Jack12477

Jay,
 
Here is a photo of the stove as it looked in the 1906 refit.  If you blow up the picture you can see that what looks like a stanchion at the left rear corner of the stove is actually a pipe.  And there are three fill valves above the kettles built into the rear of the stove.
 
Perhaps this is the terminus for the discharge of our fresh water pump on the berth deck?
 

 
Regards,

You know that little 'fill room' down there would be a perfect hideout for a ghost or two. 
Maybe you can start a rumor:
'The Constitution Ghost continues to dwell among the gun powder kegs waiting for the right time'.  

Your rope-coils turned out great Ken, and very clever, making them for right and left as well as adjustable for size. 

Finally finished all the carronade tackle lines and then tried wrapping the tackle in place on the deck with mixed results due to some lines being too short. Next time I will make sure that I have longer lines. I then dropped back to past experiences and wrapped the coiled ropes on a plastic polyethylene food container lid. I then found it very easy to do both left and right coils on the lid with the lines taped to the edge. Once completely set they are very easily removed. They can also be unwrapped to adjust the size.
Here is a picture showing them setting on the lid and I can pick and choose the ones I am not satisfied with to replace on the deck.

Here is a close-up  of one.

Here is a couple on the deck.

 
I am moving on to the bowsprit and start rigging it and then the anchors. I think it might be wise to get all the deck related items completed before rigging the masts.
I started the bowsprit by adding the gammon rope. At first they kept slipping forward as I tightened the rope so I added a stop block and completed the rope wrap and glued just the bottom side. Once the glue set I removed the stop block.

Now to add the yard and rigging which should keep me busy for a while.
 

Really nice work.  You are doing an outstanding job.

If you look at contemporary long boat models, all the windlasses seem to have a curious conical taper at each end.

   I found this too intriguing to pass up, and decided to try duplicating the shape on my lathe. An easy way to chuck up an eight-sided piece in a three jaw chuck is to use a brass sleeve that has a slit cut in it.  This allows the sleeve to compress as the chuck is tightened.  The only drawback to this is whether or not you have brass tubing suitable for the piece you are working on.  The fact that I planned to use this sleeve is also the reason I made the windlass plug as long as it is.


First of all, I needed to center drill the windlass at one end so it could take the tailstock.


The sleeve was then moved to the other end of the piece, and mounted in the lathe.

The only problem I encountered with this procedure, is that I had to be careful not to damage the sharp edges of the four flat surfaces at each end while creating the tapers.

If you go back to the first photo in this particular post, the mortises in the contemporary windlass are offset on adjacent surfaces.  For what it's worth, I found that duplicating that on my windlass made any misalignment problems less obvious.

 
Here are some photos of the windlass and thwarts in position.  However, they still aren't glued in place.  I'd like to get some other procedures done on the model before I commit to that.
BobF
 

Your bowsprit looks like it will hold pretty good Robb. Instead of CA though, I'd use an epoxy because it'll make for a much stronger bond. Anchors - hmmm - you can check here to see if they have the one you like at the right size: http://www.bluejacketinc.com/fittings/fittings12.htm
 
Cheers

Solid start.  And yes, get those 2 garboards lined up together or you'll wind up with different plank counts P/S.  Don't ask how I know this.

Build Log 3 – laying up the hull
 
With the lifts set and adjusted in the computer I took a disc with the files to the blueprint shop and had them print out two sets – one to use and the other as backup for the inevitable mistakes.  They were done on the least expensive paper in the shop, so getting two sets was easily affordable.  A word of caution for those who use this sort of service -  although their printouts are quite accurate, their usual customer does not build directly from the plans, but from the listed dimensions.  Since I would be cutting directly from the drawings, I had them check.  The first page was about 2% off.  This is not much in a printed document, but in a 43 inch model this is about an inch.  They corrected the problem and the rest were spot on.
 
I had already determined that the maximum breadth of the model would be just over 5 ½ inches (90.25 feet at 1/192 = 5.64 inches), so I ordered a number of planks of seasoned and dried basswood  ½” x 6” x 48” from National Balsa, a reliable supplier in Massachusetts that I have used before.  I also ordered a number of ½” planks only 3 inches wide, together with 3/32” sheets for the decks.  These were all left in the shop for a week to acclimatize.
 
The 3” planks were something of an experiment.  On previous liner models I had created hollows in the lifts to lighten the model and give the wood some space to move rather than cracking the exterior of the hull.  But I was not happy with the process.  I would cut out the center of the middle lifts on my tabletop band saw, but its small throat meant that I was frequently turning and backing the blade.  Also, there was always a small kerf in one side of each lift that had to be filled and sanded and which created a weak spot.  This time I tried using two half width lifts that would make up one already split along the centerline.   I would have access to the center of the lift without going through the outside.
 

 
Here you can see the process.  Each lift plan was cut from the sheet and sprayed with Scotch spray mount, which allows some repositioning during adhesion, and removes cleanly with mineral spirits.  For the solid lifts a centerline was drawn on the wood and the plan pasted down along it.  For the split lifts the two 3” planks were held together with clamps while the plan was laid down along the line where they abutted each other.  While still clamped the plan was split along the line with a sharp hobby knife.
 
For each lift the material to be removed was drawn on the plan and then cut out on the band saw.  A central bar was left solid for rigidity and to make sure the hull did not shift.  That may have been unnecessary, but I felt more comfortable with it there.  In the photo you can see that Lift 5, at the bottom, has been split and the voids cut out of the port side.  
 
I started with two full width lifts to make a solid base for the hull.  A pair of T-nuts were fitted into the lowest lift in holes drilled through from the outside in to minimize any chipping around the visible hole.  A matching pair of holes was drilled in the second lift so the mounting bolts could come through into the hull and be as long as needed.  This second lift trapped the nuts so they could not shift.  Each lift was painted with glue and positioned on the one below.  When the glue set up enough to prevent movement the top lift was clamped down with three cauls and left to dry.
 

 
You can see that I have used black glue.  It is simply made by adding a few drops of acrylic craft paint to wood glue.  Doing this gave me a set of true horizontal layout lines that would never disappear no matter how much material had to be removed in the shaping process.  These lines could be viewed from any angle to get the curves accurate and symmetrical.  Also, in the past I have had some trouble laying out and keeping a level waterline and I thought I could rely on the lift junctions as a guide.    
 
Here are the first four lifts cut out and glued up.  The angled sides of the center bar were necessary to accommodate the shallow throat of the band saw, but these would be hidden deep inside the hull.
 

 
Here is the bow with the extra material added to the bottom two lifts.
 

 
And the stern with the third lift split into the two half layers to match the plans.
 

 
After the sixth flat lift had been glued up I had to make the first of the wedge shaped lifts, the half height one (7A) at the stern.  It was cut to the shape of the aft end of the Foyer deck and the length as taken from the lift plan.  Then I tapered it down and forward with a block plane until the front edge was feathered to next to nothing.  It was glued down and would later be sanded to a gentle curve to match the sheer.
 

 
With 7A installed I could add the forward section of lift 7.  Here is the hull painted with glue and ready for it.  This lift was made solid since it would be the last (almost) full lift below the color separation line.
 

 
The final lift for the lower hull was the wedge lift at the bow.  This was roughed out and installed and the rough hull block was complete.
 

 
Now it was just a process of shaping the exterior to match the plans.  The boxy midships areas could be brought down with a palm sander.  To reduce the dust generated I attached one of the small hose ends of the shop vac to the dust port on the sander.  Whenever I sanded I had the vacuum sucking up as much dust as possible.  There was still some, so I wore a dust mask.  Ear protectors too.  Running both machines at once was quite loud.
 

 
Using the sander, a sanding drum in the Dremel, wood rasps, and whatever else would remove wood, the hull was brought down to a rough but close approximation of the hull shape.  In this view from below the two mounting holes can be clearly seen.
 

 
At the stern the rudder post and counter are approaching their final shapes.  The working area of the Foyer deck has been sanded to the gentle curve of the sheer.
 

 
At the bow the split line of the half lifts gave me an indelible line to shape the knife edge at the waterline and the bulb below.
 

 
So here is where this segment ends, with the lower hull laid up and approaching its final shape.
 

 
Be well
 
Dan
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I think I am one of many that can vouch for the quality of Chucks products.
So much better than what is provided in the kit.
It's time to make another order from Chuck.

I would like to think so...by leaps and bounds.  But you should get an impartial opinion from the many customers who use my blocks and rope.  

Gets exciting when you see the deck start to fill up doesn't it? It's looking very  good!. It does look much better spaced with the wedge. That is a mistake I made with my build. I intended to do that too. I had tied it up & glued it before I realized I had left it out. I didn't like it but I didn't want to tear it back up so I left it like it was. Another option if you still don't want to cut a hole in the deck you can carefully insert a wire pin or two or a small wood peg into the flat part that lays on the deck- being careful not to drill through to the top. Gluing it down with it pinned or pegged is better than just gluing the flat part down. Like others have said it could pull up when doing all the rigging.

HI Robb,
 
Looks awesome. Great to see all the deck details bringing her to life!
 
I hear you on drilling the hole for the bowsprit....drilling out my cannon ports gave me fits. In case it helps, another option to add to the suggestions by George and Matt, is to use a tapered sanding stick as Augie showed in his Confederacy build.   See link below to the page in Augie's log.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3371-usf-confederacy-by-augie-ms-164/page-82
 
Hope you enjoyed your time up at Lake George.
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

I'll put my two cents in to add to George's comment. Now that you've cut the base at the angle, you can use it to make a template of its footprint. Then mark on the deck the oval, or just hold it in place and trace around it. This way you can cut to the inside of the line before any drilling. That way you can avoid splintering or oversizing the hole.

Love it Robb, the deck is filling up beautifully! I had a drawing of the bowsprit with the rope lashings but can't find it now. Anyway, I think it looks better with the space. When you add the rope bands are you going to crimp them with rope? If you do you might not need the wedge.

The over-all pictures of her look great Robb. I don't know about just using CA on the bowsprit though. When you start rigging the fore stays, it might not hold up to the tension. Jesse's idea might be a better option. Just start with a small hole at first, using a sharp bit, and at high speed, to avoid splintering, working your way up to under the right size finishing with a file, and elongate the hole just a little at the front and rear with a round file, because of the angle it will be. It'll definitely offer way more support for your rigging. I'd hate to see things breaking on you when you start that. 
 
Cheers

Ok thanks all for comments. Jesse - I capitulated (after thinking I was going to put the piece between the masts) and attached to sides of jib boom. Looks pretty good now that I have it on. Also have a small wedge between to keep the poles parallel. I like the look better than having the pole touch - but what is more realistic? Ive seen on other models that they tie the ropes that wrap around the two poles to crimp the roping and keep the gap. I could also move the wedge up a little and it will be hidden by the rope once I get that done.
 
Also glued more of the decking on. Starting to look good! I'm excited to get the bowsprit completed and glued on. I've decided not to take Jesse's approach and drill into the deck for fear that I Will screw it up. So I've made a nice cut at the right angle and will glue with CA which should hold it ok.
 
George - thanks for the compliment and advice, I'm getting a little better at bending all that wire. Still a trial of patience however which is why I've been doing other things. Will try to tackle the remaining 5 deadeyes this week.
 
Matt - thanks for the example, very helpful. Interesting build too, really big.
 
Maria, thanks for reaching out - I'd take George's advice on the plans. PIctures wouldn't do justice, you need the full size plans for measuring, comparing, etc. I'm sure you can order if you reach out to AL. Also your husband should follow JesseLee's build (which is what I've referred to time and time again). His exquisite detail is much better than the instructions that come with the kit... and your husband can ask questions any time, I might be able to help.
 
Jesse - thanks as always!

I hand carved a 1/96 scale Cutty Sark out of a 6x6 piece of redwood.  I scaled up the hull from the smaller Revell model of the same.  I then planked the carving.
 
I made wood templates for the hull carving...similar to a shaped guage.  It worked well and the redwood carved very easily.
 
Rob

Thank you George for your nice comments and all the times you have spent followed my folly.
After I get back from the lake I will redo the orlop deck and continue like there were no mistakes made in the past.
After all, some of our history is best forgotten if the records are sour.

I agree Jay. With a ship like Constitution, where the records from the past are sketchy at best, and the only real Navy plans for the ship, even as it is, don't exist, the only thing you can rely on is best guess. Besides, anyone other than you, who will be viewing it when it's done, won't really notice the difference if anything is slightly off. You're the Captain here, so like Mark says, it's a good plan, and go for it.
 
Have a great time on your vacation

Actually we are renting a house there that will sleep 14 people (they say). Between the 12 of us it should be 'fun'
One of our son-in-laws has a large boat he is bringing and the other one is renting a 'party boat'. So we should have plenty to do if we can find water. If not, six grand kids will keep us 'entertained'.

Thank you Wayne (and every one else who contributed to this great adventure), but at this point I have to continue with my build.
I have learned a lot from all of you and will continue to take advise as you may think appropriate, but right now let me refresh:
 
1. Marquardt's book leaves a lot to be desired when it comes to accuracy. It has caused me many headaches and lots of time spent correcting.
2. The drawings and Henry's pictures have helped me clarify several things about the Orlop deck (and what may be below it). 
3. I am not trying to recreate the ship as it was built and don't care what it 'might have been like' without certainty. I like to see what she is now and perhaps a few years ago. The basic structure is there and a few changes in walls etc. will not change the whole ship.
4. My logic and instinct about the lower structure is good enough for me to draw up some plans and build that part as I see it now.
5. This is still my build log but if you wish to continue with details that are not part of what I am trying to do, I suggest to post those with a new thread.
6. I need a vacation and will be spending some time at Lake Shasta (CA) despite the low water levels and drought there.
 
Are any ship models made exactly like it is supposed to be (or was)?

Go for it, Jay.      Sounds like a good plan.  
 
Lake Shasta?  Yeah... it's pretty low from the reports I've heard.  We were there about 5 years ago and I wasn't sure how they were launching boats back then....  Are you doing the houseboat thing?

Hey Danny,
 
Welcome to the party! Glad to see you made it over.
 
Mark is tending the bar (as usual), and Sjors occasionally drops by with the popcorn, so make yourself comfortable.
 
A cross section of Vulture would be a great project for you. I'll look forward to following your log.

Dammit Grant, where have you been hiding? I just found this build log     . I've just had a quick look through the entire thing and I'm VERY impressed - Scratch Building is fun isn't it ?
 
You've got my juices running again. I wasn't going to do another Full Frame model, but after looking through this log I've decided on another project after the two I've already committed to - a Cross Section of Vulture's midsection. This would make a nice accompaniment to her in the Port Macquarie Maritime Museum .
 
 Danny