mtdoramike

From the pictures, it looks great, I wondered how the kit would look once released. But with that said, two glaring issues for me is way to much metal fittings in this kit. It would have lightened the load a bit by using plastic fittings in a lot of places, the second issue is the use of fiber board, which I detest in kits, it has a tendancy to be brittle and if you have a warped piece, you can't soak it and flatten it out like you can wood.
 
 

1:200 Prinz Eugen
OcCre
Catalogue # 16000
Available from OcCre for €499.99
 

 
 
 
Prinz Eugen was an Admiral Hipper-class heavy cruiser, the third of a class of five vessels. She served with Nazi Germany's Kriegsmarine during World War II. The ship was laid down in April 1936, launched in August 1938, and entered service after the outbreak of war, in August 1940. She was named after Prince Eugene of Savoy, an 18th-century general in the service of Austria. She was armed with a main battery of eight 20.3 cm (8 in) guns and, although nominally under the 10,000-long-ton (10,160 t) limit set by the Anglo-German Naval Agreement, actually displaced over 16,000 long tons (16,257 t).

(USS) Prinz Eugen during Atomic bomb tests
 
Prinz Eugen saw action during Operation Rheinübung, an attempted breakout into the Atlantic Ocean with the battleship Bismarck in May 1941. The two ships destroyed the British battlecruiser Hood and moderately damaged the battleship Prince of Wales in the Battle of the Denmark Strait. Prinz Eugen was detached from Bismarck during the operation to raid Allied merchant shipping, but this was cut short due to engine troubles. After putting into occupied France and undergoing repairs, the ship participated in Operation Cerberus, a daring daylight dash through the English Channel back to Germany. In February 1942, Prinz Eugen was deployed to Norway, although her time stationed there was curtailed when she was torpedoed by the British submarine Trident days after arriving in Norwegian waters. The torpedo severely damaged the ship's stern, which necessitated repairs in Germany.
 
Upon returning to active service, the ship spent several months training officer cadets in the Baltic before serving as artillery support for the retreating German Army on the Eastern Front. After the German collapse in May 1945, she was surrendered to the British Royal Navy before being transferred to the US Navy as a war prize. After examining the ship in the United States, the US Navy assigned the cruiser to the Operation Crossroads nuclear tests at Bikini Atoll. Having survived the atomic blasts, Prinz Eugen was towed to Kwajalein Atoll, where she ultimately capsized and sank in December 1946. The wreck remains partially visible above the water approximately two miles northwest of Bucholz Army Airfield, on the edge of Enubuj. One of her screw propellers was salvaged and is on display at the Laboe Naval Memorial in Germany.
From Wikipedia
 
The kit

 
Prinz Eugen is a brand new release from OcCre, hot on the heals of Amati’s recent Bismarck, both in the same popular 1:200 scale. The kit itself occupies a reasonably large but quite heavy generic box which has the specific kit artwork printed in colour and attached to the box lid. As is custom with OcCre, there’s a cut-out in the lid so the fittings box can be seen. Actually, that’s only one of two fittings boxes that are supplied with this release. The whole kit is also cellophaned too, to protect it further. The box is quite sturdy and lifting the lid off reveals that the contents are stored within a compartmentalised structure which is folded to separate the strip material from the sheets and plans etc. 

 
The first fittings box has a staggering number of metal parts and is quite heavy. The metal looks like a zinc alloy and the parts are all very sharply cast with nothing in the way of flash present. You will find ship’s boats etc. here amongst others. I still recommend that any cast parts are washed in soapy water first and then primed with a metal etching primer before you use them. Also in this box are pins for planking, turned wooden parts, eyelets, glass beads and chain etc.






 
The fittings container is first removed to that the rest of the pack can be split apart. When you remove the box, there is a paint reference chart supplied.


 
Inside the box main compartment are the numerous sheet materials, all bound in tough, shrink-wrap film. These materials consist of different colours (grades?) of MDF and also numerous sheets of ply. All are cleanly laser-cut with no real evidence of scorching. Parts aren’t numbered, so you will need to refer to the parts plans that are included. This is very common as engraving numbers everywhere can very much increase production time. The packing is very good, and none of the various MDF or ply sheets appear to have any warping.









 
Hidden amongst the flat sheets are EIGHT sheets of photo-etch brass, protected by wraps of tissue paper. Production quality is excellent, with small retaining tabs for parts and nicely produced multi-layer etching for the various part reliefs. There is only one small area which has an etch stain, but they can be common on larger sheets. These sheets include rails, deck structure sheathing etc.

 


 
Always a very good start. Also in this compartment is a Jiffy-bag containing a second clear box of fittings, identical in size to the one on display through the box lid. This box contains a vast number of cast parts which are all very crisp and clean. With this being a brand-new release, the moulds will be in A1 condition. The box also contains rigging cord and some turned wooden parts.





 
A cardboard tube also contains two long, full size glossy sheets which depict Prinz Eugen in both side elevations and also a view down until the decks.



 
The instructions for this kit are actually very good, being driven in photo-format. The sequences are split into an alphabetical format, so A, B, C etc. with the kit parts for each individual and extensive section, given an alphabetical prefix eg. Part W49 for build section ‘W’ etc. It’s a nice, simple way to approach thing and will help the builder locate parts far more easily too. These are printed in colour over many folded A3 sheets, and if you wanted to access them elsewhere, the whole set of instructions are available for download from OcCre, here. If you would like some very visual to guide you, then OcCre have their own YouTube channel where the whole model can be viewed at every stage of construction. Here HERE for that. 





 
The smaller compartment contains the various wooden strips, such as lime for hull planking. There is also some metal strip included here as well as block balsa! This is the first time I’ve seen this in a kit, and the idea is that you chop this up to exact size blocks and then sit between the lower bulkhead areas to add rigidity and also to help shape a solid, lower hull. I personally don’t feel these are needed, but they are there if you need the material. 


Perhaps one aspect of Prinz Eugen that I’m not very keen on is the planked deck. At 1:200, the supplied materials are grossly overscale, and this is why Amati decided to go for laser-engraved deck sections for their Bismarck. I wish OcCre had done the same for this kit too. My suggestion with Prinz Eugen is to cut up the strips so they are a lot narrower (or buy narrower strip material) and use that instead, instantly improving the overall appearance of the completed model.
 
Conclusion
This is actually a very nice, beautifully presented kit that shouldn’t prove too difficult to the average modeller. Construction is straightforward and very well illustrated. All parts are mapped so they are easy to find, and the kit castings (love castings, or loathe them) are sharply made with excellent definition. As already stated, the only thing Prinz Eugen needs is to do the deck planking differently. Yes, it will take longer, but the finished result will be far more rewarding. You’ll need some space to display the finished ship too, with her being 1077mm long when complete! Prinz Eugen is definitely worth your consideration if you hanker to build something without masts or sails, but don’t want to be unfaithful to your hobby of building ships in wood!



 
 
 
 
 
 
Prinz Eugen Paint Set
OcCre
Catalogue # 90506
Available from OcCre for €59.99

 
OcCre have also made available a custom acrylic paint set for Prinz Eugen, consisting of eleven acrylic paints and one large bottle of acrylic satin varnish. The paint bottles are the fairly standard white-capped plastic type, but each of these contains 30ml of paint, with the larger varnish bottle being 100ml. The bottles don’t state whether the paints could be thinned for airbrushing, and I get the feeling that they may be brush applied.




 
 
Our sincere thanks to OcCre for providing the products you see reviewed here on MSW. To purchase directly, click the links in the title for each item.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The Model Shipways Bluenose 1:64 scale, should measure out to about 33" when finished. 

Check out www.modelexpo.com
 
The one I used before I started making my own was the MX25 Hull planking vise 18" long. Model Expo has it for $49.99. 

When asked this question, I usually recommend one particular model and that is the Model Shipways Bluenose. It's fairly inexpensive, won't require a bunch of tools, minimal rigging and the most important part is the shape of the hull, which is an arrow shape and due to the shape, one of the easiest hulls to plank. I think everyone on here will attest to hull planking as being one of the most difficult if not the most difficult part of model ship and boat building and the second would be rigging.
 
As far as tools go, here is my go to list:
 
Rotary tool (I use daily)
small brass hammer
mini needle nose pliers
mini cutting pliers
hand drill
Good assortment of micro drill bits as well as standard drill bits
and a coping saw
 
Materials:
A good CA glue I use mainly medium viscocity and thin viscocity in some areas (and a lot of it)
A good CA glue kicker
small mini clamps
push pins
mini square (or make your own)
a bunch of sand paper from 80 grit to 600 grit
KEEL CLAMP = I highlighted this because all the tools in the world can't overcome a twisted and warped keel. I usually make my own with 1"x2" wood boards and screws.
 
There are a ton of other stuff, but this would get you started. 
 
With the above tools, I can build any ship or boat models and have, which at present, I'm closing in on 200 models from boats, ships, planes and a few automobiles, which include wood and plastic. 

When asked this question, I usually recommend one particular model and that is the Model Shipways Bluenose. It's fairly inexpensive, won't require a bunch of tools, minimal rigging and the most important part is the shape of the hull, which is an arrow shape and due to the shape, one of the easiest hulls to plank. I think everyone on here will attest to hull planking as being one of the most difficult if not the most difficult part of model ship and boat building and the second would be rigging.
 
As far as tools go, here is my go to list:
 
Rotary tool (I use daily)
small brass hammer
mini needle nose pliers
mini cutting pliers
hand drill
Good assortment of micro drill bits as well as standard drill bits
and a coping saw
 
Materials:
A good CA glue I use mainly medium viscocity and thin viscocity in some areas (and a lot of it)
A good CA glue kicker
small mini clamps
push pins
mini square (or make your own)
a bunch of sand paper from 80 grit to 600 grit
KEEL CLAMP = I highlighted this because all the tools in the world can't overcome a twisted and warped keel. I usually make my own with 1"x2" wood boards and screws.
 
There are a ton of other stuff, but this would get you started. 
 
With the above tools, I can build any ship or boat models and have, which at present, I'm closing in on 200 models from boats, ships, planes and a few automobiles, which include wood and plastic. 

I’ve built the Dumas PT Boat.  It is very nice.  I enjoyed it very much.

This will be a build of a pleasure/river/lake boat, which was designed by Pat Tritle of the Miss Chloe. I will be working off of a set of plans that I obtained from P. Tritle. She will be roughly 26-27" in length and Beam will be about 7.5". I put in an order for the wood needed to build the Chloe from National Balsa. I started off by cutting out all of the frames and various parts from the plan sheet and gluing them to card stock type heavy paper in order to make templates for current and future use. I then tacked up the working plans and will stare at them for a few days in order to get prepared for the build. 
 
Disclaimer: I may decide to make some changes here and there, so don't expect a straight from the plans type of build. You may be dissapointed.

The Model Shipways Bluenose 1:64 scale, should measure out to about 33" when finished. 

Check out www.modelexpo.com
 
The one I used before I started making my own was the MX25 Hull planking vise 18" long. Model Expo has it for $49.99. 

When asked this question, I usually recommend one particular model and that is the Model Shipways Bluenose. It's fairly inexpensive, won't require a bunch of tools, minimal rigging and the most important part is the shape of the hull, which is an arrow shape and due to the shape, one of the easiest hulls to plank. I think everyone on here will attest to hull planking as being one of the most difficult if not the most difficult part of model ship and boat building and the second would be rigging.
 
As far as tools go, here is my go to list:
 
Rotary tool (I use daily)
small brass hammer
mini needle nose pliers
mini cutting pliers
hand drill
Good assortment of micro drill bits as well as standard drill bits
and a coping saw
 
Materials:
A good CA glue I use mainly medium viscocity and thin viscocity in some areas (and a lot of it)
A good CA glue kicker
small mini clamps
push pins
mini square (or make your own)
a bunch of sand paper from 80 grit to 600 grit
KEEL CLAMP = I highlighted this because all the tools in the world can't overcome a twisted and warped keel. I usually make my own with 1"x2" wood boards and screws.
 
There are a ton of other stuff, but this would get you started. 
 
With the above tools, I can build any ship or boat models and have, which at present, I'm closing in on 200 models from boats, ships, planes and a few automobiles, which include wood and plastic. 

When asked this question, I usually recommend one particular model and that is the Model Shipways Bluenose. It's fairly inexpensive, won't require a bunch of tools, minimal rigging and the most important part is the shape of the hull, which is an arrow shape and due to the shape, one of the easiest hulls to plank. I think everyone on here will attest to hull planking as being one of the most difficult if not the most difficult part of model ship and boat building and the second would be rigging.
 
As far as tools go, here is my go to list:
 
Rotary tool (I use daily)
small brass hammer
mini needle nose pliers
mini cutting pliers
hand drill
Good assortment of micro drill bits as well as standard drill bits
and a coping saw
 
Materials:
A good CA glue I use mainly medium viscocity and thin viscocity in some areas (and a lot of it)
A good CA glue kicker
small mini clamps
push pins
mini square (or make your own)
a bunch of sand paper from 80 grit to 600 grit
KEEL CLAMP = I highlighted this because all the tools in the world can't overcome a twisted and warped keel. I usually make my own with 1"x2" wood boards and screws.
 
There are a ton of other stuff, but this would get you started. 
 
With the above tools, I can build any ship or boat models and have, which at present, I'm closing in on 200 models from boats, ships, planes and a few automobiles, which include wood and plastic. 

Can you recommend a good keel clamp? One I can Order in the us?

When asked this question, I usually recommend one particular model and that is the Model Shipways Bluenose. It's fairly inexpensive, won't require a bunch of tools, minimal rigging and the most important part is the shape of the hull, which is an arrow shape and due to the shape, one of the easiest hulls to plank. I think everyone on here will attest to hull planking as being one of the most difficult if not the most difficult part of model ship and boat building and the second would be rigging.
 
As far as tools go, here is my go to list:
 
Rotary tool (I use daily)
small brass hammer
mini needle nose pliers
mini cutting pliers
hand drill
Good assortment of micro drill bits as well as standard drill bits
and a coping saw
 
Materials:
A good CA glue I use mainly medium viscocity and thin viscocity in some areas (and a lot of it)
A good CA glue kicker
small mini clamps
push pins
mini square (or make your own)
a bunch of sand paper from 80 grit to 600 grit
KEEL CLAMP = I highlighted this because all the tools in the world can't overcome a twisted and warped keel. I usually make my own with 1"x2" wood boards and screws.
 
There are a ton of other stuff, but this would get you started. 
 
With the above tools, I can build any ship or boat models and have, which at present, I'm closing in on 200 models from boats, ships, planes and a few automobiles, which include wood and plastic. 

Well, here is the finished product. This has been one of my all time favorite builds.

You do what we all do, the walk of shame. Don't worry, your in good company, I have had to do this walk a few times lately.  

Thanks Craig, I tried to stay pretty close to the original, but you know me, I had to give it a little color. I also extended the rear hatch close to an extra inch toward the transome to give a bit better access to the rear rudder assemblies, which always require constant adjustments on the double rudder boats to keep them tracking properly. I also squirted in clear silicone into the observation pod to make it water tight and ordered some glazed portholes from England to use on the observation pod since the portholes in the kit were all unglazed. I also used glazed portholes on the side portholes in the hull just in case it were to be in rough seas and water splashed up. I told you I would get her done. I think she is beautiful and the old sea goddess still captures my heart even after 50 years when I last saw her moored off of the water front in St. Thomas USVI. That was a magical time for me as a teenager and it brought back fond memories that I would get lost in for a while when I was building her.

You do what we all do, the walk of shame. Don't worry, your in good company, I have had to do this walk a few times lately.  

Well, here is the finished product. This has been one of my all time favorite builds.

I was able to pick up one of the Trumpeter 1/200 scale US battle ships USS Missouri at a very good price $225.00 from a fellow modeller who believed in the old phrase "I can do anything tomorrow", but as with most, his tomorrow never came. But at least he was smart enough not to leave his wife stuck with trying to get rid of it when his tomorrows come to an abrupt end. How ever, I do love you tomorrow modellers because you keep me busy, God bless you.
 
But one consolation is the kit even if not built is magificent just to set and stare at, which I do quite often while building the Calypso.   

That's a very cool little boat, Mike! I love models of boats we rarely see. Looking forward to following your build.

Well, here is the finished product. This has been one of my all time favorite builds.

This is about the same as cleaning an airbrush, except you don't have to break it down, you just run paint thinner through the nozzle, which you really can't do on a rattle can. Is this equal to a $200.00 airbrush setup with hours of practice under your belt? no. But it's a cheap and easy solution to the air sprayer systems. Even if I get one to two applications with it, it's paid for itself. 

I picked up a twin pack on Amazon for less than $12.00. I see it is made in the USA, which sold me right away since we don't make that much anymore.

Well well well, I'm going to have to look into this as well. The old rattle can paints are starting to get harder to find in my area whether it be Home Depot, Lowes or Ace Hardware.