Jack12477
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Everything posted by Jack12477
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I am NOT liking this paint scheme even tho it is authentic to the period (1945). Looks horrible. And I don't know why I bothered with the PE add-ons because the paint is so thick it obliterates the detail. God, I miss the Floquil/Poly-S paints, never had that problem with them, nor did I have a problem with the colors being too dark. And I painted myself into a corner so to speak - I painted the main deck component Navy blue but forgot to paint the roof/decks of all the substructures BEFORE I attached all the guns etc. Even with a 10/0 brush it was a bear getting into the small areas without getting the dark blue all over the sidewalls of the structures - left a few of the deck areas dark gray. It was suggested to me offline that I tone down the blue with a 25% mixture of gray. I may consider that on a future model but given how far I am on this one and given the problems of repainting around the installed guns, etc. I don't think I will do it now. Repainting the main deck would be easy; it's the superstructure deck/roofs that is the major problem. I'm brush painting; not air-brushing this time around. The photos : Sorry for the poor quality ! My Pentax K50 DSLR is broken, all the pictures come out black, a search of the Internet reveals it's most likely the "Aperture Control Module", apparently a common problem in the K30 and K50 models, but Ricoh, who now owns Pentax, doesn't consider it a manufacturing defect so no recall or warrantee repair. The Canon point-and-shoot has close-up capability but not to the extent of the Pentax; the Canon can only stop down to F/8 while the Pentax can stop down to F/32 giving a lot more depth of focus. Anyway here's the photos.
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Denis, some of the ACE Hardware stores are carrying some of the Craftsman brand; also Lowes, but I think mostly the wrench sets in Lowes. I think Black and Decker bought the line.
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One of mine was also sent to Australia from Clonmel Ireland for being a political insurgent but escaped in 1791 from Botany Bay with William & Mary Bryant after stealing the governor's 6-oar cutter, sailing 3,250 miles to Timor.
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But you Dutch arrived here in 1609 and settled in Fort Orange (Albany) in 1614-1615. The "natives" were the Iroquois, Cherokee, etc. And the Stone Houses the Dutch built in Nieuw Dorp are still standing and inhabited.
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It's JACK12477 --- bit off on the id, Ken. The PE brass is proving to be a giant challenge. Firstly, in identifying the appropriate piece(s) and then in bending them. Even with magnification it ain't easy.
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Yes, rules are different for Credit versus Debit - when in doubt always use Credit over Debit.
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Call your credit card company and tell them it's a fraudulent charge. Don't know what the UK laws are but here in the US you are either not liable at all or only get nicked for $50 USD. Either way most cards have fraud protection for the cardholder.
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Thanks, Kop, I do have a hold and fold and the appropriate blade. Got them a while back from The Small Shop in Oregon/Washington area.
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Question for everyone : the PE ship's doors have a single very very thin brass band linking the doot to the door frame. I have been cutting the two apart, glueing the frame on first, then glueing the door onto the frame. I tried to fold the door over onto the frame but with only one thin brass piece holding them together they don't align correctly. How do you guys handle the doors ? One folded piece or two separate pieces ?
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Thanks, OC, I think I have some of that glue. Wiil try it.
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Is that available in US ? I've never seen it before . Only ones I seem to find are Elmers brand.
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I've done both ! If I apply to part, it immediately seizes when it contacts the plastic and won't let me adjust it, even with medium/slow/15 sec CA. Thin CA is too fast setting. There is an even slower setting CA but it may be too thick to use - never used it before so I would have to buy some. I'm still experimenting.
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Thanks everyone for the Likes, Comments and suggestions. I'm not having a problem picking up and placing the pieces. I have a very good quality set of jeweler tweezers that work well. The problem is keeping the part in place while I apply the glue to it; as soon as the CA touches it the part moves. I'm going to trying the PVA glue that OC uses and a variation on Carl's tweezers to hold the part in place while I apply the glue.
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Did any of them settle in Nieuw Dorp, Chris ? (aka Hurley NY )
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Actually, I find taking off my distance glasses makes it easier to see, no magnifier needed [YET]. I do have sunlight/daylight LED bulbs in both work lamps, 100 watt @COG , @RGL , do you guys have any tricks you use to keep the PE in place while you apply the glue? It's applying the glue that causes the part to move.
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Some progress photos: looks like a few doors need to be reattached. Keeping them aligned is a bear. I am using a sewing needle with the eye cut off then inserted into a paint brush handle to place the glue but still tricky because the parts move. I'm using Medium CA (15 sec set time). Wondering if the Testors brand tube cement for plastic would work and still hold the brass. Might give me more time to re-position the doors better. The thin CA sets too fast and doesn't allow time to position the piece. I'm scraping the molded on detail off the molded doors but leaving the molded door a little proud so I can position the frame, rather than scrape it flush to sidewall. I will paint the open door openings flat black after I've painted the structure gray.
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It is a metal hook used to attach wool or cloth while it dries, usually attached to a wooden frame or fence. I would guess that the Brits expression is similar in meaning to our Yanks expression "on pins and needles."
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Label on bottle reads "Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue" "for Dark Woods" - no product number that I can find but the UPC code on back is 26000 00710 Says it is good for walnut, oak, cherry and other dark woods. Mine is a 4 oz bottle. In the bottle, the glue is about the same color as chocolate milk.
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Elmers makes a dark brown wood glue, PVA, for use with dark woods like walnut. I used it to glue the deck planks down, it pushes out a liitle between the planks and looks like dark caulk when dried. Lightly sanding the planks removes any residue as does a damp sponge.
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Chris, Card ! Wow! Even more impressive!
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