Jack12477

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 106 – Painting
 
I’ve always preferred to leave models in natural wood, but some of Young America will be painted.  After painting the hull planking above the planksheer, the stern decoration could be painted.  The first phase of that is shown in the first picture.
 

 
All the paints and the sealer being used so far are various types of artist’s acrylics.  The final coats will have some gloss.  Most of the gold stern decoration was painted first upside down – so I could see it and steady my hand.  The lines at the top were finished in the upright position as shown in the next picture.  Then several more inversions to nitpick.
 

 
This was a multi-multi step process – before everything looked reasonably presentable as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The planking below the painted part will also be black – down to the top of the brass sheathing.  I will paint that after completing treenailing.  In the next picture the white main main rail around the stern is being fitted.  Also one of the brass portholes is being test fit.
 

 
In the next picture the stern section of the main rail is being glued in.
 

 
The planking on this side is complete – just enough to anchor the deadeye chains below the lower rail.  The next picture shows the completed planking on the starboard side.
 

 
The planking on this side will be sheathed in “yellow metal” below the waterline.  The unpainted area at the bow is left unpainted to allow gluing of the decoration carvings.  The last picture shows the main deck during painting of the inboard bulwarks - the blue is masking tape to keep paint out of the structural work.
 

 
The sanding and painting of this complex woodwork is real fun – several coats worth.  The paint  accentuates every rough area and crack.  I am not too concerned about the area forward of the large vertical samson post.  It will be covered with the forecastle.  Also, the rack rails – pin rails – that run the full length of the deck will fit up under the upper rail - hiding some of the inboard planking.  The waterway – painted blue – will fit in under the lower rail.  There will be a white cap rail all along the top.
  
Ed

Well...Picking up where we left off I'm done!
 
I think as of last post I just had to finish the sheets on the main, and do the mizzen and the spanker. All done now. Also did the little row boat (it's a pretty lowsey cast) and I painted up the little crew.
 
Overall this was a great ship and I had a blast! I'm glad I took my time on it. I basically did the hull up to he masts then took about 3 months off on it then did all the masts, took another month off then did all the rigging. I've found it's important to take breaks!
 
This is a great model and a great kit. Instructions are as is typical kind of lowsey as well, but with some knowledge, a little research and some help on the forums it's not too bad at all.

For a little size comparison here she is next to my San Francisco.
 
It's been a running joke since the beginning of this build with my wife that when the box for the Constellation showed up at our doorstep it was a bit larger than I had negotiated with the Mrs.
 
I got myself the start of a little fleet here...

Finally getting around to the flags, attaching the White Ensign, Union Jack and Vice Admiral's flag.
The White Ensign on the driver yard flag halyard.
 

 
Nelson's Vice Admiral flag at the foremast peak. The flag is flown on a "Pig Stick" so that the flag is not fouled by the stay or back stay. A pig stick was and is a common way to fly a flag above the mast head.
I'll replace the flag.  This one degraded by paint bleed
 

 
For those unfamiliar with the term pig stick, a simple sketch should clarify it's use.
 

 
The Union Jack at the jack staff (anchored or moored;  at the main mast when underway)
 

 
Name plate.
 

 
Now to attaching supports and a base plate.  Drilling through the keel and internal reinforcements placed at the beginning of the build. With any luck, I won't drop the ship in the process.
Cheers, Gil
 
 

Doing a little at a time. Rigging sheet & clew lines. Added the stay & flying jib sails.
 
 

Sign ready to hang....

 
check out the ship figure.
This was a fun little break ...
 

 
Back to the Mayflower....

Hi Carl, I agree with your thoughts, I think that if I keep things consistent and have a good general flow then I should be OK.
I can push a fair bit of water through the .093 holes with a good pump and since I am not going to be running this engine for long stretches I am confident that I will be able to get enough cooling.
 
Thanks Druxey, I do have the small set of coils spring pipe bender that I purchased some time ago but they only work for gentle curves, I have done some more experiments with the styrene rod as a filler as suggested By Bob. The combination of the heavy walled brass tube benders that are bored to the pipe size plus filling the tubes with the styrene have greatly improved the quality of tight elbows. The styrene gets trapped and a quick play of the propane torch over the elbow pops most of the styrene out then after removing the blobs at each end of the bent tube a little more heat and the residue flames off, leaving a good bend and flow through.
 
Thank you Mike, Mark, Steve , and Nils for your very complimentary comments. A sincere thanks to all who have shown their appreciation by pressing the like button.
 
I am continuing with the experiments with the various shapes and components for the piping and valves. I am gathering a fair collection of bits for the spare bits box. The parts to the extreme bottom left hand corner are the present iteration, that i am working with. the hex sections have been filed instead of adding in some sections of hex stock this eliminated the need for threads etc and is quick enough to do with a few strokes of the fine file.
 

 
I filled the four mounting holes with some 00x90 threaded rod and soft soldered them in place because they won't work with the new configuration that is not quite there yet but is getting close.
 

 
I have been sorting out the stack of elements and seeing how to create the look of a number of parts screwed together but really being a solid fancy tube. here there ore the vertical part of the pump the valve to bleed off any air then the anti hammer bulb. it is bored out to accept some 1/8th inch copper pipe for the bottom elbow, and a .093 hole for the tee off to the upper union that connects the piping to the water jacket as in the one on the real engine. I am using the 1/4 inch brass rod that I purchased at home depot, this rod is nice to machine and not very expensive. By using the collet chuck instead of the three jaw I can shift the brass out as I complete each element. the collet has 6 slotted sections as part of its design which makes it easy to line up to file the hex sections.
 

 
I silver soldered the tee to the bulb section, not as good as some soldering I have seen but acceptable, in this instance.
 

 
Michael
 
 
 

Wow! those files are pricey Druxey.
 
the saga of the water-pump continues.
I am not happy with the sizes of things and also the elbow is causing the crankcase to be raised off the sump.
 

 
Mass confusion and general mayhem
 

 
A number of different experiments with heavy walled tube convinced me that it is easier to bend the heavy tube than to work at drilling 90 degree holes through elbows any other way.
 
That said I have come to the conclusion that all model locomotive engineers already know and i also knew it as well and that is one cannot scale nature, a molecule of water is a molecule of water and that is the fact of life. it also became a realization that I would not be able to get enough water through the water-jacket with a scale model pump for the same reason that nature is not scale-able.
 
I was able to make the pump open and close with a .093 ball bearing similar to a clack valve but being realistic demonstrated to me that this approach would not work to deliver the volume of water needed to cool the head(heat cannot be scaled either. (Nigel you already knew this too)
 
As there are two other places wher piping enters the water jacket I have decided to continue to make a scale operating water pump from the outside appearances but the actual path of the water will be through the other piping and will use a hidden pump that will be able to deliver the needed volumes. Disappointing in one sense, but that is the way the world works sometimes.
 
experiments
 

 
Now that I am on a new track I will be able to make the pump look correct, I have already done this with regard to the operation of the pistons and cylinders insider the engine and working to keep the exterior looking like hwe real engine.
 
I have developed a couple of new tools for bending the parts of the piping.
 

 
The elbow is first turned to include some flanged areas at each end, then annealed and slipped into the brass bending tools
 

 
I marked the center of the elbow with a felt pen and closed the two parts.
 

 
did the bend
 

 
after a few tries I am pleased that this method will work
 
 
 
michael
 
 
 

So I guess she can now navigate....
 

 
Nice day outside for a few pics....
 

Great idea Matt, the Admiral has a salad bowl made out of the same stuff, maybe I could cut .......... On second thoughts maybe not

About time for an update.
 
After playing around with different configurations (wire, wood, rope), I finally decided on using the photoetched stanchions and some line for the companionway railings.  I'll use this throughout:
 

 
The photo also shows a glimpse of the second of the aft bulkheads and the permanently installed capstan and pawls.
 
The next 8 deck beams for the quarterdeck were also installed, including lodging and hanging knees:
 

 

 
Finally, just an overall shot:
 

 
There are several more decks beams to go in to finish the quarterdeck but first we need to prepare some deck fittings.
 
 

Stuntflyer, thanks for the link. At $179.99 I could have bought two, maybe three, of those packages. In January 2009 I paid less than $65 for both the Dremel 300 rotary tool AND workbench as one package. Even with inflation that's one hellavu price increase.
 
 
UPDATE: I just did an online search and a found a full size Black & Decker Workmate 225 for $74.99. Dremel's table-top workbench vise is modeled after B&D full size workmate.

CLEAR PLASTIC PIPE HOLDER
 
Uses: many / scale: any. Can be found on eBay for $.99 with free shipping.
 
I've been keeping my eye out for something to make my compass lens with. So I was getting a pipe cleaner to clean my pipe, and POW, there's my lens. I hastily went for my dremel and 30 min later I had my lens. I used a thicker piece(1/8) and after shaping, buffed out the edges to clear up most of the fog.
 
Matt
 

Ditto on the well-wishes, Jesse.  Sail look great. Nice job.

Stuntflyer, thanks for the link. At $179.99 I could have bought two, maybe three, of those packages. In January 2009 I paid less than $65 for both the Dremel 300 rotary tool AND workbench as one package. Even with inflation that's one hellavu price increase.
 
 
UPDATE: I just did an online search and a found a full size Black & Decker Workmate 225 for $74.99. Dremel's table-top workbench vise is modeled after B&D full size workmate.

I got the Dremel table (only) for $5 at a garage sale about 15 years ago!

yeah, I was wondering about the price too. Seems a bit high.

Stuntflyer, thanks for the link. At $179.99 I could have bought two, maybe three, of those packages. In January 2009 I paid less than $65 for both the Dremel 300 rotary tool AND workbench as one package. Even with inflation that's one hellavu price increase.
 
 
UPDATE: I just did an online search and a found a full size Black & Decker Workmate 225 for $74.99. Dremel's table-top workbench vise is modeled after B&D full size workmate.

I have that same Dremel workbench and love it. It came as a "package" deal some time ago (Loews carried it), you bought the Dremel rotary tool and got the workbench as a bonus. Have not seen them anywhere since, not even on Dremel's website. Too bad they don't still offer it because it is a great workbench.
 
P.S. - Augie great job on the model. Looking really nice.

I have that same Dremel workbench and love it. It came as a "package" deal some time ago (Loews carried it), you bought the Dremel rotary tool and got the workbench as a bonus. Have not seen them anywhere since, not even on Dremel's website. Too bad they don't still offer it because it is a great workbench.
 
P.S. - Augie great job on the model. Looking really nice.

I have to remind myself, this is a Mayflower build log.... sorry, if I got a little distracted with the stupid shop sign.
 
So, back to the Mayflower....
 
Ratlines all tied, now she needs a rudder....
 

 
I do wish Piet would come over and create these pintles and gudgeons for me...
 

Here's a "dry run" for the first two yards. They still need a coat of varnish and then rig their sails before installing them permanently. There's a lot left to do, but at least now I know what's ahead of me for rigging the sails.

I have to keep coming up with new tools....this time it's a lamp where I can let the glue dry on the blocks on my yards. They need to hang down while the glue sets. My Admiral hasn't seen this one yet.

Jim,
We will never get tired of questions, even repeated ones......
Dremel is good as stated before me, but hand tools is in many ways better, as you will have a feeling of how much you are reducing.
As you will reduce so much less.
I am using a combo of both, but not for keel.
However, the latest Dremel Micro can do real low rpm's which makes it more controllable.
If you are not used to such a power tool you can create more harm than greatness.
Good luck  

I agree with the above.  Rotary tools have their place, but this probably is not the place.   You can shave a thousand of an inch with a chisel.  I defy anyone to do that with any consistency with a rotary drum.  
 
Allan