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Everything posted by Jack12477
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Thanks, Greg. Got a lot of inspiration and how-to from watching your excellent builds.
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Hi Tom, Yes I did use their Hold & Fold tool a lot, also their Black Acrylic cutting surface. Both worked very well. The Hold & Fold is a must have for bending the brass, I've tried other methods, e.g. pliers, and none worked as accurately as the Hold/Fold. There is a picture of it on page 1, 4th and 5th photos of this build log. I've found that both MegaHobby in NJ and HobbyLinc in GA both have pretty competitive prices on both the Trumpter & Tamiya kits as well as Toms MetalWorks PE. And the shipping to my location is pretty fast.
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I guess I am a glutton for puishment, Lou, the Liberty ship SS John W Brown is on the bench. Probably start after New Years. Thanks for the compliments, Mark, Carl, Lou.
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Finally finished the model. Didn't install as much PE brass add-ons as I had expected in the beginning; I just gave up trying to sort out what pieces on the PE Sheet went where and for what ships fixture. I did do the brass railings around the ships main deck, but that posed its own problems. The bottom half of the railing has a cross-hatched mesh attached. Gluing that to the brass rails posed a major challenge. I tried using a piece of picture frame glass, laid the pieces out and applied CA (first the Gap filling 15 sec and then second set used the very thin 3 sec) to glue the two pieces together. Unfortunately both types of CA filled in a lot of the mesh which got accentuated by the gray primer. Tried drilling some of it out but after a while my eyes got so crossed I had to quit. Have to find a different way of clamping/gluing for next time. Model came out pretty good for a first time attempt at P&PE (plastic and photo-etch). Learned a few things I can use on next build. Attached are the photos: (Even tho I took these outside in daylight with the white balance set for daylight the colors still look wrong - maybe it's the monitor)
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Lighting the Work Area
Jack12477 replied to Richmond's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I just replaced my incandescent standard base bulbs with GE or Phillips brand LEDs like the ones Gaetan posted. I have 2 swing arm desk lamps plus the overhead ceiling fixture to light my work area. -
Yep, Certifiably ! Me included ! I decided to join them but not on Seydlitz, I'm building a US Destroyer in 1:350 scale with PE.
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There's a family owned grocery chain in NY based out of Rochester called Wegmans. They produced these figures including the table for Wegmans. This is just part of her collection. A little bread, cheese, wine and some chocolate cake for the holidays
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At least you guys received your copy. I ordered mine before Thanksgiving (US) and am still waiting for it to travel cross-country from Oregon to New York (4 weeks now) . So far have not received a response to my email and PM inquiries on order status. Update: Just received a personal phone call from Bob Friedman regarding my order. Seems our delightful US Postal Service screwed up again. And for some unknown reason, none of my emails or PM reached him. Bob tracked the package to my local post office who in turn marked it as undeliverable and sent it back to Bob but the USPS online tracking listed it as "Out for Delivery". In short Bob is sending me a new copy today via FedEx. Thanks Bob.
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No but the rest of the fleet had to leave their safe harbor to make way for the Carolers. Fortunately the shipyard is in the cellar, altho it is getting a little crowded down there at the moment. [For those who don't recognize them these are the Byers Choice Carolers.]
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LETTERING
Jack12477 replied to timjina's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Testors makes a Clear and White background inkjet decal paper. Try Testors and DecalGear.com - Decal Accessories for scale-model hobbyists -
Some updates: Got the main superstructures glued to the deck along with the tiny deck apparatus and then glued the deck to the hull. After totally mangling the PE Brass stairs (only 2 on the PE strip) I ended up using the molded plastic stairs from the kit. Now to tackle the PE brass radar mast and the stern depth charge racks, then figure our where the railings go, if any. A fellow modeler sent me a pictorial book on the Fletcher class destroyers, so I do have a ton of reference photos from the time period to look at. I'm not drilling any new holes in the deck until I complete the railings and depth charge racks. Got some messed up glue joints to clean up and repaint and some other minor touch ups. And I even used a sewing needle to apply the glue so it wouldn't smear and it still smeared anyway.
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Carbide steel defeated by mere plastic !!!!! Will diamond tips fair any better <he wonders> ? Interesting template they provided. Looks good so far, Greg.
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Thanks for the link, Kevin, but I already have a hold and fold from The Small Shop in Oregon which I've been using on this build for some of the PE.
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It has multiple heat settings as well as fan speed settings and I can hold it far enough away to keep it from melting the plastic. I think it just needs warm dry air to cure the paint quicker. Or I can just be patient and wait for it to cure on its own.
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Thank OC. That is how I paint, one direction, don't drag brush back over itself when painting. My artist son taught me that. I'll have to experiment with hair dryer, have one I use for heat bending wood ala Chuck's technique.
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Thanks, OC. I have the WW II US Navy set (2 boxes/sets of 6 colors) from LifeColor - found a US source online in New Jersey that ships next business day. That's what I've been using, except I did not thin them down, just used straight out of the bottle. I'll try thinning them down.
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Yes, medications can interfere with insulin production and use by the body. My wife drinks a lactose free fat free filtered milk which has only 6 g of sugar compared to 12 g with regular milk. Don't know if you have anything equivalent over there. Talk to your pharmacist about the dry mouth condition, there is a non-prescription (over-the-counter in our lingo) medication for that called Biotene (here in US) comes in a spray or drops format. Make sure there are no interactions with her other medication tho. I brew green tea with no sugar, no lemon, no milk, etc. and drink that instead of sodas (colas). Oh and I had to look it up but I think NIKBUD is referring to millimoles per liter (mmol/L) - so 7.0 mmol/L is the same as 126 mg/dL (milligrams per decaliter) which is used here. Normal fasting blood sugar is less than 100 mg/dL or 5.6 mmol/L.
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I've been following his build here of the Mighty Mo. Very impressive work. Yes, Greg, I have been slowing coming to the same conclusion about brush work obliterating the PE detail. I guess I got spoiled by Floquil because it didn't much matter where you hand brushed or air-brushed it on. Guess I have to learn new tricks
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My Admiral takes her blood sugar reading before she eats anything in the morning ("Fasting" or "rest" as NIKBUD phrased it) , then again 2 hours after breakfast, then again 2 hours after lunch, 2 hours after dinner and keeps a daily log (her meter will keep a log also). Your wife should not eat after 8 PM in the evening, unless her blood sugar drops dramatically. What NIKBUD said above is what we were told also, except his numbers must be metric because I can't relate to his readings. Here (US) the numbers are mg/dL and range from about 80 mg/dL to less than 200 mg/dL, over 200 mg/dL is too high and under 60 mg/dL is very low blood sugar. In the US, the American Diabetes Association standard is a hemoglobin A1C of 6.5 to 7.0 is diabetic under control, i.e., well managed, 6.0 to 6.4 is pre-diabetic, below 6.0 is non-diabetic. Over 7.0 not good. Food portion and balance is key also; picture a dinner plate, divide in half, then divide the one side again in half - one quarter is protein, one quarter is carbohydrate and the half is leafy green vegetables. The protein and carbohydrate portion should be about the size of a woman's palm. That's the US ADA recommendation, don't know what EU and UK recommend. Also as we age our A1C increases with age. (Just had this conversation with my Admiral's doctor today). In my Admiral's case, this is caused by too low a blood sugar, i.e. less than 60 mg/dL. Keep some orange juice on hand, test her blood sugar when she gets a dizzy spell and give her a small glass of it if her blood sugar drops too low - wait 15 minutes and re-take her blood sugar reading. Hope your wife's health improves. Managing diabetes is not easy.
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I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (L) in the rattle can to prime everything first, either the flat gray or gloss white.. Depending on the part, I will spray prime the whole sprue and then cut the part(s) free from the sprue. While I love Floquil paints and used them for years, their DiSol thinner was Xylene based and that's a nasty chemical to be around. Always had to have large box fans running, and windows open when using it, whether by brush or air-brush didn't matter. Eventually switched over to their water based PolyS brand, which had the same colors and fine pigments as Floquil but without the nasty chemical. Now I'm strictly water based acrylics. So I guess the acetone based True Color is off the table as a choice. Too much of a hassle otherwise. Too much like using the old Floquil. Carl, are those artist quality chalk sticks you're showing in the photo above? Or the sidewalk chalk kids use ? I have something similar but they are in little square boxes (one color per box) each box about 1 inch cubed. But not the fancy box like yours
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My Admiral is also type 2 diabetic, she uses this Bayer brand Contour meter to test her blood sugar. She periodical gets more lancets and test strips at the pharmacy. Very easy to use, very accurate, and not expensive. Is it available where you live?
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