bluenose2
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bluenose2 got a reaction from thibaultron in Hull repairs
As this is a static kit I can't get into the back side. I checked for movement between bulkheads but there isn't any. I suspect it is a shrinkage issue as all planks were soaked to get them to conform to the contour of the barrel back hull.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from thibaultron in Hull repairs
6 years ago I built a Dumas Barrel back boat. I have noticed that two of the planks have separated at the joints. My question is this a repairable issue? I used the correct Chris Craft stain supplied by the supplier but don't have any supply of it any longer. Any recommendations would help.
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bluenose2 reacted to Gregory in milling wood
Try both and see what happens..
It would be hard to know without having the wood in hand.
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bluenose2 reacted to Roger Pellett in milling wood
In milling cedar for wood canvas canoes it is generally understood that flat sawn wood is more flexible than quarter sawn- wood with vertical grain. Ribs that are 5/32/in thick x 3in wide and have sharp bends are flat sawn. Planking which is 3/16in thick and wider and not subject to tight bends ideally is selected from quarter sawn stock.
The same principle would apply to model ship planking, except in either case try to avoid pieces where the grain in the plane to be bent runs out to the bent surface as this is where cracks are likely to start.
Roger
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bluenose2 reacted to Roger Pellett in milling wood
It appears that we are confusing two separate issues.
How to orient the grain
How to set things up to saw the planks
The first will determine how well the wood will bend. If there is “grain run out” in the plane of the wood being bent the wood is more likely to fail. Grain runout means that the grain, not being parallel to axis of the plank reaches the surface. Since the grain boundary is weak the wood separates at this point. Choose the straightest grained pieces that you have.
The second has no bearing on the wood’s flexibility. It is a matter of which technique you feel more confident in using. I would rip slabs to the 5mm dimension and then slice .5mm strips but if you can do it the other way OK.
Roger
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bluenose2 reacted to bruce d in milling wood
OK, have a look at this and compare the end grain of your wood with the examples in the video.
If your walnut is quartersawn, you should be able to get good slices off the narrow edge. If not, you will have to experiment. Based on my own experience, and I am no expert, you will know pretty quickly if thin planks from the narrow edge are going to be any good.
HTH
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bluenose2 got a reaction from bruce d in milling wood
My table saw and blades are fine. That isn't the issue. My question is if you look at the end of a 3/4" x 4" walnut plank, which way would you rip it to get the most flexible planking? Would you stand it up and rip .5mm strips then rip it to 5mm or lay it flat 3/4" rip .5mm strips then cut to 5mm? And sorry as I said I am talking about walnut, the second planking a lot of manufactures supply in your kit.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in milling wood
My table saw and blades are fine. That isn't the issue. My question is if you look at the end of a 3/4" x 4" walnut plank, which way would you rip it to get the most flexible planking? Would you stand it up and rip .5mm strips then rip it to 5mm or lay it flat 3/4" rip .5mm strips then cut to 5mm? And sorry as I said I am talking about walnut, the second planking a lot of manufactures supply in your kit.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in milling wood
Sorry all, I am talking walnut. The wood that Mamoli includes in the kit for second planking. Just looking for some advice on which way I should rip my 1x4 planks as the manufacturer would have done.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in milling wood
The dimensions are 4mm x .05 mm and 5 mm x .05. Modelers Central sells for $.64 ea US and a British site sells for .05 pounds each. I require 60 pieces so with the exchange on both suppliers I'm looking at nearly $100.00 dollars to get it. I can cut my own for the power required to run my table saw.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in milling wood
I don't know what species of wood that Mamoli or Corel uses, but I have a good stock of American oak left over from other cabinet jobs. If you look at the end grain of a 2x4 you'll see concentric rings. I can't see them on my oak as the grain is very tight.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from bruce d in milling wood
Hi Les here. I am finishing up my Beagle but have run out of walnut second planking. To source it pre cut will cost about $100.00 to get it shiped to my house here in Canada. I have some 1x4 planks in my shop. I can cut it on my table saw but I don't know in which direction I would do it. I tried this before and the planks cracked when trying to install them. So do I stand it up tall on the four inch and cut to thickness and then cut to width or the reverse?
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bluenose2 got a reaction from Canute in Power Sander
Hi Les here. I purchased a micro lux micro sander #81266 from MicroMark tools. If you require something for detail work this may be a good choice. I use mine regularly for removing glue build up in tight areas and paint bleed on trim. Best part is after you have used up the adhesive sanding pads you just go buy adhesive sheets for random orbital sanders and cut to size.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Power Sander
Hi Les here. I purchased a micro lux micro sander #81266 from MicroMark tools. If you require something for detail work this may be a good choice. I use mine regularly for removing glue build up in tight areas and paint bleed on trim. Best part is after you have used up the adhesive sanding pads you just go buy adhesive sheets for random orbital sanders and cut to size.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Latex wall paints?
Hello Les here. I agree with reklein on this issue. I was suckered into trying latex paint. Hey a litre or quart is dirt cheap compared to model paints. Also I tried a rattle can on my 1/72 Snowberry. Covered all the detail and had to use laquer thinner to remove it from the photo etch. I don't have experience with Vallejo but I use Tamiya and this is a very good product.
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bluenose2 reacted to reklein in Latex wall paints?
Wall paint is far too heavy bodied for model work. The pigment is too heavy and will cover any detail work. Acrylic craft paint will work but it too is heavy and the pigment isn't fine enough either. Vallejo acrylics are probably the best you can get these days.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Bow decoration
Thnx all. I'll do some more searching then try out my carving skills.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Bow decoration
Thnx all. I'll do some more searching then try out my carving skills.
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bluenose2 reacted to Captain Poison in Bow decoration
Shapeways 3D printing maybe is your solution,check the site.. https://www.shapeways.com/create
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=figurehead
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bluenose2 reacted to GrandpaPhil in Bow decoration
The learn to carve group project that is on this site is an excellent resource to learn carving. I could not carve prior to coming to this site.
I have now successfully carved two figureheads (and multiple other stern type decorations for other projects).
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bluenose2 reacted to allanyed in Bow decoration
Les, If you are not set up for carving in wood, some clays are an alternative. Look at the build log of the Royal Katherine by Doris as she goes into a lot of detail on decorations using clay.
Allan
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bluenose2 reacted to Roger Pellett in Bow decoration
Look on Amazon under toys and games. Toy stores sometimes carry a line of resin cast animals.
Also try model railroad sites. S scale model railroads are 1:64 scale. I recently saw a group of rabbit hunters for sale as model RR scenery. Two Beagles were included but I don’t remember the scale.
Roger
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bluenose2 reacted to druxey in Bow decoration
Well, as nothing seems to be available, how about trying to make it yourself?
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bluenose2 reacted to Dr PR in Soldering Photo Etch
I have a resistance soldering unit, but I have never had really good results. This is mainly because I can do most things satisfactorily with a regular temperature regulated soldering iron, so I have never really learned how to use the resistance unit. The main problem with the resistance soldering unit that I have is that it uses carbon rods for the soldering tip, and they are brittle and break VERY easily. They are also pretty expensive and I go through a bag of them pretty quickly.
I have no idea why they use the brittle carbon rods.
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