bluenose2
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bluenose2 reacted to mtaylor in To stain or not to stain and when?
I'd stain before gluing. I only use stain occasionally, like ebony as I'm trying to get away from the toxicity of that wood.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in bending planks
thnx vaddoc. I have maple and oak on hand. The reason for my choice of mahogany is it isn't too harsh of a contrast between the walnut planking but just enough to show another wood. Anything such as oak or maple would be too much of a contrast and draw your eye to this band. I know mahogany has a larger grain than walnut, so I will pick through my mahogany stock to find a sample with a much tighter grain. Hope it works.
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bluenose2 reacted to hornet in bending planks
Ripping to 1mm and soaking, heating then bending should work. Maybe you could also score the rear of the planks at close intervals with a No 11 blade before attempting to bend. This has worked for me in the past.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in bending planks
Thnx. I have an electric plank bender and a custom jig for bending. I suspect that the wood is too thick. I will re rip at 1mm x 4mm and see how it goes. I wanted a contrast in wood to ofset a solid walnut hull.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in bending planks
Thnx everyone. I have an electric plank bender and a custom jig. Worked well on the 1st planking and the 1 mm walnut. I believe I will rip some more mahogany at 1 mm and double plank this area. I was going for a variation of wood on the wales to break up a solid walnut look.If it still breaks oh well I will try another type of contrasting wood.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from hornet in bending planks
Thnx everyone. I have an electric plank bender and a custom jig. Worked well on the 1st planking and the 1 mm walnut. I believe I will rip some more mahogany at 1 mm and double plank this area. I was going for a variation of wood on the wales to break up a solid walnut look.If it still breaks oh well I will try another type of contrasting wood.
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bluenose2 reacted to hornet in bending planks
I have found mahogany to be very brittle at the best of times. I’m not sure that soaking it for an extended period will make much difference. I suggest you rip it down to 0.5 mm and use it as a veneer over limewood or something similar.
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bluenose2 reacted to mtaylor in bending planks
A couple of questions.... Is the grain straight. If not, it will break. Soak and then heat (I use an old curling iron). Repeat as needed to get the bend you want. It is possible that the wood is just too dry to be used.
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bluenose2 reacted to BETAQDAVE in bending planks
Another method would be to plane or sand the wood into much thinner planks which will bend much more readily. Then soak or steam the planks to make them more pliable and bend enough layers of these thin planks to total the required final thickness around a form matching the shape required and clamp to dry. When dry, laminate the layers with a thin layer of glue between and clamp the layers back on to the form and let dry. With this method you can bend planks into very tight bends and there will be very little if any spring-back. Once trimmed and sanded they should be very easy to apply.
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bluenose2 reacted to Jaager in bending planks
Wood contains a glue-like lignin - heat loosens its bonds for bending - the function of the water is to
allow efficient heat transfer. No part of the wood is soluble in water. The prolonged soaking will only
rehydrate the wood - undoing 50 years of seasoning and encouraging any fungus present.
Lignin is affected by anhydrous ammonia - an explosive and dangerous industrial chemical.
Household ammonia is 5-10% - too dilute to make it anything other than smelly water as far as wood bending.
What plane are you bending? Down on the frames = you are stuck with heat bending. Up/down in the plane of
the planking = spilling - not bending.
Now that I think about it- while not a pleasant prospect, if your stock is thick enough - you could carve both curves.
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bluenose2 reacted to Snow in Painting a ships hull
Hey mate how ya going
I recently built the amati adventure and it called for an off white colour called tallow .i found a book called ship modelling simplified by frank mastini ( great book) i recommend it to all, but anyway the colour was white with 2 or three drops of black and 3 or drops of yellow ,i think it turned out great good luck.
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bluenose2 reacted to thibaultron in Painting a ships hull
There were two types of early "anti-fouling" type coatings used below the water line: White Stuff and Black Stuff. The White Stuff was used in colder waters, the Black Stuff in tropical climes. The Black Stuff was a dark brown to black color the White Stuff was an off white.
Vallejo Ivory 70918 in the Model Color line is suposted to be a good match for White Stuff.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from John Allen in Scissors
John,
The rings are larger and make them easier to use. Another plus is they grind the nose to a needle sharp point. Perfect for close work. One of the blades has micro serrations so line does not slip out during cutting.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Scissors
John,
The rings are larger and make them easier to use. Another plus is they grind the nose to a needle sharp point. Perfect for close work. One of the blades has micro serrations so line does not slip out during cutting.
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bluenose2 reacted to John Allen in Scissors
Blue 2,
Sports academy has a pair similar to those stellar scissors, if I remember correctly 5 or 6 dollars. They stay sharp even when cutting wire in addition to line.
The one advantage to the stellar scissors the larger rings may be a lot more comfortable for fat finger folks, and probably worth the price difference.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from BETAQDAVE in Scissors
Hello everyone. I have just received the best pair of scissors yet. Designed for fly tying but perfect for our hobby. They are the Stellar Scissors 2.0. Very good price point. You won't be disappointed. And no I don't work for this company. It should be in your tool box. Go to risingfish.net. Dylan is a great guy. Please check it out.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from Canute in Scissors
Hello everyone. I have just received the best pair of scissors yet. Designed for fly tying but perfect for our hobby. They are the Stellar Scissors 2.0. Very good price point. You won't be disappointed. And no I don't work for this company. It should be in your tool box. Go to risingfish.net. Dylan is a great guy. Please check it out.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from thibaultron in Scissors
Hello everyone. I have just received the best pair of scissors yet. Designed for fly tying but perfect for our hobby. They are the Stellar Scissors 2.0. Very good price point. You won't be disappointed. And no I don't work for this company. It should be in your tool box. Go to risingfish.net. Dylan is a great guy. Please check it out.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from RichardG in Scissors
Hello everyone. I have just received the best pair of scissors yet. Designed for fly tying but perfect for our hobby. They are the Stellar Scissors 2.0. Very good price point. You won't be disappointed. And no I don't work for this company. It should be in your tool box. Go to risingfish.net. Dylan is a great guy. Please check it out.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Looking for good copper foil
I have used the copper tape from Lee Valley tools. Very good adhesive with no coating and can be cut easily and burnished if required. It is 2"x15'. Stock number is SS410. Check out their web site as I believe they ship to the States.
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bluenose2 reacted to reklein in ships guns
According to F Kershner, Shapeways now makes a carronade for the Syren in 1/64. $12.50 for 8. His pics looked good.
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