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Jack12477
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Everything posted by Jack12477
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No but the rest of the fleet had to leave their safe harbor to make way for the Carolers. Fortunately the shipyard is in the cellar, altho it is getting a little crowded down there at the moment. [For those who don't recognize them these are the Byers Choice Carolers.]
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LETTERING
Jack12477 replied to timjina's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Testors makes a Clear and White background inkjet decal paper. Try Testors and DecalGear.com - Decal Accessories for scale-model hobbyists -
Some updates: Got the main superstructures glued to the deck along with the tiny deck apparatus and then glued the deck to the hull. After totally mangling the PE Brass stairs (only 2 on the PE strip) I ended up using the molded plastic stairs from the kit. Now to tackle the PE brass radar mast and the stern depth charge racks, then figure our where the railings go, if any. A fellow modeler sent me a pictorial book on the Fletcher class destroyers, so I do have a ton of reference photos from the time period to look at. I'm not drilling any new holes in the deck until I complete the railings and depth charge racks. Got some messed up glue joints to clean up and repaint and some other minor touch ups. And I even used a sewing needle to apply the glue so it wouldn't smear and it still smeared anyway.
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Carbide steel defeated by mere plastic !!!!! Will diamond tips fair any better <he wonders> ? Interesting template they provided. Looks good so far, Greg.
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Thanks for the link, Kevin, but I already have a hold and fold from The Small Shop in Oregon which I've been using on this build for some of the PE.
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It has multiple heat settings as well as fan speed settings and I can hold it far enough away to keep it from melting the plastic. I think it just needs warm dry air to cure the paint quicker. Or I can just be patient and wait for it to cure on its own.
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Thank OC. That is how I paint, one direction, don't drag brush back over itself when painting. My artist son taught me that. I'll have to experiment with hair dryer, have one I use for heat bending wood ala Chuck's technique.
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Thanks, OC. I have the WW II US Navy set (2 boxes/sets of 6 colors) from LifeColor - found a US source online in New Jersey that ships next business day. That's what I've been using, except I did not thin them down, just used straight out of the bottle. I'll try thinning them down.
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Yes, medications can interfere with insulin production and use by the body. My wife drinks a lactose free fat free filtered milk which has only 6 g of sugar compared to 12 g with regular milk. Don't know if you have anything equivalent over there. Talk to your pharmacist about the dry mouth condition, there is a non-prescription (over-the-counter in our lingo) medication for that called Biotene (here in US) comes in a spray or drops format. Make sure there are no interactions with her other medication tho. I brew green tea with no sugar, no lemon, no milk, etc. and drink that instead of sodas (colas). Oh and I had to look it up but I think NIKBUD is referring to millimoles per liter (mmol/L) - so 7.0 mmol/L is the same as 126 mg/dL (milligrams per decaliter) which is used here. Normal fasting blood sugar is less than 100 mg/dL or 5.6 mmol/L.
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I've been following his build here of the Mighty Mo. Very impressive work. Yes, Greg, I have been slowing coming to the same conclusion about brush work obliterating the PE detail. I guess I got spoiled by Floquil because it didn't much matter where you hand brushed or air-brushed it on. Guess I have to learn new tricks
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My Admiral takes her blood sugar reading before she eats anything in the morning ("Fasting" or "rest" as NIKBUD phrased it) , then again 2 hours after breakfast, then again 2 hours after lunch, 2 hours after dinner and keeps a daily log (her meter will keep a log also). Your wife should not eat after 8 PM in the evening, unless her blood sugar drops dramatically. What NIKBUD said above is what we were told also, except his numbers must be metric because I can't relate to his readings. Here (US) the numbers are mg/dL and range from about 80 mg/dL to less than 200 mg/dL, over 200 mg/dL is too high and under 60 mg/dL is very low blood sugar. In the US, the American Diabetes Association standard is a hemoglobin A1C of 6.5 to 7.0 is diabetic under control, i.e., well managed, 6.0 to 6.4 is pre-diabetic, below 6.0 is non-diabetic. Over 7.0 not good. Food portion and balance is key also; picture a dinner plate, divide in half, then divide the one side again in half - one quarter is protein, one quarter is carbohydrate and the half is leafy green vegetables. The protein and carbohydrate portion should be about the size of a woman's palm. That's the US ADA recommendation, don't know what EU and UK recommend. Also as we age our A1C increases with age. (Just had this conversation with my Admiral's doctor today). In my Admiral's case, this is caused by too low a blood sugar, i.e. less than 60 mg/dL. Keep some orange juice on hand, test her blood sugar when she gets a dizzy spell and give her a small glass of it if her blood sugar drops too low - wait 15 minutes and re-take her blood sugar reading. Hope your wife's health improves. Managing diabetes is not easy.
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I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (L) in the rattle can to prime everything first, either the flat gray or gloss white.. Depending on the part, I will spray prime the whole sprue and then cut the part(s) free from the sprue. While I love Floquil paints and used them for years, their DiSol thinner was Xylene based and that's a nasty chemical to be around. Always had to have large box fans running, and windows open when using it, whether by brush or air-brush didn't matter. Eventually switched over to their water based PolyS brand, which had the same colors and fine pigments as Floquil but without the nasty chemical. Now I'm strictly water based acrylics. So I guess the acetone based True Color is off the table as a choice. Too much of a hassle otherwise. Too much like using the old Floquil. Carl, are those artist quality chalk sticks you're showing in the photo above? Or the sidewalk chalk kids use ? I have something similar but they are in little square boxes (one color per box) each box about 1 inch cubed. But not the fancy box like yours
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My Admiral is also type 2 diabetic, she uses this Bayer brand Contour meter to test her blood sugar. She periodical gets more lancets and test strips at the pharmacy. Very easy to use, very accurate, and not expensive. Is it available where you live?
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I am NOT liking this paint scheme even tho it is authentic to the period (1945). Looks horrible. And I don't know why I bothered with the PE add-ons because the paint is so thick it obliterates the detail. God, I miss the Floquil/Poly-S paints, never had that problem with them, nor did I have a problem with the colors being too dark. And I painted myself into a corner so to speak - I painted the main deck component Navy blue but forgot to paint the roof/decks of all the substructures BEFORE I attached all the guns etc. Even with a 10/0 brush it was a bear getting into the small areas without getting the dark blue all over the sidewalls of the structures - left a few of the deck areas dark gray. It was suggested to me offline that I tone down the blue with a 25% mixture of gray. I may consider that on a future model but given how far I am on this one and given the problems of repainting around the installed guns, etc. I don't think I will do it now. Repainting the main deck would be easy; it's the superstructure deck/roofs that is the major problem. I'm brush painting; not air-brushing this time around. The photos : Sorry for the poor quality ! My Pentax K50 DSLR is broken, all the pictures come out black, a search of the Internet reveals it's most likely the "Aperture Control Module", apparently a common problem in the K30 and K50 models, but Ricoh, who now owns Pentax, doesn't consider it a manufacturing defect so no recall or warrantee repair. The Canon point-and-shoot has close-up capability but not to the extent of the Pentax; the Canon can only stop down to F/8 while the Pentax can stop down to F/32 giving a lot more depth of focus. Anyway here's the photos.
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Denis, some of the ACE Hardware stores are carrying some of the Craftsman brand; also Lowes, but I think mostly the wrench sets in Lowes. I think Black and Decker bought the line.
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One of mine was also sent to Australia from Clonmel Ireland for being a political insurgent but escaped in 1791 from Botany Bay with William & Mary Bryant after stealing the governor's 6-oar cutter, sailing 3,250 miles to Timor.
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But you Dutch arrived here in 1609 and settled in Fort Orange (Albany) in 1614-1615. The "natives" were the Iroquois, Cherokee, etc. And the Stone Houses the Dutch built in Nieuw Dorp are still standing and inhabited.
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It's JACK12477 --- bit off on the id, Ken. The PE brass is proving to be a giant challenge. Firstly, in identifying the appropriate piece(s) and then in bending them. Even with magnification it ain't easy.
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Yes, rules are different for Credit versus Debit - when in doubt always use Credit over Debit.
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Call your credit card company and tell them it's a fraudulent charge. Don't know what the UK laws are but here in the US you are either not liable at all or only get nicked for $50 USD. Either way most cards have fraud protection for the cardholder.
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Thanks, Kop, I do have a hold and fold and the appropriate blade. Got them a while back from The Small Shop in Oregon/Washington area.
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