kirill4
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Everything posted by kirill4
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Good day Bill, this is from Kirill :))), Please consider , that I'm not at all experienced ship model builder, and all I posted this is just my solely private thoughts / point of veiw ...:) When I saw models of D.Shevelev , it made a very big impression on me and later on I tried to find more information about him and his works... and tried to follow his findings and style , ? in my own work, of couse in very small conserns ,due to absolutely different levels of outcome :))) but ok, back to our questions... if You like idea to darkening your running rigging lines, I would like to reccomend to use water deluted artists acrylic paint - ochre + umbra natural... in such extand which will give You desired "hemp " color... it could be easily applied on installed running /standing rigging... by soft wide brush, desired intensive could be reachead by appling a few coats... or You could use artistic oil paints as D.Shevelev used, I didn't use them yet, but it is in my plans for my next palstic model///- 1,508 replies
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Seriously, D.Shevelev models more than 20 years in private collections and still no "troubles" with them...
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Good day Ian, As far as I knew, it is long life receipt... artists oil paints on artificial threads, at least 200years duration 👌😊
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Good day, Bill, Now, with stained ratlines, it looks much more better, more realistic and much close to museum models...as You could see, ratlines now looks more proportional and in garmony with shrouds... deadeyes lanyards , it is part of standing rigging,I doubt we could name them "running" ...they often tared as well, tar doesn't make any troubles if they need to be retighten sometime... I would say, your running rigging could be stained in a few tones darker as it is now, for staining running rigging You could use umbra natural with added golden ochre... there is link ,how it looks like on standing and running rigging - models of D.Shevelev https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=71120 He paints his rigging in this way... "for coloring white threads with artistic oil paints, you can dilute the composition in half a liter container, for example - a tube of paint is mixed with liquid oil - teak, for example (you can add more white spirit - to make the composition more liquid) Natural umber is used for standing rigging. On running, ocher is added to this paint. It is dyed by pulling a thread through a can or a poured puddle of paint. Then the thread is pulled several times through the cotton glove and hung out to dry. Can be used in a day. https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/search.php?keywords=умбра+ленинградская "
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"White " color of the ratlines on the pictures gives interesting effect, first what I see looking on the model , it is rows of solid white horozontal lines of the ratlines but vertical running of shrouds,which should be seen in the first turn, as a dasic veiw , somehow visualy disappears...:)))... "white" color gives visual eccessive thickness to the ratlines, they are very thin ( approx 1/6 diam of the shrouds ) ropes compare to the thickness of the shrouds... but not as almost half of the diam. of the shrouds...
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Good day Вill, As I could see on the replicas and museum models , there is no too much contrast in colors of ratlines, deadeyes lanyards...the last ones were tarred often as well. Of couse, if contrast colors is just your own choice ,than it is another question and not a subject for discussion, but it looks a bit unusual...
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Good day Bill, Volume of your rigging works is impressive! However have some questions... but why all ratlines, deadeyes lanyards and all runnung rigging You made all in white color? Are You going to dark staining them later on? They shouldn't be such bright color for sure... deadeyes lanyards and ratlines should be same color as shrouds, and running rigging should be color of "hemp" but not white...which looks strange a little, when white color choosen, why..? Wish You all the best! Kirill
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Regarding round or square tuck... it is interesting question :))) , in my personal point of vew , it must be like more as Batavia tuck were made, if You saw that book of archeological artefacts of Batavia? There is article about Batavua wreak hull planking including section of tuck ...roughly say ,they used hard bended planks our suitable shape of the natural wood to create smooth transition from side to tuck planking...but in this shape, it is something between round and square tuck as I could guess:))) https://cloud.mail.ru/public/w1qG/kKQKZi814
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Good day, It would be very interesting, for sure! I would like to be in the front row as well! What is the actual scale of this kit?
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Dear John, Consider there is interesting visual effect... due to "dark" color of model hull, stained rigging( and color of stained sails as well), when fitted on the model, visually they are looking more "bright " in colors :))) ... I could say yes... may be another coat of stain would be not bad... All the Best!
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Hi John, Regarding rigging colors ... just for information, how rigging looks like on replica ,for example...and of couse, no any light colors for ratlines, lanyards and any other running and standing rigging lines... A few days ago I visited replica of W.Barenrz ship - it stays in Harlingen, Netherlands...and in September made short voyage under sails... everything went very good, as those people said ...
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Dear Frank, Congratulations on the completion of this grandiose work and on the final photo shoot of such a bright model! Everything turned out very cool, and the construction itself was very interesting! I wish you success in building the next model! All the best !!! Kirill ps By the way, what are the plans for the next model, if not a secret?
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Oh, I see... Own rope making machine gives undoubt advantage, You will never depends on from rope supplier... :))) sometimes it is very handy, even You have to invest some money in the begining... By the way, as I know, in internet, there are many drawings of very simple types of rope machines which could be made from wast material, but besides their rough appearance, they work, and with same final results as expensive and fine designed brand famous machines ... I saw one machine which assembled even without any wheels!!!:))) , but made from two triangle flats( plywood or evev thick cartoon), 3 wires ecscentric cranks with hooks at the ends and one central hand knob on the upper flat, to making all construction moving when You moving this knob... it looks funny but suprisingly it works , and I saw ropes made with it, they are normal in appearance, same as any others made by means of using wheels design rope making machines... All the best! Kirill
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Good day, As variant, You could make your own ropes... hm, but than again, need to purchase a few threads of different diameters and some simple rope making mashine... or to wait orders supply from Syren... All The Best! Kirill
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Good day Bill, I have troubles with internet .. due to far away in the sea and issues with sattelites signal.. could You check diagrams here https://cloud.mail.ru/public/Gt4G/kt1TuyVop https://cloud.mail.ru/public/Tt1K/K658Y9549 https://cloud.mail.ru/public/nBX2/3DY5VBnHL Or even better to talk to Ab Hoving direct himself, we are very lucky still to have opportynity to directly talk to such PEOPLE directly... #1120 -parral arrangements , everything correct, all as You said. ps As far as I understood from J.Budriot , french type parral - will be without tackles, some kind of fixed ones.
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Another observation, means suitable for 1:100 and smaller scales ship models, which could be usefull for making accurate and not looks " bulk " as often happens, " round and throat seizings " to use one strand taken from thiniest thread You have, or even better to use special very thin , like a kind of mono threads, made by Gutermann ,seria Skala... than bigger N , than thiniest thread...
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Regarding printed bloks of any sizes and shapes, less than 2 mm and still perfect in shape,I would say,they are same or , even better in this respect than wooden cnc blocks from "His Models" or other cnc wooden blocks supplier - I mean" spares" for plastic models, not fo r wooden ships models ... present days I saw many our collegues offer this service... I saw "dafi" making wide range of such staff including rigging details and gun barrels and so on, on SOS I saw a few offers of printed items for scale models as well... in Russia they also available, but due to nowadays iron curtained,it is not an option anymore :(... but I think You much better know than me about all aspects of resin duplicatings and printings and where to find them ...I mentioned it just in case, and based on my small experience ... what would be better, but again, this is just my private opinion...
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Good day John, Yes, it were just my remarks after vewing posted photo.. and mostly because I did same " mistakes" when I was busy with my model, after all I have 1/3 part of rigging made from unprocessed sewing threads, 1/3 were corrected when I purchased very simple but workable rope making maschine and the rest of ropes I made in simulation mode :))) like this: cable from sewing thread how to use athread strait from a spool, without making cable - in the photo there is a thread before and after "processing" it turns out, of course, not what can be done with a cable making device, but differently better than it was on the spool, unprocessed ... * cut off about a meter * I clamp one end in a vise * I pull it slightly, just so that it does not sag and holding the other end I begin to twist it in my hands along the lay ... I twist it as tightly as possible ... at least until the density of the strand looks like a normal rope * then I pull it slowly/tightly until the "reserve" is selected, so to speak by lengthening ... it is felt, the thread first stretches and then begins to resist, and if you pull further, you can break it ... * in this maximally elongated state, I hold it for several seconds and paint it right away continue keeping it tight- I stretch along a cloth moistened with paint * I slowly release it and hang it up to dry ... as it dries, you can repeat the procedure again for fidelity ... well, something like this
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Your Bounty , She is nice ! Very nice and accurate model in all details! For me pesonaly, I like how ship model looks with full sails on... in my opinion , sails don't hide too much on deck.. at least yards could be trimmed on side a little bit on more sharp angle. What do You think, on this current built model, if only lower sails to make furled... all others, top and top gallant - undone?...
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Good day John, Nice job! I liked tgat bronze color which You mixed - looks quite real! Some observations, *on the photo, breech ropes looks too loose in their structure... like an ordinary, unprocessed threads , or it is ? Do You make your own ropes or purchase them or just using ordinary thread?... the last one doesn't look nice on the model. If there is oportunities to replace them for scale ropes it would be nice, or if not, there is some trick how to make ordinary sewing thread looks more tight, more suitable for the model rigging without using rope- making machine... *gun's recoil blocks looks too large/ on the photo ... may be 1.5 mm would be better? As I know, these days any size of blocks could be printed on demands ... * upper part of gardel block knight looks wrong in shape/has too sharp edges, there could be difficulties in main yard rigging later on... All the best! Kirill
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Good day Keith, You are welcome, Did they , those museum models and pictures, help You to find sails position of your model? Which of sails combination did You choose?
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I've checked... it was not I expected to see.... :)))) I would prefer to rigg my parrals in "Dutch style" , at least as Ab Hoving shown... with tackles and other details... as it seems to me more interesting :)))
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