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JSGerson

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Everything posted by JSGerson

  1. JSGerson
    The stem that came with the kit was never meant to be seen without a covering of copper plate and paint so Model Shipways wasn't concerned about the individual pieces that it was comprised of. As such, the silhouette of the stem reflects closely what the ship looks like today so I am not surprised it doesn't match the old plans. You are trying to envision the ship as she was commissioned which nobody really knows what that looked like, other than some historically based educated guesses. Your stem plan looks plausible, but probably not historically accurate. I don't have any drawings of the stem earlier than 1927. Plan 14705 shows what the stem looked like prior to the 1927-31 restoration. So, if you were to try to me be more historically accurate, I would try to make the stem look more like what the 1927 plans show. Here are the plan numbers I have. If you can't find all of them at the museum, let me know. Here is the earliest know photograph of the ship showing her stem during her restoration in Portsmouth, Maine 1858. 1927 - No.: 14705 1927 - No.: 25006 1927 - No.: 25026 1929 - No.: 24779 1972 - No.: 25007 Hope this helps, Jon
  2. JSGerson
    I would take the drawing you made in your last post, copy it and copy again in mirror image (port and starboard). Make a template by cutting the whole image as a whole out of the paper and with rubber cement, glue it to the stem on the model. With a sharp blade or using pin points, imprint the "puzzle pieces" into the wood. Then you can peel off the templates and finish embossing the lines into the wood. Jon
  3. JSGerson
    If the ship didn't already have a name, I would have suggested you name her Tenacity, because that's what it took to get the model to this stage! Jon
  4. JSGerson
    Deck planks were about: · 20’ (6.4m) long · 8” and 10” (20 cm and 25 cm) wide At 1:76.8 scale: · 3¼” (8.25 cm) long · 7/64” and 1/8” (2.5 mm and 3 mm) wide Jon
  5. JSGerson
    Planks are typically no more than 12" (30 cm) wide at midships and with an average length of 40’ (12 m). That means at scale of 1:76.8: · Max width: 5/32” (4 mm) (This what is provided in the kit) · Average length: 6” (15 cm) When approaching the bow or stern, the planks will narrow. Do not narrow more than ½ of the original plank width. Jon
  6. JSGerson
    Most of the US Navy plans that I have can be found at the USS Constitution Museum which are free to the public to download. I have collected a few more obscure plans from various other sources of the years. Should you need photos, I have accumulated thousands of images of the ship from the present day all the way back to 1857. Earlier than that you will have to rely on contemporary paintings for images. Jon
  7. JSGerson
    For anything that requires sharp, precise edges, I use Boxwood. Basswood is too soft and frays at the edges. BTW, here are some US Navy drawings for the columns.
  8. JSGerson
    There is an excellent model of the 1797 configuration of the Frigate Constitution by Mark Antczak that were posted on Usetosail's log starting at post #556. Unfortunately, the original site these images were posted on, American Marine Models no longer exist there. I do have another set of 19 B&W images of a 1797 configuration model from the US Navy should you be interested. Hopefully these model will help you construct your model. Enjoy the journey Jon
  9. JSGerson
    I just found your build log today. It looks like you are on an exciting, if not challenging endeavor. I have some additional US Navy plans of the stem that may (or not) help.
  10. JSGerson
    Glad to have been of help. Jon
  11. JSGerson
    Well worth the effort! BTW, what kind of wood did you use for the molding? It took the the sharp bends very nicely. Jon
  12. JSGerson
    Are you sure the log was on MSW? Could it have been on Ships of Scale or Model Ship Builder? Jon
  13. JSGerson
    I went back and looked at the other model brands and think I found what you were looking for, complete with the farewell. I had him mislabeled as a non-MS model builder. Captain Steve Jon
  14. JSGerson
    Just remember, it's a model, not a replica. It can be as detailed or simple as you want it. It is, after all, YOUR model. Jon
  15. JSGerson
    To help gain some space for the eagle, maybe thin the molding a bit. If you look at the plans, the molding on the plans are a bit narrower than your fabricated moldings. Sanding their inner surfaces will also eliminate any kinks left over from the pins used in forming the curves. I assume you didn't use the kit's laser cut moldings because they didn't suit your purposes or aesthetics? Jon
  16. JSGerson
    Ohh, I bet you thought you had me on this one. I know of 38 builds which have not been completed (at least not posted online). I defined a build as dormant if I have not seen any postings for two or more years. Of the 38, 17 are not Model Shipways full hull: Billing Boats - 1 Bluejacket - 3 Constructo - 1 Mamoli - 4 Mantua - 1 Scientific - 2 Scratch - 1 MS Cross Section - 2 Mamoli Cross Section - 2 Scratch Cross Section - 1 That leaves 24 incomplete builds. Based on your query of a completed hull with partial masts and no rigging, I have these four candidates: Jeff Toma Livingstoneman Maturin52 Mundie If none of these four are not the build you remembered, maybe he wasn't building a Model Shipways model. I still might have him listed as an active builder (25) who has posted in the last year or so but just not recently. These I haven't checked. Then of course there are the completed builds (28). Let me know if I should look some more. Jon
  17. JSGerson
    Looks beautiful!!! Jon
  18. JSGerson
    Yes, I agree, my method of making the pseudo bolts was tedious, but I feel in some ways easier than other methods I've seen including the Mr. Hunt's in his practicum. Making and applying the "bolts" was just a matter of punching out tiny "rivets heads" out of thin copper plate. The tedious part was applying a couple of thousands of them to the model. My method was to make a bunch "rivets" then apply them with Wipe-on Poly. That gave to time to position them where they needed to go. You get into a rhythm and it gets done. The illusion method works too, but you can't make mistakes, because once the holes are dilled, you hide them, but you can't remove them. Either method takes time. Jon
  19. JSGerson
    It's a nice optical illusion. I used the same method for the bolts on those big wooden cleats on the spar deck.
  20. JSGerson
    Thank you very much for showing us mortals how it's done. I was on my way figuring out this process by trial and error until I ran into my drilling problem. (We will see if I fixed that.) Hopefully you have reduced my chances of committing an over abundance of errors. Again, many thanks Jon
  21. JSGerson
    I don't have the 3-D printer plans, but I do have the original source US Navy plans. There is a lot of detail that has to be whittled down to the resolution of the printer. That's a lot of work in and of itself. Jon
  22. JSGerson
    Unegawahya - (I posted this on my log, but I'll repeat here) The finial is phenomenal, especially the spoke hub. It looks like the assembly was made from 3 or 4 pieces. What is the basic diameter? When I get to it, I would like to reproduce it, so any details you can provide would be helpful. In total admiration, Jon
  23. JSGerson
    Unegawahya - The finial is phenomenal, especially the spoke hub. It looks like the assembly was made from 3 or 4 pieces. What is the basic diameter? When I get to it, I would like to reproduce it, so any details you can provide would be helpful. In total admiration, Jon
  24. JSGerson
    Do you know sign language? I might be going deaf!!!😝
  25. JSGerson
    Oh well, it was wishful thinking. Shipyard shut down today due to noise pollution. I am having my 20yr old roof replaced, and there are eight guys with hammers banging away on my roof. They should be finished by the end of the day. Jon

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