DaveRow
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Everything posted by DaveRow
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Hi Bob, Have you left room for the rudder stock to pass up to the deck ? and room for the rudder to pivot. I added extra supports either side, for the planks to glue to and the hatch between. Dave R
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Mike, I found then surfaces need to be clean to allow the power to flow through easily. Pincer Electrodes: I clean(spear them into steel wool) the pincer electrodes nearly every time just before I do a weld. A little time consuming, however I reckon it helps create a clean contact point for the power to run through. I position the pincers either side of the joint, if that makes sense, so the solder fills the gap up. and > I assume you use a flux on the surfaces that you want joined. I use a white paste, it sticks onto the surface, doesn't run until the power runs through, and the solder goes to where the flux is/was. And I got a tip from one of our Aussie modeler's, use thin low temp. silver solder - 2 types. That made another difference. A pic of some earlier ones for Mizzen dead eyes. Bit of a file to clean em up. I am bias, I am a fan of resistance welding. PS The hardest part is getting the copper wire to the shape, consistently, a jig works. Dave R
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Hi Mike, Agree with Mark, close them up. I was not good at hand soldering. I went all out and bought a "resistance welding unit" This is a AB Superchief 250 from www.americanbeautytools.com The manufacturer is in the USA.(I don't have shares in them) How the RW works http://resistancesoldering.com/site/ Cost a fair bit to convert to 220v and import to AUS. Worth every dollar to get neat joints, and no burn marks. I made these dead eyes recently. Takes a fraction of a second to solder each leg. All in the prep. Dave R
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Wishing you a fast and full healthy recovery Rowan. Hope you have time to do the research for the next steps of your build. Dave R
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HI Paul, The Compass/draw/cupboard thingy, did not come with the Corel Kit, neither did a lot of items. Have not constructed it yet. On the list of the "to do", with many other items. Come to think of it, probably why this build is taking so long, I am scratch making so many items that come with other kits. Aiming to get the masts up, and before rope work, finish the deck fittings off. Dave R
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Shipyard Update More work has progressed on the 3 x Mast Tops. The yard has crafted the Futtock dead eyes. A few Pictures of how these were made from copper wire, welded, filed and hole drilled in the end, then blackened. Close up of the Fore Mast Top with: - Bolsters added - eye bolt for the topsail yard tye fall - Rail on the back of the mast top(my interpretation) All dead eyes secured to the Mast Tops: Also added the eye bolt on the Main Mast Top(not sure if I needed it, better to add now, near impossible later on) Although I have Marquardt's Endeavour AoTS, I am keen to get another detailed resource for the rigging, being their is so much to it all. I have ordered a copy of Lees "'Masting & Rigging of English ships of War 1625 - 1860" Dave R
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Michael, For each fake timber band, I was very careful to not use excess glue(CA). It soaks into the card and forms a solid. It is easy using a scalpel blade to slice of unwanted bits. I coated the bands with CA glue to seal each band. Dave R
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Hi Pat, I've lost the hours I've spent "looking ahead" to see what else should be added onto an item, so it is there when the time comes. I'll miss something I am sure. Dave R
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What is going on ? So have been working through on a few lashings for the stays to the masts. I came across a dilemma with Main topmast preventer stay and the Mizzen top mast stay. The clips(below) from the Endeavour AOTS show different methods of attaching the above stays. Page 101 in the Standing Rigging section and Pages 117 & 188 are from the Running Rigging section. Also had a look at some of the great Endeavour builds on the site to see what others have done. I decided to go 50/50, hope I got it somewhere near correct. Fore Mast methods: 5mm pulley for the Main topmast preventer stay 5mm Heart for the Main Stay Main Mast methods: 2 Thimbles and a Heart block for the Mizzen stays Mizzen strops: Cleats on Mizzen and Fore Masts: Small steps. Dave R
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Hi Bob, Are you planning to add some blocking between the frames to the hull(wales line) ? Dave R
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Shipyard Update: Middle Chock added to each of the 3 MastTops. Trial fit at the top of the ForeMast. Picture is just after adding the Jeer block cleats - both sides. I believe the cleats are only on the Main and Fore Masts(is this correct ? I am not sure?). I placed mine a bit higher to make sure plenty of room below for the shrouds to wrap around. Hoops being added to the Masts. I retro fitted a home made wooden "lathe" I built some time ago to hold spars(masts) so I have both hands free to work on them. Works well for wrapping card and the woolding. Main and Fore Masts standing tall. Slowly getting their, woolding and hoops on. So much more to go, I keep finding things to make and add, it seems to never end. Dave R
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Good to see Bob, Hope the kit comes with plenty of goodies for your build. Will be watching out for the updates, I like seeing what others do with the Endeavour builds. Dave R
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Bit more work in the Shipyard Mast Tops Mizzen Top taking shape. fiddly work this one was. inner beams/rails roughed in, nearly done. 3 Mast Tops ready for finishing off. Dave R
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Fantastic, fantastic detail Greg, Don't know how you do it. Is their a mouse somewhere ? "cat & mouse" Dave R
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- dreadnought
- zvezda
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Thanks Don, Pat, Greg, Dashi & Michael for checking in and you kind comments. I follow all your build logs gentlemen, and many more. Outstanding work by all, with many details I am sure thrashed out over the cups of coffee, and hours of thought. Greg, I am inclined. I was only thinking of that same topic today, great minds think alike ??. I saw somewhere(may of been your log ?) using drafting Leads to simulate the cheek pins on the masts. And I just happen to have plenty of 0.5mm HB from my drafting days(previous life/job) which should do the trick. Michael, Just trying my best to get some detail into items. It is sometimes challenging to build a 3D picture in the head space, of what an item will finally end up as. Especially when details are spread over many pages and sketches. Like these "tops", I will be adding, as others I am sure have, all the "rigging" blocks etc. on before final " hoisting of the masts". So many more pictures to come fellas. "a picture tells a thousand words" PS Fore top done, with Mizzen not far away. I seemed to go quicker on each one. Dave R
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Back on Deck in the Shipyard, I decided to get into the Mast Tops(platforms), have a break from the masts. Spent what seems like hours on the Main Mast Top. Main Mast Top Inner tapered beams installed: All notched over the ring beams. No two(2) beams are the same, 20 all up. Working around the edges with infill timbers: I lined up the inner edges and left each infill piece overhang around the edges. Again all 20 different. Basic main top timber work done: Trimmed them off all the way around when all done. I plan to leave the upper side as is > clear timber finish, black underneath. Plenty of holes and attachments to go on later. Only another 2 more to go. Dave R
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Steve/Michael, I'm to far down the track on the mast/hoop thingy. Mine will have the metal and wooden/rope woolding hoops. Dave R
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Hi Pat, All those little things to finalize, chew up the hours I am sure. You don't really want to use those Swivel Guns do you. ? Send then up to Brisy, save me the trouble of making some. !! Dave R
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- Endeavour
- Artesania Latina
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Well done and functional Dashi.
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Looks very good actually. I haven't built any of the tenders yet. The Corel Kit I have, only has 1 tender and I won't be using it. Will be a scratch build, and like you, not looking forward to them, very fiddly. Cheers Dave R
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Hi Michael, You are ahead of me a wee bit lad. I have only just lathed up the rough shape of the Fore and Main topmasts yesterday. The round at the bottom I came up with 5.2mm dia. I just had a look at the caps in the Corel kit, bit rough and may use them. Bit of sanding and filling ? Steve is right. The hole in the bigger Corel caps(for lower masts) looks like ~ 5.0mm dia. maybe a wee bit bigger. May need to open up just a tad. That would be right for the hound of the Fore and Main topmasts to go up through. I scaled the AoTS page 88 up by 1.07 to get the lengths right to the Woolich lengths. The dia over the hex is a wee bit over 5mm, so all matches up for me. Today's job in the shipyard: Adding hoops to the lower masts. Not going well, not good at winding the card exactly level around the mast/cheeks. Dave R
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Hi Michael, Found the "Mini Precision Multi Function Milling Machine x-y axis Coordinate Table" on EBay. Ordered one, AU$67 from Hong Kong. Thanks for info. Dave R
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Back in the Shipyard - Masts and Tops Well the yard has been slowly progressing the many items for the above. Mast Tops: So for each of the mast tops I added some "pins" to the under beams to locate the platform accurately for re-assembly. beams and platform(underside) apart you get the idea by now ! Aligned to press together. The underside of the main and fore platforms Since most of these items are finally painted black(seems most do), not too worried about minor defects or different timbers. Although it would be nice to have a contrast their somewhere like the AMM Replica Mizz platform. Started on the Mizzen Mast: Rough at the moment, >> more work to details. Cheeks added to the Fore Mast: Also have Main mast to same stage, shape the cheeks and add the bands. Dave R
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