Jack12477

On the contrary, it was by far a scam or sold by a con artist, I just placed it roadside with best offer and in they came on their own with offers, I’m sure if I had held off a little longer or posted it online for sale in the garage sale, the kids could have fetched a greater number but their happy with what they got as am I whom got a case of beer out of it! 😉right back at you’s. 

Brooklyn or Rainbow ?????

I really need to get one of my scratch builds going again,  so I will visit the scratch build forum more often     good to see you've brought the Cutter back to the table Michael........such a wonderful project {and eye catching vessel}.  looking forward in seeing more progress on her  

Please send the buyer my way. I have this rather large bridge for sale, you see....

It’s going to be a pain to do but now I’ve mentioned it I have to do it. Not much will get done this week due to work. 

Copycat, using the same excuse as me for little to no work done on the model!
 
At least we're in for a treat ...

Thank you very much Chuck. That clears things up quite a bit for me. On my Halifax I have been spileing, fitting, soaking and clamping the wet plank to the hull until it's dry. Then I do a bit more fitting then glue with titebond and clamp again. The formed planks still have a bit of spring to them but clamp easily with very little additional bending. This is my first time really spileing planks so I'm still trying to learn as much as I can. Your willingness to share your knowledge is very much appreciated. 

I dont clamp my planks.  Clamps arent needed ever....it just complicates things and makes it more difficult. At least for me.
 
If you shape your planks properly and pre bend them they should not need any clamps.  I take my time tweaking, bending and twisting ahead of time.  I will test each and every plank over and over again before I ever glue it into position.  Its not something that happens immediately after spiling a plank.  Even after having a laser cut plank already shaped, it is close to fitting well..... but  never perfect.  There may be gaps and high spots because of how I placed the previous plank on the hull.  Its an inexact process.  There may be slight gaps between it and the previous strake.  So I use sandpaper and sanding sticks to bevel a bit more.....or very lightly remove a high spot that might prevent an area next to it from fitting tightly.  I will remove just a hair and then retest.   I will do this until the plank fits snug against the previous strake all along its length.   I may also re bend or re-twist using heat.  Then test some more.  I could easily spend 45 minutes to an hour on one plank if its giving issues.  I may over bevel or over twist and end up screwing it up.  So I toss it and make another.
 
For all of my builds I use Titebond exclusively....except for planking.  All of my planking is held to the frames with CA.  I add a drop or two of CA with a toothpick to just two or three frames being careful to be very neat.  Then I glue the plank to those few frames.  Then I flex the plank so I can add some more CA to the next two frames...lifting it slightly to reach under it with my toothpick glue applicator....position and press the plank against those frames.  I will slowly work my way down the length of the plank a few frames at a time making sure it tightly fits against the previous strake.  I just hold it with my fingers for a few seconds and press it flat against the frames.  The glue will hold and no forcing is needed, because the shape was good and the twist and bend was good before I started gluing.
 
Hope that makes sense.  At times when I have to sand a high spot off the edge of a plank so it fits tightly against the plank already on the hull,  I will have to make a mental note to adjust the next strake so I can stay faithful to my tick marks and planking plan that I made while lining out.  This is what prevents the run of the planking from getting too waavy or out of wack.   Without those tick marks as a guide I would be lost, with or without pre spiled and laser cut planks.
 
I hope this rather lengthy description makes sense.  But this is basically my process.  No magic just slow and methodical,  No special clamping procedure other than my fingers.  test ....shape .....then retest....and finally glue.  Its hard to describe in writing.
 
One thing I will mention however.  I have been watching a lot of people plank hulls over the years.  In most cases the planks they are using are way too thick.  The thicker the plank the harder it is to glue it into position.  I rarely use planking thicker than 3/64" thick.  If I need a thicker plank like in this case....I would rather use two layers than try to bend and twist a 1/16" thick strip or a 5/64" thick strip.  That is just nuts.  I have watched some people try and bend really thick planks for the wales...why in the world does this make sense when after using several layers nobody can ever tell the difference.  Like on those Hahn models you are building.  I am amazed at the thickness of the wales and you guys try to force one big thick chunk of wood into position with or without pre-bending and twisting.  Its something I will never understand.

Today was a lazy, hot summer day.  I am pretty caught up making rope and blocks so I decided to spend the day finishing the external planking.
 
The last two strakes along the sheer were completed.  As mentioned earlier, these are thicker planks than those below them.  The second strake being the wales.  I contemplated doing these two last strakes several ways.  One I thought about was to just use thicker planks.  This is a good solution but I kept thinking about some of the guys I know who have trouble bending and twisting heavier planks.  The hull is pretty sturdy at this point but being forceful with a heavy plank could be problematic for some, especially if they dont take the time to properly pre-bend and twist it to shape.
 
So in the end I opted for a modelers convention of simplification.  Just as I add the wales on my other builds, I decided to use two layers.  The 1/32" thick planks bend and twist very easily.  This is especially true with the yellow cedar.  A second layer of 1/32" planking will be laid right on top of the last two strakes and nobody will be the wiser.
 
Here is the hull with the first layer of planking completed. I was quite happy with the results.  Once both sides were done I could see that the port side was less than 1/64" lower at mid ship than the starboard.  Nothing that cant be adjusted with the second layer.  This is one of the benefits of using a second layer.  You can make small adjustments to correct any issues with the ring of your planking at the shear.

The second layer is also 1/32" thick.  But this is actually slightly thicker than I would like.  It is better to sand them down slightly afterwards so they are a bit thinner and not standing so proud of the planks below it.
 
On addition note.  At the bow and stern, the planks are actually not thicker.  They should gradually reduce in thickness so they are the flush with the planking below them.  This is easy enough to do after both strakes are completed.  At the stern, I just sanded the last 1/2" of planking so it gradually reduced in thickness and matched the other strakes when viewing the transom head on.  You can see this feature on the contemporary model attached.  You can also see where I shifted one layer to correct the run.  This wont be seen under the painted frieze.
 

The same thing was done at the bow, but I find it easier to use a sharp chisel to slice away the thicker plans along the stem to reduce their thickness.  Then I feather that back with some sandpaper so its gradual as it should be.  This is all very similar to clinker planking on the barge but we are cheating perhaps and using two layers to simulate the same look.
 

Heres the contemporary model...which is simalar because it was carved and hollowed out from a solid piece of boxwood.  The wales and sheer strake were then added as a layer on top of the solid carved hull.  Can you imagine basically hollowing out a block until it was thin as an eggshell!!!
 

 
And one last photo of my hull.  All the exterior planking is now complete.  I could leave it on the baseboard.....so I could nail the planks (not treenail because they were actual nails).   BUT I think it will be easier to do after the cap rail is in position.  I also find it hard to see the frames down by the keel now and I dont know where to place my nails.  Removing the frame centers and the hull from the baseboard will allow me to hold it up to the light and see the frames clearly.  The planks are so thin it is quite easy to do.  I will hopefully mark the locations of the frames this way so I dont miss when I drill the holes for the little nails.  Hope that makes sense.  So tomorrow I will remove it from the baseboard and break-out the frame centers.   I have already removed the braces at the bow and the stern that helped hold them stationary.  They weren't glued into the slots, so I just popped them out.  Even the two center ones at the stern.  It will make removing the baseboard easier.
 
 
 
 

CDW - Could be? But on my cameras, it's on the SET FUNCTION button (or FUNC SET).  On yours trying selecting it and see if you get a screen with various LIGHTING settings - you are probably on AWB (Automatic White Balance) which sometimes doesn't work well when you switch between indoor and outdoor especially when you take the camera off of AUTO mode and select one of the other modes, e.g. AV (Aperature Preferred/Priority), TV (Shutter Preferred) or P (Programmed), etc. On mine when I take it off of AUTO, I manually select the Lighting mode (WB).  I'm using a Canon PowerShot SX130.
 

not much of an update, the frames are taking me forever, plus i have not been 100%

Hope your ok kevin  sorry to hear you have not been too good.
 
OC.

Hope you're not feeling to bad, this weather can be hell for the youngsters ... take care of yourself!

Yes mate  - on the wheel marked WB you should be able to set it to WB  then another menu should show or you select,  in that there should be a menu of Auto, Tungsten, Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, Fluorescent,    Auto is normaly ok for most things except strong internal lighting from strip lights.
 
Hope this helps.
 
OC.

CDW - Could be? But on my cameras, it's on the SET FUNCTION button (or FUNC SET).  On yours trying selecting it and see if you get a screen with various LIGHTING settings - you are probably on AWB (Automatic White Balance) which sometimes doesn't work well when you switch between indoor and outdoor especially when you take the camera off of AUTO mode and select one of the other modes, e.g. AV (Aperature Preferred/Priority), TV (Shutter Preferred) or P (Programmed), etc. On mine when I take it off of AUTO, I manually select the Lighting mode (WB).  I'm using a Canon PowerShot SX130.
 

It is the white balance WB setting, change from indoor (tungsten) to Daylight,   in Daylight the tungsten setting creates a blueish cast to the light;  in contrast the Daylight setting will cause a yellowish or orangeish cast when used indoors.

Hi all,   today I started work on the funnel cap and internal fittings, I decided to follow the design of of the shipwrights model above,  this shows a closed off ledge just under the cap, this contains a few box like and round internal funnels,   I firstly worked on the kit cap - I decided to have a go at thinning down the profiles in the cap, I used my scalpel and fine file and worked on the sections.
Next I created a floor to go inside and on this I fitted a few box like structures and a couple of thin round funnels,  these were painted flat black then when dry I glued the floor underneath the cap, then gave it a couple of coats of flat black.
 
Then I glued it to the funnel body and that was glued down on to the boat deck.
 
Here are a couple of pics.
 
OC.

It is the white balance WB setting, change from indoor (tungsten) to Daylight,   in Daylight the tungsten setting creates a blueish cast to the light;  in contrast the Daylight setting will cause a yellowish or orangeish cast when used indoors.

thanks Chris

"Suckers" in this instance is a mild pejorative that can be applied to a wide range of things/situations.

what are "suckers" in this context? 

More railings Port side. Pretty boring update really!
 




 
These suckers are tedious to say the least!
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

So some minor progress, beginning the balustrades and railings Port side
 
 


pics aren't too flash but steps into rear entry upper accommodation deck
 


view down Port side
 

 
Thank goodness for high def digi cams! I didn't realise that one of the brass balls was on its side until I took this pic. Lucky it was an easy fix that has now been rectified. Its the second one from the right. Pretty hard (for me at least) to see with the naked eye.
 

 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

It is the white balance WB setting, change from indoor (tungsten) to Daylight,   in Daylight the tungsten setting creates a blueish cast to the light;  in contrast the Daylight setting will cause a yellowish or orangeish cast when used indoors.

It is the white balance WB setting, change from indoor (tungsten) to Daylight,   in Daylight the tungsten setting creates a blueish cast to the light;  in contrast the Daylight setting will cause a yellowish or orangeish cast when used indoors.