my Byrnes table saw to cut the various top and butt planks, but since each of these planks were generally different in sizes and tapers, I cut and sanded them each by hand.
 

 
 
The stern end of the wales is a bit different from the wales on my Badger, which was a single plank and just ended along the side of the ship.  According to TFFM, the bottom aft end of the wales curves around and under the stern a bit.  After a few rounds of soaking and bending, I managed to get the last plank on using 2mm planks.  TFFM suggests, because of the shape, to take a thicker piece of stock and carve and sand it to shape - the approach Martin took on his Fly.  It didn't seem too tough with the 2mm planks.  The space under the planks will be filled when I add the hull planking in the area between the end of the wales and the stern counter.  Here it is after some rough sanding - I plan on eventually sanding it into a more pleasing curved shape.  I left the piece a little longer so it tucks probably a bit more under the stern than it should, but I plan to carve and sand it back probably a little bit.
 

 
 
So the wales are done, with the initial sanding.  Once the hull planking goes on, I'll do a final sanding with finer grades of sandpaper, and work the stern end of the wales a bit more to add a finer curve and end to it.  Took me a lot of time, but I think it's critical to get the wales in the proper position.  I actually redid the first row of the wales when the line wasn't a smooth run between planks.  Was frustrating at the time to do that, but, in the end, I'm glad I took them off and redid them as I think the current wales look a lot better.
 
Now for some fun spiling the lower hull planking!

Nice work, Mike.  The planking looks to be going well.  I had that problem with wales and double layers and I won't be doing that again.   I'd rather fiddle with the thicker wood than trying to line everything up. 

Thanks Frank.  Since I'm going to cut my planking out of pear sheets, I'm going to try spiling. Because I'm going to copper the bottom, I actually don't have to spile all that many rows of planks.  It will also give me practice for my Lyme.  I'm studying Chuck's tutorial and the Model Expo pamphlet on planking also.
 
Thanks Per.  I'm not going to be using paint at all on the build, at least that's my goal, but I will use stains and dyes for colors.  I'm planning on staining the wales and planking under the wales down to the waterline in black.  The planking above will be a mixture of pear stained a bit darker brown, pear or boxwood stained blue for the friezes background, and I'll be using redheart for the uppermost section of the hull planking.  At least that's the idea right now

I have discovered a real gem.
 
Euromodel have a 'fleet' of large ships that require a fair degree of skill and interpretation which I find challenging and 'just what the doctor ordered'.  I unearthed a smaller ship of theirs which has largely gone un-noticed by most builders. It offers almost all the challenges presented by the larger ships, is much cheaper and allows the enthusiast contemplating some of the Euromodel ships as the Royal William or the Friederich Wilhelm zi Pferde a chance to quickly gain an insight into what the plans are all about. Its smaller size means that you can go through any constructional stage more quickly - right through the hull construction and up to the detailed sails.
 
Anybody interested in seeing this post ? If so, the text and photos will be presented with many, many points being open-ended for you to make your own choices. A little different to what is normally posted.
 
Pete

Alistair, I do hope that some day, you will restart your excellent build.
 
Indeed, the plank nipper is simple as fast to use (no soaking, no drying), it is cheap and you cannot get burnt by using it.  The only issue is convex shapes, as can be seen at the stern, or on the inner bulwark on the fore deck.  Now on this model, I took the risk, and after some careful sanding, filling, varnishing, the grooves of the nipper can hardly be seen, I dare say.
 
I forgot to mention that while doing the upper part of the second planking, I felt iut necessary to do the inner bulwarks.
 
Inner bulwarks
The original vessel was built as cheaply as possible, and therefore were single skinned.  Sergal suggests to make the inner planking with the same planks as the second planking which would have made a triple skinned vessel at that level.  Of course, no one would notice, but the overall thickness of the bulwarks would be too much: indeed, a single skinned vessel would most surely show the ends of frames, and I wanted this feature on my model.  So I used for the inner bulwark layer the battens left over from the deck, and added planks 3x1mm to simulate the ribs.  Everything was painted a nice green colour, but later on, a forum member mentioned that the bulwarks were indeed painted black, or grey, or left dark wood.  So I later repainted the whole area black.
 
Here are the following pics of the second planking:

















 
So that s how the project looks like now.  Present job is to add the garboard strakes or whatever they are named, then a second layer tinting varnish will be applied to the hull, then a layer of matt varnish, as the hull is way too glossy for my taste.
 
And then...Mmmmm: the ornaments, window frames, gunport and rudder hinges.

Looks great Mike. Like the colour of the stern and wale timber! Are you painting your Pegasus at all?
 
- Per

looks real good Mike....... So you're going to spil the planking, I think you'll really like doing that.... look at Chucks tutorial  on spiling.
just make sure you take your time in lining off the hull, thats very important. have fun Mike!!
 
frank