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DaveRow

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Everything posted by DaveRow

  1. Shipyard Update: Ratlings: Finished the Port Mizzen Ratline. A few pictures along the way below. Below is my Magnifier which has been used for every knot for the ratlins. Both Mizzen sides completed.
  2. Michael, This is the Magnifier I use. https://rhinotools.com.au/product/led-5-dioptre-black-magnifying-lamp-smd/ Have been using it for approx. 2 years now. Hands are just in front of the magnifier, LED light is good as well.
  3. The Knack ?? >> Edward Scissorhands comes to mind. Using tweezers in both hands to tie those knots has come natural to me.
  4. Pat, Those cable stoppers are fantastic. Keep the good work up.
  5. Shipyard Update: Ratlings: A bit of an update to where the "rats" are at. A good two weeks of part time tying knots > the Fore and Main mast lower shrouds are done. Taking shape with lower ratlines on Fore and Main Masts Fore Mast Stb Ratline Main Mast Starboard Ratline Some close ups of the ForeMast ratline - knotting in progress. Above: The process I followed was to tie every 6th full length ratline first(loops each end), followed by the intermediate 3rds(shorter by 1 shroud). Aim being to hold the shrouds evenly, then fill in the pairs between(where the clamps were). Above: Each ratline from the jig was tied to the shroud with 2/half hitches to the loop, then 2/half hitches about each inner shroud towards the rear. Every 6th looped to the back shroud. The 5 ratlines between the 6th's, half hitched 1 shroud back. At the bottom, every 6th first (red end line #4, blue length) and then the 3rds (blue #1 & 7, with pink highlight for the length) Above: Further up, every 6th first (red end line #10) and then the 3rds (blue #13, with pink highlight for the length) This way I kept track of the type and length of each ratline I added. Mizzen Shroud Ratlines: Setup the paper template on the Starboard shrouds, and made a start this week. I decided to loop each end of the Mizzen ratlines to the shrouds. Close up of the end loops. Shows the loose ends not cut cleanly though. Hard to trim them off close without cutting the loop. Plenty more to go.
  6. Shipyard Update: Ratlings: Nothing new here for those who have done ratlines. Below applies to the Fore and Mizzen mast shrouds. Main Shroud Ratlines: I used a sheet of plain white A4 paper to mark out lines for the shroud locations(they are behind the shrouds), with the fore edge vertical to the waterline. The ratlines will be tied to the shrouds, level with the waterline. The horizontal lines are 6mm apart(equates to near enough to 15" rungs) are: - Blue every 6th -> tie these first. - Red min-way between the blue lines -> tie these second. - Pencil, 2 between the reds and blues -> tie these third. I used lengths of left over planking behind and in front(can slide up/down) of the shrouds to hold them firmly near the ratline being added. I used the Stave, as the start and a 6mm drop to the first ratline. The first Ratline added just above the dead eyes to hold them in line. I used the 1st one from the Jig. Loops both ends. The next Ratline 6th one up, so I use the 6th Ratline from the same side of the Jig. And so it has started, Ratline and more Ratline to go > how many hours ahead. !
  7. Shipyard Update: Shroud Ratlings: Time has come to delve into the Ratlings. I have read a lot of members posts to gain as much information and instructions of how to do the Ratlings. Many great systems have been described, shared. Many thanks to all for those posts, it has made my life ahead much easier. Ratlings: I made a Jig to pre-loop one end of each ratline for a mast. 2 pcs of 19mm pine with small brad nails set at 6mm apart(on the vertical right side). The head of each nail cut and filed. Next stage was to wind the ratline rope(at my model scale = 0.2mm) from side to side. Then on the inner side of each nail, 2 x half hitches were tied, then onto the next and next till the end nail. Same for other side. Then the twine between each ratline/mail was removed, carefully. Both sides. Last stage was to cut one side of the loop on the nail. All one side on 1 set of mails, then the opposite on the other set of nails. Hope that makes sense. Basically you want to end up with 2 sets of Ratlines(with a loop one end) like below. 1 set each for the Starboard and Port Shrouds of a Mast. You only need to make the set you need for the number of Ratlines for a Shroud Set, and the length is the tricky one to work out. I'll leave that for you to ponder on. I ran a test one for the longest to work out the length. Next >> fitting them.
  8. Shipyard Update: End of Jib Boom Blocks: Added on the end of the Jib Boom several blocks for future rigging. Got quiet crowded on the end.
  9. Hi Mr Dashi, It has been some time since your last post. Good to see you have progressed some on the model. Looking very impressive, with some fine detail on the rear deck. Health issues seem to play a part in the things we enjoy the most as we get older(or from past wounds). What a bugger I reckon.
  10. Shipyard Update: Bowsprit and Jib Boom: Me and the shippy's been working on getting the Jib Boom into shape for the TopGal rigging to attach to. A traveler has been added to the Boom (for a Jib) with the tackle under. A couple of pictures of the parts, welded and on the boom, and then tackle attached. The above: I cut a slot in a ring, formed a hook and a loop, slid onto a piece of bar ready to weld up. I was hoping the hook and loop would rotate on the bar, but that went out the door when the solder ran. Traveler in place on the boom, will do the job. Shipyard spent hours to get it to this stage. End of the Boom taking shape with traveler tackle rope, 2 Horse ropes over the end. I counted another 4 more ropes to go onto the end. Traveler blackened and painted black, rope attached. Traveler tackle attaches back to the middle of the Bowsprit head. A couple of items onto the Bowsprit Added two(2) thimbles back behind the Fore-preventor stay to hold the ropes coming back, similar to on the Endeavour Replica. Added Tackle to the Jib Boom end for extending the Jib Boom out when retracted. Probably add the rope/blocks on the end of the Jib Boom next.
  11. Hi Pat, The peg board, I got from J-Car Electrical. I have a block of timber under it, which I drill holes in for the brass pegs to drop in(glue) for fixed positions. For bending hooks around. The wood is soft enough for the drawing pins to push into firmly for temp positions, then pull out.
  12. Shipyard Update Bowsprit Horse and Stay Sail Netting: Put together the above as an off-boat construction. Mix of AoTS and Replica details. Thanks to Steve "Shipaholic" for sending me the netting some time back. Above is the netting sewed around the rope sides with timber ends (overall 45mm long x 11mm wide) Added knots along the ropes either side, and loop at lower ends for lashing to bow head eye-bolts. The electrical board comes in use for "pinning" items to work on. Lashed in place. The Bowsprit Boom in it's "pull back" position whilst all this going on to make sure the horse and net cleared. Added a lift behind the Fore Preventor Stay. Might try the Top Gallants next.
  13. Shipyard Update Topmast Futtock Stave and Catharpins: As others who have reached the dizzy heights of rigging, I am sure realized things get tight and busy. When the lower mast Futtock Stave and Catharpins were added, thye caused me enough tired arm syndrome. They we each added individually, tied in place. For the Topmast sets, I devised the plan to "pre-build" them as much as possible, then hoist them up and tie into position. So the picture below shows the 2 sets, each with 3 catharpins to match the Gallant shrouds. Each is just on 16mm wide to fit between the shrouds. The lower section of the picture shows how I made each of the catharpins on 2 pins, seized each end and cut the ends. Each Stave is 7mm long, a tad bit too long so I found out when they were hoisted up. But they both at this length give some latitude to feed the Gallant shrouds between the Top Mast shrouds, around the Stave when that task takes place(soon I hope). What is not shown on the picture is, I added a good length of twine(looped) at each end of the brass Staves. So when each was hoisted, I had something to immediately tie to the relevant shroud. Fore Topmast Futtock Stave: The Stave being a bit too long pushed the rear shroud out, not going to change it now. Main Topmast Futtock Stave: What to do next ??
  14. Shipyard Update Fore Topmast Stays: Tackles The tackle for the Fore Topmast Stays have been added to the Bowsprit. For the 2 tackle sets I used 7mm Fiddle blocks, 5mm single blocks with a 4.5mm rope. I lowered the Stays from the cross trees to do the rope work about each block. The Fore Stay on the Starboard Side of the Bowsprit: Close up of the Tackle fixed to the inner gammoning and tread'd back to the rear cleats on the Bowsprit. Similar for the Preventor Stay on the Port side of the Bowsprit. Update to the attachment of the Tackle. I changed the Tackle end onto the eye-bolt for both sides. The replica and "Petersen's" has it this way and seems the way to go. Once the Fore Stays are tension'd, no need for further adjustment, leave the cleat for the running lines. Next task: Skimmy up the Fore & Main Top Masts and add the Futtock Staves & Catharpins >> be ready for the shrouds to the Top Gallants.
  15. Hi Pat, I also love the way the rudder has shaped up. You have done a great bit of workmanship on it. I'll keep looking in from time to time, whilst I finish off my little project.
  16. Thanks for looking in Nils, Nigel & Pat. As for detail, just trying to make it look authentic as I can. Which is a challenge at times with the scale at 1:60 !! The mast collar were one of the few "metal" items I used from the original kit.
  17. Shipyard Update MainMast Fore Stays: So just before I left for holidays, I'd made the Fore and Main TopMast Fore Stays(mouse + loops). Today I ran the Main TopMast Fore Stays onto the Fore Mast blocks and with tackle fixed to the base of the Fore Mast. Little sketch below I used to map out the runs and blocks, rope to use. The run of the Fore Stays through the Foremast Blocks: The Main Top Mast Fore Stay Tackle runs to the Starboard side of the Fore Mast: The Main Top Mast Preventor Fore Stay Tackle runs to the Port side of the Fore Mast: It took me a little while to work out where I was on the rigging. Being away form the model desk for nearly 2 months, I needed to refresh the brain as to where the build was at. Next I'll probably tackle the Fore TopMast Fore Stays.
  18. Hi All, Hope everyone has been well and made progress on their projects. Well I made it back from Italy, great adventure and enjoyed it immensely. Hope to get back to the Endeavour rigging shortly. Just a bit of house keeping to do after being away. Dave R
  19. Thanks to all who have looked in recently. Hope you have enjoyed my posts. The shipyard is now mothballed and on holidays. Will be back from Italy in 5 weeks time to resume construction.
  20. OMG Greg, So much detail, but what a beauty. How are your eyes ?, I'd go blind working on all those small parts.
  21. Shipyard Update Top Mast Shrouds and Breast Stays: View of how she looks so far. So what has been added since last post ? Checked the rake of all 3 Masts. The Mizzen is not raked enough by approx. 1 maybe 2 degrees. Not sure how I got this wrong, as I checked it was right before I glued the collar in at the deck. And that is where the error crept in, and now too late to rectify. TopMast Shrouds. Shroud Jig: My arms and hands got so tired when I fitted the lower shrouds, in-situ, I decided to try "off the boat" using a jig to make the shrouds. First step was to make all the shrouds with the loop at the top. Second was to mark the length of the leading shroud of each pair and transfer to the jig. Third, I transferred the shroud(pair) to the jig and tied off(do the rope work) the end to the dead-eye. Some pictures of the Jig below. The front pair from the Port and Starboard sides of the Fore TopMast. On the left I have some "pegs" in holes that I can move to simulate where the loop is in relation to the dead-eyes below. On the right I have a sliding plate which moves accordingly with the length of the shrouds. Close up of the dead-eye end. The small board was not very stable, moving about when I made the first set above. Upgrade to Jig. So I attached the small jig board to a large piece of wood, fitted snugly between 2 runners, so it can slide left/right. I did this so one could get your hand around the dead-eye end. The next pairs of shrouds(stern side) with the shrouds crossed to simulate the rake aft. It might not be perfect but at this scale pretty much close enough. Saved my hands being up in the air for ages trying the knots. View on Fore - Top Mast View on Main - Top Mast Breast Stays: Either side of the TopMasts are Breast Stays leading down the the channels. 5mm single block on the lower end of 0.45mm rope. Fore TopMast - Breast Stay fall Just got temp. lines holding the block, so I can take it off when I do the Rattling lines. Tackle to go on after the Rattlings. And the Main TopMast - Breast Stay fall Again temp. lines holding the block, so I can take it off when I do the Rattling lines. Next jobs for the shipyard to look at: - the Fore & Main TopMast Backstay pairs - Fore & Main Stays(main and preventor) forward. - then onto the Rattling Lines to all the Shrouds. Can't wait for that little task to start. However, most of the above will have to wait, as the Admiral and I are off on a holiday to Italy. Bwon a sera Arri ved erci
  22. Welcome on board Martin(Aussie). I have found the site extremely helpful with lots of information and members seem to pop up to offer excellent advice on all sorts of building topics. Stick with it. Dave R
  23. Shipyard Update Top Mast Burton Tackles: So for the Burton Tackles we used 4mm double and single blocks with 0.45mm tan rope. First step we made the 2 pendants. Each with a loop to drop over the top mast(holds the rope in place). The "loop" was from same 0.45mm rope threaded through the main run and CA glued used to hold in place. The outer leg cut when dried. The legs of the pendant seized from the loop to the start of the dead-eye off the mast top(20mm). We cut a groove in the cheeks of the 4mm double blocks, for the rope to drop in. Completed Pendants. The Main Burton being longer than the Fore Burton. Below the Fore Top Mast with Burton Tackles in place. Below the Main Top Mast with Burton Tackles in place. Below a closer look at the bottom of the Tackles: > the rope end finished/wrapped up. > small hooks were made to hook into the eye bolts. Next the Shrouds Dave R
  24. Hi Pat, Got yourself a beauty to spend your time on here. Like the research and outcomes. I'll keep an eye on the progress.
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