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GLakie

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by GLakie

  1. I believe I read somewhere in this forum that she was going to be brought a little closer to her 1812 configuration. Can't say with any certainty for sure though. Sure would be interesting to see where they would get the plans from, since we can't seem to find much info on the subject. Fair Winds
  2. Yes, mine came with 20 carronades and 2- 24 lb. long guns for the spar deck, and 30- 24 lb. dummy barrels for the gun deck. The kit seems to be aligned to the 1927 restoration. Cheers
  3. Yeah, you would think they could make it a little easier to find the sales and use the codes. Cheers
  4. A scroll-saw or bench-top band-saw with a 1/8" scrolling blade will be something that will make carving those bow and stern filler blocks a lot easier, right at the beginning stages for the hull framing. I went with a little 9" band-saw myself because of it's usefulness for other projects. A rotary tool like a Dremmel and accessories, with the Flex-shaft attachment and Work-station would also be useful. Then a small disc sander for shaping purposes. Other than that, unless you want to start milling your own wood, like I've decided to do, you should be good to go. Cheers
  5. Hi Mundie: Just thought I'd pop in and check on this Connie build and it looks like she's coming along nicely. On the previous page you asked about which paints to use. Model Expo sells a regular Constitution Paint kit with most of the colors you'll need except stains, varnish, and one or two colors not included in the paint list. At least from what I was able to pick up from my initial check of the plans. Unless of course Bob's Practicum recommends something else that might be better. I won't be using the practicum myself, so I don't know. I have been curious to see which direction he takes you though. Cheers
  6. Yup, if you're going to by the Connie, now is a good time to commit to it. $299 is a price that probably won't come around again for a while, if ever. I waited for a sale, and still ended up paying $399 last February. The site lists it at $499 right now, but the mailed version of their catalog reflects the sale price. It IS on back-order now. Getting the ship and studying the plans ahead of time is a good idea. Cheers
  7. Without being able to see what those lines attach to, it'll be hard to say what they're called. Don't think they're pendants though. Maybe someone here has built her and could chime in. Cheers
  8. That solved the problem Mark. Chrome works just fine. Cheers
  9. Was browsing my favorite toy store and found this wax called Crystalline Museum Wax and wonder if anyone has experimented with it. Cheers
  10. Hey thanks Mark. I actually am using IE 11, but also have Chrome installed. I'll give that a shot. Wasn't aware of a problem with IE. Cheers
  11. Having trouble posting links here for some reason. I've tried turning off the pop-up-blocker, made sure the compatibility settings include this site, and no matter how I try it, I can't post a link here. I can however, post pictures, and post links on other sites with no problem using copy and paste. Also, it might be helpful to know that while I'm in the editor, or making a regular post, I can't use the paste function normally. It does let me paste the address in the window though. Any ideas? I've followed the right procedure to the letter and still no cigar. Windows 8.1 Cheers
  12. Richard beat me to it, but yes, Syren seems to be the only place I've been able to find also, but Cornwall Model Boats has a lot of kit-specific accessories if you want to try them. Cheers
  13. Frankie: I did find Gantlines during my research, but those are something that's added later to accomplish lighter jobs and not permanently attached to the ship. At least not the Constitution. I Actually found that in an old Deck Seamanship Handbook. Chapter 5 I believe. It's also called a "Girtline". Kester: LOL! Yup, I probably should have re-worded that to read " one of those parts that serve no real "mechanical" function." Cheers
  14. Hi Frank or do you prefer Frankie? After a little more research into it, I can see where they would be useful for a number of lifting tasks, on deck, and aloft, for hoisting yards, tackle, and the like. But when I first looked at them, I thought it was one of those parts that served no real function like a figurehead or something, but after researching, I found out different. Actually very useful. Cheers
  15. Just spent hours going over this magnificent build and all I can say is (almost speechless-------almost), you sir, are an artist and looking at these pics are really inspirational and a perfect example of what can be accomplished with a little dedication and a lot of love for the craft. Beautiful work Danny! Fair Winds
  16. You could try either some smaller size rope (those lanyards need to be considerably smaller than the shrouds anyway), or reaming the deadeye holes just enough to reeve them. Cheers
  17. I'd have to agree with Tom, Bill, and Augie about setting the masts. Both options would allow for easy repairs down the road should they be needed. Not using any adhesive would allow for very easy adjustment and removal later if you need to, where the silicone would hold the mast in it's position without being permanently fixed under the deck and still allow for clean adjustment and removal without any damage. I guess it comes down to a personal choice of which method will work for you the best. Cheers
  18. There was one thing I forgot to mention. In the reference material I've read, when it comes to belaying the Fore, Main, and Mizzen stays, they said it was better to start with the Fore, then go aft and do the Mizzen, before doing the Main stays. Doing it that way decreases the likelihood of pulling the masts out of alignment during the tensioning process. They really stressed the point of consistently checking the alignment throughout the rigging process. But as I said, getting a number of opinions will be a good thing. Fair Winds
  19. I can only say that from all of the docs I've read so far, the general idea that I've come away with is to rig as much off the hull as you can before belaying. I suppose you could hang the pendants, shrouds and stays before mounting the masts. I'd label all of the lines as you go though. But don't just take my word for it though. Hold off for a few more responses before starting because the other guys here might have a better method. Cheers
  20. Thanks Henry. I'll be adding that info to my memory banks as well. Cheers
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