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Everything posted by Jack12477
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After spending an entire weekend browsing thru several online Hobby shop catalogs, I finally located a source for the paint colors I need. I've decided to build it as the 1945 configuration as shown in the kit rather than try and research all the changes needed to duplicate the ship as she sits today in the Naval Museum in Buffalo NY. The LifeColor brand had two 6 jar kits with the exact colors called for to do the 1943/1945 paint scheme. I ordered the CS24 and CS25 kits, took an extra couple of days to arrive due to the unusual early November snow storm (8 inches) we got right after I placed the order. So with the right colors in hand, I hand brushed the hull and deck in the 1943/1945 color scheme. Even tho the photos were taken outdoors in sunlight I had a difficult time getting the digital camera to get the colors to my satisfaction (experimented with several white balance settings). Sorry for the poor background in the last two photos, I had to get the model in direct noon-time sunlight to get the color I wanted. The deck is just dry fit, the rest is glued. Oh and I did touch up the bare spots where the paint peeled off.
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And the mailman brings 2 dozen catalogs per day (about 20 lbs weight) 99 percent of which never get read and wind up being being tossed in the recycle bin. Yea, OC, we Yanks are a tad crazy. oh and Mark did not mention the house decorations aka lights
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How Do I Start A Build Log?
Jack12477 replied to Tom in NC's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
Don't feel bad Tom, you are 2 years younger than me. Glad I could help . -
How Do I Start A Build Log?
Jack12477 replied to Tom in NC's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
Same way you started this forum. Go to the appropriate forum - KITS or SCRATCH - on the main page, click on the forum title, In the next screen, click the Green "Start a New Topic" button in upper right and go. -
Never was any good at "circumlocution" !
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I stand corrected ! USS England is NOT at Battleship Cove. Don't know why I thought that, maybe too much of O.C.'s rum! Thanks, Lou, for the PM.
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Hi O.C. welcome aboard. Yes, we may need lots of rum for this voyage.
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That was easy! They cast it in glossy red plastic, which just had to be repainted. At least the rest is cast in dull grey.
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The real USS England is at Battleship Cove in Fall River, MA, couple hours drive from me. Maybe a road trip.! Right now I'm trying to figure out the kit instructions, which only have pictures, no prose, just a bunch of part numbers and no explanation of what the part is. Some I can figure out but not being a Navy vet (Army vet) my knowldge of ships is somewhat limited. Right now I'm trying to figure out what PE part replaces what plastic part. But I will muddle thru.
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Probably going to do her as she appears today in Buffalo, Lou, since I have some photos and can easily get more. There's a WWII Destroyer Escort (last one still floating) berthed in Albany NY, about 50 miles from me, the USS Slater, which if I can find a suitable kit, I would like to model. She was repainted a couple years back in the razzle dazzle camo. What is slowing me down right is figuring out how to do the PE mods, so I am going a lot slower than I normally would with the plastic. Wood is easy to re-do, plastic not so good.
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Pictures just for Carl ! The wood block in the center of the hull is to attach the two 1/16 inch diameter brass tubing that will support the model in the display when completed. The 3 sections of the hull/deck combo are just dry fit together for now. Some touch up is needed on the black boot. The grayish cast on the red hull bottom is the lighting for some reason, not weathering.
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Well after opening up the sealed plastic bags and examining the parts sprues most closing, it appeared I did not have any or enough anyway doors and deck hatches, so I placed an order for another sheet of Tom's MetalWorks PE; those arrived Friday (almost overnight delivery). Then I spent the weekend looking thru the online catalogs of 3 US based Hobby "stores" for paint in the colors used in WWII. Very tedious task. After hours of looking at every paint brand I could find I finally located a set from LifeColor that exact matched the colors I was seeking, comes in 2 sets of 6 colors each. Ordered them, but it will take until 11/20 (next week sometime) to ship them to me from Atlanta, Georgia. Not like the next day delivery of the PE from NJ. In the meantime, I have been painting the lower hull with Vallejo hull red (4-5 coats) and upper hull with some old Poly S (water base) Light and Dark Ghost Grey (several coats). Haven't rolled out the airbrush yet, so far just hand brushing with pretty good results.
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Kop and I cross posted. His lights are rated at 5500K aka 5500 degrees Kelvin, in other words daylight. I forgot to mention "tungsten" light is 3200-3400 Kelvin
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I use a looooong rollup window shade in a setup like Kop is using; for lighting I use a goose neck type lamp with a 100 watt daylight rated LED. For reflectors you can use a large piece of cardboard covered in standard kitchen aluminum foil (don't make it too smooth a little crinkled is good) In my case the window shade is attached to brackets attached to the floor joists in my cellar . Kop is using background paper instead of a window shade, either will work. Use a white or very light grey shade. Yes, those umbrellas are reflector/diffusers. The tissue over the flash cuts the intensity. With Kop's setup you can control intensity by just moving the lights or using a lower watt bulb. Two lights eliminate shadows. The reason for daylight LED is so you don't have to adjust the white balance on your camera/phone which defaults to daylight. Indoor lighting, called tungsten, is rated at 3200 degrees Kelvin, daylight is 5600-5800 degrees Kelvin. If you use ordinary indoor lightbulbs (tungsten) without adjusting the white balance the photos taake on a yellow or amber cast. Just look in the lighting section of Lowes or Home Depot for the LED bulbs, check the rating on the package. They are the standard "incandesent" replacement bulb .
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Kop has the right setup, the Amazon is good for a really serious Amateur photographer. Keep it simple and inexpensive. Only thing I would add is make sure the LED light bulbs are labeled DAYLIGHT and not Cool White, affects the color rendition. BTW I am a amateur photog with experience.
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Christmas tool gifts???
Jack12477 replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I found the Veritas miniature planes from Lee Valley a worthwhile investment. I use them frequently to thin planks and smooth off the hull. I have their entire miniature collection bought in ones and twos over time. Also Chuck's SYREN Seizing tool is a good investment. Also WeCheer makes a small corded and battery powered miniature drill which takes all Dremel 1/8 inch shank accessories. It's offered by WoodCraft. Excellent alternative to the larger Dremel tool -
If you're going that route, Carl, I'd prefer a Redbreast 21 year old single malt pot still! Or a Redbreast 15 year old !
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Better get yourself into a bos'un chair, Carl, it's going to be a while before the PE shows up. Wouldn't want you to lose your finger nails.
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Not only is your model impressive but so is the close-up photography. Great work on both !
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