GLakie

Thanks RR, have a great summer.

Frank,
 
Gorgeous work...I'm repeating myself, as well as all others whom are following along!
 
Michael

Great job on those shrouds, stays, and ratlines Frank. Outstanding! 
 
Cheers

Hi I hope you don't mind late commers I started the centenary version (which is the same kit but with wooden decks and photo etch) I have lit mine but it has sat on the shelf of doom when I started the pe seats, maybe following you will encourage me to start mine again(although I doubt it) looks like your off to a good start

I am glad to read that the ladies in your life are getting much better. Hard to focus when our loved ones are not well.
 
I have seen model railroaders make very small chain by using small wire and then using pliers to make regular groves that look like chain links.
 
Traincat model sales has 52 links to inch, and 72 links per inch
 
Bluejacket ship crafters has chain too

hello Greg!  I though towards those lines.......quite positive if you ask me     I was  going to lean toward mahogany,  or something lighter.  at least I can feel good about making this kind of choice    thanks for the insight!

well.......the first hurdle has arrived!   I'll get into it in a moment.  first,  I'd like to show you how the stand is coming along.
 
the holes were drilled for the hull
 

 
the brackets that will support the ship has been drilled and fitted to the hull
 

 
and then disaster struck.  the kit scheme lists the use of deck tan on the decks.  what I have is the remainder of a bottle of flat sand......seemed close enough...and looked pretty good.  touching up the decks,  I noticed that it seemed to be drying out,  a good indication that I had thinned it at the time I used it {I think I used it for the Spitfire}.  having another bottle of flat tan,  that had separated,  I poured a little of the suspension from that bottle to it.  what resulted was this.
 

 
yea.......not good.  so....pondering on this,  I continued with the stand assembly.   the pedestals were sanded and cleaned up to the point where the separation lines are gone.  the bottoms were drilled out......all I need to do now is drill out the tops of the pedestals.......I'll do that when the supports are cemented on.
 

 
......and then the hull was set in place.
 

 
going online,  I started to look for a Titanic color chart.........since I got the feeling that the instruction scheme might not be quite right {even though it was my goof to begin with}.   they do suggest mixing paint for some of the colors,  but in this day and age,  I'm sure that the spectrum offered by model companies now,  has expanded quite a bit.   I did find a site that seems quite good.......they offer a lot of insight,  and list paints that others has used with great satisfaction.
 
Titanic Paint and Color Reference
 
I got a good line for the bottom paint color.  though these look close,  I still may elect to redo the entire bottom.
 

 
a controversial color that this ship had,  was the depiction of a color called white star buff.   it was used for the funnels.  a color they suggest is British Gulf Light Stone.......and I happen to have a brand new bottle of it.   the stripe along the hull of the ship is a yellow chromate,  which I'm sure it can be found in a flat {it's a military color}
 

 

 
it is suggested to look at the colors from different angles.......computer screens can play tricks with the hue.  the big head turner is the deck color.  they do list a sand color,  but it's gloss.   I'm sure that it can be found in a flat........but the flat sand that I used is much darker,  and I need to strip it off the decks somehow.  
 

 

 
this color sand would be much better to use......I'm sure Model Master has it in a flat {as a gloss it would not be suitable}.  I was looking through my paints,  and I came across a couple of paints that may work as well.  the deck on the Titanic was a yellow pine,  so it has to be a lighter color.  the fore deck,  poop deck and well deck was planked in pitch pine,  considered a tougher wood at the time,  would be a shade darker.  teak was used sparingly,  as it was an expensive wood at the time.
    it was used for moldings and margin trims...but I may not go into that much detail  the two choices are:
 
1)  Armor Sand - Model Master       it has the light sand color,  but has a slight greenish tint to it
 
2)  US Army/Marines sand - Model Master    has the light sand color,  and a bit more on the yellow/tan side
 
if you get right down to it though.....the British Gulf Light Stone could also be used.....it too possesses the light sand color with a shade more yellow to it.   I'm in the process of stripping the decks now.   I used thinner for the bridge deck.....not much to do.  but the other decks,  I have painted them with brake fluid........I'll see how that works.
 

 
 

Looks like things are progressing along in excellent fashion.
Mine is pretty much on hold during the summer months, too many other things going on.
Keep up the great work 

Thanks Jesse, I've been following your build also. This is a nice ship to build, it's well designed and Chuck's instructions are easy to follow and there are a lot of excellent Syren build logs on MSW to "borrow" ideas from.  

I second that Popeye!  That's some good looking iron-work. 
 
Cheers

You don't owe us an apology Bob. More times than not, life just isn't fair, and sometimes it helps to just vent. I know this first hand. We've all been pulling for Nenad, and he knows we all care, and we'll offer up all the support we can. We all have our crosses to bear, but having friends here takes at least some of the load off. 
 
Cheers

The ladders will have to go there.Those are visual problems you'll encounter, that can't be fixed if you follow the ship's design Nenad. Some stuff will be hidden. She looks great, and I'm glad your Admiral is feeling better.
 
Cheers

yes,  I have seen that site George.........as a matter of fact,  I posted it for Casey.    thanks for your help 
 
thanks Dragzz    I've used the brake fluid method  for quite some time.  as mentioned,  it depends on the age of the chrome process.  thank for your suggestion.......appreciate the help 

If you can stain boxwood blocks I would like to know ow you do it,  I never had luck doing it myself.
David B

Nice job on the fix Jesse! Don't you just love it when a plan comes together the way you want? 
 
Cheers

Was just boring around the web Dennis, and found this Titanic paint reference for modelers. You've probably already seen it, but just in case:  http://titanic-model.com/paint/

You're off to a great start Dennis!  I know exactly what you mean about contaminating your work area with the brake-fluid. When I started painting cars, I found out early on, that things like that, and even just opening a tube of silicone gasket putty in the same room, will cause fish-eye and the paint won't stick properly. Thanks for pointing out all those little details that most of us would probably over-look. 
 
Cheers

Was just boring around the web Dennis, and found this Titanic paint reference for modelers. You've probably already seen it, but just in case:  http://titanic-model.com/paint/

To all my Friends at MSW;
 
I owe everyone an apology.
 
This is not a forum for bickering..
 
Our Friend Nenad has loved ones that are struggling.
 
Let's all realize what means the most in our lives, and the irreplaceable.
 
Please, Give the best to those we love.
 
~Bob

hello popeye looking good so far i know a friend of mine he does de crome he used bleach just a thot u might want to try a peace off the tree to see how fast it works for u 

Was just boring around the web Dennis, and found this Titanic paint reference for modelers. You've probably already seen it, but just in case:  http://titanic-model.com/paint/

nice blocks 

hi there John    the instruction color chart lists a deck tan for the decking...I was actually searching around today to see what color would be used inside the structures.  the site listed above,  gives a different color,  as well as formulas to mix a proper color.  they list a gloss color...which I wouldn't use in a million years......but the color is called 'sand'.   that is what I used,  and it's a flat.   sad to say,  but the bottle is almost empty.  I used it for something,  because I had added thinner to it,  and it gave me the impression that it was drying out.   so,  I added the suspension from another flat tan color {it had separated}.  now I have semi gloss patches on the boat deck.
 
the site states that yellow pine was used for the main parts of the decking.  teak was used along the edges of the structures and the bulwarks.  I'm not going to go into that much detail with it,  but it's looking like I'm going to be repainting the decks.   the fore deck, the poop deck and the well deck was done in pitch pine,  which is a bit stronger,  and probably a shade or two darker.   Teak was used much later for deck planking.
 
I have a small list of paints........one more paint got added to the list.   is there a color you might suggest?  thanks for the good word 

She's already well under way, Popeye!
 
Can I ask why you're painting the wooden decks tan?
 
John

Nice job on the fix Jesse! Don't you just love it when a plan comes together the way you want? 
 
Cheers