MEDDO

Once I shaped the and sanded the proper sheer it was time to add the fairing cap.   I did in fact sand the top of the sheer as Greg describes.  Either a side to side sanding with the stick posted in the last update or by holding the stick on one side as a pivot.  Then sanding on the opposite side with the stick moving it in an arch fore and aft.  
 
The fairing cap will now be added.  This serves two purposes and I discovered with the Winnie project that this is a great design element to help me when fairing inboard.
 
First it establishes a consistent width along the entire sheer.  It will be hard to screw that up as long as I dont sand into the strip.  The fairing cap is 5/32" wide.
 
In addition,  the fairing cap is glued to the top of each frame which really strengthens the hull.  There is no wiggle in any of the frames as you fair inboard or out.
 
There are 2 sections of fairing cap for the waist.   I added the forward piece first (#1)...then the aft section (#2).   These must be added first because a hance piece sits on top of the forward length.  We will add that later.  These are labeled #1 and #2 on the laser cut sheet.  When gluing these on the outside edge is flush with the outboard framing which should already be faired.  You can see below what remains inboard to be faired.  The only fairing I have done inboard up to this point is whatever I managed to get done progressively after raising a half dozen frames.  I had reached inside under those cross jigs to at least get rid of the heavy stuff.  But the cant frames are virtually untouched.
 
The qdeck fairing cap (#3) needs to be beveled on the aft end to sit flush against the transom.   The bow section of fairing cap is self explanatory.   Just make sure its flush with the outboard framing for all four of these pieces.   Then you will know exactly how much material you need to remove inboard.   
 


In this photo after the fairing cap was added,  the two hance pieces were added at the bow.  You can see how it sits on top of the waist fairing cap.  Also check out the framing plan for clarity.  Its at the break in the waist up to the fcastle sheer.   A scroll will be added much later after we finish planking everything.
 

I originally thought that I would need to wait until all the outboard planking was completed before I could fair inboard.  But the hull seems so strong with the fairing caps glued on so I just decided to go for it.
 
The gull has now been completely faired inboard...or about 98% there.   There are still some areas that will require some "noodling".  But I really wanted to get this done because it makes so much dust and its a pain in the butt.  I started with 60 grit sandpaper to get rid of the heavy steps from frame to frame.  Then I switched to 150 grit and then to 120 grit.  Remember when you are doing this NOT to reduce the fairing cap.  Its inevitable that you may hit it from time to time and you may remove the laser char but try and keep the width of the sheer as consistent as you can.   The fairing cap helps you do this.  Here is a picture after finishing up the inboard fairing.  Now I can return to the outboard planking with a much cleaner hull. Although I am compelled to add the keelson first just to make the inboard area even cleaner.   Its nice NOT to have to look at all that unkempt framing and laser char.  It cleaned up rather well dont you think?  
 

There is no real official protocol and we just put it where we think it will fit nicely.  Most of the time if the question is very specific to a problem you are having in your build then the build log would be a good place (my gunport template won't line up with my frames any ideas?).  If it is a more general topic then the specific sub forum would be nice as an independent topic (want to start using an airbrush to paint where to start?).  
 
Sometimes question in a build log become so interesting and consuming with so many posts the mods will split it off into its own sub forum as a new independent topic.

One more thing for the newer members I have said before.  This is a world wide forum with people of all skill levels.  We literally have some of the best modelers in the world post regularly here.  People who literally wrote the books on our subjects.  Sort of a basketball forum with Lebron posting daily or a swimming forum where Phelps is all over the place.  Sometimes this is pretty intimidating.  Us mere mortals must always remember everyone starts somewhere and we all want to improve.  Some of those "pros" are the nicest and most helpful people here.  The tone and encouragement from everyone here on the forum makes this the best place to be

I definitely agree with this advice.  This forum is so big that new posts get pushed off the front page so fast many will not see them.  Chucks 2 build log challenge is a great way for some of the people who have been here for a while to get some visibility on some of the new builders.  Even a quick "great job" comment does help encourage the builder.  Responding to them with a simple thanks in your build log helps complete the circle.  It gets even better if you go to their build logs and start leaving likes and comments.  The circle gets bigger...
 
As Chuck said
 
 
p.s. Also linking you current build in you signature makes it significantly easier to people to get to your log.  For the original poster I know you are working on the Lady Nelson but with no link I have to now go to the search box and search for your log along with all the other Lady Nelson logs.  A link in the signature makes it so much easier

hmm not sure.  It seems to be there on my page.
 
(btw I am using Safari on a iMac, not sure how to do it on other browsers)
 

To put a webpage link into your post you:
 
1  type what you want for example
 
Check out our club Shipwrights of Ohio
 
2  highlight the words you want to link
 

 
3  goto the tool bar at the top of the post and select the icon that looks like 2 links of a chain
 

 
4  after you highlight the word and then hit the link (chain icon) you get a pop up
 

 
5  now copy/paste your webpage url into the space
 

 
6  then hit the button insert into post
 
 
7 now your post (and/or signature block) should have those words underlined and you will see the weblink if you hover over it.
 
 
 
Check out our club Shipwrights of Ohio
 
 
 

Under the drop down tab at your user name select account settings then the tab named signature.  
A text box opens up and you can add whatever signature you want.  
Highlight the text you want to link and proceed as normal to link the specific page.

Thank you Glenn, JJ and Greg for the advice on achieving a realistic look to the rope hanks. I may yet have a further fiddle around with them but for the time being I think I'm going to call my Cheerful finished. Here she is.
 







 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 




I have yet to make a base. That's next up but I'm also thinking about my next project. These are the contenders.
1. Finish the Winnie I started a while ago. I have two issues with that. First some parts I made are just not good enough and will bug me hugely. Secondly I have come to the conclusion after much thought that I prefer fully rigged models.
2. Start over with Winnie, scatch building as much as I can, but make provision for masts and rigging and avoid the mistakes I made on the last Winnie. I think I can make the masts. For the hull I have all Chuck's hard work and expertise though I would like to scatch build as much as I can.
3. Stretch myself and try my hand at a scratch build - I wonder if either Speedwell on bulkheads rather than frames or a Swan class sloop are within my skill range. I have the David Antscherl / Greg Herbert for the latter. I think frames are probably too complex for me however. I don't have their  2 volume Speedwell books which include building Speedwell on bulkheads which may be build-able by me: at least I can have a go. I think I'll get the books and have a think about things.
 
In the meantime: thank you Chuck for Cheerful. I loved building her.
 
All the best everyone
Fred 
 
 
 
 

A small batch of longboat kits is now available.  But they are going super fast....so .....
 
The masting and rigging installments will be coming really soon.   I just have to bang out a whole bunch of Winnie chapter sets first.
 
Chuck

Thanks @druxey, I ended up not trying other woods and sticking with the bamboo - I started getting slightly better at drawing it...slightly. I can't fully understand why some of the treenails seem larger than others. I assume it had something to do with my drilling/trimming/sanding technique as I got more consistent the further along I went. It may remain a mystery though.
 
Appreciate the comments @glbarlow, have some Castello in my shop but still looking for the right tool (or should I say right priced tool) to cut it down 😄.
 
Small update - I finished the treenails on the section so far which means that I can't put off the deck clamps much longer. I am trying to decide if I should start adding any finish coats yet or not though. I still need to glue a few things down so I suppose I'll put that off a little longer.

 

I finished the first layer for the wales.  Basically I added two more strakes below the first that was added.   I show this image because its the first that gives you a good indication of what the hull will eventually look like.  This is as low as the planking will reach on the hull.   Everything you see below the wales is left unplanked and these frames will remain visible.   I do love a fully planked hull though.  Its my preference actually.  But like everyone else,  I would be crazy to cover up all of that hard work with the frames.
 
I will add two more strakes now above the wales.   They are also 7/32" wide.   Then it will be time to remove all of the top jigs.   Yippeee!!!
 
Chuck
 

Yeah.... I am getting scared of this build.... Good thing I have so many great build logs of the Pinnace and the Longboat to follow along with.

Figurehead, 64 Gun Ship, Scale 1/48
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Have completed the port strakes from the wales to the molding. Certainly not perfect, but better. I can really see how fairing and having all of your planks the same thickness  is a requirement. I’ve done a light sanding and can see mostly dips where the planks are a little thinner, it really stands out and makes a huge difference. Good thing I like to sand. 😏
 
Best Regards …. Rick

I've tried making a few Tom Lauria rope coils. The methodology for making coils seems pretty foolproof though I had poor results with white glue - I used diluted Titebond - and much better results with small amounts of carefully placed CA. The problem I have is getting the coils to lie naturally. I can't see a solution to that at the moment. Still, they don't look to bad. I will certainly settle for them. About another dozen to make and Cheerful will be done!
 



 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello every one. It's been awhile since I posted any thing on Montague/Alfred but wanted to get the the planking done on the Winchelsea and after 6 month's or so of building the bulkhead's and planking her in boxwood I finally went back to work on Montague/Alfred. Been slowly working on adding more beams to the upper deck. I added a few photo's of the Winchelasea  and do hope you enjoy the photo's. Sorry about the delay on getting back to her. Gary

For the frieze on my pinnace I simply used a child’s glue stick.  Worked great

Thank you for your kind words Greg...I must say that some of my best ship modeling memories come from the convention down in Tampa a few years ago and the time spent with you and all of the other ship modelers....great bunch of folks all willing to provide answers and information willingly...I am still using many of the "tips and tricks" I acquired during that convention.
 
Best Regards,
Cliff

Thanks chaps for your kind remarks. Here is an update on my Cheerful build. The end is in sight for a much enjoyed project.
 
I hoped the sheer pole would enable me to pull my wonky deadeyes into facing front. Here are the outer two:
 

And here all four. I'm pleased with the outcome. The sheer pole looks a bit curved in the picture but it is straight enough on the model. Looking at the picture I shouls perhaps have worked a little harder on the Syren deadeyes with fine paper.

And here the lanyards tied off. A bit scruffy but the best I could do.

Starting work on the ratlines. Chuch's instructions say use .12 rope. I tried it and thought .18 looked better. Big mistake and one I cannot undoe without destroying all the rigging done to date and that is a bridge too far for me. Not only do the lines look too thick but the wider diameter rope significantly increases the size of the knots. Irritating - but, oh well,  live and learn!
 
I also dragged in one of the outside shrouds (aft starboard - see below). Not quite  kiss of death territory but practice required.
 




 


Starting on the backstays
 


 

I struggle a bit with seizing lines together/to blocks. Cotton thread seems sometimes to take on a determination to go its own way rather than where its wanted. That or just getting too much CA so the knot is a little disfigured. Again more practice required.
 
Here using the cathead for temporary tightening a line. A lot of this section of rigging requires careful tensioning in particular to keep the yard arm where it shoud be.




 

Thats all for now. Not much to do and I shall be done. I heartily recommend Cheerful to anyone contemplating a semi scratch build. 
 
All the best
Fred
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Wow, it's been 6 months since my last post!
 

This next post is sort of a moment of truth. It’s time to grind out these numerous bulkheads down to forms that resemble the actual shapes of the interior framing of the boat. Which is no small task given the volume and number of these bulkheads. Numerous tools were considered for the job. The work in the above picture was done with the drum sander attachment to a Dremel.
 

Here are some hand tools I tried, in an effort to see how safely and efficiently wood could be removed.
 

But it was pretty clear that the job called for more than just a Dremel. It was time to invest in a Foredom rotary tool. The Foredom is essentially the same kind of tool as a Dremel with a flex-shaft, but there are an amazing number of handpieces that can be attached to a Foredom.
 

So I set up the workbench outside, with a hanging stand for the motor and a bullnose bit attached to the handpiece. This tool works very well and generates huge amounts of sawdust.
 

It makes quick work of grinding down the frames, but I had to make a deal with myself to only go so far with this tool. It could very easily do serious damage if I lost control of it.
 
In the bow, there are four frames just aft of the bow filler blocks that I will not grind down.
 

As a reminder, certain of the frames had been previously brought down to their proper molded dimensions, to serve as guides for future fairing of the frames between them. Three of these frames are visible here.
 

As I got closer and closer to proper molded dimensions, I decided to temporarily glue sacrificial blocks that were of the target thickness of the frames in those areas.
 

I could mark these with pencil and watch to see when I was starting to hit their surface in order to get an idea of when I was getting close.
 

Sort of like topography lines on a topo map, the blocks are lined up on the points at which each frame should have a certain molded dimension.

It was a lot of work bringing the frames down to their proper dimensions. Here I am using sandpaper to take off the really coarse marks left behind by the bullnose bit.
 

 
 
 

This was how I handled the forward third of the hull. In the middle third, I kept the bulkheads in place for the moment, because I wasn’t certain of the stability of the hull.
 

In order to stabilize the ground-out bow segment, I moved on to installation of the deck clamps. In this picture, the measuring blocks for the molded dimensions of the frames at the level of the sheerline have been removed. In their place, new blocks have been installed that properly space the deck clamps from the sheerline.
 

Using these blocks, the initial stringer of the deck clamps was installed. (I guess this particular piece would be called the deck clamp, and then additional pieces inboard of it would be the beam shelf.)
 

These spacer blocks were then removed.
 

Here the thickness guide blocks are being removed from the areas where proper thickness has been achieved.

That is a very satisfying look.
 

If you look closer, though, you can see the difference between the frames that were made from sandwiched layers of Castello boxwood and those made with Baltic birch plywood. Also visible are beads of squeezed-out glue from planking installation.
 

Now I moved on to the stern third. The two aftmost bulkheads will stay in place.
 

Once again, the bullnose bit was used initially.
 

And then thickness guides were installed. I really needed a faster way to bring the frames down to proper thickness, without the violence of the bullnose bit.
 

I had seen this device used by other builders on their build logs, and it appeared to be ideal for getting into small areas better than any other attachment. It requires a different handpiece attachment to the Foredom (a right angle attachment) and is a bit of an investment, but the same handpiece can be used for other useful things like an angle grinder.
 

 

After smoothing the frames, the deck clamp was installed.
 

Then on to the midships portion of the hull, with the same technique. Here I am using a hand held thingie to which I could apply adhesive-backed 60 grit sandpaper for fairing of the interior surfaces of the midships frames.
 

These support blocks did their job of supporting the free-floating frames in the unplanked portion of the hull.
 

The midships portions of the deck clamps are being installed.
 

Then the keelson was manufactured in 3 parts. It was carried to just short of the deadwood.
 

The keelson installed.
 

 
 

Deck clamps and beam shelves fully installed.
 

Time to remove the support pieces of wood between the frames.
 

 
 

In addition to the unplanked frames, a portion of the deck in this same area will be omitted to show the deck beams, carlings, and ledges.
 

Primer has been applied to the exposed frames.
 

I applied some paint just to see how it would look, and the appearance indicated that smoothing with filler would be necessary. Doing this helped to make the frames look the same as one another, whether they were sandwiched boxwood or birch plywood.
 

This was after 2-3 coats of brown paint.
 

Since the deck will be partially unplanked, I also applied the paint to the portion of the interior that would be visible through an unplanked portion of decking.
 
This picture gives a preview of some of the deck beams and carlings. This process will be covered in the next post.
 

Weirdly shaped planks is my middle name😁.  Looks nice from here

I have always liked this ship.  It will be a joy to see it progress.

Thanks chaps.
Allan - no port lids on the Cheerful save the stern chasers which have lids.
Glenn - I have read your log and all the other Cheerful logs several times over. Another really good log, well worth a read, is Cutter Alert  1777 by Dali: a fantastic build. What a incredibly useful club - is that what it is?  - Model Ship World is.
Fred

I’ve been MIA, but still making progress.  

The book Ships’ Boats by Ernest Blocksidge (1920) lists the following proportions for lifeboats.  Dimensions in feet and inches:
 
Capacity (people).       Length     Beam.    Depth
16.                                  18.            6’-3”.       2’-4 1/2”
18.                                   19.            6’-6”.      2’-6”
 
Hope that this is useful
 
Roger