hof00

Hi Chap, How are you getting on with the painting? Looking forward to your progress. Cheers....HOF.

Good on you chap for the perseverance!! I mentioned to you that I had to sand my Pen Duick down to bare wood and start over after the Lacquer I used proved too "Hot" (After that, (Sanding down twice after some Lacquer residue was still present), I decided to leave well enough alone. In total, I painted the Hull three times....) I hope you have more success next Clear-Cote application!! Cheers....HOF.

Thank you Sir.

Hi Chao, Yup, the Rigging Plans are not too helpful, agreed.... The "Standing" Rigging is pretty "Run on the Mill" but the Reefing lines, (Boom) need a bit of research as do the running lines for the Jib, Flying Jib and Foresail. The "Top Sail", Topmast and Jackyard on my version were "Fudged" a little, esp. when it was time to mount these items. Don't worry too much about the rigging at the mo, you haver plenty more stuff to do.... In saying so, there are items on deck that you will need to affix prior to Lines.... (No harm in planning ahead, you need to.) Be confident in your considered decisions/opinions/methods and execution. From what I have seen of your build, you'll be just fine. Ps. If your missing the Forward Hatch Porthole, use a Brass coloured rivet, (Clothing/Boot stuff. (Cheap and Easy... Don't crimp it though..... 🙂)) Remember, I am but a Novice, aren't we all? Every Ship model is so different.... 🙂 As I stated before, look's really, really NICE!! 🙂 Happy to Help if I can. Cheers....HOF.

Hi Chap, Back on-line after the move. (No ships got damaged, careful packing/crating. 🙂) Your Pen Duick is looking rather "Nice!!" Looking forward to seeing your "Paint Job." 🙂 Cheers....HOF.

Nice!! 🙂 If your not completely happy with the Filler, you could use automotive "Spray Putty." My experience is that it fills the Grain and sands effortlessly and gives a "Glass" smooth finish. (once you complete the Bulwarks of course.) (Have a go on some scrap stuff.) Just a suggestion. Cheers....HOF.

Hi Chap, Thanks for asking, it's been a bit of a journey and sitting around trying to keep busy isn't the greatest of pastimes…. 🙂 Settlement tomorrow and move in Wednesday.... Hopefully, there won't be any damage to the contents, (Inc. Ship Models....) It'll be nice to get back into some Modeling once the cats are settled and the house is organised. Cheers....HOF.

Nice!! 🙂

Hi Chap, You rendition is looking really good!! Don't worry about my build in a past life, a few years ago, I am very sure that your Pen Duick will definitely not be an ugly sister!! This is your very own piece of model Ship building/marine art.... 🙂 Take care and take your time.... Always happy to offer advice if I can do so.... (Counting down to Move in date, I just hope the ships come in, in one piece....) Cheers….HOF

Hi Chap, Regarding Glazing, I have heard of others utilizing Microscope "Slide Glass." from my perspective, I didn't worry, just painted the Below Decks Black, you cannot tell, anyway, I can't once its in a Cabinet. 🙂 Here's some photos of the Skylights, Etc. (I'm pretty sure you have these but just in case....) (The Majority of these photos are the Deck Furniture "Placed" on prior to Bulwarks/Hull Planking.) I also "Articulated" Skylights, Forward Hatch and Companionway "Booby" Hatch just because I could and I felt the scale demanded it. (They open and close but the model is in a wood/glass case Can I see me accessing these? Not really.... 🙂 Anyway, Your Pen Duick is coming along really well, looking forward to you next installment. Cheers....HOF.

Hi Chap, Yup, "Position the Bulwarks so they protrude 5.0mm above the Deck." This will give you fixings for the Bulwarks to the Bulkheads as well as the edge of the Deck. (I did forget the Bulwark Strake is wider than the rest of the Planking material.) So, my memory was both right and wrong, but, yes, I utilised the A/L instructions but didn't get too precious.... 🙂 Thanks for the "Memory Jog." Cheers....HOF.

Had a look at the photo of the instructions that you posted in Page 1 of this log. the first Full Planking Strake is 2 - 3 mm below the Deck. So put some "Tick" marks below the bottom of the False Deck, this will ensure that the Planking will be level with the Deck. (The photo "Jogged" my memory.... 🙂) The Bulwarks attach to both the Deck and Bulkheads. Sanding the Bulwark Taper is not too difficult, you just require a Sanding Block to span the Deck so you can taper Port/Starboard Bulwarks at the same time. Any help? Cheers....HOF.

Hi Chap, Just a thought with the Bulwark Strake, what do the A/L instructions indicate? Thinking about the position, from memory, I think that this Strake is also attached a coupe of mm below the Deck but level with the Deck if that makes sense. affixed to the Bulkheads also? (I don't want to put you wrong and all my "Archived" Plans, Etc are in storage.) I'll haver a look at my photos....

Hi Chap, Now your really testing the Memory.... 😀 Yup, Full Width Plank from Bow tp stern, bottom of the Plank level with the base of the False Deck. You get the enjoyment of carefully tapering the Bulwark from Stem to Stern, carefully of course, leaving the full width of the Bulwarks at the Bow. (This will become apparent fitting the Bowsprit, Etc.) (I wouldn't attempt to taper this initial plank (Bulwark), until you have a couple of strakes attached below this from a structural point of view.) The Planking, (All Planking Strakes), needs to extend beyond the False keel at the Bow, where Port and starboard Planks meet, at a juncture a few mm beyond the false Keel, you will need to cut a Taper on the inside edge of each Strake where the Planks meet. (A Knife Edge, sharp bevel.) Start with one side first, let it set, offer up the other side and the angle will become apparent, use you # 11 skills and you'll be alright!! (There is no Keel added so the Knife Edge forward of the False Keel. so the sharp Keel is your own....) Don't overthink too much, if the "Knife Edge" is not perfect, it doesn't matter too much, there's more than enough thickness in the Planking Strakes to sand and obtain the profile, (Knife Edge), necessary. 🙂 The False Deck Bulwark Level will also give you the guide for all subsequent Planking Strakes. If you choose to Plank four from the top, that's fine and thereafter from the bottom up, that's also fine.... (I Went from top to bottom filling in the gaps. 🙂) I was not too precious about it as I was aware that Filler would do the minor Plank "Gap" thing and I had already planned to smooth with Automotive Spray Putty prior to painting. (This was awesome to achieve a silky smooth finish and so easy to sand!!) Sorry I'm not closer to assist you in your endeavour and hope that you can "Visualise" my descriptions.... Cheer and Regards, Harry. (HOF.) .

Hi Chap, Ditto as per previous comment by Don. 😀 (Pretty damn symmetrical!!) Cheers....HOF.

Hi Chap, Nice progress, looking good!! 😃 Cheers....HOF.

Looking good Sir!! I guess that now the fun begins.... 😁 Good to take your time with this stuff. Cheers....HOF.

Hi Chap, Another idea that comes to mind..... Have an "Experiment" with placing Masking Tape, or similar, on a small piece of Plank? (Then you have the problem of removing the tape after you've made the cuts....) (In my kit, there was quite a bit of extra Mahogany for the King Plank, I guess just for this purpose, maybe?) Yup, the Mahogany is extremely fragile.... (The Deck furniture, (Skylights, etc.) wood also....) Razor/Proxon Saw? A scalpel, Cross Cut tends to "Crush" the wood, as I'm sure you have experienced. Another Idea, how about a Bit of Sanding Sealer both sides of the Plank? Have a try on a small piece. The above are just ideas, Sanding Sealer can improve the integrity of the wood structure once dry and will not impair the look of the wood once the whole Deck is sanded as a complete unit. Anyway, trying to be practical/pragmatic. Maybe others on this forum can also offer some sage advice? Cheers....HOF.

Hi Bob, You're popping up all over the place!! 😁 Saw your enquiry on "Cabbie's" Mermaid. I had the problem you described above.... I resorted to my "Mini " Proxon saw to cut Cross-grain after experiencing the same problem that you are encountering.. You could support the Mahogany strip on thin scrap, wood and use a Razor Saw to go cross grain? (You would need some sort of template to decide on cross Grain cuts and longitudinal cuts.) (Sorry, I didn't do a template for my build, just had a thought that this might make things easier.) I didn't try it, but maybe if the King Plank is affixed first, there'd be less risk of breaking it. Again, have a go on a small piece first, see if the integrity of the wood is better stuck down. (The only downside to this is that if in error, you'll have to try and remove the King Plank.) If it helps, I marked the King Plank 2.0mm from either long edge to give me the cross grain depth of cut for each "Joggle." Mark the vertical once you know the length of joggled ends. (From memory, the long ends of each joggle were approx. 80') Another thing is that the Mahogany around the hatch openings will assist in determining the position of the King Plank. (Once again, you will have cross grain mitre cuts....) Planning I guess. Cheers.... HOF. Get your Waterway/Margin plank on first, it should flow from there.

Hi Chap, .Pretty good to see some New Zealand Modell Kitsets making the International stage.... (Good on Peter Jackson for his passion/s.) There are some wonderful "Bare Bones" aircraft that I have seen in some of the regional airports here.... (Mr. Jackson again....) If you can, have a look at one of Mr. Jackson's, if not his first film, "Bad Taste....." (Alien Splatter Movie.) I have friends here that helped with the "Soundtrack." (Forgotten Silver is another wonderful NZ Spoof well worth a look.) Cheers….HOF.)

Hi Chap, Looking pretty damn good!! (Much better than this "Go For It Guy." (Brings back some fond memories....) So, I guess you'll be planking the Deck soonish? I used a Mahogany strip for the Waterway/Margin Plank. If guess if you don't have the mahogany Strip timber at hand you could always stain? You should easily be able to "Edge Form" the Deck Planking as the curve is not too severe. (I used Aliphatic Resin/PVA for Decking, gives time to adjust things and simply wipe off any excess.) Ensure that the Margin Plank goes all the way from Bow to Stern, Not right around the Stern, of course.(You can trim the Stern Margin later with a Razor Saw. I held the Deck Planking in place with Micromark Screw Planking Clamps, (Screws inboard of course.) (You might have a different method but ensure the Margin Plank is symmetrical and in-line with the False Deck edges, symmetry is everything with the Deck Planking.) You don't need to worry about Joggling at this stage, as you know. Ensure you draw a Centre line down the False Deck before you do the above also.... (-: That will also give you the Mitre for the Margin Plank at the Bow. There I go again, teaching you to suck eggs.... (-: Cheers....HOF.

Nice "Skeleton!!" I think maybe sand the Doublers/Stiffeners with a narrow sanding block, Cross Grain, between the Bulkheads first so the Bulkheads don't get "Notched." (I used fairly Corse abrasive paper for this to start with. You'll decide what works for you.) Also, maybe run some Masking Tape along the edge of the False Deck when you "Fair" the Bulkheads, this should ensure that the False Deck Symmetry is retained, really important for the Deck Planking. 🙂 Anyway, not teaching you to "Suck Eggs." A nice start Sir, take your time and know when to "Walk away." Cheers....HOF.

🙂 Yup, there is a Build Log of the Cutty…. (Build logs are under HOF00) No worries, (And no charge 🙂) for trying to offer assistance, that's part of the spirit of this site!! Cheers....HOF.

Yup, I'm currently doing a "Tear Down" and re-build of A/L Sanson. (19th Century Steam Tug.) I was not happy with the way that this was going, so Pull it apart and try to put it back together.... (Log on this site.) I cannot do anything at present as all my modeling stuff is in storage with my moving company until early June. Even after we take possession of the new property, there will be more than a couple of weeks to unpack things. One of my colleagues in a past life used to say to me, "So many ships, so little time...." I'm really looking forward to the Mamoli "Flying Cloud." (I love the Clippers....They take a huge commitment in terms of research/time but well worth the effort. (My father used to say to me, "Son, it's not what you come into the world with, it's what you leave behind." 🙂) Cheers....HOF. .

Hi Chao, Good to hear your progress. The Rudder Tube did not take all that long to drill, the Ply is pretty compliant. You'll be on to the Deck soon, look at it as an ":Opportunity, " (A Learning perhaps?) I am sure that your decking will be better than mine!! (If you can complete your Longboat to that standard, you have some awesome Ship modelling skills. 🙂 ) I'll send some Pen Duick photos to your E-Mal a little later this evening. (One thing I have learned, esp. with the Cutty Sark, is walk away if your not in the right head space. 🙂 ) Again, think about the next move and the consequences of your actions. Sleep on it perhaps? (Practical and Pragmatic.... I think that I am teaching you to suck eggs here? 🙂 ) (I am enjoying the Log and your build, as stated, I have plenty of downtime at present.... 🙂 ) Cheers....HOF.