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Jack12477

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  1. Jack12477
    It's a siphon feed. Badger 150. Thanks for tip on Gator Grip glue. None of my usual online suppliers carry it, but found a new source, Free Time Hobbies, that does carry. What's the shelf life on this glue?
  2. Jack12477
    Decals applied - Here you go Lou ! Just for you ! Considering the scale and the magnification of the camera lens, it's not a bad representation of the original (see below) Other decals from the kit set applied: Now to seal the decals and then start placing all the sub-assemblies on the deck.
  3. Jack12477
    To answer your question Lou, YES !!!!! It's included with the decal set.
  4. Jack12477
    While I await the delivery of the needed thinners, I primed and brush painted the hull halves, and upper structure. glued the two hull halves together. The deck superstructure will wait for now. All the brass add-on have been added and painted. And the splotchy paint has been fixed. Photos follow: Tomorrow (Saturday) morning is back to the ice yacht restoration project before the "monster snow storm" they've been forecasting since last Monday hits us. Up to 20 inches could fall overnight Saturday into Sunday. Good time to stay in the shipyard with some beer, chips and shrimp for sustenance.
  5. Jack12477
    I use an ordinary hand held hair dryer - bought it for about $20 US in Target (big box store) - works fine. I also have the soldering iron/plank bender from (????) and it works fine also. Hair dryer is easier tho.
  6. Jack12477
    Using medium CA 15 second set time
  7. Jack12477
    Lou, I did test both brushes with a jar of plain water, sprayed fine, even adjusting needles pattern so water got wider or smaller as I manipulated them. So it was the paint that was the problem. Re: doors: That's what I was trying to do. Guess I need more practice. And maybe a new set of eyes
  8. Jack12477
    Thanks Carl (You may have but too many pages/posts to dig thru and whose log too).
  9. Jack12477
    Okay, time for a airbrush paint use question. I've tried using both a Paasche and Badger airbrush with the Life Color paints but it's no go. Nothing flows from the nozzle - no matter what pressure setting I use. I even disassembled both brushes and cleaned them thoroughly, still no go. I thought I read a post some place here that said this brand could be used straight from the bottle, undiluted, but I'm thinking that's not true. So what dilution do I need for this paint to work in an airbrush? Right now I've been using Tamiya rattle can primer then hand brushing the Life Color on. I used to know the formula (dilution) for Floquil/PolyS/Model Master but these new acrylics are nice to brush on but airbrush is a new mystery.
  10. Jack12477
    Kurt, you should have used a miniture trowel ! It's more like frosting a cake than painting !
  11. Jack12477
    I lay the piece flat to apply the door, Lou, they still move.
  12. Jack12477
    Yea, now if I can just keep the railings from looking like storm and/or battle damage. Altho that may add some "realism" to it.
  13. Jack12477
    Took some time off from my shipyard to go work on another project I'm involved in, restoring a 1912 35-40 foot Ice Yacht Manhasset. a project our club started 2 years ago but was stymied by lack of a heated large workspace. One of our members let us use his workshop for a while. So we've been disassembling the backbone (aka keel) to inspect the interior for any rot. This involved first removing the basket (aka cockpit) which on this ice yacht is attached to the underside of the backbone. Removing hundreds of recessed and plugged screws from 100+ year old timber is not an easy task. the wood you see in the photos is vertical grain old growth 40-50 rings per inch tongue and grooved timber. Surprisingly, it is in pretty good shape with a minimum of rot. Some photos of the work follow:
  14. Jack12477
    Added more PE brass to the superstructure. I think this piece is now pretty much complete. Still having trouble getting the doors to go on straight and not slip. Mostly it's my hand not staying steady and the CA doesn't give much leeway for adjustments.
  15. Jack12477
    You could use the Hydrocal plaster used by Model Railroader for scenery building, it comes in small quantities.
  16. Jack12477
    Ken, yes, Malinois I took a second look at that one mast. It's the way the holes for those "steps ??" were cast into the mold that makes them slightly askew. They're slightly offset from the rest of the holes. Carl, yes, I'm going to cut them off and replace them before I glue the assemblies to the deck. And thanks for the assist from your dog. Sunny is very good at alerting me when rafter dwellers try to sneak up on me. Heck, she detects the mail carrier, FedEx/UPS driver, politicians, door-to-door proselytizers as soon as they step into the yard even tho she can't see them she can detect their presence. Amazing how she does it tho. She barks as soon as they enter the yard. She even announces our son's arrival before he even exits his car (different bark tone tho).
  17. Jack12477
    That's how they came off the sprue, Ken. They seemed to have been bent during packaging, I think. After I get the rest of the brass on I will revisit them. I may use some brass rod I have and reconstruct them. Oh, I see what you mean! Yea, they do look cranked/twisted around. May have to disassemble them
  18. Jack12477
    Moving right along. Assembled and installed all 13 deck winches. These were more problem than the PE to assemble - had to put down the tweezers and use my "hamhocks" (hands) to hold them. The PE in this kit is a lot easier to decipher than the one for the destroyer. Assembled the hatches and the towers and added the PE, removed the cast on doors and installed PE doors. Hit with some brush on Tamiya primer just to cover them for now. Nothing else has been primed or painted. Pictures follow: Deck winches Hatches Deck structure and towers:
  19. Jack12477
    Glad I did, Greg. That kit is also on my list to acquire.
  20. Jack12477
    Forgot to answer your question, Lou. No, I never got onboard. The ship was never at the pier in the Inner Harbour when we went back to Annapolis to visit our daughter & granddaughter.
  21. Jack12477
    Welcome aboard everyone. Aha Lou, you best be aware of the Corgi - Sunny - she's pretty good at warning me when someone is trying to sneak up on me ! And she doesn't like popcorn so you can't distract her. She has too refined and discerning palate for mere popcorn. But if you wanted to bribe her with some fresh caught Dungenous Crab meat, she might let you sneak by. Not that I am aware of Ken, Lou. And at this scale I'm not about to try to hand-paint one. It would be nice to add tho.
  22. Jack12477
    Spent some time over the holidays reconfiguring my work area and repurposing my old train table so I have more work surface and better organization. Photos of the new workarea follow: After completing the workarea rebuild, I was able to get some time to work on the model. Got the main deck assembled and some PE brass railings attached. Cut a little too much of the bulkhead away for the railings, have to fill in the patch with some Squadron putty to hide the cracks and seams.
  23. Jack12477
    Thanks, Tim, I'll check it out.
  24. Jack12477
    For my next PE Plastic kit I've chosen the 1:350 Trumpeter model of the Liberty Ship S.S. John W Brown. The PE Brass is from Tom’s Modelworks. One of two surviving fully operational Liberty ships preserved in the United States, S.S. JOHN W. BROWN is the product of an emergency shipbuilding program in World War II that resulted in the construction of more than 2,700 Liberty ships. Liberty Ships were a class of cargo ship built during World War II. They were old-fashioned, utilitarian vessels that could be built in a hurry. They got the name Liberty ships because the first one built was named S.S. PATRICK HENRY. The S.S. John W Brown is based in Baltimore MD Inner Harbor and is open for tours and sails. Description Class: EC2-S-C1 Type Liberty Ship Launched: September 7, 1942 At: Bethlehem-Fairfield Shipyard, Baltimore, Maryland Length: 441 feet, 6 inches Beam: 57 feet Draft: 27 feet, 9 inches Displacement: 14,245 tons Gross: 7,176 tons Capacity: 8,500 long tons Armament: Three 3-inch/50 caliber guns; one 5-inch/38 caliber gun; eight 20mm guns. I had a chance encounter with the ship some years ago while taking my Granddaughter, who was 6 years old at the time, on a tour of the Science Museum. While in the museum we saw the S.S. John W Brown pull up to the dock that was just outside the Museum's main entrance. Unfortunately it was late in the day and being a 6 year old she was tired and not too interested in climbing around an old ship. So we just took some dock side photos and planned to return at a later time. Photos of the actual ship: The obligatory box photos:
  25. Jack12477
    Hi Marcus Some of the higher priced plastic kits do include the PE brass; however, all the ones I was interested in do not. You have to buy the PE as a separate item. The two suppliers I mentioned in post #128 above carry the Toms MetalWorks PE brass. For example Toms MetalWorks offers a 1:350 PE kit explicitly for "The Sullivans" kit as well as a 1:350 PE kit that is generic to the Tamiya generic Fletcher class plastic kit. The PE comes in a a variety of scales to match specific kits. Toms also makes a generic PE kit that is just 1:350 scale US Navy doors, and another that is just 1:350 scale US Navy hatches. Any left over PE could be used on another 1:350 scale kit I suppose altho I have not looked to closely into that aspect.

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