Ian B

main topgallant mast
 
Stay and backstays were rigged in a similar manner as on the mizzen.

 
main topgallant mast
 
 
 
rudder chains
 
After pondering a while about which way to fix them I decided to follow the example of the well known contemporary Bellona model. Another possibility would have been the way it's done on today's Victory. However interesting it would have been to show the partly installed emergency steering it seems to me a strange configuration with the rudder pendants also in place and leading over the side of the ship. Albeit in Harland's 'Seamanship in the age of sail' this configuration seems to be mentioned as permanent installation with the ends of the pendants made fast in the mizzen channels I choose the simpler way.
 
During work I noticed the missing strip of wood on marking the lower end of the lower counter, which gives the location where to fix the chains, and put it in place.
 

 
missing strip of wood at the lower counter and an impression how it could look with rudder chains the Victory-way
 
 

 
ruder chains in place - they seem to hang low but that length is needed to let the rudder play

A quick update on the Bellona: I am back working on the rear section of the main deck. This is a mix of Session #3 (Planking of the deck) and Session #4 (building of the ward rooms and officers rooms).
 
The Section "D" is added to the front of Section "E", placing a lid on the six 32 pounders guns recently installed: 
 

 

 
You can see the axle of the rear capstan, protruding out of the deck. Planking is then continued: I am using strip of about 20 cm long (10 meters in real life) and I hope it is not too long for such period ships. I am also trying to replicate the four planks staggered arrangement, traditional of these vessels.
 

 
The Captain's Pantry and Wardroom Pantry is glued to the deck: 
 

 

 
The deck (at least the rear section) is treated with three coats of Wipe-on-Poly to darken the planks and make them more resilient. You can see the difference of colors on the pictures.
 
We are now moving to Session #4 (I am no longer following the order of the CAF instructions). This part is the assembly of the Officers' cabins, also called canvas cabins, as they were divided by removable pieces of canvas.
 

 

 

 

 

 
The walls are strengthened by some strips of wood. The glass panes are made with tracing paper.
 

 

 

 

 
Yves
 
 
 
 
 
 

Keep up the good work its looking really promising, I find its all about setting small targets to achieve each one you mentally treat as a 'model'  that way steady and sure progress without that feeling 'will i ever get this done' feeling LOL LOL 

I will attempt to do the belaying pins with this method, to Chucks dimensions.  The one I did with the hardwood dowel was an excuse to try out the Dremel drill stand as a lathe.

very nice touch Nils-----  I'd would be very pleased with that too

Hi Daniel I have been following this for a while as this may be my next build-- with all the extra detail you are adding an average kit build is turning into something special---thanks for taking time to share it with us...    

very nice touch Nils-----  I'd would be very pleased with that too

The bulwarks were a little problem because of their design.  In real life, they were constructed like most bulwarks, except a thin strake at the deck line was omitted to form scuppers.  That was contrary to what I usually build.
 
Normally, I would continue planking above the deck line to form the bulwarks, and the scuppers are drilled out later.  This method usually creates strong bulwarks attached to the planks below.  I add false "ribs" (or frames) along the bulwark, later.
 
However, on this boat, there is a missing strake along the deck lines.  How can I attach the bulwark to the hull without frames.  I was a little afraid that by omitting a strake along the deck line, and using false frames, the bulwarks would be weakly attached, fragile, and easily damaged.  However, it appears to be okay, even though I used false frames along the bulwark...
 
The bulwark plank was made from thin birch plywood, like is used in model airplane construction.  False basswood frames were attached with PA glue.
The top of the ribs were cut off and sanded smooth to the plywood...

The bulwark was tightly taped to a metal ruler so I could make the lower portion of the frames all the same length.  The excess wood was snipped off with sprue cutters and sanded smooth to the ruler...
 
The bulkhead being tested for fit...
Howser holes and other openings were cut out, and thin copper wire was shaped to form frames around the hawser holes.  Small copper wires were inserted in some ribs to help install the bulwark, give it strength, and shape it to the lines of the hull.  I then primed the parts...


Holes drilled in the top plank received the wire pegs, and each frame was hit with CA glue.  Here's the final installation...

 

Note that I have not spoken much about the running gear - I got the ship with shafts fitted and props on her, but no motor mounts, no engines, no rudder.  
 
I started with the rudder...here's the build process for that.  I started with a big chunk of brass and a band-saw:

 
Then a brass rod for the rudder post:

 
Took it to the drill press and smashed a hole into it:

 
And then soldered the shaft into place on the rudder:
 
 

 
A bit of time on the bench sander later, I have a nicely formed brass rudder that's a nice fit!
 

Lol, they do have some neat stuff over there.
 
However, this forum is second to none in terms of the sheer amount of information and skill sets available to model builders.
 
Model Ship World has literally changed my life.
 
I would never have have advanced to the skill level I am at now if I hadn’t found this forum.
 
This forum is the only reason my last few
ship models exist.

The level of craftsmanship here is far beyond what I would have ever believed possible.
 
The really advanced model builders are incredibly helpful and friendly, which has helped me tremendously.
 
Here’s the Mercury:

I’m still working on the inner covering, a couple of pieces at a time.
 
The hull will get spackled and sanded before it gets the outer covering, in the near future.

There is only a build log on an Italian website, but it is not very detailed. I will try to do my best!

Also, I specify that this build will be balanced between aesthetics and feasibility, it will not necessarily be historically accurate.
 
To change from the planking, I worked a bit on the rudder, creating lines to imitate the planks. I also added 1.5x4 walnut pieces around it as I have seen on other builds:

 
I started to make the deck planks, cutting 6 cm pieces, then blackening the sides with a felt pen. I then fix them to the deck with neoprene glue:
 

 

 
 

Welcome, Nathan! That's an impressive display case. You'll find that we have many members who enjoy working on a variety of subjects in different kinds of media.

Hello everyone!
 
I'm going to start my first build log with the King of Prussia from Corel. This is my 4th wooden ship, following the big HMS Prince from Constructo which kept me busy for more than a year. It's a smaller but quite detailed ship that I chose, my first from Corel. Here are some pictures of the box: 


Start of the build:

 
 
Scratch build interior (will be visible through a hatch):
 

 
 

First planking:



 
I decided to paint this part directly in white without a second planking, because I was satisfied with the initial result, which brings out the lines of the planks. Here is the first coat, which shows some areas that need further sanding:

Then I will cover the deck and add the inner planking.
Feel free to share your thoughts on this build !
 
 

yes--- and with their carriages on to the kit barrels they look right in proportion-- well to my eyes anyway
 
Cannon Carriages - 9-pounder, 1:72     Cannon Carriages - 18-pounder, 1:72  

I've just finished the standing rigging and never even noticed the cannon size issue on the plans when I was doing them🤪
 
I used the kits barrels but used the wooden carriage kits from Chris Watton's 'Victory model's instead of the cast ones...
 
 
 

Double Punch & Die Storage Box
RP Toolz
Catalogue # RP-WB2
Available from RP Toolz for €22,00
 

 
RP Toolz make some of the best Punch & Die sets that you can buy. These include the regular large, small and hexagonal sets. When you buy these products, they are packed into a small cardboard box, with a plastic bag containing the punches and hammer. Whilst it’s hardly an elegant solution, this is fairly typical of the market, but RP Toolz has realised that you may want something a little better and organised, especially if you have multiple sets of punches hanging around on your workbench. To this end, they have now released a number of laser-cut plywood boxes that are specifically designed to hold the components for their own releases. Today, we take a look at the twin punch storage box.

The old look!
The Double Punch & Die Storage Box is flat-packed into a large zip-lock sleeve with a product label attached. Inside the box, there are NONE laser-cut parts of creamy-pale ply, and a single sheet of instructions. This set has also been designed so that the laser-numbered parts are assembled in part number order, which is a nice touch. A sliding lid, emblazoned with the company logo, will keep your punches nice and dust free. 

 

 

 

 

First of all, we need to remove the parts indicated in yellow on the instructions sheet. These are several discs and the ends of one of the die storage slots. A scalpel makes clean work of this.

 

Part 1 (base) is now glued to Part 2 (side panel), using Titebond adhesive. Make sure the side panel is square to the base using a right-angle tool.

Part 3 is now located into the notched side panel and glued in position.

Part 4 simply sits on top of Part 3 and is glued into position. Make sure you get the orientation correct with regards to the large/small punch sides.

 

Part 5 is the last internal floor and again sits in the side wall notches. Again, I glue this in place. 

Parts 6 & 7 are the side panels with the routed slots. These fit nicely together with a little push (and a few spots of glue)

Part 8 is the last side panel and has a scalloped top edge to make it easier for your fingers to slide out the lid (Part 9). That is it! So simple to build.

 

Here you can see what a difference it makes to have all your punches in order. It certainly helps those of us who like a little order in our lives.

 
Conclusion
A very nicely designed and produced box that is easy to assemble and really helps to restore karma to an untidy tool storage area I have. These are keenly priced and, in my opinion, very much worth the investment. Functionality and beauty rolled into one.
My sincere thanks to RP Toolzfor the review sample seen here. To order directly, click the link at the top of the article.
 

 
 

Hi Peter @flyer
 
I haven't rigged the Royals--- but might...
 
yes, the stove can be seen slightly (all of the top) -- better than not at all-- I spent so much time doing it I thought it  a shame to hide it,

@mort stoll easy -- they were just plastic coated electrical wire---stripped with just the end insolation left on end for the sponge and the bare copper for the shift and painted  you can make loads in minutes ...and completely strip wires twisted at the end for the cork screw.

@mort stoll easy -- they were just plastic coated electrical wire---stripped with just the end insolation left on end for the sponge and the bare copper for the shift and painted  you can make loads in minutes ...and completely strip wires twisted at the end for the cork screw.

Hi Peter @flyer
 
I haven't rigged the Royals--- but might...
 
yes, the stove can be seen slightly (all of the top) -- better than not at all-- I spent so much time doing it I thought it  a shame to hide it,

Hi Peter @flyer
 
I haven't rigged the Royals--- but might...
 
yes, the stove can be seen slightly (all of the top) -- better than not at all-- I spent so much time doing it I thought it  a shame to hide it,

@mort stoll easy -- they were just plastic coated electrical wire---stripped with just the end insolation left on end for the sponge and the bare copper for the shift and painted  you can make loads in minutes ...and completely strip wires twisted at the end for the cork screw.

yes--- and with their carriages on to the kit barrels they look right in proportion-- well to my eyes anyway
 
Cannon Carriages - 9-pounder, 1:72     Cannon Carriages - 18-pounder, 1:72  

Thanks, I have just added your build to my favourites-- gives me lots of ideals-- might go fully furled all round..
 
 
Better keep it light on here its not my build log     Its a great build and looking forward to seeing how it turn out ..amazing I bet!!!

yes--- and with their carriages on to the kit barrels they look right in proportion-- well to my eyes anyway
 
Cannon Carriages - 9-pounder, 1:72     Cannon Carriages - 18-pounder, 1:72