JSGerson

The easy part is gluing them into place. Note two of the kevels are attached to aft rail post where the anchor is tied. The anchor had to be re-tied after the kevel was attached.

Using a very fine chisel, the wood material between the lower horizontal cuts was carved to look like the side of a wheel when it will glued in place. Care must be taken here because even a slight slip may cause the chisel to slice through the tiny piece of wood between the cuts.

Using a very fine chisel, the wood material between the lower horizontal cuts was carved to look like the side of a wheel when it will glued in place. Care must be taken here because even a slight slip may cause the chisel to slice through the tiny piece of wood between the cuts.

Here is the model at this stage
 

After the anchor rope passes through the deck rings it is fed into the main hatch. The Practicum instructed the builder to drill a hole through the grating with a 1/16” drill. The Mamoli plans show a square opening. Hahn’s plans are silent and his model is constructed in such a way that there are no gratings. The MS plan is ambiguous. The rope resolved the quandary. As soon as the rope is cut, it begins to unravel. Trying to keep it under 1/16” was impossible so I increased the hatch opening by cutting and making four grating opens into one. Now the rope had plenty of room to move during dropping and weighing anchor.
 

The Practicum does not address securing the anchor blade to the model although both the Mamoli and the MS plan show it. Mr. Hunt’s model does not appear to have this tie off. Both plans show an eyebolt in the deck from which a rope is looped around the anchor and tied off on the railing post. My model didn’t have the deck constructed where the eyebolt needed to be. Therefore a plank had to be added for the eyebolt complete with treenails.

The blocks were first glued into position on the outer hull. Only one hole had to be drilled through the hull to the inside wall where the line passes through. The other hole in the block is just for show. For the inside sheave block, glue was applied to the block, a pin was place in one of the sheave block holes and then the pin with the block was stuck into the hole in the bulwarks. The sheave block was then slid off the pin and orientated on the bulwark and the pin removed. A final coat of Poly Wipe on the block and it’s done. It sounds way more complicated than it really was.

Scott, I too was new to building POB models and the Rattlesnake was/is my first build (four years an still counting). In my case I am using the Mamoli kit following Bob Hunt's Practicum, and using a wood supplement package (all the gory details on my log).
 
Don't be intimidated. If you break it down into small steps, progress will be made. I watch a multitude of logs and gleam every last detail to help with my build. Although I was intimidated by the quality of other builder's skills, I was encouraged to start my own log so others could learn from my mistakes and triumphs. Because of the log, it kind of gives you the incentive to keep going because others are watching you. That, and all the tips and suggestions you get from your followers.
 
I hope to see your log soon, yes?

The blocks were first glued into position on the outer hull. Only one hole had to be drilled through the hull to the inside wall where the line passes through. The other hole in the block is just for show. For the inside sheave block, glue was applied to the block, a pin was place in one of the sheave block holes and then the pin with the block was stuck into the hole in the bulwarks. The sheave block was then slid off the pin and orientated on the bulwark and the pin removed. A final coat of Poly Wipe on the block and it’s done. It sounds way more complicated than it really was.

Scott, I too was new to building POB models and the Rattlesnake was/is my first build (four years an still counting). In my case I am using the Mamoli kit following Bob Hunt's Practicum, and using a wood supplement package (all the gory details on my log).
 
Don't be intimidated. If you break it down into small steps, progress will be made. I watch a multitude of logs and gleam every last detail to help with my build. Although I was intimidated by the quality of other builder's skills, I was encouraged to start my own log so others could learn from my mistakes and triumphs. Because of the log, it kind of gives you the incentive to keep going because others are watching you. That, and all the tips and suggestions you get from your followers.
 
I hope to see your log soon, yes?

Here is the model at this stage
 

Here is the model at this stage
 

Looking at the anchor rope again I realized I made a couple of errors:
I  looped the rope incorrectly I discovered that I had installed the bitt backwards Per the Practicum, the anchor rope is simply looped over the outside of the bitt once. Per the Mamoli plan (the picture below), the rope starts under the inside of the bitt, comes up goes around the post and under the outside of the bitt. The MS plan is the same as the Mamoli except at the end it goes over the outside of the bitt. I chose Mamoli's method. It just seemed more secure. Is it right? I have no idea.

The bitt was removed and reinstalled correctly. It wasn't until the rope rigging was questioned did I notice the incorrect installation.
Here is what it presently looks like. Mind you, the anchor nor the anchor ropes are rigged in their final secured positions.

Looking at the anchor rope again I realized I made a couple of errors:
I  looped the rope incorrectly I discovered that I had installed the bitt backwards Per the Practicum, the anchor rope is simply looped over the outside of the bitt once. Per the Mamoli plan (the picture below), the rope starts under the inside of the bitt, comes up goes around the post and under the outside of the bitt. The MS plan is the same as the Mamoli except at the end it goes over the outside of the bitt. I chose Mamoli's method. It just seemed more secure. Is it right? I have no idea.

The bitt was removed and reinstalled correctly. It wasn't until the rope rigging was questioned did I notice the incorrect installation.
Here is what it presently looks like. Mind you, the anchor nor the anchor ropes are rigged in their final secured positions.

Forecastle Edge Piece
Like the quarterdeck, I interpreted Harold Hahn’s plans to indicate there was an edge piece going from one deck clamp to the other for the forecastle. The Practicum did not address this at all. I have noted in other models, the maker did install it on theirs, so I did on mine. I was made in the same fashion as the quarterdeck

Display Box
I built the display box from scratch. A slab of wood, some trim pieces, some Plexiglas properly sized and cut at Home depot and voilà, a display box!

After the drying, the excess treenails were cut off, sanded, and finally coat of Wipe-on Poly applied.

The transom timbers became part of the frame for the window openings. Again, the location of the transom windows is based on the Hahn plans. The practicum then instructs you install the transom to the stern before the start of the window construction. Contrary to this, I created window openings while the transom was off the model. I felt I could make cleaner cuts and manipulate the transom easier. In most models of the Rattlesnake there are four windows and a center panel. Mr. Hunt elected not to create the center panel for this model.

The Anchors
The Practicum states that the anchors that came with the Mamoli kit had over sized walnut stock pieces although the anchors themselves weren't too bad. Therefore the Practicum instructed the builder to use 2 pieces of 5/32” x ¼” x 1 13/16” boxwood for the two anchors. Why boxwood; probably because neither the wood package from HobbyMills nor the kit has this stock size in walnut.
 
I chose not to follow the Practicum for the anchors except for the dimensions of the wooden stock. It didn't mimic the way actual anchors were put together
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Having followed Blue Ensign’s wonderful discussion on anchors for his build of the 1/64 scale HMS Pegasus, I chose to followed in his footsteps more or less. He did use walnut and his construction of the anchors was more realistic than the Practicum.
 
First step was to get some appropriate sized walnut. I had two obvious choices, buy mail-order or buy local. Since I needed it now I went looking on the web for a local wood supplier other than construction lumber. Since there was no exotic woods store in my town, who would carry walnut wood? A furniture manufacture… none local; a cabinet maker…nope; a furniture restorer…BINGO! I was able to get a nice piece of miscellaneous walnut from this “guy” who restored stuff for an interior decorator store. He even threw in a slab of teak and one of cherry all for a small nominal fee. The walnut had some grooves for a tongue and groove piece of something and was finished on one edge. But a few trips through the Byrnes saw and I had what I needed with plenty to spare.

The quoin
The quoin is a wedge with a handle used to raise and lower the cannon for aiming. The twenty 3/16” quoins are made from 1/16” x 1/16” stock and trimmed to shape. The Practicum instructs the builder to make the handle from wire and insert it into a drilled hole in the wedge. From pictures of actual quoins I’ve seen, the handles appear to be made from wood. So instead of the wire, I used bamboo drawn through the drawn plate, just like I made the treenails. The picture below shows the progression.

I'll throw in my 2 cents about tree nailing:
 
Point one, ships used treenails.
 
Point two, tree nails were not used as a fashion statement.
 
Therefore on my Rattlesnake, I did nothing to enhance the contrast to make them stand out. I like to think of the model like an onion. As you peel back on layer there is another. So the closer you look,  the more detail you see. The effect I believe, should subliminal. Why does one model look better than another. Many times you can't put your finger on it, but I think it boils downs to craftsmanship, presentation, and the little details. Treenails are the little details that you may not a first realize are there but enhance the overall effect.
 
That said, I'm really a novice at this. The Rattlesnake is my first POB sailing ship so take this with a grain of salt.

I'll throw in my 2 cents about tree nailing:
 
Point one, ships used treenails.
 
Point two, tree nails were not used as a fashion statement.
 
Therefore on my Rattlesnake, I did nothing to enhance the contrast to make them stand out. I like to think of the model like an onion. As you peel back on layer there is another. So the closer you look,  the more detail you see. The effect I believe, should subliminal. Why does one model look better than another. Many times you can't put your finger on it, but I think it boils downs to craftsmanship, presentation, and the little details. Treenails are the little details that you may not a first realize are there but enhance the overall effect.
 
That said, I'm really a novice at this. The Rattlesnake is my first POB sailing ship so take this with a grain of salt.

Based on the typical dimensions of a home toilet and the images provided by Pasi, I made the sides height 3/16” and the seat opening 1/8”. I was a little concerned that I might have trouble with the bumkins fitting right next to the seats, but I think I’m OK.

Yeah, I got lucky. I only found out about the Guild earlier this year and then it turns out they had a yearly conference and then to find that it was being held in my neck of the woods and I had the time (newly retired), the opportunity, and the money to attend...I hit the jackpot.

Here is what the bow looks like at this stage.