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GLakie

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Everything posted by GLakie

  1. GLakie
    I should have been a little more clear about my very short explanation of the planer and whether or not the board was warped laterally, because a planer will flatten the board, depending on which way it's warped. But you're right about a jointer being the best way to start. Cheers
  2. GLakie
    Mighty perty planking there Chuck! Nice and clean. Fair Winds
  3. GLakie
    I think someone earlier addressed this but I'll chime in. The planer is good for getting stock down close to the desired thickness and the thickness sander will bring it down the rest of the way and at the same time put a sanded smoother finish on it. Also the planer will flatten out slightly warped wood. Cheers
  4. GLakie
    The sturdiness of the blade comes down to type of wood, rate of feed, and most important, blade quality. Mine is the 10" Craftsman. It's alright, but, because of the 1 year warranty, I'm actually thinking of going with the 10" Rikon. They cost a little more, but are also pretty well-made, and come with a 5 year warranty. As to the table saw, the Byrnes is the only one I've read reviews about, that you can set a nickel on edge right on the table, start the machine, and it'll stay standing. Very little, if any, vibration. Also very good dust collection. Cheers
  5. GLakie
    Great job Rich. Those are one of those things that seem to go faster and faster from the sheer repetition of it doesn't it? Cheers
  6. GLakie
    Hi Marc: Bench-top band-saws typically, are capable of using 3/8", 1/4", and 1/8" blades, and, with the 1/8" you can scroll what-ever you like, with two exceptions. The 9" or 10" throat limitation instead of the 16" or more you'll find in a scroll saw, and scrolling a cut in the middle of a board through a hole you drill in it. For my purposes, a band-saw is the go-to tool for re-saw work, and with the right set-up, I've even cut half-lap joints with them. For the saws that don't come with a fence, you can tool up a mitered workstation with a home-made fence out of plywood, miter-bar and miter track, a handy, removable, tool for re-saw jobs, or ripping shorter stock 2' to 4' long in general. Cheers
  7. GLakie
    I've heard about these saws before. Great for finish work----a bit pricey for hand tools ----but very nice! Cheers
  8. GLakie
    I can't say what the shipping is to the UK, but from Florida to Michigan, it $40 US just for the saw, don't know what the extras will be. I'll let you know in January. Cheers
  9. GLakie
    I'll 2nd that!! Cheers
  10. GLakie
    Richard: I don't think you've misdirected this thread. The question you asked about how to rip a plank "without" a band saw or full sized tools is valid. The best way to do it though IS with a band-saw if you have limited space like me. Craftsman makes a 10" that has plenty of power to rip 4.5" planks down. It's 34" tall and weighs 66 lbs. and it comes with a rip fence. The key is using the right blade and rate of feed. Another option would be with a fold-up 10" table saw, but even they won't rip wood that thick, and it would take up a little more space. Cheers
  11. GLakie
    10" table saws are great if you've got the room, but in my case, I'm doing all my work in an apartment with limited space. I do have a circular saw with guide clamps for longer cuts and a 10" compound miter saw for shorter stock. All of the rest of the power tools I have are either hand-held, or bench-top, including a drill-press, router table, and a 10" band-saw for doing re-saw work. Everything stows away completely out of site. So the Byrnes Saw and the Thickness Sander is all I need now to mill my own wood planking and in my case, is just what the doctor ordered. And, as I said, it's also useful for smaller joinery projects. Cheers
  12. GLakie
    Have to agree with that! It'll be great for creating the joinery needed for boxes, chests, & drawers, ect. Already convinced myself, and it'll be a "done-deal" in January! Cheers
  13. GLakie
    I'll be lucky if I get 2 done at a time. But like I always tell people who ask me why it takes so long. 1st, you can't rush beauty and 2nd, If they need it now, they're REALLY gonna need it by the time I get it done. Cheers
  14. GLakie
    LOL! :D See? While I was resisting the urge, Danny jumped right in there! :D Cheers
  15. GLakie
    She's looking good Markku. After a little more extensive checking, the 3 BHD's I mentioned were overall fixes, but the rest seemed to be concentrated on the lower hull, with only minor repairs needed, and the rest can be worked out with just sanding and fairing. Cheers
  16. GLakie
    It's a good thing you're doing for Wounded Warriors Piet. All I can do for now is send them $19 a month, but wish I could do more. My nephew Justine's been in the Rangers for more than 20 years now, and you never know when bad things can happen. Cheers
  17. GLakie
    Amazing detail Danny! I was kind of wondering the same thing. I'll be building the MS Constitution and I guess back in 1812, or there-about, she had the crows-feet on the fore and main masts, then at some point they were omitted. Don't know when or why. Cheers
  18. GLakie
    Hi Jay: I've been going over your build of the "Connie" for some time now and been doing it from, the wings, so to speak, and am impressed with your attention to detail, and the instructional videos. I'll be starting mine here in a few months and will be referencing this build from time to time, if you don't mind. Haven't seen any recent posts lately and sincerely hope you and yours are all well. Looking forward to seeing you back here soon. Fair Winds George
  19. GLakie
    LOL! Can't resist! That's a very life-like looking set of hairy nuts there Captain. Cheers
  20. GLakie
    Looks really good Augie! Go ahead and take John's advice, except, if you can't run too fast, then 1st, put on a helmet, then real quick, hide all the sharp objects in the house. Cheers
  21. GLakie
    Those types of problems seem to be prevalent in all of the Constitution kits I've been reading about including MS's. On mine (so far ), I found at least 3 bulkheads that have to be re-worked to make them symmetrical before they can be installed. My point is, not only are the bulkheads themselves off, but the plans as well. Now I'm wondering how many more design flaws I'll find. Anyway, we all have to deal with these kit problems as we find them and all I can say is thank God we have a forum like this to get solutions for these problems from. A lot of these guys, and gals, have already dealt with this stuff and know the best ways to handle them. And if the fixes are too labor intensive or difficult, there is always "Artistic Latitude" to fall back on. Cheers
  22. GLakie
    I like the jig Tom. Looks a whole lot easier than trying to drill and install those rivets in place. Cheers
  23. GLakie
    Hi Markku: When I first checked my bulkhead plans, I found problems with 3 bulkheads. The 3 on the right side of sheet 1. Bulkheads B, H, and M were asymmetrical to the point of needing to subtract wood from one side and add to the other to correct it. This includes the keel slots. I'm hoping the flaw is only in the plans and not in the bulkheads themselves, but I won't know for sure until I strike the plans against the bulkheads. Cheers
  24. GLakie
    It looks fine to me Dale. Absolutely blazing trails here. Cheers
  25. GLakie
    A sensitive maneuver, to say the least Danny. Nice! Cheers

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