testazyk

Hi EJ--Loving your work on this build.  I'm bashing this kit right now and had the same problems you did on gunport alignment and I agree with you that the problem is lack of a fixed reference point--you have to worry about the decorative pieces on the gunwales, the locations of the chainwales and the height of the upper deck guns all in relation to whether the gun deck ports are in position around the mythical line of those decks.  Bottom line--we should invest in a wood filler company.
 
I'm not sure if you addressed it in your narrative, but I'm wondering where you are going to put the power supply for your lights.  I'm planning to make the base a box that can accommodate the batteries, but not sure how close to the ship I want to put the switch. 

Hi EJ--Loving your work on this build.  I'm bashing this kit right now and had the same problems you did on gunport alignment and I agree with you that the problem is lack of a fixed reference point--you have to worry about the decorative pieces on the gunwales, the locations of the chainwales and the height of the upper deck guns all in relation to whether the gun deck ports are in position around the mythical line of those decks.  Bottom line--we should invest in a wood filler company.
 
I'm not sure if you addressed it in your narrative, but I'm wondering where you are going to put the power supply for your lights.  I'm planning to make the base a box that can accommodate the batteries, but not sure how close to the ship I want to put the switch. 

Thanks Geoff!  I've tried all sorts of ways to try to get footropes to have the correct hang  and this is a nice idea.

Thanks for that! 

Hi Pompey--
 
Do you have a photo of how you rigged the transformer into the base?  I'm trying to do something similar but want to hide the batteries in the base but will need to access them.  Also wondering on different ways to set up the on/off switch.  Just looking for ideas.  Thanks.

Does anyone have a good way of dealing with gaps between the inner wall of hull planking and the plywood deck provided in the kit?    The outer hull of my ship is wider than the plywood by about 5-10mm and I need to put in some timber so I can plank over the top.  Any suggestions on a clean way to do it?  Thanks

Does anyone have a good way of dealing with gaps between the inner wall of hull planking and the plywood deck provided in the kit?    The outer hull of my ship is wider than the plywood by about 5-10mm and I need to put in some timber so I can plank over the top.  Any suggestions on a clean way to do it?  Thanks

Kevin and Stockholm, that makes sense to me, I would think that white would have been best.

Is it true that the inside of gun port lids are usually depicted as red because gun deck walls were painted red so that sailors wouldn't be demoralised by bloodstains on the walls?  So I've heard.

My understanding is that lids were used on lower gun decks because the gun ports could in fact be under water during a sharp turn or heavy seas.  Higher up and certainly on decks and waists there is no need. 

I would say it exactly the way Ulises did!

I would say it exactly the way Ulises did!

I would say it exactly the way Ulises did!

Good luck!  This ship is going to be my next build so I'll be following your log closely.  My kit is much older (I got it for a steal many years ago and haven't gotten around to building it).  Looks like they have made some changes--what are those long strips that look like they have gunports etched on them?  Are they a template to guide with port placement or part of the first planking?  And what are those big U shaped things in the same picture?  Just curious.

Beautiful job!  Congratulations and I'm going to use some of your ideas on my current build. Good luck with the Endeavour and I look forward to following your progress.

The parapets are a great addition to the build--well done!
 
Have a great holiday season!

Really looking fantastic!  If I were you I wouldn't be just content--you should be very proud of what you have accomplished.  Have a great holiday season!

Gel stain is a good bet for a multidimensional piece of work like a carving because it's hard to seal the right spots.  Gel stains also are usually water based and easy to work with.

Hi Larry--
 
As Keith says its up to you, but what I've found is that the two big factors are (1) structural integrity to avoid warping or instability and (2) what you can realistically do in the space you will have available.  The planking provides a lot of support and if you start taking it away the load is carried by decks and keels which, if you are bashing a kit, may not be designed to take those stresses and you'll have to do some retrofitting.  Best of luck.
 
Tom

It just keeps getting better--your boat turned out beautifully!

Ahoy Lazyguy
 
I came from plastics and like you found that coloring these wooden ships is not a simple task. 
 
This is what I have found so far 
 
Wood bleeds  so you need to plan out how you will color your ship
 
I stain or dye wood then put on a light coat of wipe on poly first. Lightly sand or scuff the poly and tape off for the paint. Then sand the tape line, apply another light coat of poly to seal it, sand again, then paint over the poly with acrylics. Because the grain and natural tones of the wood can really add to your kit I always try to preserve them.  The problem is wood bleeds so you can't get an even delineation between different colors but can use paint to get that good clean line which I apply last over the poly. You can also use a piece of wood trim instead of paint to separate the different finishes. Prepare/finish it first and then glue it on. 
 
To glue small wood items to coated areas I sand the part to expose the wood and use a pin to perforate the coated surface or lightly sand it if i can. For larger parts I pin them with a treenail (do a search here for treenails) I use PVA glue for wood and for non wood items I use epoxy. I will also use poly after I glue on wood parts to create a stronger bond. 
 
Blue scouring sponges are great to prep poly or knock down the shine. 
 
Diluting paints with mineral spirits is a great way to color wood
 
Poly will smear paint. If I am second coating and area that has different finishes, I only do one really light pass with the poly and never drag it across the two different finishes. I do the line that separates them first, following the line then each side. 
 
Stain and poly coat; brush paint small details or corners. Then use sand paper or sponges to clean them up. The paint sits on top of the poly and can be removed without damaging the wood finish to achieve nice effects or super sharp lines on corners. 
 
Always test on scrap first. My rule is to get the results I want twice before I do it on my kit "once". 
 
Hope this helps . 

Which side won the battle?

Boats are one of the hardest things to get right and yours is looking really good!

Hi Guys
 
I buy sheets and strip out the planks I need. No saw used-just an xacto knife blade and  a 4" small Starrett combination square used.
 
I set the square's scale at the width that I want to cut,then I hold the combination squareup to the sheet and scribe along the rule that is at the width of the strip you will be using. I then scribe along the length of the steel scales end,then advance it down the sheet less than what the width of the scales end is. I continue to do this the total lenght of the sheet.
I then put the sheet down on my cutting board and trace thru the cuts that are the full lenght of the sheet with the Back edge of the xacto blade-not the cutting side(I do this because it will follow the scribed cut that you hvae first made down the lenght of the sheet. Being carfull to lightly do this at first,and being 90% to the sheet. If it is thin-say 1/32 you can after about four cuts just break off the strip from the sheet. I can keep mine within .003 over the lenght of the strip for width. It will take some practic,but you will not waste ant wood to a saw blade,save the wood for greater yeald from the strip.
 
Not have to spend a lot of money on a saw.
 
For thicker sheets I also use a .005 thich razor saw to finish cutting the strips . I have done this for years in building Gliders and other models. Works well on Evergreen Plastic sheet also.
 
As to figuring out the wood needed for a build,the decks are easy just figure out the area and yield on the strips you will be using. On the hull,I just ball park figure out the area and multiply it by 1-3/4.
I also use thick file paper for spliing my planks before cutting any wood.
Keith

Make things easier for yourself.  If you planking is smooth and symmetrical, use that as a base and replank using 0.5 strips.  They will be flexible and you will not have to use nails to hold them to the hull.  Before doing this make sure your base is the look you like.  Think solid hull approach.
David B