kirill4
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Everything posted by kirill4
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Thanks for the link Marc! may be there were some private issues why he decided to leave all that platforms ... good to hear that he is OK and continue building his models -
Hi Michael! Great job! I dare to notice that you have already surpassed the Rex Stewart in the skill of rigging work!😲 The general detailing and accuracy of the extension of the binding of blocks, crowfeet, deadeyes, even for a larger scale, would be worthy, not to mention such a small one in which you are now working! Keep it up!
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Good day, Thanks wefalck , it is interesting fact that "... precious decorations were actually removable at least on some types of ships." I knew that there were some troubles due to weights and sizes of the decorations... but didn't realise they could be removable in some cases... All the Best! Kirill
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Roter Löwe 1597 by Ondras71
kirill4 replied to Ondras71's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Good day, Dear Ondras, Such clean and beautiful work! Watching your build with great pleasure! All the Best! Kirill -
I see. now.. it was about stay twisting /I didn't have such experience with stay, I had that crows feet legs twisting a little when pulling them trough the stay ! You are right than angle "needle-stay" is very important! and also size of the needle - it must be special very thin needle! I used small long noise pliers to keep needle at right angle and pincet to keep stay steady at the penetration point ... Which tools did You ? I meant thereis no strait contact between fingers and threads ?... and Yes ... in this small scale which You work with ,materials could "feel" and act very differently compare to the larger scale like mine 1:100 ... there could be effect of different rope treatments which makes effect on the process as well ... my stays and shrouds were heavily painted before installation and became quite hard .... they became almost like lead wire or very soft copper wire/ the advantage of this thread condition that it keeps "strait" shape with min load required ... but threads which I used for making crows feet were unpainted at this "needle" stage remains very soft and flexible and passes easily trough the stay ... than all construction were balanced with weights , all necessary leg's lengths were adjusted, than legs were plated by "extra liquid CA " and on the next day after complete drying , all legs excesses under the stay were fine trimmed and I made imitation of crows feet legs knotting to the stay by separate very thin mono thread( it makes more accurate imitation of knotting compare to the same size thread , if try to use it for knotting imitation) ... and finally all were painted to the existing rigging color... purpose to use weights(under the stay) + counter balance weight (loaded other side of the back stay-crows feet unit) and very liquid CA - to make crows feet legs strait shape and to fix this strait shape without phisical ly loading them when weights and counter balance weights will be removed - imitation of gravity forces .
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Good day Michael, Your crows feet finaly looks pretty good! When you first try to make them with needle, did You use weight for each leg as well and super liquid CA to aplly on them, while they were under weight ? Just You mentnioned they were twisting... these weights and liquid CA solved my problem with twisting... but Your plan B does good job as well !!! All the best! Kirill
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Good day, Some digital CS drwngs in high rez. may it will be more handy to read text on the drawings https://cloud.mail.ru/public/BPpQ/wHjjVFTtz
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Thanks Bill ! I see , now is clear, must be good stuff!
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Thanks Bill for reply , clear - gold leaf. All the Best! Kirill
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Good day Bill, What do You use for gilding of your figures ? All The Best! Kirill
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Thanks Bill , It looks as they are what I need as well ! need to buy them
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Oh! Bill! while I was trying to make readable text in google translator , You already answered my questions!!! :))) ... look at my modified previous message - about reproductions...It will very interesting to know your opinion about if we could to use that stuff which Doris use for making her decorations , for making sample for further reproduction copies in resin ?
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Sorry, Bill I just read your post 439 - that reproductions are planned ... Then of course there are no questions If only, maybe more convenient and more accurate on scale, if you first make a sample of the decor from this sculptural hardening mass and after polymerization in the oven, even then give the final shape using a model knife? And then make the required number of copies from this sample? Edited 49 minutes ago Kirill4
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sorry , but that decor she made , it is out of scale - remains too big, if compare to the original kit decor which could be seen on the photo... what if just sculpturally create a sample from that Doris magic sculp stuff as much close as possible to the original design , and after backed it in oven , than to cut by rasor nife to the desired final shape... doing this phase which she is busy now only once , and than, just to start making copies from epoxy or special casting resin?
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Good day, very interesting in this decoration making... Bill, Marc, what do You think if make one fully detailed and scaled element of decor , made it from that oven hardened stuff which Doris uses for her decoration, sorry I forgot the name of it... and than, just try to reproduce it in copies as much many as we need - make matrix and use epoxy for reproduction? I 'm just crying looking at this girl ... to make one element is ok, but it looks she wants to make it again and again... ? or what is the idea ? All The Best!
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Good day Michael, Looks just great!!! and your choice of rigging color as well! All the best!
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some funny things from our seamen life... recently one of my colegue shared this video ... this guys , instead of gulls , they are brave ! They are traveling from ship to ship in big group and try to find where is food for free, ... they have funny faces :))) and even can bite if someone crossed private borders ! :))) .... the Chief Mate asks them to go away because they shitted all over deck of his vessel and hide fish in wrong places... but they don't agree with his demands https://cloud.mail.ru/public/iJn8/pjcR49xRR
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Once again I would like to return to this briliant work of Michael D. - look at this magic transformation plastic in wood by using simple stuff... if it so easy, why everybody do not do the same? :)))
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To remove paint from plastic , many use a “mole”- this is a special liquid, usually used to clean the clogs of kitchen and sewer pipes, the name will differ in other countries of cause ...
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As I understood looking at foto of your model, your already started to draw ornamentations while You didn't paint hull yet, didn't You ? If this is the case - it is wrong choise of painting sequence ... need to be done it other way around
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What I would like to note, looking at the situation from this days and my own experience , there are more easily and more predictable ways exist how to get wooden effect on painted plastic . I used dry pastels because in that time when I began my model I didn't know about other more easy and effective ways to reach wooden effect... but I would like to admit that dry pastel method gives low price and fast drying effect and great possibilities for correction untill You fix results by varnish.... this I could say advantage of using dry pastel powder... with some experience it works good ... at least I keep in in my arsenal together with other more modern stuff I would like to recommend You closely study painting technics which Marc (SR) and Michael (Vasa) use for their models , also consider that those PLAID mediums which numbers I mentioned above specially designed for making these vintage and wooden effects on painted surfaces. I know there are more special sets of paints of different makers exist for creating wooden effects... and from this point of view using dry pastel powder as staining medium may be not so handy as using special designed stuff?
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how many parts difficult to say... make some 50 ml of this mix by your own taste - it must be good rich in color... when applied on the surface it should covered painted area good... excess need to remove clean water wet brush or cotton stick or some pice of clean rags etc - there no need detailed advises - just mix and try yourself... light color base - use dark wash and vise versa
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for painting standing rigging I used diluted free mix of some black-umbra-brown-gold ocher and some FolkArtAntiquingMedium No 811, 817 and matt varnich and some spirit for liquidifing this mix... but actually it was not necessary to mix such many colors :))) after mixing it becames something as dark grey-brown color or sort of... so why don't use this couple of colors I don't remember...:) for coloring running rigging I used mix of golden ochre and umbra and matt varnish and alcohol spirit... maybe added some raw sienna 452.... But I would like to say , that coloring ropes by this stuff very inconvenient! ... Yes it coloring good and deep, drying fast but sticking effect to the fabric very weak and when rigging your model every now and than need to repaint piece of rope where paint loosened and fall apart... much better and handy in use - to use mix of artistic oil paints diluted in white spirit and tick oil - this will dry longer but gives excellent effect!!! - see master class by Dmitry Shevelev where he demonstrates his painting technics oil paints for ropes and bitumen for hull ,etc.
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this way I painted entire hull and deck... *later on I discovered for myself acrylic paints PLAID-FolkArts , same company produces very nice medium for wooden and antic effects FolkArtAntiquingMedium, 59 мл (art/No 811, 817, 819) ! *Masts and spars were painted by using PLAID paints and their mediums and other ordinary artists acrylic paints of suitable colors as well. *For imitation wood grains on the masts and spars I used thin wire brush. Here for the base color I used black spray first and than PLAID 936 barn wood color paint - applied by soft brush... and for finish colors I used mixed paints of gold ocher and umbra ordinary artistic acrylic paints which I applied by wire brush... for aging-wood finish FolkArtAntiquingMedium No 811, 817 were used - wire brush as well! *for painting other small detais such as blocks, knights ,kevels etc I used desert sand or beige acrylic sprays ,than PLAID caramelo\raw sienna 452 and than one of FolkArtAntiquingMedium, 59 мл (art/No 811, 817, 819 or when they were white plastic or bright colors I used strait raw sienna 452 and than one of FolkArtAntiquingMedium, 59 мл (art/No 811, 817, 819... without primer ATTN after painting need to give paint couple of days for complete polymerization and even after that be better to coat it by matt acrylic varnish !!! or there will be great risk to destroy fresh paints layer
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