Jack12477

My problem also ! 🙄 

My problem also ! 🙄 

The level of detail and perfection in your work is as good as it gets. It's quite simply masterful.

So the extras (dandyfunk) to add interest 

@AJohnsonindeed I did have the same little short shot piece in the very same place. Wonder how this got past their quality control inspectors? I watched a video tour of their factory and they seemed good about inspecting the parts trees before boxing it all together.

Thanks for the likes and comments guys.
 
Moved on to the main fuselage. I won't replicate the posts/pictures Craig has already done, so just some highlights of things I found on my kit.  Namely small niggly "short shot" areas in the mould.  The main one being the intake on the leading edge of the tail fin and then on the trailing edge of the fin itself, just above the rudder. Filled with some putty and drilled out again, but I think it still needs some fine sanding to get as close as I can to how it should look. @CDW did you have this?  Also had to grind off some prominent ejector pin marks in some placed that would prevent a clean fit.
 
Next onto the wing-fold joints and I will try to replicate the work Craig did.
 
Thanks for following along! 🤓
 
 

Your frustration is very understandable, you have my respect.
With a bit of luck the extra links will do the trick and you can stop swearing at it!

@shipman: I did check fit through limits of travel of the swingarm, but it's a matter of the chain being too short. I also laid the chain about the circumference of the molded chain piece and found it too short there as well. One way or the other, I will have a chain on the bike by tomorrow. 😄
I'm working to add a few links as I type this. From here on out, it shall be 3D printed chains for me. No more of these.

On second thought, there were two rear sprockets included, one large and one smaller one. The instructions called for use of the large one. Maybe the smaller of the two would fit without lengthening the chain? I grow weary of this.

The drive chain saga continues: after all the bragging I did about how well Tamiya engineered the chain building jig, come to find out the chain is too short. 🤥
All is not lost, there are more links, rollers, and pins included. I can measure the distance between the axle location on the swingarm and the hub, multiply that times 2 and I should be long enough by adding those links to the chain. I'm debating whether to throw in the towel on the chain and just use the kit chain and sprockets which are molded as a single unit (the correct length). I've about had enough Tom-foolery with this chain.

A small batch of longboat kits is now available.  But they are going super fast....so .....
 
The masting and rigging installments will be coming really soon.   I just have to bang out a whole bunch of Winnie chapter sets first.
 
Chuck

@Nunnehi (Don)
Hello,
Thank you for your positive comment.
I would like to thank the others for the LIKES.
 
Continued: Main yard equipment and others - Footropes and stirrups - Marchepieds et étriers - etc.
The blocks for the La Créole's braces were attached directly to the yard arms by strop. The connection of the blocks for the braces with the thimble sling was called "Dog and Bitch".


In addition to the strops for the braces, strops for the yard tackles also had to be considered, as can be seen in the following picture.


The yard tackles were then only attached when needed. In connection with the stay tackles, e.g. B. the boats are loaded and unloaded. The next picture shows the main yard with the newly installed rigging elements. For the lower yards, this corvette had simple yard lifts with a diameter of 30 mm, which went over blocks hooked into the tops for belaying on deck. The yard arms are now fully occupied. The footropes and stirrups that have already been attached still have to be properly lashed down in the middle of the frame.


I still have to clarify in detail to what extent these lanyards can still be lashed over the sling of the lower yard, as shown in the following drawing by Nares. Unfortunately I don't have a meaningful picture of the original model.

Source: Traité de manoeuvre et de matelotage, George S. Nares, 1868
 
The attachment of a stirrup to the jackstay can be seen in the next detailed pictures.



Finally a picture of the middle of the yard.


Except for the blocks for the clewlines and buntlines and the professional attachment of the stunsail booms, the main yard should then be fully equipped.
I would not have thought that so many rigging elements would have to be attached to a yard. I learned a lot from the research I did on the internet and relevant specialist literature. In the lower yards that follow, the production of the equipment should be all the faster. For the topsail, topgallant and royal yards, on the other hand, some detailed information is required that still needs to be obtained.
Sequel follows …
 

Ready to add 2 radiator hoses and then the body. We are leaving Florida on May 3rd so it will probably be a week before I get back to it. All in all I think this is a poor kit. Too much flash, very few positive attachment points and poorly fitting parts

Nice progress Andrew, ejector seats look great.
 
Gary

Hi, Nigel, nice work on the model.  I use gesso on my boat hulls (Marie Jeanne and Willie Bennett)  to seal the wood before painting. Works fine for me. Thin it down a bit with water first. Try it on some pieces of scarp first before committing it to your model.

This is the purpose of the 7-10-7 marking process. Marking the square stock with this ratio of lines simply makes sure you plane equal amounts of each corner and not misshape the wood while rounding it. 

Second last part, equipment 

I am now at the stage where the ends of the chain are joined with a "master link". I kid you not, I have spent a couple of hours fiddling with that link this morning. So glad it's done now.

Rob
The primary weakness with the Tamiya photo etch chain are the problems associated with cutting the links from the photo etch fret after the chain is assembled. Even careful cutting loosens the holding power of the "clips" that attach to the pins. Tamiya recommends gluing each pin/clip contact point with a thread locker glue (CA is what I used). But then you are left with rough spots that need filing down and smoothed out where the links have been cut from the frets. I am not going to attempt smoothing them out. I am certain it will cause the chain to fall apart in various places due to the stress from filing. Too fragile. 
In retrospect, that resin printed chain looks like a charm. If I had it all to do over again I would buy the resin printed parts but since you already have the photo etch set, give it a try. You may be more successful than I and figure out a better way of handling the issues I described.

Gorgeous... Well done sir...
 
If I may make a suggestion, for historical accuracy, a properly organized Gun Train would have the command car in front, the Liberty "B" truck following that, then the gun sections and the repair truck following the gun....
 
The gun can be barrel first or carriage first doesn't matter, when they got to the site the tractors were detached and the gun crew man-handled the pieces into position for assembly... (if they didn't have a crane available)
 
Brother, This is going to be absolutely spectacular!!!!

That's a much more viable option for extra detail. Price is right, too.

All the things we put our parents through when we were kids come back to us with our own kids. I came home one day to find live fish in my swimming pool. My son thought it would be great to be able to go fishing in our back yard. 🤣

Now, you need to place that chain into warm grease and lubricate it. I still remember the screams of my mother, when my brother and I were using her pans to grease the chains of our mopeds, on the kitchen stove. 🙂
 
Yves

Thanks for all the suggestions. Dug deep and found a pair in my stash that got the job done. Not interested in trying this again anytime soon.

So this is where we are up to so far 
IMG_3662.MOV