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Jack12477

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Everything posted by Jack12477

  1. Jack12477
    Thanks everyone for the Likes, Comments and suggestions. I'm not having a problem picking up and placing the pieces. I have a very good quality set of jeweler tweezers that work well. The problem is keeping the part in place while I apply the glue to it; as soon as the CA touches it the part moves. I'm going to trying the PVA glue that OC uses and a variation on Carl's tweezers to hold the part in place while I apply the glue.
  2. Jack12477
    Did any of them settle in Nieuw Dorp, Chris ? (aka Hurley NY )
  3. Jack12477
    Thanks, Greg. What US ship did you order?
  4. Jack12477
    Actually, I find taking off my distance glasses makes it easier to see, no magnifier needed [YET]. I do have sunlight/daylight LED bulbs in both work lamps, 100 watt @COG , @RGL , do you guys have any tricks you use to keep the PE in place while you apply the glue? It's applying the glue that causes the part to move.
  5. Jack12477
    Some progress photos: looks like a few doors need to be reattached. Keeping them aligned is a bear. I am using a sewing needle with the eye cut off then inserted into a paint brush handle to place the glue but still tricky because the parts move. I'm using Medium CA (15 sec set time). Wondering if the Testors brand tube cement for plastic would work and still hold the brass. Might give me more time to re-position the doors better. The thin CA sets too fast and doesn't allow time to position the piece. I'm scraping the molded on detail off the molded doors but leaving the molded door a little proud so I can position the frame, rather than scrape it flush to sidewall. I will paint the open door openings flat black after I've painted the structure gray.
  6. Jack12477
    It is a metal hook used to attach wool or cloth while it dries, usually attached to a wooden frame or fence. I would guess that the Brits expression is similar in meaning to our Yanks expression "on pins and needles."
  7. Jack12477
    Label on bottle reads "Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue" "for Dark Woods" - no product number that I can find but the UPC code on back is 26000 00710 Says it is good for walnut, oak, cherry and other dark woods. Mine is a 4 oz bottle. In the bottle, the glue is about the same color as chocolate milk.
  8. Jack12477
    Elmers makes a dark brown wood glue, PVA, for use with dark woods like walnut. I used it to glue the deck planks down, it pushes out a liitle between the planks and looks like dark caulk when dried. Lightly sanding the planks removes any residue as does a damp sponge.
  9. Jack12477
    Chris, Card ! Wow! Even more impressive!
  10. Jack12477
    Really nice looking model, Chris. Nice camo also. Did you mask or free-hand the painting? I assume it was air brushed ?
  11. Jack12477
    After spending an entire weekend browsing thru several online Hobby shop catalogs, I finally located a source for the paint colors I need. I've decided to build it as the 1945 configuration as shown in the kit rather than try and research all the changes needed to duplicate the ship as she sits today in the Naval Museum in Buffalo NY. The LifeColor brand had two 6 jar kits with the exact colors called for to do the 1943/1945 paint scheme. I ordered the CS24 and CS25 kits, took an extra couple of days to arrive due to the unusual early November snow storm (8 inches) we got right after I placed the order. So with the right colors in hand, I hand brushed the hull and deck in the 1943/1945 color scheme. Even tho the photos were taken outdoors in sunlight I had a difficult time getting the digital camera to get the colors to my satisfaction (experimented with several white balance settings). Sorry for the poor background in the last two photos, I had to get the model in direct noon-time sunlight to get the color I wanted. The deck is just dry fit, the rest is glued. Oh and I did touch up the bare spots where the paint peeled off.
  12. Jack12477
    Just ordered my copy.
  13. Jack12477
    And the mailman brings 2 dozen catalogs per day (about 20 lbs weight) 99 percent of which never get read and wind up being being tossed in the recycle bin. Yea, OC, we Yanks are a tad crazy. oh and Mark did not mention the house decorations aka lights
  14. Jack12477
    And a bigger basement / house !
  15. Jack12477
    Don't feel bad Tom, you are 2 years younger than me. Glad I could help .
  16. Jack12477
    Same way you started this forum. Go to the appropriate forum - KITS or SCRATCH - on the main page, click on the forum title, In the next screen, click the Green "Start a New Topic" button in upper right and go.
  17. Jack12477
    Never was any good at "circumlocution" !
  18. Jack12477
    I stand corrected ! USS England is NOT at Battleship Cove. Don't know why I thought that, maybe too much of O.C.'s rum! Thanks, Lou, for the PM.
  19. Jack12477
    Hi O.C. welcome aboard. Yes, we may need lots of rum for this voyage.
  20. Jack12477
    That was easy! They cast it in glossy red plastic, which just had to be repainted. At least the rest is cast in dull grey.
  21. Jack12477
    The real USS England is at Battleship Cove in Fall River, MA, couple hours drive from me. Maybe a road trip.! Right now I'm trying to figure out the kit instructions, which only have pictures, no prose, just a bunch of part numbers and no explanation of what the part is. Some I can figure out but not being a Navy vet (Army vet) my knowldge of ships is somewhat limited. Right now I'm trying to figure out what PE part replaces what plastic part. But I will muddle thru.
  22. Jack12477
    Probably going to do her as she appears today in Buffalo, Lou, since I have some photos and can easily get more. There's a WWII Destroyer Escort (last one still floating) berthed in Albany NY, about 50 miles from me, the USS Slater, which if I can find a suitable kit, I would like to model. She was repainted a couple years back in the razzle dazzle camo. What is slowing me down right is figuring out how to do the PE mods, so I am going a lot slower than I normally would with the plastic. Wood is easy to re-do, plastic not so good.
  23. Jack12477
    Pictures just for Carl ! The wood block in the center of the hull is to attach the two 1/16 inch diameter brass tubing that will support the model in the display when completed. The 3 sections of the hull/deck combo are just dry fit together for now. Some touch up is needed on the black boot. The grayish cast on the red hull bottom is the lighting for some reason, not weathering.
  24. Jack12477
    Patience, grasshopper, patience !
  25. Jack12477
    Well after opening up the sealed plastic bags and examining the parts sprues most closing, it appeared I did not have any or enough anyway doors and deck hatches, so I placed an order for another sheet of Tom's MetalWorks PE; those arrived Friday (almost overnight delivery). Then I spent the weekend looking thru the online catalogs of 3 US based Hobby "stores" for paint in the colors used in WWII. Very tedious task. After hours of looking at every paint brand I could find I finally located a set from LifeColor that exact matched the colors I was seeking, comes in 2 sets of 6 colors each. Ordered them, but it will take until 11/20 (next week sometime) to ship them to me from Atlanta, Georgia. Not like the next day delivery of the PE from NJ. In the meantime, I have been painting the lower hull with Vallejo hull red (4-5 coats) and upper hull with some old Poly S (water base) Light and Dark Ghost Grey (several coats). Haven't rolled out the airbrush yet, so far just hand brushing with pretty good results.

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