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kirill4

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  1. kirill4
    some funny things from our seamen life... recently one of my colegue shared this video ... this guys , instead of gulls , they are brave ! They are traveling from ship to ship in big group and try to find where is food for free, ... they have funny faces :))) and even can bite if someone crossed private borders ! :))) .... the Chief Mate asks them to go away because they shitted all over deck of his vessel and hide fish in wrong places... but they don't agree with his demands https://cloud.mail.ru/public/iJn8/pjcR49xRR
  2. kirill4
    Once again I would like to return to this briliant work of Michael D. - look at this magic transformation plastic in wood by using simple stuff... if it so easy, why everybody do not do the same? :)))
  3. kirill4
    To remove paint from plastic , many use a “mole”- this is a special liquid, usually used to clean the clogs of kitchen and sewer pipes, the name will differ in other countries of cause ...
  4. kirill4
    As I understood looking at foto of your model, your already started to draw ornamentations while You didn't paint hull yet, didn't You ? If this is the case - it is wrong choise of painting sequence ... need to be done it other way around
  5. kirill4
    What I would like to note, looking at the situation from this days and my own experience , there are more easily and more predictable ways exist how to get wooden effect on painted plastic . I used dry pastels because in that time when I began my model I didn't know about other more easy and effective ways to reach wooden effect... but I would like to admit that dry pastel method gives low price and fast drying effect and great possibilities for correction untill You fix results by varnish.... this I could say advantage of using dry pastel powder... with some experience it works good ... at least I keep in in my arsenal together with other more modern stuff I would like to recommend You closely study painting technics which Marc (SR) and Michael (Vasa) use for their models , also consider that those PLAID mediums which numbers I mentioned above specially designed for making these vintage and wooden effects on painted surfaces. I know there are more special sets of paints of different makers exist for creating wooden effects... and from this point of view using dry pastel powder as staining medium may be not so handy as using special designed stuff?
  6. kirill4
    how many parts difficult to say... make some 50 ml of this mix by your own taste - it must be good rich in color... when applied on the surface it should covered painted area good... excess need to remove clean water wet brush or cotton stick or some pice of clean rags etc - there no need detailed advises - just mix and try yourself... light color base - use dark wash and vise versa
  7. kirill4
    for painting standing rigging I used diluted free mix of some black-umbra-brown-gold ocher and some FolkArtAntiquingMedium No 811, 817 and matt varnich and some spirit for liquidifing this mix... but actually it was not necessary to mix such many colors :))) after mixing it becames something as dark grey-brown color or sort of... so why don't use this couple of colors I don't remember...:) for coloring running rigging I used mix of golden ochre and umbra and matt varnish and alcohol spirit... maybe added some raw sienna 452.... But I would like to say , that coloring ropes by this stuff very inconvenient! ... Yes it coloring good and deep, drying fast but sticking effect to the fabric very weak and when rigging your model every now and than need to repaint piece of rope where paint loosened and fall apart... much better and handy in use - to use mix of artistic oil paints diluted in white spirit and tick oil - this will dry longer but gives excellent effect!!! - see master class by Dmitry Shevelev where he demonstrates his painting technics oil paints for ropes and bitumen for hull ,etc.
  8. kirill4
    this way I painted entire hull and deck... *later on I discovered for myself acrylic paints PLAID-FolkArts , same company produces very nice medium for wooden and antic effects FolkArtAntiquingMedium, 59 мл (art/No 811, 817, 819) ! *Masts and spars were painted by using PLAID paints and their mediums and other ordinary artists acrylic paints of suitable colors as well. *For imitation wood grains on the masts and spars I used thin wire brush. Here for the base color I used black spray first and than PLAID 936 barn wood color paint - applied by soft brush... and for finish colors I used mixed paints of gold ocher and umbra ordinary artistic acrylic paints which I applied by wire brush... for aging-wood finish FolkArtAntiquingMedium No 811, 817 were used - wire brush as well! *for painting other small detais such as blocks, knights ,kevels etc I used desert sand or beige acrylic sprays ,than PLAID caramelo\raw sienna 452 and than one of FolkArtAntiquingMedium, 59 мл (art/No 811, 817, 819 or when they were white plastic or bright colors I used strait raw sienna 452 and than one of FolkArtAntiquingMedium, 59 мл (art/No 811, 817, 819... without primer ATTN after painting need to give paint couple of days for complete polymerization and even after that be better to coat it by matt acrylic varnish !!! or there will be great risk to destroy fresh paints layer
  9. kirill4
    spirit could increase drying speed I guess... d-wash detergent for better sticking to the surface as I could guess (but that one need to add a really small drop/end of toothpick ...?
  10. kirill4
    OK my experiments with paintig... years ago, may be I was in the same amateur position as You ... I saw people doing amaizing things with painting plastick/ I was interesting in wooden effect only in that time(2010 ?)... 01. Dry Pastel I read somewhere that dry(dry only! not oil pastel) artistic pastel first need to be powdered and than this powder need to be mixed with water+vodka or any spirit and with adding some small drop of dish washing detergent ... it need to be quite concentrated solution...than this mix could be use as aging///staining ///woodening stuff ...color of pastels You could choose by yourself... but most preferable it should be @earth@ colors - more close to the wooden material in visual appearance... here You could see results of this my early experiments :))) *all ingredients were reasonable low prices, works as expected... *when dry and if You like results all work need to be fixed with deep matt acrylic varnish *if don't like - easily could be washed away by brush and flow water *all mixture could be applied by artistic brush on the preliminary primed surface - mandatory use sand or variations of ochre colors as base/ I used acrylic spray paint only of some noname Chinese maker... I think Tamya acrylic spray or any other makers will be good as well/ acrylic...I don't know how other kind of paints will interact with this hand made aging stuff? :)- *all excessive quantity of that aging mixture could be removed from the surface by water wetted brush or under flow water - this way You could adjust colors depth - to apply or remove this mixture by your own taste. *warning there is a risk of excessive vodka consumption... than would be difficult to complete process on this day, but bright side that it could be continued in any other days when author will be back in focus again... :))) here You could see results
  11. kirill4
    Good day Ferrus Manus, I will replay on a day, how did I paint my model... it is not optimal way as I understood now,when saw more easy and more effective solutions with special mediums for weathering and woodejing effects, but ok I will tell you what I did in that time... All the best!
  12. kirill4
    Nice observayion!!!... I think You are right...it is the same !:)))
  13. kirill4
    But this variant of transformatiom plastic tonwooden is my lovely :))) https://karopka.ru/community/user/14122/?MODEL=460592 Корпус: основной цвет грязно коричневый (на глаз), далее сухая кисть темперой - сиена натуральная и охра светлая, потом битумный лак с расстворителем 1:1. Палуба: песочный, проливка тамия - темно коричневая и снова сухая кисть темперой - сиена натуральная и охра светлая. Body: the main color is dirty brown (by eye), then a dry brush with tempera - natural sienna and light ocher, then bituminous varnish with a 1:1 thinner. Deck: sand, tamiya wash - dark brown and again dry brush with tempera - natural sienna and light ocher.
  14. kirill4
    will try - look at wooden effect, bitumen on ochre base ,not accurateness of his modelling
  15. kirill4
    as soon as plastic transferred into wood , than You could paint décor patterns ... colored strips, triangle and so on... I 'll share my experience , how I did it on my model...if You wish... all said above just my suggestions without You questions :))) ... please ask what You would like to ask... All The Best Kirill
  16. kirill4
    Good day, Dear friend, Sorry I didn't see Your request ... what can I do for You? First of all, I'm sorry for my "funny" English... sometimes You be need to read between strokes ... If I could, I would like to pay Your attention for proper painting sequence\ this part of Your building looks has some weak points for me... As seems to me , You was a little bit harry up with painting and decoration... if You would like to reach some wooden effect on plastic , than first of all You need to paint entire hull or / and other parts of the model in basic color... or even better, first need to paint model in primer, than to paint it in base color, than to use finish color and same time You could use different kind of stains or weathering stuff in this stage.... for reference , I woulld like strongly to recommend to You closely study the way how Ab Hoving painting his models and reach perfect wooden effect in my opinion... https://modelshipworld.com/profile/31631-ab-hoving/ there are a few more slightly different way of making "wood "from plastic -see how Marc \@Hubac Historian @ coloring his SR or how Michael D manage magnificant transformation plastic in wood with his Vasa project , and but all those methods have common that first You need to apply basic color, as usual it is variation of ochres or sand colors and after that You could try to use some brownish stuff which finaly gives wooden effect of Your plastic model...
  17. kirill4
    in continuation of using bitumen, today one of our colegue posted his result of using bitumen for aging effect - applied above acrylic paint... by my opinion looks pretty good! http://karopka.ru:443/forum/messages/forum190/topic32388/message1547646/#message1547646
  18. kirill4
    Good day Marc , I used it, as dilute solution for additional staining sails and for that parts of decor, where I used semi gold leaf... to enhance relief... it works good... when bitumen dry, color of the sails became 4 or more times pale\ brightened compare to the wet sails just colored by diluted bitumen... I didn't try it on naked\unpainted plastic or for staining ropes, for that, for the ropes- by my opinion would be better to use artistic oil paints of proper colors diluted in danish oil... it makes more realistic effect in colors and appearance than brownish colors which gives bitumen... I didn't try it yet(artistic oils) , but I impressed how it works looking at D.Shevelev models rigging... https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=335674#p335674 https://www.shipsofscale.com/gallery/dshevelev/french74/index.html diluted bitumen he uses for hull masts and spars staining... but I think I already many times mentioned this modeler and technics he used as good example of craftsmanship
  19. kirill4
    There is no trouble with it / that sticking effect ,if only You use it as aging effect stuff- means in very low concentration , when bitumen diluted in "white spirit "solvent (W.S. is neutral to acrylic paints as far as I could see on my model) it is ... it dries completely. When use it as it is, without solvent - it will never dry 100% - this his specific is good for materials conservation purposes but not for ship modelling :)))
  20. kirill4
    But it could be usefull not only for ropes... for everything else You want see aging...hule, paints , exelent for the gold paint and gold leafs as aging/ vintage medium - same effect as we can see on Vic SR...
  21. kirill4
    Oh, I see now...but it is just strange ...most of the high quality aging efects /chemical which I have - they all origin USA and came from USA to Russia...and now You need to order this simple bitumen from outside... Sorry ,it was myvjoke that of 200ltrs burrels with bitumen someone could order if need it :)))
  22. kirill4
    it is good when used as solution in white-spirit ... concentration You could adjust by your own test... for light brownish effect - need to add a small drop of this bitumen for 30-50 ml of white -spirit thinner...
  23. kirill4
    Marc, Why You need bitumen? ... it is good stuff for vintage weathering effect , I could say , for almost any material : from wood-plastic-to fabric ... but interesting... why You mentioned it now\ and need to order delivery from other country ... this bitumen is a simple stuff which costs almost nothing... every shop specialized on handcrafts hobby usually has it on stock ?
  24. kirill4
    :))) https://flagma.ua/lak-bitumny-bt-980-o5169654.html
  25. kirill4
    Good day Vic, It sounds interesting!!! All The Best! Kirill

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