Ian B

Hi

I have almost saved enough pennies to buy my next build. Is there a recommended reference book I should buy I don't seem to be able to find a AOS for this ship?

What!  No tea and chocolate biscuits?  Or at least a dried ring where the mug was LOL    Nice selection ….

wow, lovely build--- tempted to do this myself

'Comparing to longboat in 1/48th scale Bounty is huge.'  Don't believe what they say 'size does matter' 🤣

super start---

going to be a smart model the way its going--well-done

Hi

Where are you in the world?  Just being nosey LOL

On 12/12/2019 at 5:40 PM, Penfold said:

Thank you all for the kind welcome. Here’s my Renown...

You must be very pleased with how yours turned out

On 12/14/2019 at 10:04 PM, Penfold said:

Just had a look at your build log for your steam pinnace... very nice work. I still have a way to go, clearly. 🤔

Thank you , I am still new to all of this and learning all the time. I used this build to practice some techniques for later projects 

Welcome, Why not post a picture of your Renown. I have just finished that one too only changed it to reflect another boat?

5 minutes ago, shipman said:

Hmpf! I've had two Unimat lathes for years, an SL and a later white enamel square shaped thing. I understand these are capable of tackling clock/watch work, so I would imagine 8mm brass belay pins would be possible. The trouble is, I've never used a lathe, so haven't a clue where to start. Speeds? Cutting tools? For such a 'simple' job I am in danger of over complicating what needs to be done. I've been toying with using an electric drill and files (which should be possible), then I remembered I have these lathes tucked away. Any advice please?

I'm following this thread with great interest as I would love to be able to use a lathe to form metal parts.  I have a Proxxon wood lathe which I am very happy with for most wooden tasks ...

I like the time count   more of us should follow suite...

certainly making great progress  

In the story 'Treasure Island' Jim hid in the apple barrel listening to Long John Silver. Some images, films, TV and drawings show it on deck others below deck, perhaps the actual book says where it is?  not sure this helps this thread but just a passing thought  LOL

what a great opportunity to get a super workshop I am sure it will be fab. I am moving house in 3 weeks time and for the first time ever wont have a space/workshop to use from day 1. So looking at getting something built ---the only issue is size-- I keep going bigger my wife constantly scaling back my plans LOL....

I would be interested to see how you get on, some friends of ours wants a model ship to display and looking around the old junk shops to find one that needs a lot of loving so its cheap to buy. Then I said I'd help get it into a half decent state--

On 11/13/2019 at 8:47 AM, wefalck said:

This topic seems to pop up over and over again. A search through the various building logs might be useful ...

 

As druxey said, the 'dimples' are barely visible on the real ship from a view metres away. They are, however, one of those details that, when left off, may make the coppering look rather sterile. On the real thing you can see that there is something, but you can't really tell what it is, when you are some distance away.

 

What you can do depends very much on the scale you are working in. In scales of 1:48 or above, I would perhaps imprint lightly the nailing into the copper sheet using a copying wheel (sewing supplies) and then flatten them again from the back with a round piece of hard wood. This gives you quite realistic 'dimples' that are not proud of the surface.

 

There are very thin copper adhesive strips where you may use the same technique for even smaller scales. I have used them for rivetted plates, but not for copper sheathing yet using the above technique.

 

Always use a glue that sets by evaporating the solvent, i.e. contact cement, and not something that polymerises, i.e. CA cement. Copper ions can inhibit the polymerisation. Also CA can react with the oxide film on copper, leaving bright spots, and it is difficult to remove excess cement. Excess contact cement can usually be wiped off with a solvent.

Yes, this is a very re-occurring theme. I am following them as I will have similar questions later on my first attempt.  Can I suggest there is a item logged under 'modelling techniques to go along with the planking and rope already there? 

very much looking forward to seeing 'how' you go about this...:)

thank you all, she is a 'test' for some of the techniques I have seen on builds on here.  I must admit Im pleased with her.... looks like a first for this kit on here ...

At last its finished, I had to bit a of a push on as I am moving house soon and almost everything is packed up. I now need to pack up all my modelling tools, it will be a couple of months before I start again. I need to build a garage and workshop first..LOL

Good luck, I shall follow with interest as I am thinking of doing this at some point

Finally glued down the two compartments-- mmmmm need to straighten the copper band at the end of the gun ...

Steering mechanism installed

Well I have just ordered the paint set from CMB--- I reckon ordering mid November is the soonest  I can order the kit and say its for Christmas

very nice