hof00

Thanks Boyd, The Avatar was my favorite Abyssinian, Sudamo, now sadly passed as few years ago but was also responsible in trashing my A/L Cutty Sark together with his Sister, Asmara. (I think a very appropriate Avatar.) Abby's are just so "Full on" and I don't think I would settle for any other type of cat. Phoenix and Shiwa are the two at present. Cheers....HOF.

To Continue, after Pendants installed, time to think about Braces. This was initially very confusing to figure out the "Run." (I even used some Revell plans that I found on the Net to help me visualize!!) I figure work from Top to bottom, in a manner that would not "Paint me into a corner" so to speak. Another challenge were the Braces that were tied, (Siezed), to various Forestays, I made a thread loop and tied to the end of these Braces, fixed with CA. I could then fix the Brace somewhere accessible on the Stay in question by running the "Live" end of the Stay running through the thread loop, pull up the tension so that the Brace would slide up the Stay, one positioned, pull up the Stay nice and tight and secure with a little CA. I did try to directly knot the Braces to the stays but the knot formed looked like Dogs B...s!! This was the only real option available to me due to the lack of space and the height of the Model on the Bench. Braces were not "Belayed" at this stage, there was too much going on, (Very busy!!), and I wanted to ensure that the runs were correct, not interfering with each other or any other Rigging. Quite complex to describe and quite difficult to visualize. Once I was happy with things, I belayed all braces on the Ship. Last thing to do, Flags and Flag Hallyard. I used the Flags from the A/L kit and secured to the Flag Hallyard. Once done, Installed to tip of Gaff and tied to the Starboard Rail. I have had comment that it would be better not to have the Pendants below the Merchant Navy flag but I pointed out that the spell out "JKWS" (Jock Willis, the Ships owner.) All Done!! A couple of notes: All Blocks were Stropped with 24 Ga Black Plastic coated "Artistic" Wire, Local Bead Shop sourced. Ratlines, Black Sewing Thread. Stanchions: Billings 2 hole. Rigging Material A/L. Cross Tree Spreaders: A/L "Muntz" metal. (These were very much "In Scale." Just had to make the holes a little bigger.) All Standing Rigging Served. Fore and Aft Bumpkins made by my friendly Manufacturing Jewelers. (Logridge Spec.) SpiderBands, Fore/Main/Mizzen: Made again by my friendly Manufacturing Jewelers. (HOF Spec.) Chain Sheets/Gammoning/Halyards: A mixture of Billings and A/L (Sheets may have been a little oversize but who cares? :-)) Sheet Chain Run and Blocks: A/L but cast in Brass. (again by my friendly Manufacturing Jewelers.) Railings: Hard Brass wire. (Bent and adjusted with love. :-)) Deck house sides/Scroll work: Double O Laser (US) (As alluded to by Keelhauled,(Marc), seems to have disappeared off the radar,) I can't think of allot more at this stage but am more than happy to advise interested Parties of my methods/solutions. Just drop me a line. It's been interesting to think about what went into it and good to share. I'll end with a couple of photos....

Thanks Marc!! I like to get on the Bigger Woodworking Tools occasionally. O.k, to continue, Time to tie Mainmast, (Fore/Main/Mizzen) Ratlines. this was a little difficult as all Back stays had been rigged, so it was a case of being extremely careful, trying not to break things!! Got really difficult at the Futtock level and above. Probably would have been better to tie these earlier but it was what I chose to do. Next came pendants.... I used the A/L plans to determine the lengths of these. Looked about right at the end of the day. I used the smallest Single Blocks from the Sergal Kit and tied to extremity of the Yards to a 2mm Brass ring held into the yard by the smallest ring Bolt that I could find. (2mm Rings feature all over this model as it gives a rotational quality to the Rigging attached,) Tied Single and Double blocks on to various Shrouds/Stays as shown in the Grenwich Plan. (Just to point out an error in these Plans, the only one I found, is the Block tied to the Main Mast Shroud, close to the Sheer Pole, this is described as Single but is actually Double!! Try removing what is already attached and swapping for a Double at this stage, almost impossible.... So really important to have all these blocks fitted before the Braces are Rigged. (I did have some real "Fun" in a couple of other Blocks that I missed....)

Thank you all for your replies!! Hi have a couple of A/L ships already complete, Bluenose II and Mare Nostrum and the Keel ha always been fitted after the 1st planking. I guess I'm looking for an alternative method? I have read somewhere that the Keel is fitted prior to the 1st planking, maybe with a Bearding Line cut at the join of the two Keels. The False Keel is nice and straight!! :-) I bought the "Anatomy of the Ship - Endeavor" a few months ago off Abe Books. The Bulkheads needed a little "judicious" work with a Flat File to get a nice fit on the False Keel. A little disappointing that the holes for the Mast locations were not pre-cut, never mind.... I took the measurements off the plan with some calipers and transferred to the Ply Decks. Just need to also mark positions of the Bulkheads on to the decks. So, at Present, I have not gone "Wild" with the glue, just dry-fitted at this stage. (Measure twice, cut/glue once. :-)) If I am to fit the Keel first before planking and cut a rebate. it will need to be done before the Bulkheads/Decks are fitted. (Hence the question.) Cheers and Regards, Harry.

Another question, (Don't want to be a pain), how did you accomplish the "Weathering" on the Decks? Looks awesome.... Cheers....HOF.

Hi Chap, Would like to pick your Brains. (You've probably had a sleep since then!!) Am embarking on the A/L Build of the Endeavor, would aspire to the quality/fidelity of yours, but am at the very early stage of the build. Did you perform the 1st planking prior to attaching the Keel or did you attach the Keel after cutting a "Bearding" line prior to planking? One other question, Did you get plans from the Alexander Turnbill Library or just use "Anatomy Of The Ship? Have heard both arguments, (Keel/Planking), and have built A/L ships attaching the Keel after 1st Planking. Your advice/experience would be very welcome. Cheers....HOF.

Any ideas/thoughts regarding/securing the actual Keel on the False Keel prior to planking? Do I do this and rout the bearding line first, or plank and then attach the keel? Ideas/thoughts welcome.... Cheers....HOF.

Hi Marc, Looking really good. Your Dead Eyes look good with the White Strops. Had the same issue as you with the Mizzen Dead Eyes, I drilled the appropriate holes and Epoxied Dead Eye Strops into the holes. (Was far too late for me to think about fitting extras under the Deck....) The Epoxy worked o.k. but care had to be taken that none of this gets anywhere near the dead Eye, should you need to adjust its orientation in its Strop. My solution to the problem anyway. Cheers....HOF.

Thanks for the compliment!! Yours is looking pretty good also!! Cheers....HOF.

Thanks Boyd, Interesting methods we use to approach things. Yup, I had the problem of the Felt Marker, (Sharpie), bleeding into the wood also, why I reverted to Sanding Sealer first. The description of Chucks method of Tree Nails sounds like its worth a go and I'll be having a look at Chucks Build too. Cheers....HOF.

Question for you Chap, What method did you use for your Caulking and Tree Nails on your decks? Looks good!! In the past, I have coated my Decking strips with Sanding Sealer, when dry I run a Black Marker down one edge. I also drill the ends of the Deck planks and inserted Bristles from a Hearth Brush, Tedious. Once sanded smooth it looks o.k. though. Cheers....HOF.

Thanks Boyd, It was hard enough to reach the Main Top Gallant Stays/Braces/Halyards/Etc without having to tie the Ratlines!! (Telling myself to Breathe!! :-)) Hope my hair was o.k. for the photo!! Maybe I could have used a Box to stand on.... Cheers....HOF.

The new project.... O.K Endeavor, something that is so close to NZ. Have done "Dry Fit" of bulkheads would like some feedback as to the "Real" Keel. Do I fit now or wait until the streaks are done? Have done a couple of A/L Ships but am interested in maybe cutting Bearding Line in Keel before planking? Thoughts?

You are most welcome!! Thank you for your kind words. I am humbled by the diversity/quality of the models on this site.

Thanks for your "Likes" Much appreciated. I'll talk about Pendants./Braces next weekend. I hope the Cabinet details are of some use. Cheers and Regards....HOF. (Harry.)

Right, getting there.... Next job was the Mizzen Mast to complete, the Sheer Poles had to go around each Shroud, the question was how after the Shrouds were already installed? They needed to accept Belying Pins for Running Rigging as well. The answer was to create some wooden templates of the correct size, with holes drilled for the Shrouds. After this was done, I made the final Sheer Poles and cut them down at the Center of the Shroud Holes. These were fitted and the Sheer Poles were glued back together taking care not to glue the Shrouds to the Sheer Pole. More Rigging.... You know your getting close when the Vangs are installed for the Gaffs!! All Boats were tied down in their respective places at this time also, a little difficult given the amount of Rigging in the way.

It seemed to work out o.k. and I guess the ends justifies the means, sometimes.... So, having harmonized the Yards on the Fore Mast some of the Running Rigging could be attached, I didn't worry too much about Fair Leads through the Main Top but ensured that the Rigging was not tangled in any way around other Sheets/Leads. Some/most of the Fore Stays were also installed. Back Stays were also added at this juncture. The Main Mast followed Suit....

O.K to carry on, now the turn of the Main Mast, as stated in an earlier Post, I decided to build the Top and Top-gallant Masts as separate entities. One reason for this was that it was getting very difficult to reach and I didn't want to use a Ladder to tie Ratlines!! A couple of photos to illustrate:

Something that was important to consider at this stage was a Cabinet for this "Beastie." Did I have the Room? As the Ship was complete in terms of O/A length, breadth and height, it was time to design and build. I used recycled Rimu, a New Zealand Native wood. (Very expensive even if you can source it new!!) The wood has a wonderful "Warm" look and feel. My goals that I had in mind for this were ease of maintenance if Glass got broken, Lighting options and a low Center of Gravity. (Being prone to Earthquakes.) The Size of the Cabinet, 1470mm long, 570mm wide, and 850mm high. The base is about 60mm wider and longer and is a fairly hefty40mm thick and supported by six 160mm legs. with the Glass installed it weighs approx 50kg. (I put Carpet Sliders on each leg, really important with the weight.) I used 6mm Safety Glass in the top, (Pleased I did as the Cats like to get up there from time to time), and 4mm glass for the ends and sides. I got the end and side glass coated in a clear Laminate to avert the danger of a "Shatter!!" The timber is coated in several coats of "Tung" Oil and Bees wax to finish. Lighting is LED warm White strip lighting at each corner. The whole thing was bolted and screwed together. It also gave me an additional incentive to finish the Ship!! The Cabinet is quite large and only gives a clearance of 100mm at each end, about 30mm from the top of the top of the Main Mast and about the same for the widest Yard. (This was by far the easiest part of the build!!)

Masts were not "Glued" in position but held in place by the tension of Standing Rigging. (Much easier to replace if, God Forbid, there is a breakage!!) Running Rigging already installed did not get in the way too much and had to be installed so that there was plenty of length to Belay later. Hallyards for the Yards, installed at this stage, assisted greatly with the Vertical positioning of the Yards Harmonising the Yards was a bit of a mission, (Getting everything "Square"), as the rigging "Works." (Pull on one side and the other side moves out of "Square."

Oky Dokie, to carry on.... As stated previously, yards were prepared, (Tapered, Bands, Jackstays, Etc.fitted, I also attached all the blocks Running Rigging that I could think of and decipher from various Plans. (Stirrups for the Foot-ropes i initially used very thin Galvanized wire but this proved really brittle so ended up using the thinnest Copper Wire that I could find from a "Beading" shop. this was attached to the Jackstays in the appropriate locations and painted Black) For the Chain Run Blocks and Sheaves. I got the A/L versions Cast in Brass. Same treatment for the Main, Top and Topgallant Masts.

That's pretty awesome detailing!!

Hi Chap, Happy to help. Have a good rest of the weekend!! Cheers....HOF.

Here you go Thomas: Laser Cut Enhancements.... http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/76-double-laser-enhancements-mantua-134121739 Unsure if Double O are doing these now. Might pay to give them a call. Cheers....HOF.

Hi Thomas, Thank you very much for your kind words!! I did incidentally have the Billings C/S as well but gave this away to a very old friend of mine who's late father built Model Ships. He wanted to have a go and since my Sergal C/S was almost complete at the time, I passed it on. In New Zealand, we seem to be pretty limited in what we can get our hands on. In the main, A/L or Billings, anything else, Import!! The Internet of things is just fantastic!! Right, comparisons? Artesania Latina C/S I did like the A/L C/S as this was the flavor of kits that I had built up to then. (A/L Bluenose/Mare Nostrum) The A/L C/S was nicely engineered, all hull components went together really well. The thing with the A/L kits is they give you more than enough material of every description, so, if you do make an error or two, there's usually more than enough material to fix. A/L is a Single POB, the Hull Strakes are 2.0mm thick and do not go from Stem to Stern. The castings/Fittings were of good quality, (Just one thing that I wish they would stop using is the "Muntz" metal bits, these are o.k. but if you need to try to straighten/adjust these they will break.) Lots of different Rigging size material and lots of Chain for Sheets/Lifts/Etc. Plans were excellent for 1 to 1 sizes and careful study is required to figure out what Yard goes to what Mast, I guess this is required of any build anyway. Instructions dealt with the Hull only, once you've done that, they say refer to the pictures.... (There is an old and new version of the A/L C/S, the old was the Spanish Manufactured one, without sails, and the new is, I believe, a Chinese manufactured one, with sails.) The New version is just as good as the old. (I am a "Cutty Nut" and have this in my cupboard. ) There is room for improvement in every kit, the rear "Main" deck house is too narrow, should be the same width as the fore deck house. I could go on but it is the individual who will add/modify/or not. I did use the Mast/Yard and rigging plans from this kit allot.... At 1/96 scale, it's not too huge for a Cabinet. I found a really good kit, as far as I got with it anyway. Billings C/S Right from opening the box, I didn't like it. Again, Single POB. Laser cut components of good quality, False Keel to be made up, 3 Pieces, inaccurate rigging plan, same as Sergal, and I didn't like the way that the Deck/Main Rail components were to be assembled. Again, I guess it's up to the individual how much time and effort they wish to put in. (I did notice that there is a current Billings C/S Build Log on this site. Rigging Material is "Wanting" for the lack of a better word. Maybe that's why I gave it away.... However, I did use the plans/Mast/Yards as a "Sanity" check for the Sergal build. I did not like the plastic components either, maybe I'm too fussy. Sergal/Mantua C/S I stated this, as you know, after the Bush Rat chase pretty much destroyed the A/L build. I didn't really know what to expect. as stated in this Log, Things went together for the Hull really well, I was very pleased how it evolved. The Hard Balsa 1st planking was a breeze to work with as was the second Walnut planking. Nice Brass castings for Deck fixtures, etc. Now, there are two versions for this, an old and a new. the new doesn't have the Brass PE stuff for the Bulwarks/Deck Houses/Etc. and doesn't have anything to take it's place. I desperately wanted this so my Wife, at the time, called Mantua, (She spoke fluent Italian), and got them to send to me. If your going to do something like this build, you could get away without it but I would strongly urge you to purchase the Laser cut offering from "Double O" Laser Products for this Kit. I did anyway for the Name Boards/Deck House sides. Anyway, I digress, There were lots of Modifications done in my particular build, Bulwark Stanchions, Etc,Etc. (I guess I went "Overboard" a little but it was a challenging "Overboard." I used the A/L Rigging Thread exclusively, Brown in different diameters for Standing Rigging and Beige for the Running Rigging, apart from Chain for Sheets/Lifts/Etc. Hi had read in other Forums that the Yards/Masts were not accurate lengths for the Sergal C/S so I scaled mine up from the AL plans. Rigging Plan, I found a little confusing to say the least so my real reference were the Plans from the C/S Society in Greenwich. Lots of modifications to the Main Rails, there went many Backstays in the Sergal plan.... I found that overall, the kit was of good quality. I guess if you are looking to get something pretty accurate, OOB go with Artesania? I did like the difference in scale with Mantua, larger of course, easier to get my fingers in to tight to reach places and has a bit of "Presence" when complete. I found that no matter which you choose, research is really good, Longridge's book and Basil Lubbock's Log of the Cutty Sark. Plans from the C/S society were a great addition also, (Once I had taken them to a Photocopy/Print shop to increase the size to something that I could read!! ) Anyway Chap, My two cents worth and my opinions only, someone out there would probably "Counter" my estimation of things. I do wish you all the best in your decision/choice. Happy to help if I can. Cheers....HOF. (Harry)