Jack12477

It's Kartonowa Kolekcja's second issue. Makes a very nice completed model, but I don't know when (or even if) I'll get around to it. The problem with collecting (hoarding?) kits is that I now always have lots of options for next builds. It's simultaneously a blessing and a curse. 😬
 
Here's the kit cover.

 
And a finished example.

Chuck, I've found these videos on sharpening and stropping helpful.  Once you have the chisel sharpened,  then stropping before each use, and during use, should keep it sharp. You should not have to,put it to a stone everytime.  I use this technique for my woodcarving knives.  Also use a good stropping compound,  usually comes as wax stick, green is finest grit.   
 
Sharpening
 
Stropping

Your attention to the fine details of the forged hooks is nothing short of superb. I've never seen the metal tapered so nicely as you've done it. Brilliant!

Hi,
 
Part 4 is now up covering the chassis and winch gear.
 

 

 

 
 
 
Hopefully next part will see some colour coats going on.
 
Cheers
Slog
 

There's a nice amount of detail on such a "simple" model.  

Dont know if  you have  the link to Bovington?     but here is the link  -   https://tankmuseum.org/
 
OC.

Another excellent  build and another one for you to get your eyes on when you visit the Tank Museum at Bovington, here is theirs  - 
 
OC.

That pit looks Superb.
 
OC.

Surprising detail on such a tiny model.  Impressive.

Continuing with the box stock build, used the kit decal for the seatbelt. The only thing added was a photo copied paper seatbelt to give the decal a more 3d appearance. Once the decal was in place and totally dry, gave the cockpit a dull clear coat to blend the colors together.

 
Cemented the fuselage halves together , inserted the cockpit and cemented it in place, then cemented the wings to the fuselage. Will allow this to thoroughly dry over night.
 

 
 
 

I wasn't very happy with teh overall appearance of teh olive drab; it seemed to be pretty bland so I mixed some buff into dilute olive drab and misted it onto the model

It still wasn't what I wanted but there is a bit more depth so I repeated the process with more Buff in teh mix

The photos all look very similar but in real life I think ether is more shadowing on the model. I'll work on the tracks next with a mix of mud, rust and bare metal.
Alan

Addendum: garnet tackle - Palan d'etai
I almost forgot something. Because to secure the garnet tackle, eyebolts still have to be attached to the deck. I also found out that according to the Paris model, the hauling part for the garnet tackle, which is attached directly to the mainstay, has to be led over a single block. 

So for this purpose some parts had to be made, which can be seen on the following picture (double block with swivel hook only for size comparison):

 
See you soon ...

 

Weird that the filament reacted differently.  Any difference (brand? material?) between the two other than one being new?  

Thanks Kevin, Sorry missed your post. Also thanks for all the likes.
 
Trudging along slowly. Just got back from a little trip to keep the Admiral happy.
 
I've finished the lids on the port side and heading to the bridle ports.
 

 

Nice cockpit in such a small scale!
Dan.

With decals and a wash, the office is dry fitted into the fuselage. Nice fit, no problems at all.
Need to add the seat belts before buttoning it up.
 

Figure 197, 198: Walls with ornaments and headrests in place for compartments #1 and #2.
The walls on the window side will be installed later. Same goes for compartment #1's bathroom.
The work will then continue for compartments #4, #6, #8 and #10, which are identical to #2. (post edit: #10 is different)
Given the headrests have been prepared earlier, overall it takes roughly 1,5 hours per compartment to install these walls to the wagon. This 1,5 hour includes preparing the plywood parts and paper sheets, gluing them, cutting and gluing the wooden strips, gluing the accessories and the headrests in place and finally gluing the walls in their place. 
 

 

 
That's all for today and thanks for watching!
Aydin

I suspect those may not be LED's but some of the old super mini bulbs or even some of the early LED fixtures.  I had some in a display case for light and after about 8 years, they were dead.

Hello Roger and thanks for the comment.
 
LED life span depends on a number of factors and unlike most semiconductors they degrade slightly over time.  So when considering life span, two benchmarks are often quoted - L70 meaning that the device is still emitting 70 percent of its original light output and L50 for 50 percent.  If you average manufacturers claims, the typical life span of an LED at or above L70 is maybe 50,000 hours.  Running them 8 hours a day they should last for 17 plus years or 5.7 years continuously.  I'm not convinced, but that's what they say . And this of course assumes proper circuitry and keeping the device from environmental heat and so on.
 
I use one of these battery holders below.
 

 
The coin battery and the AA holder both output at 3 volts while the other is 9 volt. What I use in any particular instance depends on the wiring configuration and what and how many LEDs are being used and how they will be used.
 
In the photo below is my farm front mini diorama which simply has two 0603 SMD LEDs each drawing about 10ma each. It is powered by a cr2032 coin battery which has a 225mah (milliamp hour) capacity. The battery should last for 11.25 hours if my calculation is correct.  If it were powered by the two AA batteries it could last for 280 hours. I made that dio 5 years ago and I bet the lights don't have more than 4 hours total time on them. I rarely turn the LEDs on and when I do it's typically by request (people do indeed seem to respond favorably to the lighting.)  I would never run a cord to these little shadowbox dioramas, but if I had a display that I wanted to have on most of the time, I would use a power supply that plugs into a wall outlet, set it up with a on/off remote w/dimming and ditch the batteries altogether.
 

 
I hope that answers your question.
 
Thanks again
 
Gary

Evening all,   some more progress  tonight  -   I pulled the rear ramp masking off  and  painted the rear leg area  and the edging  then added a bit of wash,   next I painted and fitted the Two engine exhausts.
 
OC.
 

Dark side, my friend.
I fully understand why 😁. But ... better option than Dune with sandworms 🤫
 

Do you really need to start again? You have the base there, its just missing the cut out for the Topgallant Mast.

NenadM,
 
Just one small suggestion, you need to make a hole to insert the TopGallant Mast into the top.
 

 
The space between the holes is for the cables for the shrouds to pass between the masts and down through the top in the slots you have cut.
 
Simon

Well done on the top, Nenad.  Very tiny and good detail.

Here is a picture with all the different parts of the "Top". There is a Fore Top, Main Top and Mizzen Top