GLakie

Concerning the sails I am also following the sizes according Frank's log. I have to check again Karl's log.
 
But in order to save time and make it realistic, during the first and only trip of the Vasa only 4 sails were set.
2 on the foremast, middle one on the main mast and the lowest one on the Mizzen mast (I am not so familair with the names of the sails in English)
 
this is based on information from the museum

Mates,
 
Thanks for your clicks and comments.
 
================
 
Ferit, yes noted, thanks for your advice. This has occurred to me, but I have not yet thought of how to make those adjustments. Yes a single wire clip length won't work. Thanks for mentioning this issue.
 
That was my reason, initially, for pre spooling the deadeyes, then lacing shrouds one at a time, adjusting as I went along. But the first one was too frustrating. So the wire clip seems much easier - so far.
 
I think that I will need to make several separate wire clips. Then use those same wires (in proper order) for the other side. This would also assure the same drift on each side?
 
Kevin, thanks for your very kind post.
 
Regarding the sails; my concerns (along with rigging) is that I will have to have them stiched by a 3rd unknown party. There is a sewing school nearby I could contract someone?
 
My only big "fear" is that if they (sails) look too "fake" and stitching is too out of scale,  it would detract from the other details I have been attempting with this build. IMHO sails actually look amazing or they look well Hmmmm. Certainly difficult. Furling (hiding) them all is also an option. 
 
I should fly to Boston and have Frank's (fmodajr) Admiral do a second set for me ha ha. The sails on his are really special ! She did a superb job. And his running rigging is well (:-)))
 
PS: I did buy the same material, and thread. He PM'd me with the source etc, We shall see. I am tempted just very unsure. I also have all the needed dimensions. Karl's (Karleop), also beautiful Vasa, with sails, shared all the dimensions in his build log. It was always my intention to fully rig it, until now....
 
Again mates thanks for your suggestions
 
Michael

From what I have been told the deadeye spacing distance is 3 times the diameter of the deadeye. Does that sound right?

Sjors,
It's been forever since I looked in on this build. Sorry I've missed so much. The rigging is amazing. Well done my friend.
 
 
Bill

Good to see you moving forward again -- and beautifully done.
 
Bob

Thanks Al. I don't think the supplied dowels are basswood so you will probably be OK with them. They seem much harder, like birch. The other basswood is OK to turn for things like mast coats, but you have to be careful because they break along the grain easily. They also have some fuzziness to them when worked but that may be a function of the tools I use.

I think she looks absolutely splendid Mark.
 
I'm sure with a little perseverance you'll find your answer to the rudder collar, there is a solution out there somewhere. Not too sure going in from the top is the right answer though, unless it's just to get you over the top of the rudder post.
 
Have you tried the domestic front, some bread or pastry dough, chewed chewing gum or something similar, off the wall I know but may work.
 
Good luck mate.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Sjors
 
enjoy the rigging, the most "exiting" part of our hobby

Your wheel is 500% better than the kit part. It's going to look great when it's all assembled and in place.
 
Is the basswood from the kit just not workable with machine tools? I was thinking of using my Sherline lathe to taper the masts on my current and future builds but may just get some boxwood to do that with and not even bother with the kit wood.

OK. Thanks

Yeah, I got that security warning too and informed Chuck about it. According to him it's all fixed. I found the build log on this site by searching the key words "ship's wheel" and "constitution". Near the bottom of the list of results on the first page was the build log.

JS - I can't access that web site - I get a Sucuri warning.
 
Pressing on, I drilled holes in one of the rims for the spokes, then placed wire into the holes like I did for the first attempt. Here you can see the first one on the left and the new one on the right.
 

 
It is much thinner and looks much better to me, so I am happy so far. I then turned the spokes using the Dremel and a draw plate. I made the thinner part of the spokes first to fit in the holes in the rims. I then turned the part sticking out for the handle in the draw plate and cut them to length. Here is how it looked at that point.
 

 
The spokes were glued into the rim by sliding them out slightly then placing a tiny bit of glue on the end and just under the handle, then pushing them CAREFULLY back into the rims before the glue set, which happened pretty quickly. I broke a few in the process but they were easy to remake. The next day I used a small round file and a small flat file to shape the ends into the handles and here is how it came out.
 

 
A few of the spokes don't line up across the inner hub, but other than that I am pretty happy with the look, compared to the metal supplied wheels.
 
I then used the same process on the second wheel, but this time I was more careful drilling the holes at the inner hub. I started making the spokes last night and they are just set in place for now. Rounding and trimming the ends for the handles is next to do.
 

 
I may redo the inner hub on the first one and make new spokes or I may remake a whole new wheel, but first I will see how the second one turns out.
 

Looks BEAUTIFULL!!!!!!
When my Aggy will look like yours, I will be very happy.....
Hennie

excellent progress Sjors...........remember,  it's not the frequency,  it's the quality!      top notch snake........very well done.....  

Woo Hoo! Sjors, now your riggin'
Your coming to Los Angeles when to rig my Enterprise??
Sam

I so much look forward to your updates, did I just read that you are not going to put sails on her now

Hi Michael,
Excellent as always...
But if the same wire will be used for all 8 shrouds, the upright space/distance between the upper and the lower deadeye of the first shroud differs from that upright space/distance of other seven shrouds. All have different upright distance from each other. On the eighth shroud the upright space will be minimum; on the whole look, it will be like a triangle, not two lines parallel each other... 

Hi mates,
 
So I made a mistake (that’s new for me) – attempted to attach the first foremast shroud after having first laced the two chainplate deadeyes. You were kind in not remarking on this error J
 
It became/was too labor intensive/frustrating to loop the shroud, and also trying a “throat seize” and then adjust the deadeyes spacing.
 
Went back to visit Frank’s Wasa (fmodajr) and on his #340 he had made metal spacers. This is apparently the much-preferred method.
 
So bent wire for spacers, but in my case the upper deadeye kept rotating upside-down as I tried adding the shroud.
 
SO added this small extra metal “U” hook so that deadeye would stop rotating. Just sharing this small bit that will reduce this frustration when I do this part of the build.
 
Cheers as always
 
Michael
 

I think I'm on track now   
 
I have make the stay's and snakes.......
I'm really happy with the result.
 
Sjors
 
 
 
 

Lovely work  that was nice rope you received, sorry I missed the post about the serving

Hi Nenad
 
Well done friend! It seems you to get better with every step you do!
 
Regards
Gerhard

Spectacular looking wheelhouse with steering wheel Nenad.  Looks just fine there on the aft deck.
 
Cheers,

Quite lovely Mark, you've come a long way
 
 
Bill

Looks really good Mark; good luck with the top-down approach to the collar.
 
cheers
 
Pat

That would give new meaning to Walking The Plank.